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The Insider View: Industry status and major Trends
We will begin to carry the monthly Luxury Industry Performance Index by Dr. Frank Muller, CEO of TBTL, and special correspondent to Deployant writes.
Results for Equation of Time
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SJX Watches
Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop
A master case maker who retired in 2017, Jean-Pierre Hagmann is back in action, as a partner in Akrivia’s case-making workshop in Geneva. Now 78 years old, Mr Hagmann struck out on his own in 1984, starting a stellar career that would see him become a case maker for most of Switzerland’s best watchmakers. (For a detailed profile of Mr Hagmann, see my 2016 story.) His client list included establishment names like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and of course, Patek Philippe, where he produced highly-regarded cases for its minute repeaters. In fact, Mr Hagmann was also responsible for the impressively complex case of the Star Calibre 2000, the uber-pocket watch Patek Philippe introduced to mark the new millennium. Mr Hagmann at work in the 1980s The Patek Philippe ref. 5029 minute repeater, which had a Hagmann case In the first half of his career, Mr Hagmann also worked with many of the up-and-coming stars of independent watchmaking of the 1980s and 1990s, including Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis. He produced the very first Cintree Curvex cases for Franck Muller, as well as the early cases for Roger Dubuis. Another of Mr Hagmann’s cases: the Franck Muller Cintree Curvex minute repeater with perpetual calendar, circa 1991 Three decades later, Mr Hagmann is back where he began. He’s joined forces with a rising star of independent watchmaking, Akrivia, whose founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, is just 32 years old. Though young, Rexhep grasps the impo...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch
Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...
SJX Watches
Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch
One of Switzerland’s most important timepiece museums, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), is raising funds with a limited edition, rising hours wristwatch that’s both cleanly styled and affordable. Arriving some 14 years after the first, minimalist MIH watch created by independent watchmakers Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, the MIH Gaïa watch, named after the annual Gaïa Prize given out by the MIH, is the result of a collaboration between watch industry suppliers located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the hometown of the MIH. The MIH Gaïa watch will be crowdfunded, and a minimum number of orders will be needed for it to enter production. Importantly, the MIH Gaïa watch is priced at about US$2400, half what the original MIH watch with an annual calendar cost about a decade ago, making it a compelling value proposition. A local collaboration Each aspect of the watch, from design to the case, was the work of a local supplier. Some are little known outside the industry, like buckle maker Cornu & Cie, while others are famous – the dial was made by Jean Singer & Cie, best known for the dials it made for Rolex and Patek Philippe in the mid 20th century. Slightly bowl-shaped, the case of the watch is inspired by the MIH building, while the domed dial is inspired by the spherical Gaïa Prize trophy. Time is indicated on two discs: rising hours in a window at 12 o’clock, and the the minutes on a disc just below. It’s a classically sized timepiece...
Deployant
New: NOMOS Tangente neomatic 39 Red Dot Limited Editions
Four new special edition NOMOS Tangente neomatic 39 with special dials to celebrate 200 years of Singapore and The Hour Glass 40th Anniversary.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Nomos Tangente Neomatik “Red Dot” Limited Editions
Singapore watch retailer The Hour Glass has just unveiled yet another limited edition to mark the its 40th year – the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Red Dot. It’s the most affordable anniversary edition yet, and also also the third in the annual “Red Dot” series of watches made for Singapore. Available in four iterations, each limited to just 50 pieces, the limited edition is based on the bestselling Tangente automatic, arguably the quintessential Nomos. It screams, or rather quietly declares, Nomos’ design philosophy of Deutscher Werkbund, the predecessor of Bauhaus, and is characterised by a clean dial with large, alternating hour numerals and a case with thin, angular lugs. While most limited-edition watches from Nomos vary in colour, with subtle, yet profound tweaks to the palette, the new Red Dot quartet departs from the norm in one drastic way: the first pair features Eastern Arabic numerals, while the second has its hours in Chinese oracle bone script. According to The Hour Glass, the use of both scripts is a nod to Singapore’s history as an entrepot where traders from both the Near East and Far East often stopped. All four watches also pay tribute to the country with a small in-joke, with a little red dot at six o’clock – a reference to the city state’s frequent depiction on maps. The Eastern Arabic duo Bone oracle script and the “little red dot” Essentialism First conceived in 1992 by Nomos founder Roland Schwertner, the Tangente...
