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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
Introducing: Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa For 100 Years Of Lufthansa Hodinkee
Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa Oct 2, 2026

Introducing: Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa For 100 Years Of Lufthansa

What We Know Sinn just dropped a new take on their classic 103 St pilot chronograph to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Lufthansa, one of the world's largest airlines. The new watch, which — fittingly — is limited to just 100 pieces, takes the model 103 and strips it down to the bare essentials. The result is the Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa, a watch that's slightly outside the norm for Sinn and replete with details nodding to the German flag carrier. The most obvious of these is the use of Lufthansa's signature shade of yellow for the hands and subdials markings associated with the chronograph function. The only other "colors" used are several shades of grey, each of which is pulled directly from Lufthansa's style guide (Lufthansa's iconic dark blue didn't make the cut for this one). Other Lufthansa-inspired details include a special engraving on the watch's rotor, visible through a sapphire display caseback, and an opening in the chronograph seconds hand meant to evoke the shape of an airliner window. Notably, this is not the first collaboration between Sinn and Lufthansa (though it is the most limited I'm aware of). The first of these (again, that I'm aware of), was the 747-piece limited edition Sinn 144-747.CARGO. Released 25 years ago, this was a very cool take on the Sinn 144 that included a scale around the rehaut that indicates target flight altitude for a Boeing 747 loaded to a given gross weight under normal atmospheric conditions. This was followed up by the 7...

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Hanhart Revisits Steve McQueen’s Personal Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex but his personal watches Oct 2, 2026

Hanhart Revisits Steve McQueen’s Personal Chronograph

Steve McQueen is closely associated with Heuer and Rolex, but his personal watches also included the less conspicuous Hanhart 417 ES. The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 commemorates that connection with a discreet dial signature and a strap modelled on his own, developed with input from his grandchildren. Initial thoughts Steve McQueen is inextricably linked to Hollywood, but also the objects he surrounded himself with — cars, clothing, sunglasses and watches. Though when it comes to the latter, he’s often mislabeled. The Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 is often erroneously nicknamed the ‘Steve McQueen’ despite the fact he never wore one (it was a Submariner ref. 5513). But before the Rolex and Heuer Monaco years came the Hanhart 417 ES, which McQueen was rarely seen without as it accompanied him through everyday activities for many of his early years in Hollywood. McQueen’s loyalty to the comparatively low-key Hanhart 417 may have been function-led. An avid racer, sportsman and marksman, the flyback chronograph with ample shock resistance and a useful rotating bezel likely hit the mark for what he wanted from a tool watch. Hanhart has kept the tribute restrained. The actor’s signature replaces the text above six o’clock on the standard 417 ES 1954 Heritage Flyback, but is small enough not to overwhelm the dial. The watch can stand on its own, even for someone with little interest in McQueen. It’s a good story for a watch priced at €2,890....

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Steve McQueen Finally Gets A Dedicated Hanhart 417 ES Fratello
Oct 2, 2026

Steve McQueen Finally Gets A Dedicated Hanhart 417 ES

At some point, everyone into vintage watches comes across certain iconic photos. They’ll see Paul Newman wearing cool Carrera-style sunglasses and his Daytona, Nina Rindt holding a “Großer Preis von Österreich” (Austrian Grand Prix) pamphlet with the UG chrono on her wrist, and Steve McQueen sitting on his couch, playing with his revolver, and wearing […] Visit Steve McQueen Finally Gets A Dedicated Hanhart 417 ES to read the full article.

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Seiko Surfaces with Prospex “Blue Tears” Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Surfaces Oct 1, 2026

Seiko Surfaces with Prospex “Blue Tears” Limited Edition

The Seiko Prospex Diver’s Watch “Blue Tears” ref. HBB006 gives the familiar “Samurai” a subtle blue-on-blue colourway, with a bright blue seconds hand providing the contrast. Affordable, well made, and rugged without over-the-top styling, the regional limited edition preserves the practical appeal of Seiko’s entry-level Prospex diver. Initial thoughts I like the “Blue Tears” for much the same reason I like Seiko’s other straightforward divers — it’s purposeful without looking dull. The blue-on-blue palette helps, particularly the vibrant seconds hand, which suggests an understanding of colour theory. Throughout history, artists (and some high-end watch brands) have employed this formula to enhance the perceived “glow” of the lighter colour. Nature-inspired dials are familiar territory for Seiko, and blue remains a crowd favourite. At 41.7 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm thick, the case offers sensible proportions for a substantial steel diver, and the bracelet’s faceted links carry on the angular form of the lugs, distinguishing it from other dive watches in the Seiko collection. In short, the design succeeds in part because it’s not trying to look like something else — a common problem in the dive watch segment. Priced just under SGD954, the “Blue Tears” offers convincing value, reinforced by is 1,200-piece limitation and the included silicone strap. Seiko’s industrial scale continues to pay dividends in this segment, enabling the brand to...

