5,940 articles · 181 videos found · page 111 of 205
Quill & Pad
The Roger W. Smith Series 4 is a real crown jewel, both out of respect and a sense that its inherent quality is obscured by less extraordinary but more bombastic rivals. It’s austere, deliberately reserved, and quietly confident amid a world of indie watches buffed and beveled brightly enough to blind an eye.
SJX Watches
Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously. Initial thoughts Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless. As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve. Sapphire dial The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability. Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return. All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via ...
Fratello
Yema and I go back, way back. Well, back to 2021, actually. One of the first articles I wrote for Fratello was on a Yema watch…and not just any Yema watch. The Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Limited Edition I wrote about marked the start of Yema’s military career as an official partner of the French […] Visit Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu to read the full article.
Fratello
Let me give you a little look behind the scenes at Fratello. Usually, we have watches in the office for a relatively short time. That can be from a few days to a couple of weeks. But rarely do we have the chance to try out a watch for a longer period. I had that […] Visit Hands-On With The Brilliant Nodus Contrail GMT Terra to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for your weekly dose of early-morning caffeine! Pour yourself a hot cup of coffee, grab a seat, and let’s get going. This week, Jorg and Mike return to the battlefield with another interesting duo of contenders. We read your comments, dear Fratelli! Today’s matchup is a much-requested battle that […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570 to read the full article.
Fratello
Hi there, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become […] Visit Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...
Worn & Wound
One of the cool things about the Omega Speedmaster is that it can truly be just about any watch it needs to be. It’s the Moonwatch, of course, but it’s also a racing chronograph, a dressy chronograph, a chronograph inspired by WWII era military watches, and it can even be a plastic toy. That, I think, is what makes it “iconic,” an overused word if there ever was one in our trade, but one that nonetheless applies perfectly to the Speedmaster. It’s also, from time to time, a pilot’s watch, and Omega’s newest release, part of a late-in-the-year drip of new product that has the brand positioned as one of the big winners of 2024, is a Speedmaster that is purpose built for the skies in a way we rarely see the Speedy outside of Omega’s quartz offerings. The new Speedmaster Pilot, as it is known, has been the subject of speculation for much of this year. Leaked images of the watch on the wrist of US military pilots generated a great deal of discussion on the forums and Instagram, and our friends at Fratello provided a great overview of everything that was known about the Speedmaster “Flight Qualified” back in September. That watch (the one seen in the leaked images) appears to be made for military personnel only. The one seen here can be thought of as the civilian version. It differs somewhat in aesthetic details, but in terms of specs and features it appears to be identical, and offers its own unique Speedy experience. This is a two register Speedmaster wi...
Monochrome
In September this year, Grand Seiko unveiled a rather striking new model, the Icefall SBGH347. Not only did this watch come with a new dial pattern and a stunning colour, but it also celebrated an important milestone in the brand’s history, the launch in 1998 of the purely mechanical 9S series. This initial Icefall watch […]
Worn & Wound
Reviving defunct watch brands is more common than it once was. Previously, the idea caused excitement, though not without trepidation. Would this reincarnated brand bring back interesting pieces from its archives, be a contemporary reinterpretation of the brand’s spirit, or just be a hollow attempt to cash in on some old name? It was always a waiting game to see which, and we saw all three. But in the years since the strategy for revivals has been refined. Respect for historical designs and proportions is a given, but with so many brands having made similarly styled watches in the past, it’s less provocative to have a vintage-looking watch with a vintage name. What makes a newly revived brand stand out now is its execution and story, if there is one to share. This brings me to this article’s subject, the return of Elgé. Elgé is not a brand I was aware of before being told of their relaunch, and I imagine that is likely the case for most enthusiasts, at least in the US. This immediately presents both a challenge and an opportunity. On one hand, no preconceived notions would lead to expectations. On the other, there is no existing reverence for the brand. Ultimately, they will have to rely on the quality of their designs and the watches themselves, which, in fairness, should always matter more than history, at least in my eyes. So, who is Elgé? Well, information on them is sparse, and based on a quick search, every description appears to be nearly identical, all rif...
