Hodinkee
Orient Star Diver 1964 2nd Edition
Striking the perfect balance between refined elegance and real-world toughness
Results for Watches and Wonders Geneva
34,786 articles · 4,324 videos found · page 1111 of 1304
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage
Having been at Cartier for almost four decades, Pierre Rainero is part of the institutional memory of a jeweller that was founded in 1847. He is the brand’s “Image, Style and Heritage” director, a post he has held since 2003 and one that also puts him in charge of the Cartier Collection, the brand’s own trove of historical timepieces, objects, and jewels that numbers over 1,500 items – the physical manifestation of the jeweller’s storied history. Mr Rainero’s title, along with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the house, means he determines whether something – anything really, ranging from watches and jewellery to marketing and strategy – is truly Cartier. We spoke with Mr Rainero during Watches & Wonders 2022 to unravel the process behind the development of new watches at Cartier. And he also tells us about the time Igor Stravinsky had a Cartier clock thrown at him. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Congratulations – it’s an impressive collection [launched at Watches & Wonders]. Pierre Rainero (PR): Thank you, thank you. SJX: The Crash is incredible of course. PR: Indeed, it’s just a step further [than we usually go]… It’s always difficult to rework the Crash because it’s such a statement in itself, so here was a certain finesse needed to take it further. In this case we capitalised on the original shape, but created something something else entirely because of the decoration, colours, and how it is perceived. The Crash Tigr...
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus: One Analysis Of How Prices Have Changed Over Four Years
How much does a Patek Philippe Nautilus cost? How will Nautilus prices evolve? Answering these questions, as relevant as they are, has become extremely difficult following the bubble formed in the luxury men’s watch market. This article analyzes the price history of 31 Patek Philippe Nautilus models, revealing the models that have gained an absolute value, the most dramatic relative increases, and the influence of case and bracelet material.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #11 “Mastering Chronographs”
In honour of Zenith’s exhibition “Master of Chronographs” that was held at Phillips in NYC this past week, what better time than the present to ensure we understand this legendary complication. Test your chronograph knowledge in the crossword below!The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #11 “Mastering Chronographs” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer
EDITOR’S NOTE: Blame it on a certain Patek Philippe ad if you will, but the idea of the watch as a family heirloom passed down from father to son retains a special emotive power. Today, in many parts of the world, it’s Father’s Day and that’s a good enough reason for us to revisit D.C’s … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: the new Grand Seiko SBGE285 “Mistflake”
We take a closer look at the newly released Grand Seiko SBGE285 "Mistflake", an extension to their Evolution 9 styling and textured dials.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon – Reprise
GaryG outlines why he bought a Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon, providing commentary on a collector’s mindset and the motivations, delights, and possible misgivings. And, of course, there are amazing photographs.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000
Here’s something I didn’t see coming: an entry-level automatic GMT watch from Seiko has just dropped, and it’s packing some serious GMT-Master vibes. The three colourways remind me of the modding community from the SKX message boards back in the day, where home tinkerers would modify their Seiko divers with aftermarket two-tone bezel inserts and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Louis Moinet Super Moon
Louis Moinet introduces the Super Moon, a novelty with métiers d'art and object d'are aspirations packaged in a whimsical but beautifully thought out watch.
Revolution
Grand Seiko introduces four new U.S. Special editions, including a new Peacock
For a deep dive into Grand Seiko’s evolution and philosophy, click here.
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Watch Collecting With My Dad
We were close, but watches made us closer.
SJX Watches
English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5
Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Gone But Not Forgotten: My Favorite Pieces That I've Let Go Over The Years
'Tis better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all. -Alfred Lord Tennyson
SJX Watches
An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet
Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Our Latest Pre-Owned Arrivals
Panerai, Rolex, Jaeger, and more.
Deployant
New: Urwerk UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket
Urwerk releases a new version of their UR-100 in a new all titanium case and bracelet - the 25 piece limited Edition UR-100V Full Metal Jacket.
Time+Tide
Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status
A 1970s Rolex MilSub that had been languishing in a chest of drawers for more than 25 years has sold at auction for £155,000. The sale that took place at Bonhams, in London’s New Bond Street, comfortably smashed the estimated value of £80,000 to £120,000. The anonymous owner from Scotland, took the rare item to … ContinuedThe post Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Entry Level: The Least-Expensive TAG Heuer Is One For The Masses
Since 1986, the TAG F1 has been a go-to first watch. And last watch.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: It's Showtime! Watch Spotting At The Apollo Theater Spring Gala
Rub the stump for good luck and let's dive on in.
Deployant
New: Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition
Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition. New with two novelties - a 1000 piece steel along with 250 in stainless steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated
Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Why Even Bother To Make A Magazine?
Chatting about the creation, content, and design in the latest issue of HODINKEE Magazine with Nick Marino and designer Mike Renaud.
SJX Watches
Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This
A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...
Deployant
Chatting with the Zenith CEO: Julien Tornare – an insider look into this grand maison
We caught up with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith recently when he was in Singapore and he gave us some interesting inside look at the grand maison.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price
To be honest, there’s no shortage of racing-inspired chronographs in the world. The inherent link between motorsports and watchmaking essentially guarantees that brands will leap on that theme for design, with elements of high-precision engineering and timing-based supremacy binding the two worlds together. So, with the popular genre so saturated, what do the young French … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz
Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...
SJX Watches
Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria
Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Genesis collection from Adam Benedict can actively help you to feel less stressed
What is the main purpose of a watch? Many would say it’s to simply tell us the time. But I think there are too many collectors out there that would beg to differ. In many ways, to them, the true purpose of a watch tends to be quite a personal thing. With that in mind, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Genesis collection from Adam Benedict can actively help you to feel less stressed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos
Bulgari have spent the last decade focusing on the Octo Finissimo as the flagship for their haute-horology endeavours, however there’s a growing movement from the Octo Roma range to offer more variety in the world of high-end art watches. The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng is one of their boldest Roma designs … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.