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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style Quill & Pad
Porsche Design Sep 6, 2019

3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style

For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!

INTRODUCING: The Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith Time+Tide
Ming 17.06 Copper Sep 6, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith

Reintroducing their debut 17.01 model, the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith boast major construction improvements over their predecessors, as well as making some subtle design tweaks. With two new models, let’s first take a look at the 17.06 Copper. Offering warm earthy tones set within a polished stainless steel case, the 17.06 Copper is easily … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith SJX Watches
Ming 17.06 Copper Sep 2, 2019

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith

Ming made its debut with the affordable and well received 17.01 – which cost only US$900 – later revived as the 17.03 for the brand’s anniversary. Both models were limited editions, but popular enough that Ming has just unveiled the 17.06, which is essentially an improved version of the 17.01. The basics like the case size and movement are the same, but several details have been upgraded. To be produced in limited numbers each year, the 17.06 retains the styling of the original model, but incorporates subtle design tweaks as well as more substantial construction changes. The 17.06 retains the raised, luminous hour track that’s a Ming signature The bezel, for instance, is now secured by screws from inside the case, making removal for polishing easier. And the hands also sit closer to the crystal. Notably, the 17.06 is the first serially produced Ming wristwatch to have a stainless steel case. According to the brand, this resulted from the steel prototypes of the 17.06 being particularly well-liked by the brand’s founders. The 17.06 is available in two guises, each priced at slightly more than the original 17.01. Both are powered by an ETA 2824-2 “top grade” that’s regulated in five positions. The 17.06 Copper has a copper-tone dial with an engraved motif, matched with a case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’ll be limited to 300 pieces a year. The 17.06 Monolith is all black – the dial is matte black while the case is sandblasted...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

In-Depth: The Microscopic Magic of H4, Harrison’s First Sea Watch SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2019

In-Depth: The Microscopic Magic of H4, Harrison’s First Sea Watch

One can understand the opacity of the first published analysis of John Harrison’s first sea watch, colloquially known as H4 and the forerunner of the marine chronometer, in The Principles of Mr Harrison’s Time-keeper. Edited by the British Astronomer Royal Nevil Maskelyne, it was published by the British government in 1767; and hereafter referred to as Principles. Principles was both incomplete of enough information to allow the duplication of the watch, which Harrison (1693-1776) started in 1755 and finished in 1759, and contained somewhat incoherent description that only makes sense a posteriori after examination of the watch. ‘Principles of Mr. Harrison’s Time-keeper’ Amazingly, it was one hundred years later the next review took place. I can echo Harrison M. Frodsham’s comments in his review in Horological Journal of May 1878 when he said, “Former explanations taken from Harrison’s description are necessarily unsatisfactory, as his was very obscure, probably purposely so.”  Although this may be dismissed as 19th Century gossip by some scholars, this may have arisen in part to protect any military advantage, given the importance of H4 to maritime navigation. Considering H4’s historical performance, it is odd that the otherwise comprehensive A Treatise on Modern Horology in Theory and Practice (2ndedition) by Claudius Saunier, published in 1887, barely mentions Harrison and certainly not H4’s technical content. Perhaps it was because it was so quic...

Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London SJX Watches
Zenith Daytonas are well Sep 1, 2019

Phillips Debuts ‘Perpetual’ Boutique in London

Best known as a watch auctioneer par excellence, Phillips recently established Perpetual, a watch store inside its London showroom on Berkeley Square. A permanent showroom offering watches year-round, Perpetual was conceived to offer clients something to buy in-between the twice-yearly watch auctions. Perpetual comes a few months after the successful pop-up store that took place in March, where a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was purchased by Jean-Claude Biver, the legendary watch entrepreneur who’s now the non-executive chairman of the LVMH watch division. The watch department in London, led by financier-turned-watch-specialist James Marks, is the first outpost of Phillips to have a permanent store. “I believe that auction houses cannot apply the same business model to every geographical location,” explains Mr Marks, “and rather than rely on traditional seasons we need to be proactive with clients year round.” Perpetual officially opens on Wednesday, September 4, with a cocktail party and panel discussion. The panel is made of two industry luminaries – Mr Biver and Phillips’ auction chief Aurel Bacs – and myself. To RSVP for the panel discussion, register online with Phillips. The highlights The inaugural offering at Perpetual is diverse, encompassing both vintage and modern watches. Being a personal favourite of Mr Marks, Rolex “Zenith” Daytonas are well represented, but the line-up also includes a selection of choice examples of independent watchm...

MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 29, 2019

MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock

Over the past five years, independent powerhouse MB&F; and historical clockmaker L’Epée have built a reputation on enormous and complex creations, making horological spiders, robots, rocket ships and UFOs. This year, the duo has teamed up once more to create yet another eccentric tabletop timepiece – a cycloptic T-Rex. The T-Rex was first unveiled earlier in the year as a one-off creation that was customised with a rider atop for Only Watch. The T-Rex minus its passenger has now gone into production and is available in three iterations with either green, blue or red glass dials. While the earlier co-creations had more explicit influences, the T-Rex’s odd form requires some explanation. According to the brand, the source of inspiration was an ornament found on the desk of founder Maximilian Büsser that comprised of a Christmas bauble perched atop two chicken legs. Like the Medusa launched earlier in the year, the T-Rex strikes a balance between mechanical and organic forms. The 26.5cm tall body of the T-Rex is fashioned from stainless steel, palladium-plated brass and bronze, while its translucent “eyeball”, which also serves as the dial, is made of hand-blown glass from the same Murano producer that crafts the bodies of the Medusa. The jointed legs of T-Rex were designed to suggest motion, while its alternating sandblasted and polished finishing give it a sense of realism. In fact, the legs were modelled on actual Tyrannosaurus Rex bones, using 3D scans of f...

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI - “Titanium Inverse” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original PanoInverse Aug 19, 2019

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI - “Titanium Inverse”

Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Dream Aug 17, 2019

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement

Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel SJX Watches
Doxa Introduces Aug 15, 2019

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel

Most famous for making distinctively styled dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s, Doxa produces pretty much the same watches today as annual limited editions. The latest is the Sub 200 T.Graph, a remake of a 1969 diver’s chronograph – the flagship model of its day and now a rare, sought-after watch. The watch was first reissued as a 50th anniversary commemorative edition with an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet at Baselworld 2019. Now the more sensible steel version has arrived, and is still faithful to the original in shape and style. Typical of 1970s design, the case is a chunky cushion shape and matched with a “beads of rice” bracelet. The dial is orange – reputedly easier to see underwater than black – with block-style markers and hands, also typical of 1970s watches. And all the luminous paint on the dial is faux vintage Super-Luminova in “old radium” colour, meant to replicate the look of the aged tritium on the vintage originals. And the bezel is Doxa’s own dual-scale bezel that has both the dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing for recording of time underwater without decompression stops. The movement inside is a “new old stock” Valjoux 7734, which is vintage and dates to the 1980s, but is not the same calibre as in the original. The original was powered by the Doxa cal. 287, a hand-wound movement that was a rebadged cal. 310-82 from Eberhard, a sister company of Doxa at the time. In its day, and still today, the cal. 7...

Ever fancied owning a piece of Australian political history? How about Bob Hawke’s watch?  Time+Tide
Aug 13, 2019

Ever fancied owning a piece of Australian political history? How about Bob Hawke’s watch? 

Former Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke, who died in May this year, stands as one of the country’s most colourful - and beloved - political figures. He also enjoyed a particularly long tenure as PM, from March 1983 until December 1991, winning four elections as Labor leader. And while his political legacy includes the creation … ContinuedThe post Ever fancied owning a piece of Australian political history? How about Bob Hawke’s watch?  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR Review WatchAdvice
Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR Aug 13, 2019

Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR Review

Today we’re taking an in-depth look at the 2019 Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR.  Released earlier this year at Baselworld as part of the brand’s 2019 collection, the ‘new’ BLNR featured several updates and replaced the previous reference 116710BLNR, iconically known as ‘the Batman’. This new reference was quickly nicknamed the ‘Batgirl’, a term I don’t particularly like. Names aside, the reference 126710 was an instant hit leveraging its predecessor’s insatiable demand. The result of this incredible demand is very long waitlists – so if you ever get ‘the call’ – I suggest you answer, you won’t regret it! In case you thought Batman was just a DC character, this, Batman has been a highly desirable watch since the reference 116710BLNR was released way back in 2013. But let’s rewind a little further.  The evolution of Rolexes iconic GMT-Master II collection has been interesting and potentially underappreciated. In 2005, Rolex debuted their Cerachrom (often referred to as Ceramic), on the Yellow Gold GMT-Master II (black dial, black bezel). Then, in 2007, Rolex released the Steel GMT-Master II reference 116710LN (the ‘Noir’), which featured an all-black cerachrom bezel. The Noir was arguably (or at least by Rolex standards) underrated until it’s discontinuation earlier this year. So, when the steel bi-coloured Batman (reference 116710BLNR) was released in 2013 – it caused a splash of excitement, which is yet to settle. One might ...

