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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

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Zenith Introduces a Conceptual Take on the Defy Extreme with a New Reference Sporting a Highly Reflective Mirror Finish Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces Dec 11, 2023

Zenith Introduces a Conceptual Take on the Defy Extreme with a New Reference Sporting a Highly Reflective Mirror Finish

An idea that we return to frequently around here is the ability of Zenith, moreso than just about any other Swiss brand with a lengthy, complex history, to straddle the line between heritage and pushing forward with daring, contemporary designs. Think of almost any other brand with roots dating to the late 19th or early 20th century that is still making watches, and chances are they focus largely on paying respect to the past, or they have moved on and iterated in some way. Zenith, on parallel tracks, does both, and I think one of the reasons they’re able to do that so successfully is that pushing the envelope aesthetically is part of their heritage. The Defy line is the most obvious example of this, and with this new Defy Extreme reference, Zenith continues to define what it means to be a Defy in the first place with a bold new take on their high spec chronograph that is as much sculpture as it is horology.  The Defy Extreme Mirror, as the of the watch would imply, is all mirrored surfaces, creating a unique and highly reflective effect that is actually almost the antithesis of what we’ve previously seen from the Extreme line. This, after all, is Zenith’s most hardcore sports watch, and is frequently seen in rugged, blacked out cases made from tech forward materials. The Defy Extreme Mirror, however, is stainless steel, and has been given a mirror polish on every surface that is meant to evoke the appearance of chrome. It’s objectively decorative, but the highly ...

Hands-on - The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Dec 11, 2023

Hands-on - The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]

Interview - Gautier Massonneau, CEO and Founder of Trilobe, on the Present and Future of the Indie Watchmaker Monochrome
Trilobe Dec 8, 2023

Interview - Gautier Massonneau, CEO and Founder of Trilobe, on the Present and Future of the Indie Watchmaker

A savvy mix of boldness and French poetry, Trilobe timepieces eschew traditional codes and provide their own offbeat take on mechanical watchmaking. Dubai Watch Week provided the perfect opportunity to sit down with its CEO/founder and creative director, Gautier Massonneau, to discuss how this young independent watchmaking brand was born, his plans for the future […]

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

Introducing - Capturing the Cosmos with the Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite Monochrome
Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite Nov 29, 2023

Introducing - Capturing the Cosmos with the Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite

Dutch 3D-print watchmaking pioneer Michiel Holthinrichs has moved his watchmaking vision in a new direction with the Deconstructed, which we showed you earlier in the year. This mighty impressive creation had a distinct SciFi exoskeleton vibe, and Holthinrichs Watches now expands the line with two more space-themed watches. Capturing the cosmos with each of the […]

Business News: Sincere Opens SHH Concept Store in Kuala Lumpur SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Nov 29, 2023

Business News: Sincere Opens SHH Concept Store in Kuala Lumpur

Singapore watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches has opened its newest Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in Pavilion Mall located in Kuala Lumpur prime shopping district. As the biggest of the retailer’s many stores, the new establishment will serve as Sincere’s flagship, not only in Malaysia but throughout Southeast Asia.  Covering 5,000 square feet, this boutique is dedicated to independent watchmaking, as all SHH stores are. Amongst the 17 brands on offer are Greubel Forsey and H. Moser & Cie. Alongside the watches is a private lounge with a bar, and an upscale dining area. The street-front facade with a custom LED screen An further expansion of the SHH concept Established almost two decades ago as a concept store focused on independent watchmaking, SHH is a vital part of Sincere, which was founded in 1954, making it Singapore’s oldest watch retailer. In 2020, fellow retailer Cortina Holdings acquired Sincere and revived the SHH concept, rolling it out in other markets including Taiwan and Thailand. The store is set to offer timepieces from 17 mostly independent brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier and Ferdinand Berthoud. The offer, however, is diverse, ranging from the classical to the extravagantly modern with Jacob & Co. And limited editions crafted specifically for SHH Kuala Lumpur will be released in due time, as was the case with its boutique at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands. The boutique’s interiors are embellished in gold and copper tones to e...

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon Nov 28, 2023

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon

Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...

Ressence Introduces a Limited Edition Type 1 for Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Nov 22, 2023

Ressence Introduces a Limited Edition Type 1 for Dubai Watch Week

Ressence continues to capture our interest and imaginations thanks to their ingenious time telling display, powered by their proprietary Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. The platform of circular discs orbiting one another is unlike anything else in watchmaking, and Ressence could probably dine out on this technology alone for years. But as releases like the new Type 1 DX3 prove, they don’t seem content to just make the same watch over and over again. The fact is, the physical characteristics of the ROCS system provide a great canvas for a design team to really go to town, and experiment with aesthetic choices that wouldn’t be possible on a normal watch.  The new Type 1 DX3 is a limited edition collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons for this year’s Dubai Watch Week. It’s the third and final watch in a series of collaborations between Ressence and the luxury retail group behind the Dubai Watch Week concept, and continues Ressence’s exploration of traditional Arab art. In this execution of the Type 1, the dial is a canvas for Arab geometric art, with a motif in gold and brown hues. The DX3 is a play on popular fumé dials, with darker tones at the perimeter and lighter shades in the center. Of course, like every Ressence, the smaller dials move throughout the course of a day, so the character of this effect changes gradually from moment to moment. Adding further to the dial’s visual complexity, virtually the entire surface is lumed, filled in a cloi...

Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field Watch Worn & Wound
Luminox Nov 20, 2023

Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field Watch

Known for producing some of the most popular sporting and outdoor gear on the market, Ball and Buck has teamed up with Swiss watch brand Luminox for their latest iteration of the classic Field Watch. The entirety of the watch centers around the Ball and Buck camo design that fits naturally into the field watch aesthetic. Used as the dial, one immediately gets the sense that this is a watch that’s meant to be worn in an array of environments year after year. Against the green and brown tones of the dial, the watch is accented in vibrant orange, which includes Luminox Light Technology providing maximum visibility even in the darkest environments for all-day use.  The watch itself runs on a 26 jewel automatic Swiss Sellita SW 220 movement that can be seen through the sapphire crystal exhibition back, adding a bit of hidden enchantment for an otherwise utility focused watch. The case measures 44mm in diameter and is 14mm tall.  The watch is available in two options. A standard and non-limited release priced at $1,298, gets you the watch with a leather strap. For an additional $200 at $1,498, you can opt for the limited edition set, which includes an additional ballistic nylon watch band, certificate of authenticity, and premium watch box. The collector’s set is limited to just 76 pieces.  The Ball and Buck x Luminox Field Watch is available now via the Ball and Buck website. Images from this post: The post Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field ...

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 17, 2023

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s autumn sale season in Hong Kong is led by Important Watches, a 146-lot sale featuring independent watchmaking, reflecting the genre’s current popularity. Notably, the season will also feature the first sale of the OAK Collection belonging to French collector Patrick Getreide.  In this compilation, we examine nine lots by independents ranging from watchmakers that are practically establishment now, like Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. Amongst the highlights from the OAK Collection are several unique watches made for past Only Watch auctions, one of the rare occasions these one-off watches are returning to market. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begins at at 1:00 pm on November 26 – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection sale (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Both sales take place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Lot 2242: Gerald Genta Arena Mickey Mouse  With the revival of Gerald Genta by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), there has been a renewed interest in the timepieces it crafted in the past. Watches produced during the era when the brand was owned Bulgari have received less attention, although some are equally interesting, like this Arena Mickey Mouse. Gerald Genta debuted its Fantasy line featuring Disney characters in the 1990s. That evolved into the Arena Fantasy in the 2000s, which included this particular 80-piece edition made in around 2009. The watch combines the fami...

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet while independent watchmakers continue Nov 12, 2023

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is the last major international event of the year’s horological calendar. Organised by Middle East retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, DWW takes place from November 16-20 at its traditional venue of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The event promises to be bigger and better than before, with exhibitors spanning the spectrum of watchmaking, from Rolex to Rexhep Rexhepi. From its origins as an event focused on niche and independent brands, DWW has grown to involve major marques. The exhibitors this year include Rolex and Audemars Piguet, while independent watchmakers continue to have a major presence. F.P. Journe, MB&F;, Urwerk, and Rexhepi Rexhepi are amongst the indies taking part. DWW founder Hind Seddiqi Many of the industry’s notable personalities will be Dubai Watch Week, with speakers including Frederic Grangie, head of Chanel’s watch and jewellery division; Francois-Henry Bennahmias, the outgoing chief executive of Audemars Piguet; and Jean Arnault, director of watches at Louis Vuitton. And independent watchmaking will have an equal share of the limelight, with Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell of MB&F; amongst the speakers. The event includes classes intended to give the public a taste of the watchmaking crafts. These include a gem setting workshop by Audemars Piguet and a miniature painting class by Louis Vuitton. DWW takes place from November 16-20, 2023 at DIFC. Entry is free but...

An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW299 Full disclosure I Nov 12, 2023

An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299

Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer Worn & Wound
Nov 9, 2023

[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer

Vortic Watch Company has been a mainstay of the Windup Watch Fair since its earliest days. We had the opportunity to catch up with the CEO of Vortic, R.T. Custer, at the fair. He gives us something we’ve been craving-a truly in-depth explainer of their why and their how-with some amazing examples along the way. Vortic is a unique organization, hell-bent on bringing watchmaking back to the United States, but with a modern and innovative twist. If you’ve ever wondered what Vortic is all about, you now have the definitive info at your fingertips. This video breakdown their process step-by-step and provides before and after glimpse of how they “preserve American history one watch at a time.” If you want to learn even more about the Vortic Watch Company after watching this explainer or would like to start the process of ordering your own custom pocket watch conversion, please visit vorticwatches.com. The post [VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer appeared first on Worn & Wound.