Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Unveiled
A looks at the new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT with detailed specs, photos, and pricing. Check out this new non-limited military-inspire watch.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Deployant
Universal Genève unveils its new website
Universal Genève introduces a new website and social media channels, revealing the identity under new ownership. Release information with commentary.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Alfred Helwig’s Flying Tourbillon in Wrist- and Pocket Watches
The flying tourbillon marks the beginning of my career as a watch dealer and collector. In the mid-1970s, I met a former fellow pupil of mine, Richard Miklosch, in a little antique shop in my hometown of Aachen. At the time, I was unaware that Miklosch (1939-2014), originally a technical schoolteacher, had become a highly sought-after watchmaker specialising in pocket watch tourbillons (Fig. 1) – to his great credit being entirely self-taught in the field [1, p. 198][1, pp. 374-377][2, p. 140][3, p. 40]. That is how Theodor Beyer, who ran Chronometrie Beyer and Beyer Uhrenmuseum in Zürich, came to have a Miklosch tourbillon, as well as a George Daniels tourbillon, in his collection. I told him about my growing fascination for watches and my plans to start organising auctions specialised in this field. Miklosch looked at me sympathetically, and, pulling a watch out of his pocket he said: “This is one of the best precision timepieces ever made”. Although I had only rudimentary knowledge of the subject at the time, I was immediately struck by the visual aesthetics of the movement. It was one of the flying tourbillons from the famous Glashütte School; to be precise the 1930-1931 tourbillon made by Max Hahn marked “School no. 3673” and “Special no. 21”. That was my eureka moment and one that ultimately marked the beginning of my watch career. Some of these iconic watches were to pass through my hands in the following 50 years, or even to find a place in my colle...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we tackle a listener question about pairing watches and straps with our clothing. Do we care or put a lot of thought into what watches we wear with our garb? Stick around to find out more. Watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. This […] Visit Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Bremont Partners with Jimmy Chin on a Pair of Limited Edition Terra Nova Chronographs
Bremont has undergone a drastic brand transformation in the last year or so, moving away from what many would consider their rather reserved British design language to something more daring and youthful. The Terra Nova could really be considered the focal point of this transition, a design nobody was expecting, with its oval cushion case, large stylized Arabic numerals, and sub-dials rivaling the contrast found on some of the most die-hard chronographs on the market. During one of the busiest watch release times of the year, Bremont has quietly unveiled two new variants of the Terra Nova in collaboration with renowned climber, explorer, and photographer Jimmy Chin. One with a full 18ct rose gold case limited to only 15 pieces, and one with rose gold accents limited to 100 pieces. The design of these watches is also inspired by military pocket watches from the 20th century, giving the watch a nostalgic exterior appearance but with the capabilities one would expect from a feature packed tool watch. While I found the Terra Nova Power Reserve to be a rather polarizing design when I had a chance to go hands-on with one earlier this year, I feel that this chronograph version brings a level of organization to the dial and case not found on the other variants – with the full gold and gold accented appearance highlighting these aspects in a positive way. Bremont decided on the BE-50AV caliber to power this watch, which is actually based on the ETA 7750 and heavily modified to...
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review
There are some watches that kind of stay with you. They may not be in your wheelhouse as far as taste is concerned (or at least what you think your taste is), but something about them just resonates. This is how I feel, and have felt, about the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow, a watch that has been in production for some time, one that I have reviewed in the past, and one that I still do not own but which continues to take up valuable real estate in my brain. The version of the watch that I got turned onto was the only one available until recently - a blasted-finish, black-coated titanium chronograph in the retro A384 case format that plays on the past but brings a decidedly modern design sensibility to the overall package. The dial is a matte, flat black and the text on it is well thought-out in terms of the vintage effect, down to the printing of the logos and numerals. It’s as if you’re looking at a museum artifact, except that it's packed with one of the best modern automatic chronograph movements in the game, Zenith's own El Primero, and at 37mm it fits perfectly on my 6.25-inch wrist. If you have been paying attention to Zenith over the past half-decade or so, you are sure to notice that the brand has done quite a job in balancing vintage revivals with innovative new releases. It’s the only brand I know that revives a watch and keeps everything true to form down to the clasp on a bracelet. I recall handling another Shadow model – the Defy Shadow ...