Un-GPHG 2019 -  the watches we wish would win Time+Tide
Aug 12, 2019

Un-GPHG 2019 -  the watches we wish would win

Every year the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) provides a point of interest for the watch community. Long after the hype of SIHH and Baselworld has died down, it’s a chance to catch our breath, look back at the year that was, and assess how many good watches were made in the preceding 12 … ContinuedThe post Un-GPHG 2019 – the watches we wish would win appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 - the Top Gun collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s family part 1 Aug 8, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 - the Top Gun collection

IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so - they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose - as a navigational tool for aviators - the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Zenith A Star Through Time” Aug 5, 2019

Events: Zenith “A Star Through Time” Exhibition in Singapore

Created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the automatic chronograph movement that’s synonymous with Zenith, A Star Through Time embarks on world tour that starts in August, with the first stop being Singapore. Happening during the exhibition is a panel discussion that includes our founder, Su Jiaxian, as well as several watchmaking classes – details on how to attend are at the bottom. The exhibition The key attraction of A Star Through Time is an interactive, virtual tour of Zenith’s manufacture in Le Locle. It’s modelled on Le Monde Étoilé de Zenith, a collaboration between the watchmaker and Neuchâtel’s local tourism authority. Conceived to boost knowledge of watchmaking in the area, the project created a interactive, 360° experience that allows guests to go behind-the-scenes at the manufacture. Walking through the exhibition is akin to a stroll through a scaled down version of the Le Locle manufacture, including a virtual visit to the famous attic where, during the Quartz Crisis, watchmaker Charles Vermot hid the tools and plans to produce the El Primero, keeping them out of the hands of American managers who wanted to eliminate production of mechanical watches. The 400m2 exhibition also traces the evolution of the El Primero, illustrated by significant El Primero-powered watches, including the landmark early examples like the A386 in steel and G381 in 18k gold. Though dedicated to the El Primero, arguably the first ever sel...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Aug 2, 2019

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition

IWC’s popular, oversized pilot’s watch is already available in as many variations as the sky is high, but the latest limited edition – the Big Pilot’s Watch “Right-Hander” – is the first that’s a “destro”. Italian for “right”, destro is a nickname often applies to watches with a left-handed crown, and thus catered to right-handed people. Because the onion-shaped crown sits at nine o’clock instead of the usual three, the movement inside has been rotated 180 degrees, bringing the power reserve indicator to nine o’clock as well. For those wondering if this is inspired by a historical, “destro” pilot’s watch, the answer is no. This is just a reinterpretation of a bestselling model. Crown-aside, the look is pretty much stock Big Pilot. The dial is a dark grey, with luminous markings and hands in white SuperLuminova. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model. The steel case is 46.2mm in diameter, with automatic cal. 52010 inside. It’s the second generation of the flagship IWC automatic movement, featuring a seven-day power reserve and a Pellaton winding mechanism with its pawls and winding wheels in wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts Diameter: 46.2mm Height: 15.6mm Material: Steel Water-resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 52010 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 168 hours (7 days) Strap: Calfskin with folding clasp Price and availab...

Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Jul 30, 2019

Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Review

The 21st of July 1969 at 02:56:15 GMT marks a momentous step in world history, as this was when the Astronaut Neil Armstrong stepped off the Apollo 11 Lunar Module “Eagle” to become the first human to stand on another planet. Astronaut Buzz Aldrin accompanied Neil Armstrong in achieving this incredible feat when he also joined his compatriot on the lunar surface. Buzz Aldrin who has been an Omega ambassador since 2009, wore the Omega Speedmaster Professional on the Apollo 11 space mission, which is when it became the first watch to be worn on the moon. The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary limited edition not only celebrates the historic occasion of celebrating the 50 years since the first Speedmaster on the moon, but is also the first watch in history to use Omega’s new patent-pending alloy; 18k Moonshine Gold. This pioneering new Gold alloy offers a lighter tone than a normal yellow Gold alloy would, while also having a much higher resistance to colour fading. This 18k Moonshine Gold alloy has been used on the dial and the casing which helps accentuate the colour from the darker tones used throughout these parts. The bezel along with the Omega logo, diamond polished indexes and the highlighted 11 on the 11-hour mark are all done in the 18k Moonshine Gold alloy. Omega has cleverly made the 11 o’clock hour marker in Arabic Numeral instead of the beveled indexes as a tribute to the Apollo 11 Lunar module “Eagle”. The hour and minute hands are designed...