Revolution
“I was born with a pencil in my hand” – Sunflowerman
In the age of mighty megapixel macros, it sometimes takes the inspired flourish of fine art to help us see even precious things in a different light.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition
It seems like only yesterday that Breitling released their Navitimer 1 Airline Editions. Evidently, time doesn’t stop for the aeronautically enthusiastic watchmaker, though, because they’ve just dropped this – the Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition. Based on Breitling’s standard Aviator 8 Day & Date 41, the Etihad Airways … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Collectionneurs in Singapore
Les Collectionneurs is a small, but special, line of watches offered by Vacheron Constantin. Made up of select vintage watches that have been restored to pristine condition at the factory, Les Collectionneurs is made up of about 75 watches. A selection is available year-round at three Vacheron Constantin boutiques – the two in Geneva and one in New York City – with the balance travelling and making stops at other boutiques around the world. From now till the end of October, a pick of Les Collectionneurs watches, including the exquisite ref. 4261 minute repeater, are in Singapore, over a year since the line-up last came by. As a whole, the 19-piece selection in Singapore presents a rich and interesting overview of Vacheron Constantin’s midcentury history. The brand’s mastery of case and lug styles is well illustrated, from the dramatic, wing-shaped “Batman” Chronometre Royal to the familiar “teardrop” lugs of the ref. 4178 chronograph. Factory refreshed While the models in Les Collectionneurs are diverse, and also acquired from a variety of sources, ranging from private collectors to auctions, they are all selected based on shared criteria: rarity, provenance, and of course, current trends. More importantly, the watches are fully and correctly restored, and delivered with an archive extract as well as a two-year warranty. For the client, that’s essentially the same assurance as when buying a brand new watch. Importantly, the factory approa...
SJX Watches
Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”
On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248
Grand Seiko has something of a reputation for finely finished understatement. This watch is, well, a little extra. That’s not to say that the Grand Seiko SBGE248 isn’t as finely finished as you’d expect, it’s just that, thanks to its popping blue and gold colourway, this Grand Seiko isn’t under anyone’s radar. Which, honestly, is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Stealth Wealth watches that could fool a seasoned watch collector
Most seasoned watch collectors will easily recognize the usual culprits, the Pateks, Rolexes, APs, Richemont/Swatch/LVMH brands from a distance. In order to make this list of watches that qualify as stealth wealth, we have chosen timepieces that are 'unexpectedly' expensive, yet not instantly recognizable. They look simple on the dial side, yet have hidden complications and/or 'insane' finishing.
SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph
A Swiss brand now owned by Citizen Watch of Japan, Frederique Constant excels at complications in an affordable and reasonable manner, and now it has added the Regatta Countdown Chronograph to its repertoire. Unlike many yachting watches that are often over-designed with nautical details – think pennants and lots of colours – Frederique Constant has kept its regatta chronograph clean. Priced a bit over US$3000, the Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown has two key elements: central chronograph seconds hand and five circular apertures lined up under 12 o’clock. The apertures function as a 5- or 10-minute regatta countdown timer; this records the time just before the start of a race when yachts position themselves for the best spot at the starting line. When the chronograph is inactive, the apertures show white discs. Once started with the pusher at two o’clock, the apertures turn blue one by one, with each aperture representing one elapsed minute. After five minutes, and five blue apertures, the five-minute countdown to the race begins. The apertures progressively change from showing blue to orange, again at the rate of one a minute. The dials – blue or silver – are straightforward, apart from the countdown windows, and decorated with a hobnail guilloche. Luminous hands match the luminous baton hour markers. Rated to 100m, the case is steel (or gold-plated steel), and 42mm in diameter. Notably, it’s fitted with an upscale, “box-type” sapphire crystal that has ...
