Deployant
New: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT
Greubel Forsey celebrates their 20th annniversary with the presentation of their 10th Fundamental Invention: the Nano Foudroyante EWT.
Results for Above the Date Window
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SJX Watches
Hands On: Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch
A storied example of artisanal independent watchmaking, The Oval was the masterpiece by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), perhaps the greatest unknown watchmaker. Pratt began work on the Oval in 1982 as his magnum opus, the ultimate realisation of his aesthetic and technical vision. While his work for Urban Jürgensen is perhaps his best known, Pratt was an independent watchmaker with a diverse repertoire, including working with George Daniels on the co-axial escapement. Amongst his creations was a replica of John Harrison’s H4 marine chronometer. These projects, as well as the fact that the Oval was mostly hand made, meant the pocket watch took some two decades to complete. Although it’s a sizeable watch, the Oval is finely detailed, reflecting the high level of Pratt’s craft and the years he invested in creating the watch from scratch. Beyond its artisanal execution, the Oval also stands out for its technical achievement. Besides a detent escapement, the Oval also contains a horological first – a constant force mechanism integrated within the tourbillon – along with a thermometer, power reserve display, and moon phase on the dial. We took an in-depth look at the Oval in 2021, thanks to its current owner, Dr Helmut Crott. But now as the Oval heads to the auction block at Phillips, it’s worth one last look before it disappears into a collection. A two-decade odyssey A contemporary and friend of George Daniels (1926-2011), Pratt was one of the most talented horologists o...
Fratello
Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel
In 2021, Farer introduced its Field Collection. It consisted of three watches, all with the same compact stainless steel case but rather diverse yet colorful dial designs. The common denominator was that they were all inspired by field watches. Now the British-based brand has reintroduced its Field Collection. The Pembroke II, Lomond II, and Exmoor […] Visit Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Breaking News: Patek Philippe's Ref. 5711 Nautilus Is Back As A Unique Piece For Charity
The hand-engraved reference 5711/1500A will be sold on November 25, 2024, to benefit Children Action.
Fratello
David Scott’s Speedmaster Professional “Tribute to Astronauts” BA145.022-69
The Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69, also known as the “Tribute to Astronauts” watch, was the first Speedmaster in 18K yellow gold and intended for all active NASA astronauts, the US president and vice president, and several officials. In total, Omega gifted 31 of these watches to the NASA astronauts, most of them during the official […] Visit David Scott’s Speedmaster Professional “Tribute to Astronauts” BA145.022-69 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Unveils Freak X with Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Ulysse Nardin’s entry-level Freak has been dressed up with a flinque enamel dial in a limited edition for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East’s most prominent luxury watch retailer. The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi features a “Yas Blue” guilloché enamel dial with the signature carousel carrying an oversized oscillator and silicon escapement that acts as a minute hand. Initial thoughts The Freak X is a descendent of the original Freak, but simplified for user-friendliness and affordability. The Seddiqi edition combines the appeal of the Freak X with an artisan ally decorated dial – a combination of contrasts that are complementary. While the enamel might seem contrary to the high-tech nature of the Freak X, it complements the aesthetics of the watch. The striking, translucent enamel forms a pleasing backdrop for the carousel. Priced at AED154,000 or around US$42,000, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is a little more expensive than the base model Freak X, but still amongst the most affordable Freak models. Inversed calibre In 2001, Ulysse Nardin revolutionised watchmaking the Freak, a watch that reimagined the conventions of movement construction with an unprecedented design that relocated the going train and oscillator to double as the minute hand. And the watch was the first-ever application of silicon in watchmaking. The Freak X has the trademark carousel minute hand, but features a convenient automatic movement and crown, eliminating the need to wind the watch every f...
