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The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance Time+Tide
Cartier Santos-Dumont Oct 9, 2019

The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance

Cartier is a brand that doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar SJX Watches
Bulgari all companies Oct 7, 2019

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar

Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement.   Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...

Patek Philippe Reference 5160: An Overlooked Mechanical Delicacy – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5160 Oct 5, 2019

Patek Philippe Reference 5160: An Overlooked Mechanical Delicacy – Reprise

When most people think of Patek Philippe, they think of the evergreen models that roll off the lips of enthusiasts all over the world: Nautilus, Gondolo, Calatrava, and perhaps even that delectable worldtimer that appeared in 2013’s new Patek Philippe offerings as Reference 5130. But one of the many elements that I personally adore about Patek Philippe is its love of the handcrafted arts and the perpetuation of them in highly aesthetic ways.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs SJX Watches
Breitling Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – Oct 4, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs

Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 4, 2019

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite

When Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Gyrotourbillon in 2004, it was an incredibly exciting watch, and arguably marked the high water mark of Jaeger-LeCoultre as a maker of contemporary complications. Fifteen years on, the Gyrotourbillon has cycled through many iterations, most more complex or sophisticated than the original but none quite as revelatory. Variants include the compact and slightly more affordable Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon and the more recent Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetuel. The latest to join the line-up is the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite, which is a third generation model dressed up with fired enamel, meteorite and aventurine. The chronograph sub-dial and digital counter are at nine o’clock, with the day-night display at three One of the most complicated versions of the Gyrotourbillon, the Gyrotourbillon 3 combines the double-axis tourbillon with a single-button chronograph with digital, instantaneous 60-minute counter as well as a day and night display. The tourbillon features two spherical , aluminium cages containing a cylindrical hairspring in the centre. The cages rotate in opposing directions and at a different rates, working to eliminate the gravitational errors caused by the changing position of the wearer’s wrist. And more importantly, it’s a compelling visual spectacle on the idea. Space rock and artisanal craft The sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock features a meteorite centre ringed by an ...

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 3, 2019

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer

Designer of some of the most striking wristwatches of the 1960s, jeweller Gilbert Albert (1930-2019), passed away in his hometown of Geneva on October 1 , 2019. He was 90. Son of a newspaper deliveryman, Albert trained as a jeweller at Geneva’s l’Ecole des Arts Industriels and was only in his mid 20s when he joined Patek Philippe in 1955 as a designer. In his seven years at the watchmaker, which was then led by Henri Stern, himself a trained jeweller, Albert was responsible for some of the most radical watch cases of the era. These strikingly asymmetrical timepieces, like the Asymétrie wristwatches and Ricochet pocket watches, are still incredible designs six decades on. Gilbert Albert. Photo – lenouvelliste.ch He then set up his own workshop in 1962, where he became known for the use of unusual materials like coral and meteorite, all installed in quirky, unique jewellery desirable enough that frequent fakes eventually emerged. Albert also designed watches and jewellery for other watchmakers, most notably Omega, where he created several collections, including the Maille d’Or and Arabesque d’Or, all characterised by a distinctive, almost organic style. With his success, Albert built a small but highly regarded jewellery business. He opened his first store in his hometown in 1973, sited on rue de la Corraterie, a street just outside the walls of Geneva’s Old Town. Ten years later that was followed by a boutique in Zurich. Albert’s boutique in Gen...

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While Oct 3, 2019

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer

Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary - SRQ029J Time+Tide
Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Oct 2, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary - SRQ029J

Celebrating five decades since its first automatic chronograph was released, Seiko has just unveiled this, the new Seiko Automatic Chronograph SRQ029J 50th Anniversary. First revealed in 1969, the original Seiko Automatic Chronograph featured the Japanese watchmaker’s historic Calibre 6139 movement, which utilised an integrated vertical clutch and column wheel chronograph architecture. 1969 was a competitive and interesting … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary - SRQ029J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Temptation strikes with Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori  Time+Tide
Bulgari s Serpenti Seduttori  Have Oct 1, 2019

