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Monochrome
TAG Heuer‘s relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara, founder of Fragment Design and a pioneer of Tokyo street culture, has become one of the most stylistically consistent collaborations in contemporary watchmaking. Their first joint venture in 2018 distilled the vintage Carrera into its purest form; the second, in 2020, reinterpreted the 1970s Autavia through a graphic, bolder […]
Monochrome
Founded in 1934 by Raymond Dodane, Lebois & Co. built its reputation during the golden age of mechanical watchmaking, crafting elegant, precision-driven chronographs. After decades of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2016 by a Dutchman, Tom van Wijlick, with a clear mission: to honour its heritage through nicely executed timepieces inspired by its vintage […]
Fratello
I’m in the market for a go-anywhere, do-anything watch. My search begins with a set budget of between €4,000 and €5,000 and a list of must-have features, including a GMT function, a depth rating of at least 100 meters, and an automatic movement. Apart from a measurable amount of money and spec list, there are […] Visit I Ask AI To Find Me A New Watch: Will It Be The Same Watch I Picked Myself? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Albishorn is a young brand with a rather peculiar concept. Created by Sebastien Chaulmontet, ex-La Joux-Perret, in charge of the revival of Arnold & Son and Angelus, and now serving as the Head of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita Watch Co SA and Manufacture AMT, the brand launched with a rather cool idea: imaginary vintage. […]
Worn & Wound
Albishorn is a brand based on one of the most tantalizing concepts that we’ve come across: vintage watches that never existed. I’ve thought about this conceit quite a bit since the brand was launched a few years ago. In some ways, it’s not so different on the surface from any other “vintage inspired” watch. The vast majority of them, after all, never existed. The Black Bay, for instance, takes inspiration from a great many vintage Tudor and Rolex watches, but it’s not a one to one recreation of anything – it never actually existed. But Albishorn is different. They place their watches in an imagined reality. Each one is its own “sliding doors” moment brought to life in watch form – a thought experiment about how things might be if they had turned out just a little differently. The Type 10 is pitched as an imaginary ancestry to the Type 20, a very real watch that just about everyone reading this will be at least somewhat familiar with. Imagining a predecessor to the Type 20 also means imagining the infrastructure to create it, the timeline on which it would have been made, and even design details that might have been improved or altered in the later (and real) watch. Today, Albishorn releases a new variant of the Type 10, which they’re calling the Type 10 Officer. Like previous Type 10s, this is a monopusher chronograph designed in the language of military issued watches. This one has a white dial, which the brand explains makes more sense for an Of...
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Time+Tide
Co-designed by a group of Aussie watch enthusiasts, this Carrera Glassbox Australian Limited Edition melds cues from two iconic vintage Heuers.The post How the Australian watch community helped create the TAG Heuer purist’s ultimate Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The confluence of watchmaking and cinematic history was the perfect recipe for a record, as the F.P. Journe market shows no sign of slowing.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko Bell-Matic 4006-6010 Starting this week off with a solid vintage Seiko Bell-Matic alarm watch. The steel case is nice, unpolished with sharp edges. The silver dial has a cool linen texture that gives it a great vintage look. Applied, raised steel markers with dauphine hands and the classic Seiko day/date window at three complete the look. Overall this is a clean example of a Bell-Matic. The only bummer is that it doesn’t come on the original bracelet. However, slap a nice leather or croc strap on this and you’ll have a gem! No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Looking for a nice treat for yourself for the holidays? Check out this sweet vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. The DeVille is Omega’s dress watch version of their iconic Seamaster line, and this example would be from the 1960s. The slim yellow gold filled case is superb and unpolished. You can still see the subtle chamfers on the delicate lugs. The classic Omega silver dial is super clean, with slim stick markers and stick hands. There is an applied gold Omega symbol and name at twelve. The Omega signed crown is correct and original. T...