Hands-On: Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 30, 2019

Hands-On: Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition”

Despite being one of many recent startups specialising in stylish, affordable watches, Gorilla has managed to set itself apart from a crowded field by creating watches that are well designed and smartly detailed. That’s because the Gorilla was founded in 2016 by two veterans watch design: Lukas Gopp, an alumni of IWC and Audemars Piguet, and the better known of the pair, Octavio Garcia. Mr Garcia spent almost 15 years at Audemars Piguet, five of them as chief designer; one of his most famous and successful creations was the Royal Oak Offshore “Alinghi” in forged carbon, one of the hottest watches of the mid-2000s. Gorilla now only offers essentially a single model – the Fastback – in several variations, with the design and colours inspired by 1950s American muscle cars. And it is obvious that several of its watches are reminiscent of certain Audemars Piguet timepieces. But with the Gorilla watch case having a distinctive profile of its own, coupled with the fact that most of its watches cost less than US$800, Gorilla watches have an easy appeal. A gilded 15 This particular Gorilla is a limited edition made for the 15th anniversary of Red Army Watches, a Singapore-based retailer that specialises in affordable watches; amongst the other brands it carries are SevenFriday and Grand Seiko. Formally known as the RAW x Gorilla Fastback Celebratory Edition, the watch is not drastically different from the standard model that serves as the base, the Fastback Gal...

RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous? Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous? Jul 29, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous?

In the past, owning a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date meant something different to what it does now. It was the President’s watch, worn by those who controlled the destinies of millions around the world, making daily decisions that mattered. Now the perception of the Day-Date is influenced by rappers and Instagram hustlers, offering an ostentatious … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is the yellow gold Rolex Day-Date vulgar or virtuous? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Jul 27, 2019

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition

As Tokyo counts down to hosting the 2020 Olympics, the games’ official timekeeper is also counting down with progressive rollouts of limited edition watches. Exactly a year to the start of Tokyo 2020, Omega has announced a pair of commemorative dive watches: the Seamaster Aqua Terra Tokyo 2020 and the slightly less interesting Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020. Inspired by the Japanese flag, the Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition is clad in white with red accents. It is based on the midsize Planet Ocean, so the steel case is 39.5mm in diameter (the largest size is 43.5mm). Both the dial and bezel insert in white ceramic. The “lollipop” tip of the seconds hand is in red, as is the “20” on the bezel. Inside is the Master Chronometer cal. 8800, a top of the line automatic movement with various innovations designed to ensure good timekeeping over long periods, including a silicon hairspring and Co-Axial escapement. And special alloys used for the escapement ensure it is magnetism-resistant to 15,000 Gauss.   Key facts Diameter: 39.5mm Material: Stainless steel Movement: Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 55 hours Strap: Delivered with three options – steel bracelet, rubber strap lined with white crocodile leather, and fabric “NATO” strap. Price and availability The Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition (ref. 522.33.4...

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Jul 14, 2019

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch”

Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...

Editorial: The Pursuit of Greatness in Vintage Complications SJX Watches
Patek Philippe landmark complicated references ref Jul 14, 2019

Editorial: The Pursuit of Greatness in Vintage Complications

There is no real point in collecting anything unless for the sake of beauty. The moment I see a watch for the first time is always the most crucial. The pieces that ended up entering the collection always touched me viscerally when I first saw them.  Over time, almost unconsciously, as the collection took shape, the watches not only have a uniformity of standard and taste, but also reflect an intuition distinctly my own.  Taste is the developed perception of aesthetics unique to every collector, while standard pertains to quality and rarity. In the big picture, “beauty” – in both tangible and abstract terms – has come to encompass all three: aesthetics, quality, and rarity.  The watches I crave and seek, be it the best examples of the most important references of the most important manufactures, or unique “time-only” examples of incredible quality and design, must be eternal in their beauty. In this article we delve into a few complicated watches close to my heart.  Passing time cannot affect an object that is truly beautiful. Just look at two of the most important Patek Philippe landmark complicated references: ref. 1518, the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch in the world, and ref. 3448, the first self-winding, perpetual calendar wristwatch. Their designs are perfectly balanced, timeless, as fresh today as when they were first introduced – in the early 1940s and the early 1960s, respectively.  For years, the daunting challenge had been in ...