Time+Tide
It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now?
Editor’s note: The dust has well and truly settled on this year’s watch releases, and they’re starting to filter out into the world and onto wrists. This is as true with Tudor as it is with anyone else. Though we haven’t seen any P01 watches out in the wild yet, we thought the timing was … ContinuedThe post It’s 6 months on, how are we feeling about Tudor’s 2019 releases now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Quartz: Past, Present, But No Future? – Reprise
Nothing can stir up the watch world these days quite as much the launch of a new Apple watch. For some it's a must-have gadget, for others it just isn't a real watch. But perhaps quartz watches face more competition from smartwatches than mechanical watches. Does quartz even have a real future?
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 1960s Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002, An Abercrombie & Fitch Solunar, And An Omega Chronostop
Your weekly dose of vintage watch finds from around the web has arrived.
SJX Watches
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Reveals 2019 Finalists
The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is at its starting block: 84 watches have been shortlisted across 14 categories, all vying for one of the year’s awards. This year’s categories include the usual like Men’s Complication, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, and Challenge (for adorable watches under 4,000 Swiss francs), but also grows to encompass two new categories, Divers and Iconic. But the top prize of the evening remains the Aiguille d’Or, or “golden hand”, which is the best of show. Given the number of independent brands that found success at the 2018 contest – of the 16 prizes, nine were awarded to independents, with Bovet scooping the Aiguille d’Or – the watches in contention this year include a broad spectrum of independent watchmaking, from establishment names like MB&F; to newcomers like Alchemists. The 30-member jury, composed of the industry notables like auctioneer Aurel Bacs, watchmaker Philippe Dufour, Jack Forster of Hodinkee, and also our founder Jiaxian Su, will meet to evaluate the watches and cast their vote by secret ballot in the week before the prize ceremony in November. At end September, the watches will soon go on a world tour, prior to the awards ceremony on November 7 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. (The tour calendar is at the end of the article.) Here’s the finalists, by category: Ladies (From left to right, top to bottom) 1. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds 2. Chanel J12 Calibre 12....
Time+Tide
Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775)
Editor’s note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models - but it’s hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains … Not a Radiomir to be seen this … ContinuedThe post Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition
Unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition celebrates the Swiss watch brand’s illustrious 31-year relationship with Italy’s most storied road rally. Inspired by not just the event itself, but the classic automobiles that compete in the famous rally, the 2019 Race Edition represents the passion that Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele … ContinuedThe post Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer
We take an in-depth look at the new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer, which was revealed in the Time to Move 2019 event in Biel.
Deployant
New fashion watches: Fossil Georgia Mini and Fossil Defender
Fossil releases two watches in very limited edition, 5 of one and 6 of the other, from their archival series: New - The Fossil Georgia Mini and Defender.
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Artist Wes Lang's Monthly Watch Column In GQ
It's not often I come across someone with this much width of knowledge about watches ... that isn't a watchmaker.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5
Apple’s introduction of its latest watch includes the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, essentially the smartwatch plus an Hermes leather strap and watch faces exclusive to the Hermes edition. Amongst other incremental improvements, the new Apple Watch has an “always-on” face that dims when you turn away, instead of going dark as on the previous generation of the watch – and it’s achieved without comprising the 18-hour battery life. And the standard Series 5 is also available in a variety of case materials, including the usual steel or aluminium, as well as ceramic for the more upscale versions. For the first time, brushed titanium is also a case option. The Single Tour strap with the Della Cavalleria motif on the lower half of the strap The luxury of Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, on the other hand, is dictated only in two case styles: Space Black and polished steel, each in either 40mm or 44mm sizes. The 40mm cases are available either with a standard length, “Single Tour” strap, or an extra-long “Double Tour” strap. Both styles of straps are a combination of colours – a solid shade and a printed motif taken from the Hermes “Della Cavalleria” scarf. Double Tour The Space Black is actually a steel with a black coating, and it’s matched with a sleek, all-black dial and matte black strap for a sleek look that is very much unlike the usual smartwatch. Price and availability The Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 with Single Tour strap is priced at ...