Teddy Baldassarre
While it’s all fine and dandy to get into the weeds of watches with the most complications, the most intricate hand-finished details, or precious metal construction, sometimes, you’re just looking for a watch that can take a beating. With that theme in mind, I’ve rounded up some of the most durable watches on the market today that you can wear confidently on your next adventure without fear of your wrist companion wimping out on you. I can’t, obviously, include every single durable watch out there, but down below, I’ve gathered durable watches with a great range of utility, style, and price point to get you started. And away we go… [toc-section heading="G-SHOCK Mudmaster Master of G-Land"] Case: 52.1mm Material: Resin and Steel Water Resistance: 200 meters Movement: Quartz Price: $880 I find it helpful on lists like this to begin with the most obvious. G-SHOCK is always the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about durable watches. I mean, the brand was created entirely with toughness in mind. Several pieces and sub-collections in the G-SHOCK universe would fit the bill, but I’m going to go with its Mudmaster line here. Another one to consider is the GX56BB-1, which has gotten the nickname “The King Of G-SHOCKs” and is shock-resistant from every angle. Made with mud-resistance and shock-resistance in mind, the Mudmaster Master Of G-Land collection is G-SHOCK’s most tactical line. If you plan on navigating the most extreme of terrains, this i...
Monochrome
Zenith continues to evolve its high-frequency El Primero chronograph platform with two new references that combine the brand’s core technical identity with a sharper, more architectural use of colour. The Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions mark the next phase of the Chroma concept, introduced in 2022 with the Defy 21 Chroma and followed by the […]
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Monochrome
Launched in 2022, Zenith’s Defy collection bridges the past and future in one fell swoop. The name dates to 1902 and refers to a line of robust pocket watches known as Defi. Following the launch of Zenith’s world-first high-frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement, the Defy name was resuscitated for a line of hyper-robust, bulky […]
Monochrome
One of the rising stars of independent watchmaking, Felipe Pikullik’s career began in Glashütte, where he worked with renowned watchmakers, including Kudoke and Rolf Lang. In 2017, at the age of 23, he launched his own brand in Berlin. Since then, Felipe Pikullik has been widely recognised as a master of decoration, elevating venerable Unitas […]
SJX Watches
One of Tudor’s most affordable models equipped with an in-house movement (the base model costs under CHF3,000), the Ranger is functional watch with a design based on the 1960s model of the same name. Originally available only with a 39 mm case and black dial, the Ranger is now also available in a 36 mm that’s truer to the vintage original. Also new is the unusual “dune white” dial. The pale dial with black markings is a subtle reference to historical sports models with similar dials often nicknamed “albino” by collectors. Initial thoughts The larger Ranger was facelifted in 2022, and though good value, it was a little chunky for the style. And the black dial was traditional, but also a bit plain. The smaller size and beige dial add a bit more vintage flair to the model, which should resonate in particular for those who appreciate such things. The tweaks to the model won’t likely make it a watch with mainstream appeal like the Black Bay, but the Ranger remains a strong proposition at its price. An explorer’s watch The vintage Ranger was Tudor’s equivalent of the Rolex Explorer, and hence shares a similar design. This style has been ported over onto the modern remake. The new “dune white” retains the same style, but with adjustments for the colour. So the hour markers are printed in black, with the luminous markers being dots on the edge of the dial instead. The rest of the watch remains unchanged, except for the size. The steel case is entirely brushed...
Time+Tide
It might be 11 years old at this point, but this rounded square chronograph continues to be distinctive in a crowded market. The post Why the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date continues to stand out from the crowd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking loves a good origin story, and Vanguart has got one. Founded in 2017 by APRP alumni Axel Leuenberger and Jérémy Freléchox, designer Thierry Fischer and F1-insider Mehmet Korutürk, the brand debuted with the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. That first watch featured a levitating flying tourbillon, concentric automaton discs that warp time around […]
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Fratello
Talk about releases you didn’t see coming! When Zenith released the third model of the much-praised Lupin the Third series in early 2022, it looked like the remarkable trilogy was complete and the series had concluded. But more than three years later, Zenith surprises us with a fourth model! The new Zenith Chronomaster Revival Daisuke […] Visit Zenith Continues Its Lupin The 3rd Series With The Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko 6138-0049 Starting off this week with a bang, or rather a bull…head! This vintage Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead chronograph is a real beauty. The massive steel case is excellent, unpolished with sharp edges and the original polished/brushed finish. The brown dial looks to be in superb condition, with no black funk on the lume or hands. The tachymeter bezel is equally superb. The watch comes on the correct and original fishbone steel bezel, which is always a plus. Seems like this is coming from the original owner, as it includes the original sales receipt. Sadly, no box or papers. However, the watch runs and functions as per the seller. Great opportunity for a really well preserved example of an awesome vintage Seiko chronograph. View auction here Vintage Aquadive Here’s a nice vintage Aquadive diver from probably the 1970s. The 36.5mm case is chrome plated with a steel back, and the plating is in really solid shape. The edges are nice and crisp as well. The dial is a really cool one, black and gray bullseye style with white painted hour markers and lume filled white baton hands. The orange seconds hand has a classic lume filled lollipop tip for easy reading. The aluminum elapsed ...