Monochrome
Industry News – Vacheron Constantin Launches its Certified Pre-Owned Programme
Certified Pre-Owned, also known as CPO, has gained great traction over the past few years, with more and more brands exploring the concept. The second-hand market for watches is growing steadily, with a current value in the region of CHF 20 billion and consulting firm Deloitte saying it could be worth CHF 35 billion by 2030. […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we take on another listener-suggested topic and discuss passing down our watch collections or what might happen to our watches as we age. We’re hopefully not near that time, but it’s a subject worth discussing. For our listeners, the watch talk begins at approximately 17 […] Visit Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir
Louis Erard, in a move that I think many who follow the brand will view as somewhat surprising, announced a new watch last week along with the news that their longstanding Excellence collection, which has been the home to many of the collaborative limited editions that have propelled the brand to a new level of notoriety over the past several years, is being replaced. Those watches now fall under a new banner, the Noirmont collection. This collection, in turn, is split up into three distinct subgroups, including the standalone “Noirmont,” “Noirmont X,” which would appear to be where you’ll find Louis Erard’s collaborations going forward, and “Noirmont Métiers d’Art.” This final line is where the brand’s latest release sits, the Régulateur Gravé Noir, which sees Louis Erard applying some traditional finishing techniques and vintage inspiration to a watch that has become a signature for them. To give you a sense of the other watches in the Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, this is where you’ll find the recent Petite Seconde guilloche pieces, as well as their newer regulator with an enamel dial. The new Régulateur Gravé Noir (we’ll just call it the Gravé from here on out) is, as Louis Erard puts it, a new spin on the classic sector dial. The regulator format, it would seem, would be a natural choice to experiment with the sector layout, and in fact you could argue that just about any execution of a regulator is going to have some sector dial ...
Hodinkee
Reading Time At HSNY: Our Original Library
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
SJX Watches
A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity
Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 “Third Series” Black Dial, Breguet Numerals
Sotheby’s upcoming Geneva auction includes Treasures of Time, a small but impressive collection of watches consigned by a European gentleman of evidently sophisticated taste. While the most valuable of the 31 lots in the collection is a first-series ref. 2499 in pink gold, the most striking watch is arguably this Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series with a glossy black dial featuring Breguet numerals. Only six examples of the ref. 2499 are known to have a black dial, and this is one of them. The black dial with Breguet numerals gives the watch tremendous appeal and presence on the wrist. Beautiful as it is, however, this ref. 2499 is not absolute perfect from a historical perspective as the black dial was added long after the watch was made. The watch was originally sold by Patek Philippe in 1964, probably with the typical silver dial, and it gained this black dial sometime in the 1980s. According to its well documented history, the owner of the watch in the 1980s was an important enough collector that when he asked for a black dial with Breguet numerals, Patek Philippe said yes. The dial was thus produced by Stern Frères and installed in the watch. It’s worth noting that most of the six known ref. 2499s with a black dial have a similar history in that the black dials were subsequent additions. Though it’s clearly not a vintage dial, Stern Frères executed it well. The dial is finished with a glossy black lacquer and gold powder print, while the indices are applie...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype
One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch. The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time. The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration. “Prototype” Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial met...
Teddy Baldassarre
Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Review
I enjoy a good retro-revival, but I especially love it when it’s a super-niche piece like the Girard-Perregaux Casquette. First introduced back in the 1970s, the very cool Casquette was brought back in 2022 in the form of the Casquette 2.0. According to GP, something like 8,000 examples of the original Casquette were produced between 1976 and 1978. That unique driver-style case with LED display was basically unchanged for the 2.0, which came in a slick, black ceramic case. Now, we see the release of a new Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold, which I was able to get my hands on and spend some time with. Luxury digital watches are few and far between but I have to say, there is nothing like the Casquette out there. As someone who has seen and handled just about every watch out there, I personally would rather plunk down just shy of five grand on this digital watch over many, many mechanical pieces in that price range. Where the inaugural Casquette 2.0 was done in a black ceramic and bracelet, this new iteration opts for a Grade 5 titanium case with yellow-gold GP logo and pushers and a matching titanium bracelet with rubber lining. It is absolutely insane to see this level of quality and finishing on an LED-display watch, but it sparks so much joy in my heart to see a brand have the guts to do so. The case dimensions are spot-on for a piece that needs some wrist presence to properly convey its vibes. The sleek, angular case measures 42.4mm tall and 33.6mm wi...