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Introducing - Lorige BL-Evolution “Competition”, Built from Le Mans Victory Monochrome
Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - Lorige BL-Evolution “Competition”, Built from Le Mans Victory

There is a particular appeal in owning a physical fragment of something meaningful, be it from popular culture, a piece of the Jacaranda stage where The Beatles first performed, or, in Lorige’s case, motorsport: the brake material used by a winning endurance-racing car, which was later turned into material for its BL-Endurance collection. Following the recent […]

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Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 Patek Oct 1, 2026

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043

Patek Philippe expands its feminine offerings with the Gondolo Ladies First ref. 7043 in white and rose gold with the option of diamonds, or even more diamonds. Housed in the Gondolo case with ergonomic articulating lugs and powered by a simple, well-decorated movement, Patek Philippe pitches the inaugural quartz Ladies First model as an easy-to-wear, design-led watch for a discerning (and well-heeled) clientele. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Ladies First launches alongside a new marketing campaign, helmed by London ad agency Leagas Delaney, responsible for the well known generations campaign and the famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. Until now, “Ladies First” meant complicated watches, including the 2009 debut of Patek Philippe’s excellent hand-wound chronograph calibre, as well as a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. In this context, a two-hand quartz watch is another first. The selection available at launch is arguably more characterful than the quartz-powered Twenty-4 models, and strengthen Patek Philippe’s catalogue in a segment that the industry has long overlooked. The indices on both the regular and jewellery models deserve special mention — the use of trapeze-cut stones, rather than more common rectangular baguettes, was, to my eye, a make-or-break decision for these dials, and Patek Philippe made the right choice. But, as usual for the brand, the value proposition may be ...

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Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour in Enamel and Marquetry SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe Captures Italian Splendour in Enamel and Marquetry

It was just a few months ago that Patek Philippe unveiled a wide range of Rare Handcrafts at its Geneva salon, but that hasn’t stopped the brand from releasing another full slate of Dome Clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches at its Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The brand’s capacity for artistic craft is vast, as is the selection of motifs, which is not limited to Milan. Subject matter ranges from miniature views of the Amalfi coast to Byzantine mosaics, with Italian architecture, landscapes and decorative arts supplying the common thread. Table and Dome Clocks The Table Clock ref. 25028M-001 “City of Milan” is a natural place to start since it puts the host city at the centre of the collection. Its map spreads across the dial and curved side panels, with the Duomo picked out in gold using paillonné enamel. Keeping the streets aligned as they pass between the three surfaces is one of the more demanding aspects of Patek Philippe Table Clocks, which are a staple of the brand’s Watch Art exhibitions. About 11 m of gold wire outlines the districts, filled with blues, greens and turquoises over barleycorn guilloche. The translucent flinqué enamel allows the underlying texture to remain visible, while opaque white distinguishes the principal roads. Four lozenge-shaped markers on the bezel serve both as quarter-hour indications and compass points. The “City of Milan” is a limited edition of three pieces. The Dome Clock ref. 20180M-001 “Ravenna” takes...

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Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, all roads lead back to Rome. Literally. Well, Rome’s home country, at least, where the passion for horology (and vintage Patek Philippe) permeates the culture, and has done so for decades, in a way that you really can’t find anywhere else. Add to that Milan’s status as fashion capital of the world, and it makes sense that Patek Philippe would host the seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The free exhibition (with reserved tickets) is meant to celebrate the art of watchmaking viewed through the lens of the craftsmanship (both technically and artistically) of Patek past and future. It opens tomorrow, October 2, and runs until October 18. As is tradition, the brand has launched new watches to celebrate the moment—7 new limited editions and 25 Rare Handcrafts models using various métiers d’art.  Ben wrote about the big news of a new manual-wind perpetual calendar chronograph (limited to 120 pieces) here. We'll also be sharing all the Rare Handcrafts pieces soon in a Photo Report from Milan. But while they're not all new references, the new treatments of a few pretty outstanding watches deserve their own story. First things first, all of these watches are ostensibly for the Italian market. But hey, better to have loved and lost (...out on a chance to buy them) than to never know they existed. As of launch, Patek has not released pricing for this model. We will update the article when more information becomes avail...