Time+Tide
Swedish microbrand Atelier Nossedh's first release, the AN.01 picks up where 1940s chronograph designs left off.The post Atelier Nossedh’s AN.01 is a tasty (Tondi) vintage-inspired chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The De Bethune Kind of Two concept, a pivoting, double-faced case that literally gives you two watches in one, has proven to be one of the brand´s most successful design experiments. The 2021 DB Kind of Two Tourbillon and the 2022 DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT established the format as both an engineering exercise […]
Fratello
One of the best surprises of this year was the release of the RZE UTD-8000 series. With it, RZE demonstrated that small brands can indeed enter the digital-watch market traditionally dominated by prominent, established names. More importantly, the young Singaporean brand demonstrated that was is possible to offer a series of digital watches that remain […] Visit Hands-On With The Brilliant New Cerakote RZE UTD-8000-CKG to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Tudor just released a watch that fans have been clamoring for and perhaps manifesting since at least 2022. That’s the year Tudor released a new 39mm Ranger to a great deal of fanfare and also a great deal of “Well, this would be even better if it was just a little smaller.” To be fair, that 39mm Ranger was perceived by most as an improvement over the 41mm Ranger, introduced in 2014 during an era when the enthusiast voice demanding vintage inspired watches match actual vintage proportions was much quieter. Now, with a new Ranger in 36mm, it feels like it’s finally back to the correct size. What’s more, Tudor has taken this as an opportunity to release the Ranger in a new dial color. The “Dune” colorway is a really appealing, creamy off-white with contrasting black indices and Arabic numerals. The hands match the color of the dial but have been given a black outline to improve legibility, which looks great. The key difference between the black dial (also available in a 36mm size and unchanged in layout from the larger version) is that the Dune dial does not have lumed numerals, but small lume plots next to each numeral. The case, of course, is smaller, but the general design and proportions do not appear to have changed. It’s dominated by a brushed finish which bolsters the tool watch roots of the Ranger, and has a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The Ranger runs on the COSC certified MT5400 automatic movement, which has 70 hours of power reserve on...
Monochrome
We have exciting news from the United States, and it has nothing to do with the Trump Administration’s Swiss watch import tariffs or their recent reduction. Avoirdupois, a New York City-based brand founded in 2017 by designer/engineer James Stumpf, has expanded its product mix beyond retro-styled furniture and lighting products to include watches. Designed and […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A personal review of the Doxa Sub 300 Black Lung, blending vintage heritage, modern reliability, and nearly a decade of wrist time.
SJX Watches
The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment. The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds. The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wr...
Worn & Wound
Straum has teamed up with The Real Time Show, the watch podcast founded by Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nudds back in 2022, on a new limited edition version of the brand’s popular Jan Mayen sports watch. The new Straum x TRTS Jan Mayen Titanium Stormy Seas complements other editions of the watch well in that it fits in nicely with Straum’s dedication to exploration and adventure, something the brand founders spoke about at length on our own podcast last year. The new dial variant seen here was inspired directly by an experience Rob had during the 2022 Straum Explorers Club expedition to Jan Mayen, a Norwegian volcanic island that is key to the brand’s story and the genesis for much of its design direction. The dark blue tone is meant to evoke, as the name suggests, a stormy sea. Using blue to represent the ocean on a sports watch is of course not a new concept. If anything, it’s been done to the point where it’s tough to see a blue dial and think of anything but the ocean. Usually, however, it’s done in the service of aspiration. This is an intimidating, ominous blue that would have most level headed people backing away from the ocean and heading to the shore. It communicates something about the brand that Straum would choose to embrace this particular vision of adventure. The deeply textured dial is complemented by a bright orange seconds hand, a color taken from immersion survival suits used in emergencies at sea. Applied and lume filled hour markers circle the ...
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