Worn & Wound
If you don’t get what you’re looking at, don’t worry. You’re not alone - in fact, that’s sort of the point. A quick glance at the new L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is more likely to incite questions than offer answers, but the latest masterpiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, timed to release last week in time for founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, presents us with a watch unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand in recent years. The general architecture of the watch will be familiar to those conversant in Parmigiani’s chosen language - the straight squared-off lugs and pastel pallet are reminiscent of the Toric watches released earlier this year - but it won’t take long to realize that there’s something fairly significant missing from the celebratory watch: a dial. The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is also the latest entry in a series of Minute Repeater wristwatches to deliberately de-emphasize the visible display of time we’re all so used to. Recent examples of this trick have come from H. Moser & Cie., whose Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black opted for a clean Vantablack dial with nothing but a visible tourbillon; and Biver, whose 2023 OnlyWatch entry replaced its visible dial with a beautiful scene rendered in stone marquetry. But just because we’ve seen versions of this before, doesn’t mean the impact is any lessened here. In fact, this implementation is among the best I’ve encountered, and more than holds its own, while a...
The year is winding down, but only after a few more new releases. On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we take a look at the Ressence Type 9, the smallest Ressence yet. Then we dive into Jacques Bianchi, square up with the Circula Facet, head to the mountains with Élge, and turn green with Fratello and Czapek-lastly, we nerd out with Vianney Halter and Louis Erard, who are bringing steampunk back. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and its new Brooklyn showroom. Inside, find watches, accessories, EDC, and more from the Windup Watch Shop. The showroom is located at Worn & Wound HQ, a newly built-out shopping space that immerses you in watches from brands you won’t find in your normal AD. If you’re in the area and are interested in stopping by, head to Windupwatchshop.com to book an appointment. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 95 – A Colossal Collab, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Worn & Wound
As I write this piece, I find it fitting that Worn & Wound was co-founded by Zach Weiss, who, as many of you may know, happens to be an Industrial Designer too. There are dozens of us! DOZENS! When it comes to Industrial Design and the watches we love, it’s hard to separate the two, especially in the modern day. For this argument, let’s assume “modern day” refers to everything after 1972, when Gerald Genta changed the watch landscape forever with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Not only did this release change the landscape for folks within the watch industry, but it caught the eye of Industrial Designers who were green in their careers at the time, which later created a snowball effect of designing outside the box when it comes to watches. No longer were we restricted to the round case and the simple forms of previous years. Yes, there were unique watches before this period, but with the progression of design aesthetics and newer advanced manufacturing methods, this was the jumping-off point for wild designs and new methods of manufacture. Marc Newson, the world-renowned industrial designer, is one of those who likely caught the curiosity bug of watches at the right time (pun fully intended). This is purely speculation on my part, but there is some evidence for my madness here, so bear with me. He would have been 9 years old when the Royal Oak was introduced, and years later, when adolescent youth and creativity were at a high for him during his university years, I...
Fratello
This week on Fratello Talks, we’re talking all things Breitling with author, collector, and brand historian Fred Mandelbaum. Nacho and RJ join Herr Mandelbaum in a conversation that starts in the early 20th century with some of Breitling’s earliest wrist-worn chronographs and spans the brand’s development to the present day. We touch upon the evolution […] Visit Fratello Talks: 140 Years Of Breitling With Fred Mandelbaum to read the full article.
SJX Watches
IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver. The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial. Initial thoughts As a classic colour for such a watch, the blue dial was long expected. It’s arguably the most appealing Ingenieur, though the titanium model has an edge (at a much, much higher price). While it is hard to find fault in the execution of the Ingenieur, it was released somewhat late, as the fad for integrated bracelets already lost steam last year. This new addition is arriving even later, though the upside is it will be more easily available than before. The blue dial model is priced the same as the earlier versions, making it a little expensive considering the entry-level movement inside. Most sports watches with integrated bracelets in the same price segment rely on more sophisticated calibres. Textured blue The new version has specs identical to its siblings in the collection. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Featuring brushed surfaces with polished bevels, the case has the 1970s Ingenieur elements of a circular bezel ...
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss Japanese watches. That’s a wide subject, so we attack it in different ways. Stick around to find out how we tackle one of our favorite watch genres. For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 17 minutes. This podcast player is blocked […] Visit Fratello On Air: Japanese Watches - Our Favorites And The Recognizable Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
My favorite thing about the watch world is the people. Far and away, my experience of watch enthusiasm has been - if you avoid anonymous comments sections - one of kindness, warmth, and, above all, generosity. This is a world in which people routinely hand you the watches off their wrists, and are always willing to offer up information, experience, and advice. So in that context, it was shocking, but not surprising, when our illustrious CEO, Blake Malin, offered me his own Lorier Hydra Zulu for an extended trial period. The Lorier Hydra Zulu, which was introduced around Windup NYC last year, has been on my radar since its release. To be frank, the only reason I don’t own this watch yet is that it’s been pretty hard to find one. With the infrequent drops selling out quickly and a real dearth of availability on the second-hand market, my only choice has been to wait for Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega to restock. Thankfully, Blake’s intervention means I’ve had an excellent chance to experience the watch and to see if the Hydra Zulu has what it takes to fill in as my new ‘fallback watch.’ I’ve always resisted the term ‘beater watch.’ While I understand the sentiment behind the phrase, I’ve never liked the connotation. After all, one person’s beater can easily be another’s grail (again, a phrase I’m not a fan of), and, while most use the term entirely innocuously, ‘beater watch’ has always struck me as somewhat… dismissive, if not downright condes...