Worn & Wound
Awake Gives Us a Lesson in Creating Watches for Future Generations
The concept of a “mid-life crisis” has long had a negative connotation thanks to the word “crisis” implying a moment of difficulty, but I’d suggest we rethink this as a mid-life turning point. For Lilian Thibault, founder of Awake, this moment came when he reached a certain age and his kids began to grow. He took the opportunity to turn a mid-life crisis into a mid-life reinvention. After years of investing in other successful businesses, he decided to invest in himself and his own passions. Lilian had been an avid watch collector for more than two decades, and in 2018 he set out to create his own brand-Awake was born. “As my kids are growing older, I’ve started to think more and more about the legacy that will be left behind for them,” Lilian told me. “I decided I wanted to bring my own brand to market that reflects the vision I would like to see in the world for the next generation. This is, in fact, why I chose the name ‘Awake,’ I have a mission to awaken people’s attention to beauty and what really matters in life.” Lilian Thibault To bring his vision to life, Lilian launched a Kickstarter to raise funds for production in 2018. The campaign was originally planned to run for a month, but the brand reached its goal of $30,000 within an hour and ended up raising $400,000-Lilian was clearly onto something, and his vision was resonating. A year later, the brand unveiled its first collection aptly named “Origins.” In the spirit of thinking a...
Fratello
Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches
Breitling just unveiled a bunch of new Avenger models. With a handful of new black ceramic Night Mission editions alongside new 46mm titanium and 42mm stainless steel Avenger chronographs, there is plenty to talk about. The Night Mission versions that stand out immediately are the 42mm chronographs with Sand and Turquoise colorways. And what do […] Visit Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume
Germany is the home of many prominent timepiece manufacturers. The most notable city known for watchmaking is Glashütte; however, another city, Pforzheim,, located roughly 560 kilometers away, has its own proud watchmaking history. Brands calling Pforzheim home include Circula, Laco, Limes, Stowa, and others, along with the famous case maker Ickler, whose work supplies numerous watch brands worldwide. Heinrich is a watch brand located in Stuttgart, less than an hour from Pforzheim. This proximity allows brand founder Wolfgang Heinrich to collaborate with skilled watchmakers to develop new sport and dive watches that take inspiration from the 1970s while incorporating a unique twist. Twist barely describes their latest creation, the Taucher Infused Forged Carbon V2. If that sounds like a mouthful, it is, but it is also an eyeful. These watches feature dials and bezel inserts made from colored forged carbon combined with SuperLuminova BGW9. We are not only referring to the indices, minute track, and bezel markings being lumed; instead, we mean that the dial and bezel material itself is integrated with lume. The fusion of materials in each watch is unique, ensuring no two are alike. The 41mm stainless steel case measures 13.6mm to the top of the boxed sapphire crystal, and due to the very short lugs, it has a compact length of 47.8mm from lug tip to lug tip. This watch should fit nearly everyone comfortably. Although it has a 1970s throwback style, this case is 200 meters ...
Quill & Pad
Ball Watch Roadmaster M Model A: Innovative Alarm, GMT, and Lights Up Bright at Night
Ball Watch have stepped up their game with an innovative mechanical alarm watch with second time zone and a manufacture automatic movement plus their trademark super bright tritium tubes that light up the night. This is no chirping cricket!
Fratello
Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore?
Watch brands are on a high-paced treadmill to constantly release new watches. In fact, most brands release several new models every single year. Why? “To remain relevant” is an often-heard explanation. Or it could be to provide a constant stimulus to drive sales. Could this be why most new watches receive lukewarm responses from the […] Visit Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel
Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024
On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss, take you inside Windup Watch Fair New York City 2024. The biggest and best Windup yet, there were over 140 brands in attendance and tens of thousands of guests. Unfortunately, we couldn’t cover everything we saw there, so we focused on talking to six brands new to Windup. This episode was sponsored by Trafford Watch Co and their new Touring GMT. The latest from the Austin-based watchmakers is inspired by the relentless spirit of musicians and their fans. The Touring GMT has independent hour and GMT hands so you can seamlessly track the time in your next venue and back at home. Available in three colorways inspired by American music venues, check out the Touring GMT at Trafford Watch Co The post A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
New Video: Who wore what watch at IamWatch
The independent watchmaking cognoscenti descended onto The Singapore Edition for IamWatch. Here are the watches worn by the movers and shakers.
Quill & Pad
Why a Dive Watch Should Never be Haute Horlogerie
The dive watch can be seen as the off-road car of the watch world. Right after World War II, the world of diving was going through rapid developments. A leap in technology allowed humans to dive longer and deeper and explore a part of our planet we know so little about. But haute horlogerie?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches
Seiko has an enduring lineup of "greatest hits" dive watches-from the rugged Turtle and Tuna to the angular Samurai. Yet with the release of the new Seiko Prospex models (SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485), Seiko introduces an eye-catching design that’s distinctly different from anything we’ve seen in its catalog, while still staying true to its tool-watch roots. I'm still not sure how I feel about these but I like that Seiko took a significant design leap with these new divers.
