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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

The Australian Watch Forum’s first collaboration watch Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2019

The Australian Watch Forum’s first collaboration watch

Editor’s note: The Australian Watch Forum has gone from strength to strength over the last 18 months, tripling its membership to 9000 members. Based on Facebook, their presence has been felt well outside of social media, with regular meet-ups and get-togethers in major cities across Australia. Here’s a throwback to Cam’s nod to their first … ContinuedThe post The Australian Watch Forum’s first collaboration watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? Time+Tide
Aug 10, 2019

Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out?

When a name renowned for its personalisation of higher-end pieces announces an off-the-shelf offering, it tends to raise eyebrows. However, the Bamford brand has defied expectations not once, but twice, now with the Bamford London GMT. Housing the self-winding Sellita SW330-1 25, it has already been widely pointed out that the Bamford GMT case and … ContinuedThe post Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph Time+Tide
Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date Aug 8, 2019

Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph

A few weeks ago we were treated to an evening with Piaget, and their thintastic Altiplano collection. And while we had a bunch of watches in our office, and our excellent photographer Jason Reekie on hand, it would have been a shame not to make the most of it. We’ve already seen what the mighty … ContinuedThe post Slim kings – the Piaget Altiplano 40mm Ultra-Thin Date and the Altiplano Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Seiko 5 is alive – again Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Aug 7, 2019

The Seiko 5 is alive – again

For decades, the Seiko 5 collection has been some of the best-value mechanical watchmaking on the planet. The ability to buy an automatic watch with an in-house movement for only a few hundred dollars must be responsible for introducing tens of thousands of people around the world to watches. You would be hard-pressed to find … ContinuedThe post The Seiko 5 is alive – again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the New Seiko 5 Sports Collection SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Long Aug 7, 2019

Introducing the New Seiko 5 Sports Collection

Long offered in a dizzying range of iterations – all priced extremely affordably – the Seiko 5 Sports collection has, for the longest time, enjoyed stardom in the segment of watches below US$200. The affordability of the range and its core features – automatic winding, day and date, water resistance, a durable case and bracelet, plus the recessed crown at four o’clock – have been a gateway drug for aspiring watch enthusiasts who have never owned a mechanical timepiece. The Seiko 5 Sports line-up has just been streamlined, and now consists of five core variants, each conceived for a specific style of dress. The entire line-up will be made up of 27 specific models. All the watches are essentially “diver-lite”, looking much like Seiko’s “SKX” scuba diver’s watches but not built to the same robust standards. The new Seiko 5 Sports collection is centred on a common watch design, sharing the same case, rotating bezel, hands, and dial design. And the movement used across the line is the self-winding cal. 4R36. All the redesigned models are identified by the new Seiko 5 logo that has the “5” rotated 45 degrees to the left. The first Seiko 5 Sports from 1968 What seems to be missing from the revamp is a new version of the popular Seiko 5 Sports “field watch” that has a distinctive, military-inspired design and has long been a perennial favourite for first-timers to the watch world. Given Seiko track record in swiftly iterating a model into do...

In-Depth: Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle and Villeret SJX Watches
Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle Aug 6, 2019

In-Depth: Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle and Villeret

Over the past two decades, Montblanc has evolved from a pure-play luxury pen maker into a serious contender in watchmaking. The company’s venture into watches began quite modestly in 1997, when it rolled out a line of watches powered by outsourced movements. But it was the 2007 integration of Minerva, a fabled maker of chronographs and stopwatches, that gave Montblanc bona fide watchmaking prowess. And by virtue of its own heritage, Minerva also bestowed a degree of legitimacy on Montblanc, along with an extensive archive of historical designs ready to be mined. Watchmaking prowess Le Locle, and then Villeret Earlier in the year I got to explore all facets of Montblanc’s watchmaking with a visit to Montblanc’s twin watchmaking facilities in Le Locle and Villeret. Both sit in the Vallee de Joux, the historical heart of Swiss watchmaking, and are about a 45-minute drive from each other. Each factory is dedicated to a distinct class of watchmaking – simpler and entry-level watches at Le Locle, and haute horlogerie at Villeret. Together, the two factories give Montblanc a unique diversity that has translated into three price categories of watches. Le Locle is responsible for both the first category, entry-level watches powered by Sellita-based movements, and the second, those equipped with mass-produced, in-house movements. Unsurprisingly, the facility produces tens of thousands of watches annually, all manufactured and assembled on an industrial ...

