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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Best of 2023: Complications SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle but Dec 26, 2023

Best of 2023: Complications

Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Louis Erard Dec 21, 2023

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display.  Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...

If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023 SJX Watches
Nov 24, 2023

If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023

There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East. Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time. Inside the exhibition hall of DWW The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to. Stephen McDonnell at DWW The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches. Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Moh...

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet while independent watchmakers continue Nov 12, 2023

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is the last major international event of the year’s horological calendar. Organised by Middle East retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, DWW takes place from November 16-20 at its traditional venue of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The event promises to be bigger and better than before, with exhibitors spanning the spectrum of watchmaking, from Rolex to Rexhep Rexhepi. From its origins as an event focused on niche and independent brands, DWW has grown to involve major marques. The exhibitors this year include Rolex and Audemars Piguet, while independent watchmakers continue to have a major presence. F.P. Journe, MB&F;, Urwerk, and Rexhepi Rexhepi are amongst the indies taking part. DWW founder Hind Seddiqi Many of the industry’s notable personalities will be Dubai Watch Week, with speakers including Frederic Grangie, head of Chanel’s watch and jewellery division; Francois-Henry Bennahmias, the outgoing chief executive of Audemars Piguet; and Jean Arnault, director of watches at Louis Vuitton. And independent watchmaking will have an equal share of the limelight, with Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell of MB&F; amongst the speakers. The event includes classes intended to give the public a taste of the watchmaking crafts. These include a gem setting workshop by Audemars Piguet and a miniature painting class by Louis Vuitton. DWW takes place from November 16-20, 2023 at DIFC. Entry is free but...

Review: Tissot Sideral S Powermatic, new for 2023 Deployant
Tissot Sideral S Powermatic new Oct 28, 2023

Review: Tissot Sideral S Powermatic, new for 2023

The Tissot Sideral S is yet another win for Tissot. It is a refreshing addition to the dominant PRX line, and the more predictable heritage line of classic 3 hands and 'large' Valjoux chronographs. The tonneau case itself is quite fun to see in Tissot's product mix of non-circle cases, and even better with forged carbon. The watch is a good size and highly wearable, lightweight compared to any steel, steel bracelet watches, and 300m water resistant for the occasional swimmers. For those who want something less colorful, a regular black strap or black OEM rubber strap will make the watch much more stealthy. The forged carbon is matte finished, and not as contrasting unless under bright sunlight. The colorful lume is also mostly muted. At least for the red version with the grey ring, the watch can be very muted when not on the red strap, which is the primary reason why I chose the red model. The watches are priced at US$995 before tax.

Business News: Only Watch Postponed to 2024 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet withdrew from Oct 23, 2023

Business News: Only Watch Postponed to 2024

Today, the Association Monègasque les Myopathies (AMM) has decided to postpone what would have been the 10th instalment of Only Watch to 2024. Following questions on social media over the past couple of weeks, the foundation behind the charity auction has just released a statement outlining plans to push the event to next year, to allow it to take place in “in harmony with the community”. This news is coming despite a strong and public statement of support by François-Paul Journe declaring his “total confidence”, but also shortly after Audemars Piguet withdrew from the auction without any public statement as to why. The statement of support from François-Paul Journe The postponement is a regrettable move given the value of the initiative for medical research, but clearly one that founder Luc Pettavino and his team feel is necessary with just under two weeks until the auction was due to take place. Hopefully this delay will give its organisers time to quell the doubters on social media in recent days. With no set date yet announced, it is clear that this is a still a fluid situation and so we may see this auction take place early in the year, rather than during the fall as is tradition. However, it seems that those behind Only Watch take the concerns of the community seriously enough to ensure there is enough time to answer them all. We will be keeping you up to date as this story develops and more announcements are made. For the full statement from Only Watch, v...

Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023 Time+Tide
Sep 22, 2023

Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023

Luxury is typically associated with lavishness and opulence – diamonds, gems, yellow gold and the like. Some people want everyone around them to know they are doing well, their wardrobe and accessories a clear tell of this. Others, however, prefer to fly under the radar with their watches – a phenomenon that’s recently gained traction … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

International Stars of Independent Watchmaking Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023 Revolution
Holthinrichs Benoit Mintiens Sep 11, 2023

International Stars of Independent Watchmaking Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023

At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. In our session, International Stars of Independent Watchmaking, discover the state of independence with Konstantin Chaykin, Michiel Holthinrichs, Benoit Mintiens of Ressence, […]

Watchmaking’s Rising Stars Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023 Revolution
Sep 11, 2023

Watchmaking’s Rising Stars Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2023

At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. The star-studded panel for our discussion on Watchmaking’s Rising Stars included Simon Brette, Andrea Furlan, Stefan Kudoke, Rémi Maillat, Gautier Massonneau, Claude […]