Quill & Pad
An Owner’s Comparison: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic vs. Rolex Explorer 36
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic and the Rolex Explorer 36 both have automatic movements, three hands, black dials, and 100-meter water resistance. Both they couldn't be more different as Perry Heim explains.
Deployant
New: Blancpain Air Command in camouflage
Blancpain has recently expanded its Air Command collection with the introduction of two new models featuring a camouflage green motif. These timepieces, which draw inspiration from the brand's vintage flyback chronographs, are now presented in a contemporary camouflage green color that complements their military and aviation heritage.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Bulova with Military Provenance, a Glycine in Great Condition, and a Classic LeCoultre Memovox
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard-Perregaux Starting off this week with an absolutely stunning vintage Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk. The 33mm wide stainless steel case looks unpolished with crisp edges. The white dial is a beauty, with nice slim, steel arrow markers that are reminiscent of the classic vintage 1950’s Omega Seamasters. The dial looks original and appears spotless, and is complemented by steel dauphine hands. The crown is original and signed with the GP logo as it should be. There is no movement picture, but the seller states the manual wind movement runs and keeps time. This is a classic looking piece from a premier, yet under-rated vintage watch manufacture. View auction here Vintage Bulova Military What this little guy lacks in size, it makes up for in swag. The vintage Bulova MIL-W-3818A is a classic and well known Vietnam era issued military watch designed for pilots. It has the classic pilots black dial with easy to read lumed Arabic numerals and a 24 hour inner track. The movement is manual wind and hacks for accuracy. The watch looks all original to me, and in fantastic condition. It has the correct military engravings on the back, and the original jumbo crown (for easy winding ...
Quill & Pad
WatchCharts September 2024 Watch Market Update: First Positive Trend Up this Year + Best Green Rolex Submariner
The WatchCharts Overall Market Index saw a positive trend in September, rising 0.8% compared to the previous month. The last time we reported a positive trend was for the month of December 2023, when the market likely saw a boost due to the holiday season.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Tool/Kit: Staying Strong in Iceland with Nick Stirbis and Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme
Iceland is known worldwide for its extreme environments, temperamental weather, and otherworldly scenery. I’ve been lucky enough to experience the Arctic island on two occasions this year, this time accompanied by the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic and Extreme Automatic GMT. As an outdoor adventure-focused photographer, I needed a watch that was bombproof and capable of taking on the elements, from gale-force winds and sideways rain to jagged rocks and freezing temperatures (all of which we experienced on this mission). These rugged watches were particularly well suited for the job. The post Tool/Kit: Staying Strong in Iceland with Nick Stirbis and Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
First Look – ZRC Ressurects Its 1960s Securicode Dive Watch
ZRC (Zuccolo Rochet & Cie) isn’t a household name in the dive community like Rolex, Doxa, Blancpain or Omega (or even Seiko, if we cross a few time zones), but it certainly has a place in history. Responding to the French Navy’s request for deep dive watches in 1958, the brand developed the S1 diver […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M
After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.
Deployant
Four new Lange 1s to celebrate 30 years
Lange released four new limited editions to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Lange 1: Two Lange 1 and two Little Lange 1 models.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: IAMWATCH 2024 – Singapore's Double-Wristed, Resort Casual Dose Of Independent Watchmaking Madness (175+ Photos)
The event brought indies and watch lovers together in a new way. As for the wrists shots, even if you think you’ve seen it all, IAMWATCH will surprise you.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Ming's New 37.02 'Minimalist' Does Something Potentially Groundbreaking – Can You See What It Is?
Without spoiling anything, the watch does something that kind of breaks your brain. Let's see if you can guess what it is.
Deployant
New: Krayon Anywhere Arborea Métiers d’Art
Another superbly beautiful Métiers d’Art dial added to the Krayon Anywhere collection. 15 piece limited edition called Krayon Anywhere Arborea.
Fratello
Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions
Whenever the Norwegian brand Straum unveils something new, we are all ears at Fratello. Most of you will know we love the brand and collaborated on the Fratello × Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition. In a new adventure, brand founders Lasse Roxrud Farstad and Øystein Helle Husby created three special new dials for the much-praised […] Visit Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH
The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367
Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...