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Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Exhibition Patek Philippe has Oct 1, 2026

Complicated Calatravas Headline Patek Philippe Exhibition

Patek Philippe has just unveiled a suite of new limited editions for the Italian market, which make their debut at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. While the showstopper is the new instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P, Patek Philippe has expanded its range of complicated Calatravas with the Minute Repeater ref. 7047G, a new variant of a format that launched during Watches & Wonders, and the Perpetual Calendar ref. 7147G, which applies the brand’s familiar cal. 240-based perpetual calendar to a carbon-embossed Calatrava for the first time. Rounding out the selection of limited editions for the Italian market is the white-dialled time-only Calatrava ref. 7007G, a new Aquanaut ref. 5167 in stainless steel, and two variants of the World Time Minute Repeater ref. 5531G with enamel dials produced by Anita Porchet’s studio. Calatrava Minute Repeater ref. 7047G-010 While Patek Philippe is not an official partner of Ferrari, the vivid red dial feels distinctly Italian, suiting the Northern Italian location of the event. The colour makes it part of a trio of Calatravas in the colours of the Italian flag, but also has a connection to the history of this particular branch of the Calatrava family, making the automotive association more interesting than a passing resemblance to a red sports car. This generation of Calatrava, distinguished by its embossed “carbon” pattern dial and contemporary Arabic numerals, dates to the limited edition ref....

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Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 5978P Steals Milan Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition has just opened in Milan, three years after its last residency in Tokyo. The regular exhibit pops up in a new city every few years, and serves as a local demonstration of the brand’s prowess across complications and métiers d’art. For the Milan edition, the flagship new release is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5978P-010, which combines the instantaneous perpetual calendar system from the ref. 5207 with the brand’s manually wound cal. CH 29-535 chronograph movement. Visually, this combination of elements resembles the more upscale ref. 5208, but without the minute repeater functionality. Debuting in platinum, the blue-and-red ref. 5978P is limited to 120 pieces, but additional (non-limited) variants seem likely at some point in the future. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe was the first brand to combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications in a wristwatch. This breakthrough came surprisingly early in the history of the wristwatch — the fabled ref. 1518 debuted all the way back in 1941. Since then, this format has become almost synonymous with the brand. The ref. 5978P builds upon this legacy without retreading the same territory. For one thing, the watch eschews the familiar triple calendar dial layout of the refs. 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, 5270, and their cushion-shaped and split-seconds variants. Instead, the dial adopts the layout of the ref. 5208, characterised by three calendar windows across...

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Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? Fratello
Oct 1, 2026

Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts?

Brand ambassadors have long been part of the watch industry. From actors and athletes to musicians and explorers, these familiar faces help bring brands’ watches to a wider audience. But can that visibility do more than sell watches? Can it spark interest in horology among people who might never have given the hobby a second […] Visit Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? to read the full article.

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In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons SJX Watches
Breguet stopping Oct 1, 2026

In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons

Conventional wisdom holds that stopping a tourbillon for precise time setting — “hacking” in watchmaking parlance — is a difficult endeavor given the constant rotation of the cage. The hacking tourbillon wristwatch didn’t arrive until 2008, courtesy of the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret. In fact, hacking of any sort remained a rarity until the last few decades — ironic, since the primary function of the seconds hand has arguably evolved from a way to assess accuracy into an indicator that a watch is running. Some brands are still in the process of adding stop-seconds features to their basic calibres, and hacking remains scarcer still in wristwatch tourbillons, appearing with regularity only in the last two decades. But building for the waistcoat pocket, historical watchmakers have been stopping tourbillons for almost as long as they’ve been building them, and developed a number of solutions for this problem along the way, each stopping the tourbillon, or merely the seconds, in a different way. Breguet – stopping the seconds without stopping the watch Almost 225 years ago to the year, the French Ministry of the Interior granted Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon, a clever way to improve a watch’s marks during accuracy testing. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions, the “balance complete” — comprised of the balance, staff, roller, collet and balance spring — mu...