Temptation strikes with Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori 

Have you ever had a real snake wrap itself around your wrist? If not, I urge you to do so. Really. It’s a wonderful sensation. If you have, you will know exactly what I mean. It feels amazingly sensuous. Gentle, warm, almost fluid. And those were pretty much my first impressions when I tried on … ContinuedThe post Temptation strikes with Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Oct 1, 2019

Interview: Patek Philippe Museum Curator Dr Peter Friess on Restoration

The epic Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 was massive not just in scale and numbers, but also in the Patek Philippe executives who travelled halfway across the world from Geneva to Singapore just for the event. All of the company’s top management is the town for the event, including president Thierry Stern, chief executive Claude Peny, and commercial director Jerome Pernici. But perhaps the most interesting personality for a hardcore watch geek is Dr Peter Friess, curator of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. A studied man who’s spent his life in museums and cultural institutions, Dr Friess is an art historian by training but also a true horologist. He’s the sort of guy who gets deeply excited over the “new old stock” 369-year old Cremsdorff pocket watch the museum recently acquired, and is familiar with the catgut used in 16th century chain and fusee mechanisms. Dr Peter Friess at the Singapore exhibition, with a portrait of Antoine Norbert de Patek behind him The first ever Patek Philippe wristwatch; importantly, it was not conceived as a bangle with a pendant watch movement bolted on, instead it is a timepiece for the wrist Unsurprisingly, the German native is also a professional watch- and clockmaker. Dr Friess joined the Patek Philippe Musuem as Director and Curator exactly seven years ago. Before that, he was President of the Tech Museum of Innovation in California, as well as a curator at the Smithsonian where he put tog...

Introducing the Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Limited Edition SPB111J1 SJX Watches
Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Oct 1, 2019

Introducing the Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Limited Edition SPB111J1

Since its global debut in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection has quickly gained a following for its dials that feature artisanal decoration, usually executed with traditional Japanese crafts such as urushi lacquer and Arita porcelain, but at strikingly affordable prices. Following the launch of the first Presage with a Spring Drive movement (in the past, automatic or hand-wound movements were the norm) a few months ago, the brand has now unveiled a limited-edition automatic with a deep green dial made of fired, vitreous enamel, otherwise known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. Inspired by the colour of Japanese cedar trees, the green enamel dial features applied hour markers – instead of the more common printed or painted markers found on enamel dials – paired with rounded dauphine hands. The dial is once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who work for Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., one of Japan’s biggest makers of enamelware. The company has been Seiko’s go-to supplier for high-quality enamel dials made on a large scale at relatively low cost, a crucial reason why the Presage watches equipped with enamel dials are eminently affordable. As with a majority of automatic Presage models, the case is in stainless steel and measures 40.8mm wide and 12.4mm in height. It’s simply finished with a bright mirror polish on most surfaces, with the top of the lugs brushed for a little contrast and structure. Visible throu...

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Sep 30, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a watch that has roots in the 1980s when their St. Moritz model was released. It was during a period when the stainless steel luxury sports watch boom was in full swing. Case in point, between 1980 and 1995, the St. Moritz model alone sold 50,000 pieces. Now, the St. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 Ref. 5167A-012 (With Pricing) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 Ref. 5167A-012 (With Pricing)

Since its introduction in 2007, the popularity of the Aquanaut 5167A has followed on the coattails of the Nautilus Ref 5711/1A. And now for the occasion of the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition Aquanaut ref. 5167A-012 with red accents and a red strap. The dial features the Aquanaut’s traditional chequerboard motif, but with red minute markers and a red central hand. The addition of colour is a nod to Singapore’s flag, which is red and white. Though the cosmetic changes are minimal, the overall effect of which is nonetheless striking and appealing. Depth rated to 120m, the case remains 40mm in diameter and is paired with a red composite strap. It houses the cal. 324 S C, which is visible through a sapphire case back that has been printed with the inscription “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019”. The cal. 324 S C is the brand’s central-rotor automatic movement that is fairly ordinary but attractively finished. It offers a short 35- to 45-hour power reserve, and as with all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is fitted with a Gyromax balance wheel, which is essentially a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance, as well as a silicon Spiromax hairspring. Key facts Diameter: 40mm Height: 8.1mm Material: Stainless steel Water-resistance: 120m Movement: cal. 324 S C Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 35 to 45 hours Strap: Red composite Pr...