Deployant
New: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Sincere continues its march to celebrate the 70th Anniversary with Chopard with a 10 piece limited edition L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Press release information with commentary in italics. New: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition will retail at SGD 76,800 (including GST).Read More
SJX Watches
Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity
Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education. Initial thoughts The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent. This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions. An artful dial The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one o...
Monochrome
Buying Guide – A Selection of Bold, Modern and High-End Openworked Watches
Lovers of complex mechanical watchmaking can rejoice with this week’s Buying Guide selection, as all of the watches on show come with openworked dials and movements. Not content with the most classical styles of skeletonization, we’ve opted for a range of contemporary and bold watches instead. On top of that, they reveal their most intricate […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Tudor PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time”
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT "Zulu Time" has been a significant addition to the brand's lineup, offering a blend of robust functionality and a design that pays homage to its military heritage. The watch is a result of Tudor's collaboration with the French Naval Aviation, designed to meet the rigorous demands of naval pilots.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Latest Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition
The Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition combines rugged functionality with a distinctive design, featuring a dial inspired by the Australian landscape! What We Love: The polished finishing of the case and bezel The red dial has many different layers to it with different patterns and finishing techniques. Great value for money, especially with the increase in power reserve with 6R35 movement and open case back. What We Don’t: The leather strap can be a bit stiff initially Lack of a steel bracelet option for the watch Cyclops date window could be slightly larger to allow for better viewing angles. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Seiko Alpinist is a timepiece that has gained global recognition for meeting the needs of adventurers. The timepiece has long held a special place in Seiko’s lineup, and it is well known for meeting the needs of mountain climbers and outdoor sports enthusiasts. The Seiko Alpinist was first introduced in 1959, and back then, it was the brand’s first attempt at creating a timepiece specifically designed for mountaineers. During the 1960s and 70s, Japan’s hiking culture was thriving. So Seiko responded by creating a beautiful timepiece that considered what an adventurer’s watch would entail. The timepiece was designed to endure the harsh conditions while still being stylistic! The first Seiko Alpinist released in 1959 was named Laurel Alpinist. The very fi...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the Rolex Milgauss, the oddball engineer’s watch that first came out in the 1950s, just like many of The Crown’s classics. But unlike the Submariner and the GMT-Master, the Milgauss hasn’t always been part of the brand’s collection since then. It’s part of the reason we […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces a Commemorative Carrera Tourbillon in Tribute to Ayrton Senna
TAG Heuer is introducing a third generation of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in collaboration with the Senna brand, a commemorative company dedicated to the late Ayrton Senna’s legendary career as three time Grand Prix world champion. Senna’s racing legacy is intertwined with the watch world and has always conjured images of the TAG Heuer 6000 Senna Limited Edition in the minds of collectors. This was the very first watch that Ayrton produced together with TAG Heuer, and he was still with us at the beginning of its conception to have a say in its design. In 2018 TAG Heuer released the first Carrera chronograph tourbillon editions, followed by another iteration in 2019. While many of us are quite fond of the original designs that feature a very distinct era specific aesthetic, such as small case sizes with heavily rounded edges, these new models are extremely modern in contrast. Launching today is the reference CBU5081.FT6274 – a serious chronograph watch with a grade 2 titanium case, ceramic tachymeter bezel that can measure up to 400 kmh, and a display of TAG Heuer watchmaking prowess in the form of a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It doesn’t get much more contemporary sporty than a watch like this, using cutting edge materials and high horology watchmaking techniques such as its fully skeletonized dial and the tourbillon itself. The yellow, blue, and green accents each have their spot around the dial of the watch, aiding in reading the elapsed time of the ch...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time