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Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026 Hodinkee
Baltic Sep 30, 2026

Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026

Walking through the halls of the Meridian Arts Center in Toronto, through the 90-ish brands assembled for the event by Jason Hutton and his team, it's hard to believe the Toronto Timepiece Show is only in its third edition. The show feels far more established than you'd expect from what is still a relatively nascent endeavor. It's an impressive feat, made all the more impressive by the explosion of Hutton's Timepiece Shows across Canada. Besides Toronto, this year's Timepiece Show made stops in Vancouver and — for the first time — Montréal. But Toronto is the original, and so I'm glad to have finally made it up to the Great White North to see what it's all about. This is what these shows are all about — finding moments to connect with other enthusiasts. Although, checking out the watches — like the latest offerings from Baltic — is important too. If you're not familiar with the concept, the Toronto Timepiece Show is one of several open-to-the-public watch fairs that have become core gathering points for enthusiasts around the world in recent years. Having now seen the Toronto Timepiece Show in person, I'm also convinced it's not one to miss. So, without further interruption, below is a look at just some of the watches, people, and moments I saw at 2026's edition of the Toronto Timepiece Show (and if you want to check out some of last year's show, you can see James's coverage here) Tudor Black Bay 54 The iconic Seiko Alpinist. Early Seamaster Professional 300M wi...

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Why I Bought A Replica - An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50 Sep 30, 2026

Why I Bought A Replica - An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is

Recently, we’ve received a fair number of messages about the Speedmaster ’57 Replica (or Re-edition, as Omega now refers to it). It’s still a Speedmaster variation that is under the radar for the masses, but can consistently count on praise from enthusiasts and collectors. So that’s why we thought it would be a good idea […] Visit Why I Bought A Replica — An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is to read the full article.

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Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee Raymond Weil Sep 30, 2026

Hands On: Raymond Weil Millesime Jubilee

Raymond Weil kicked off its 50th anniversary earlier this year with the Fifty, a vintage-inspired limited edition chronograph powered by an appropriately historical vintage calibre. The party continues with the Millesime Jubilee, a larger but more accessible “panda” variant that borrows the Millesime’s “sector” dial and appealing “pump” pushers. Limited to 500 pieces, the Jubilee exchanges the vintage movement for a modern automatic calibre, and looses its predecessor’s white gold bezel. But it retains much of what made the Fifty attractive at less than half the price. The Fifty (left) with the Jubilee Initial thoughts Raymond Weil appears to be claiming renewed relevance after years in the wilderness. Established in 1976, it was one of the few watch brands founded during that difficult period to survive and prosper. Classical designs at accessible prices, backed by widespread advertising, made it a familiar name. At its peak in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the brand was selling some half a million watches per year. But the affordable luxury category became crowded, and Raymond Weil gave up ground to new entrants, languishing for a number of years. The Millesime has given the brand a more convincing identity, combining familiar vintage styling with unusually good attention to detail for the money. The Jubilee chronograph is no exception. The conical flange carrying the tachymeter scale is particularly appealing. Attractively snailed, it slopes gently tow...

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Breguet Revamps Its Iconic Marine Collection Worn & Wound
Breguet Revamps Sep 29, 2026

Breguet Revamps Its Iconic Marine Collection

Breguet has long been a brand with a deep reverence to its history spanning over 250 years. In this tradition, Breguet’s designs have remained consistent and timeless. The brand’s Marine collection is a core part of this lineage, with roots that trace back to 1815 when Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy by King Louis XVIII. At the time, these marine chronometers were crucial scientific instruments, but as years passed and needs changed, the collection later evolved throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. On the coattails of Breguet’s 250th anniversary last year, we’re really seeing the brand’s offerings come into the modern era with new design updates. The latest comes to the Marine collection, which the brand has revamped with a new aesthetic that aligns with its latest stylistic codes.Two references anchor the contemporary Marine line: the 5517, a classic time and date version, and the 5527, a chronograph. For the first time, both the Marine 5517 and 5527 will feature Breguet numerals and the “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloche pattern that was unveiled to mark the 250th anniversary. This motif takes its name from the address on the Ile de la Cite where Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop and where his early marine chronometers were produced. Its design draws inspiration from two sources: first, the contours of the Ile de la Cite and Ile Saint-Louis as well as the repetitive movement of ocean waves. Several other ...

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