SJX Watches
Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age
Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...
Quill & Pad
Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One!
What does it feel like to eject from a jet fighter? Imagine yourself motoring down the autobahn in a convertible doing 600 miles per hour. Now stand up. Chris Malburg talks with owners of Bremont’s most exclusive timepiece – the MB1 – and their jet fighter ejection experiences qualifying them to wear this one-of-a-kind watch.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Vintage style done right, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph
Broadly speaking, heritage-inspired watches fall into two significant camps - faithful reissues or modern interpretations. The Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph falls very much into the former camp. And, as far as faithful reissues go, it’s awesome. The big picture is the case, which is a hefty, hunky cushion - bonus points for the smart mix … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Vintage style done right, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monaco “The Hour Glass” – The Dark Lord Revived
The latest anniversary edition for Singapore’s largest watch retailer has just dropped: the Monaco “The Hour Glass” is derived from the Monaco Calibre 11 launched at Baselworld 2015. But it combines the style of the 1970s with a modern twist, mixing a high-contrast, all-black case paired with a beige dial and red accents. Think of it as a modern take on the desirable Monaco “Dark Lord”. Unapologetically square Designed by Jack Heuer and named after the Formula 1 race on the principality, the Monaco was powered by the one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic cal. 11. But its true claim to fame is Steve McQueen, who wore one in Le Mans, making the original Monaco ref. 1133B with its distinctive blue dial something of an icon. Steven McQueen in Le Mans More crucially, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square watch when it was launched on March 3, 1969. This was achieved with the use of a one-piece inner case – essentially a square capsule containing the movement and dial – secured to the outer case with a notched system that created a tension seal. It was produced by Ervin Piquerez, a case maker best known for its “Super Compressor” dive watch cases, which received a patent for its landmark, square invention. The unusual Monaco case as illustrated by a “Dark Lord” – outer case in black PVD, and inner case in brushed steel And inside the case sat the Chronomatic cal. 11, a movement that was one of three ...
Deployant
New: A. Lange & Söhne The LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE “25th Anniversary”
The ninth of ten new Lange 1 for this year celebrating the 25th Anniversary is the LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE “25th Anniversary”. Details here.
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 The Hour Glass Edition
TAG Heuer adds to the list of watches created to celebrate the 40th anniversary of renowned Singapore retailer with the Monaco Calibre 11 The Hour Glass Edition.
SJX Watches
Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake
Produced in the 1980s, the Raketa Kopernik was a nod to the Soviet Union’s space exploration, a Soviet Moon watch of sorts. The hour hand took the form of a golden disc, representing the Sun, while the minute hand was the Moon, taking the form of a large ring. Once an hour the Sun and Moon hands would overlap for an eclipse on the wrist. Named after Nicolaus Copernicus, the Kopernik was imaginatively designed but a typical Soviet-era timepiece in terms of quality. Now Raketa has recreated the original design as the Copernicus wristwatch, which is still made in Russia but boasting upgraded fit and finish. The rocket factory Raketa is Russian for “rocket”, and it is a brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St Petersburg. Founded in 1721 as a stoneware manufacturer, the factory has produced watches since the second world war. Now run by its owners – an Englishman and a Frenchman – Raketa produces has a vertically integrated factory as well as an online store. The Raketa Copernicus has an abstract dial with the Sun and Moon hands against an off-centred sphere that represents the Earth. And it has a graduated colour that goes from dark blue to black, evoking the darkness of outer space. The Copernicus has a steel case – either black-coated or polished – that’s 40.5mm in diameter and a thick 12mm high. It’s fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass on the back. Inside is the cal. 2615 automatic movement that is derived from a Sovie...