Have a heart - the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon Time+Tide
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon Jul 8, 2019

Have a heart - the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon

In a world overflowing with safe-and-similar watch designs, Franck Muller is a breath of fresh air. As in this ladies tourbillon (a recent addition to the Cintrée Curvex Collection), the confident use of colour, the beautiful balance of traditional and avant-garde, the refined details on the dial, and the voluptuous curves of the case have … ContinuedThe post Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia

Dan Henry is a pretty great little watch brand - the brainchild of a Brazilian watch collector who is dedicated to making affordable modern versions of classic designs. And while other brands go down this path of well-priced retro nostalgia, too often it comes across as inauthentic pastiche. But this isn’t an accusation you can … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph is perfectly pitched (and priced) nostalgia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication” which sold Jul 7, 2019

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever

The timepieces that held the title of “most complicated watch ever”, as well as their famous owners, are mostly well known – save for the long-lost English grand complication commissioned by banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Morgan was a great collector of watches, and his grandest timepiece was a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. It  was the most complicated English watch ever made, and perhaps the most complicated watch in the world at the time of its completion. Though Morgan’s watch has long been surpassed in complexity by other hands, and it bears the name of a defunct English brand, it has arguably the greatest provenance of all super-pocket watches. Unlike James Ward Packard or Henry Graves, who were both wealthy, accomplished, and little known individuals outside their fields, Morgan is still the best known banker in history; the biggest bank in the United States today bears his name. The grandest of all time But first, a brisk walk through the grand complication hall of fame. The most famous most-complicated-watch-ever is, of course, the Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication”, which sold for US$24m in 2014 and still holds the record for the most expensive watch ever sold. Commissioned by American banker Henry Graves Jr in 1925, and delivered in 1933, the Graves pocket watch outdid the now obscure Leroy 01 that was sold in 1904 to a Portuguese millionaire. And it also surpassed the various watches produced for automobile ...

RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet Time+Tide
Jul 5, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet

Despite what many may think, the birth of the watch internet happened a long time before Instagram was around. Back in those days (in an almost Grecian purity), the forum was king, with moderators wielding the sword of truth, slaying inaccurate idiots with all of the mercy Zeus was known for. These forums, most popularly … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An introduction to the watch internet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton high watch collection’ wants Jul 1, 2019

If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you

Louis Vuitton, the watchmaker. As time goes on, this statement is gaining credibility and intrigue. And intrigue is certainly the word I would use to describe this shoot, which involved the Time+Tide team flying to Queenstown in New Zealand with Louis Vuitton to explore the brand’s high watch collection 2019. The setting was, sparing all … ContinuedThe post If you’re interested in Geneva Seal standard watchmaking, this Louis Vuitton ‘high watch collection’ wants to meet you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue Jul 1, 2019

Introducing the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue for Only Watch 2019

A young Francois-Paul Journe created his sixth ever watch in 1987; it was an “astronomic planetary watch”, a pocket watch with faces on each side. Over three decades later that has been reimagined as the Astronomic Blue, a prototype grand complication made for Only Watch 2019. Mentioned by Mr Journe in an interview late last year, the Astronomic Blue is a hand-wound wristwatch with astronomical functions on two faces, as well as a minute repeater and tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite. The complications total 18, and are powered by a movement made up of 758 parts, making it more complex than the Sonnerie Souveraine. The astronomic planetary watch of 1987, signed “Journe à Paris” Like the preceding F.P. Journe watches made for Only Watch, namely the tourbillon and split-seconds, the Astronomic Blue has a tantalum case and mirrored blue dial like that found on the Chronometre Bleu. The case is 44mm in diameter and 13.75mm high, making it comparable in size to the discontinued Sonnerie Souverain and recent Tourbillon Souverain Vertical. Remembering 1987 As with many of Mr Journe’s early creations, the pocket watch was inspired by both Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels, a quality that is echoed in the Astronomic Blue. Like the George Daniels Space Traveller, the front shows sidereal and mean solar time on two symmetrically arranged sub-dials, while the reverse has a ring-type annual calendar and equation of time indicator, which is reminiscent of the...