Created in collaboration with the aviators of Aéronautique Navale, the air branch of the French navy, the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time is Tudor’s latest wristwatch developed for a militaruunit. A sibling of Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” issued to French navy divers, the Pelagos GMT Zulu Time is housed in a titanium Pelagos case with fixed lug bars (hence “FXD”). Featuring a ceramic bezel with a luminescent 24-hour scale, the Pelagos GMT adds the long-awaited second time zone function to the Pelagos line of professional-spec dive watches. It sports a bright orange GMT hand along with faux-vintage, vanilla-tone block markers and “snowflake” hands. Initial thoughts Tudor was a historical supplier of watches to the French navy starting in the 1950s, a relationship that was revived in 2021 with the Pelagos FXD. The Pelagos GMT continues the partnership, but pivots to address the needs of naval pilots instead of divers. This also makes it more useful for civilians, since a dual time zone function is more practical for most than a deep-sea diver’s watch. At 42 mm in diameter, however, the Pelagos GMT is one of Tudor’s larger watches, which means it probably isn’t as handy for traveling as the compact Black Bay 58 GMT that’s just 39 mm. Still, the titanium case helps with lightness, and the large size suits the military design. In typical Tudor fashion, the Pelagos GMT is an excellent value proposition. For US$4,625, you get a titanium case with ceramic bezel,...
Hodinkee
Video: Talking Universal Genève With Collector Alessandro Fanciulli
Digging through Universal Genève's incredibly varied history with the Italian dealer and collector.
Fratello
#TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse
It’s safe to say that 1969 was a strong year on all fronts, including for the watch industry. If the Moon landing is not enough, think of the first automatic chronograph conquering wrists or quartz watches waving their hands to them with a sneer of the coming revolution. That was the general context when Swiss […] Visit #TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse to read the full article.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Collecting Porsche Design With Andres Nicholls
We speak with a designer and architect about the enduring appeal of Porsche Design.
Deployant
New: Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition
Seiko releases a collaboration with premium denim brand Dehham, The novelty is based on the SKX series, and is limited to 2000 pieces
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna with Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
Legendary Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was a longtime TAG Heuer ambassador up until his death in 1994. On the 30th anniversary of his passing, the Brazilian driver is coming back to the fore with TAG Heuer unveiling the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna just in time for the premiere of the Netflix series Senna. Based on the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, the Senna edition is presented in titanium, carbon composite, and the colours of the Brazilian flag. It bears the driver’s emblem on the carbon composite and hour register at nine, while the case back depicts a helmeted Senna. Senna himself frequently wore the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25.706C multi-function, which will also be seen in the upcoming television series Initial thoughts TAG Heuer is in some ways an underdog – because of its many affordable offerings, its higher-end models sometimes don’t get enough attention. The Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, for instance, is a vintage-inspired but original design that’s appealing and powered by an in-house movement. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is an integrated chronograph with automatic winding, plus a flying tourbillon, albeit an industrial movement. The big and bold styling isn’t the retro-inspired design that Heuer enthusiasts appreciate, but the Senna edition is executed well and priced right. Personally speaking, the Senna edition is not my style - there are too Senna elements in the design, unlike the low-key regular-production version. However...
Quill & Pad
Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle Champagne: House Heritage and Tasting Notes
When one of the world’s leading wine critics names a non-vintage champagne as their Wine of the Year (not just Champagne of the Year), then it is worth a look, especially in competition with 36,000 other wines. The wine is Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle No 26.
Fratello
Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More
What better way to celebrate the dark day of Halloween than with some scary wristwear? I’m not talking about electrified watches that’ll zap you in the night, but it could mean some newfound color for your watch box. In fact, some Halloween watches are cool all year round. This year, I have found great examples, […] Visit Halloween Watches: Be Afraid, Very Afraid This Year! - Ghoulish Wristwear From Bell & Ross, Mr Jones, Scurfa, And More to read the full article.