Time+Tide
"Congrats to all the watch nerds. You beat me."The post Dave Portnoy admits defeat, announces fire sale for Brick Watch Company, blaming “watch geeks” for its demise appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, we are celebrating our 100th-episode milestone with a special Q&A;. We asked you to send us your questions, and you delivered. We’ve gathered, sorted, and selected said questions over the past few weeks, and in today’s episode, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas come together to answer them. We cover […] Visit Fratello Talks: The 100th-Episode Q&A; Special to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! We’re a little later this week than usual because we decided to record this episode in person in London. We discuss several topics but end with a brief holiday gift guide. Our watch content starts after approximately 20 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: An In-Person Recording And Holiday Gift Guide to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Last week, Jacques Bianchi released what is probably their most boring watch in recent memory, and the results speak for themselves. Compared to many of the brand’s recent releases, the new Jacques Bianchi JB300 is inarguably their most conventional, forfeiting many of the details that helped set the many iterations of the JB200 apart. But in that simplicity there’s magic, and this latest entry in the Jacques Bianchi catalog is a strong new addition to the military-inspired dive watch category, offering collectors a rock-solid option at a fantastic value. Put simply, the JB300 is a classic military diver in the truest sense, while still managing to hold onto a little bit of the dramatic flair we’ve come to expect from a brand that typically decorates their dials with divers and cephalopods. The JB300 draws the bulk of its inspiration from the original JB300, an early ‘90s dive watch issued by the French Army to combat divers. While not an exact 1-to-1 reproduction of that watch, which seems to have been produced in extremely limited quantities (less than 1000 by most counts), the new JB300 is a very close facsimile. Jacques Bianchi has done a good job updating the original JB300 for a modern audience though, toying with the specifics of both dial and case to bring them more comfortably into the 21st century. Part of this was likely dictated by necessity. A cursory search will find that most vintage examples of the JB300 feature the symbol for l’Armée de Terre (t...
SJX Watches
A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...
Fratello
Today, we’ll go hands-on with the new Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. This is a modern-looking take on the brand’s entry into the sports-dress category. As we’ll see, the lack of an integrated bracelet and textured dial helps provide this watch with an identity of its own. The current Piaget Polo lineup features many models, including […] Visit Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic to read the full article.
Fratello
Here at Fratello, we’ve closely followed Serica’s progress since its founding in 2019. We know the Parisian brand for its vintage-inspired yet fresh-looking and attractive watches. Both founders - Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette - pay great attention to (design) details. When they told us they were working on a dressier piece, it piqued our […] Visit Hands-On: The All-New Serica 1174 Parade With A Black Or Brass Sunburst Guilloché Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s finally here! The Seamaster Diver 300M watch spotted on the wrist of Bond actor Daniel Craig during the Olympic Games in Paris now makes its official debut. Showing the Moonwatch with a white dial on Craig’s wrist in 2023 worked miracles for its “preview” exposure, and that strategy worked again this year with the […] Visit Meet The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Daniel Craig” And Another One! to read the full article.
Fratello
Hello, and welcome, folks, to Fratello Talks. Germany’s most prestigious watch brand has turned 30 (again) this year! So today, in honor of three decades of watchmaking from its seat in Glashütte, we’re talking all about A. Lange & Söhne. Now, some of you may be thinking: “Wait, Lange has only been around since the […] Visit Fratello Talks: A. Lange & Söhne to read the full article.
Fratello
At the end of 2023, Speedmaster enthusiast @watchstick_81 organized a GTG for approximately 20 enthusiasts (you can find the photo report here). At this year’s edition, no fewer than 51 Speedmaster collectors showed up, many with their collections in tow. It was the first year that we at Fratello didn’t host a Speedy Tuesday event […] Visit Photo Report: The 2024 Dutch Speedmaster GTG to read the full article.
Monochrome
Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility. At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]
Fratello
Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Could this be the next new Rolex? In today’s episode, we put ourselves in the shoes of the brand’s product developers and exchanged some pitches about what kind of watch we’d love to see Rolex release next. We fully acknowledge it’s practically impossible to guess The Crown’s next move. Still, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Could This Be The Next New Rolex? to read the full article.
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