5 affordable vintage watch options Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2019

5 affordable vintage watch options

Watch collecting has never been more present in the public consciousness. Before the quartz revolution of the 1970s, the idea of collecting watches was probably akin to collecting modern vacuum cleaners. It just didn’t make much sense. An old watch wasn’t vintage; it was just old. And a watch that was still ticking, and keeping … ContinuedThe post 5 affordable vintage watch options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune Time+Tide
Hermes Aug 2, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune

There’s an inherent romance in all mechanical wristwatches - a romance drawn largely from the fact that these painstakingly created devices are fundamentally anachronistic machines that have been superseded several times over. Yet, still they manage to survive and, indeed, thrive.  And it might just be me, but this romance factor is more present than … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why Time+Tide
Tudor Aug 1, 2019

Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why

Editor’s note: Not many know it, but Australia was one of the most important markets for Hans Wilsdorf as he built the businesses of Rolex and Tudor in the early part of the 20th century. Tudor watches have been in Australia for the best part of 100 years, proving that Australians know great value when … ContinuedThe post Tudor in Australia for almost 100 years? Here’s why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Aug 1, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives

If you’re reading this, you probably know who Gérald Genta is, and if you don’t, you probably recognise the name. He was the most prolific watch designer of the 20th century, having been the source of inspiration for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Omega Constellation. He designed for everyone, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Gérald Genta archives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch Chanel Aug 1, 2019

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch

Chanel has been slowly but steadily building up its line of mechanical watches powered by high-end, in-house movements. Most notable is the Monsieur de Chanel jump hour, created with the help of respected independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier, who sold a minority stake in his company to Chanel several years ago. Mr Gauthier also had a hand in last year’s Boy.Friend Skeleton, a top of the line variant of Chanel’s fashionable rectangular watch. Fancy mechanics are usually the preserve of men’s watches, but the Boy.Friend Skeleton boasts an impressively thoughtful, open-worked movement, the Calibre 3. In fact, the design and details of the in-house movement show that it was conceived from the ground up with a particular aesthetic goal in mind. It’s the only way to create a skeleton movement that looks as coherent as this does. An especially beautiful detail are the gilded bevels on the outermost frame of the base plate and the sub-seconds, which emphasise the finish and shape of the movement. Chanel circles The Calibre 3 has been constructed to incorporate a series of repeating, interlocking circles, a favourite motif of Chanel’s chief watch designer, Arnaud Chastaingt. The motif starts with the bridges and base plate, which are all brass finish with a frosted surface coated in black amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC). A telling indication of the attention to detail put into its construction lies in how the bridges are constructed. Instead of being a sing...

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear  Time+Tide
Cartier s Santos-Dumont Jul 31, 2019

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear 

Now that we’re more than halfway through, I think we can all admit that 2019 has been a bit of an odd one, as far as years go. If you had told past Felix that a slender steel quartz Cartier would be one of the best watches of the year, he would have scoffed.  But … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo Jul 31, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition

I can only imagine the joy that must have been felt in Omega’s design department when it was announced that Tokyo would be hosting the 2020 Olympic Games. Not only has Japan had an incredible influence on design, but their flag - a simple red sun in a white field - lends itself to some interesting … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Jul 30, 2019

Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Review

The 21st of July 1969 at 02:56:15 GMT marks a momentous step in world history, as this was when the Astronaut Neil Armstrong stepped off the Apollo 11 Lunar Module “Eagle” to become the first human to stand on another planet. Astronaut Buzz Aldrin accompanied Neil Armstrong in achieving this incredible feat when he also joined his compatriot on the lunar surface. Buzz Aldrin who has been an Omega ambassador since 2009, wore the Omega Speedmaster Professional on the Apollo 11 space mission, which is when it became the first watch to be worn on the moon. The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary limited edition not only celebrates the historic occasion of celebrating the 50 years since the first Speedmaster on the moon, but is also the first watch in history to use Omega’s new patent-pending alloy; 18k Moonshine Gold. This pioneering new Gold alloy offers a lighter tone than a normal yellow Gold alloy would, while also having a much higher resistance to colour fading. This 18k Moonshine Gold alloy has been used on the dial and the casing which helps accentuate the colour from the darker tones used throughout these parts. The bezel along with the Omega logo, diamond polished indexes and the highlighted 11 on the 11-hour mark are all done in the 18k Moonshine Gold alloy. Omega has cleverly made the 11 o’clock hour marker in Arabic Numeral instead of the beveled indexes as a tribute to the Apollo 11 Lunar module “Eagle”. The hour and minute hands are designed...

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet SJX Watches
Rolex Wants Jul 29, 2019

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet

Many great human endeavours that Rolex has been part of have a distinctly earthly ring to them. From Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summiting the world’s tallest mountain to Jacques Piccard reaching the deepest point in the oceans, or even Fidel Castro journeying through Cuba’s rainforests, a great deal of the planet has been covered with a Rolex keeping time. While Geneva watchmaking giant has sponsored various explorers over the decades, its focus has now shifted subtly, but substantially. Rolex will support ecologically minded explorers of the natural world, specifically to help them learn how to preserve it. Named Perpetual Planet, this doubtlessly well funded initiative consolidates three of the company’s key partnerships – the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, its longterm association with the National Geographic Society, and Mission Blue, led by American oceanographer Sylvia Earle. The Wilsdorf legacy While it is easy to be cynical about a maker of luxury watches claiming to do good, charity is not merely a box to be ticked at Rolex. The founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had no children and upon his death in 1960, gifted his ownership of the watch brand to an eponymous foundation that’s one of the largest charitable foundations in Europe. Though it operates discreetly, the foundation does so on an immense scale, especially in relation to its home country, which is wealthy but small. From saving the Geneva’s football club to bankrolling the...

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch Time+Tide
Bulgari Roma watch Editor’s note Jul 27, 2019

The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch

Editor’s note: This year, the Bulgari watch department celebrated its fifth year in a row of record-breaking watches with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. While some in the watch industry are still coming to terms with the horological success of a brand with roots in jewellery, Bulgari have actually been making watches since 1975. … ContinuedThe post The legend of the first Bulgari Roma watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn?

Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living with the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM 1033 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Jul 26, 2019

Living with the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM 1033

Originally a no-nonsense dive watch made for the frogmen of the Italian navy during the Second World War, Panerai has been moving towards more civilian-friendly sports watches. The evolution is best illustrated by the Luminor Due, which is smaller and thinner, and as far removed from a traditional Panerai as possible while still retaining the signature crown locking mechanism. At the same time, Panerai has also rolled out watches that are oversized like the military originals, but with an increasingly variety of dial colours, like the quartet with blue dials in 2016. Such metallic blue dials are currently fashionable, so it’s no surprise Panerai has continued with the same colour. The recent Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM01033 is essentially an upsized, 44mm  version of the PAM 688 from 2016. I had one on the wrist for a few days – here’s how the test drive went. Compared with the earlier PAM 688, size is not the only difference with the new Luminor PAM 1033. A small but significant design tweak is the colour of the hands: instead of gold hands as as before, the hands now match the case. Though the change is seemingly minor, it gives the watch a different look, one that’s more contemporary, because the hands, though small, are the focal point on the dial. But the beige Super-Luminova on the dial and hands is faux-vintage, which does not quite match the newness of the blue dial. The dial is a “sandwich” construction, a signature feature of Paner...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 24, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”

The story of the A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary set is now well known: slated for October launch, the set will comprise 10 different Lange 1 watches, all clad in the same blue and silver livery. One watch has been announced a month since the start of the year, and the latest addition is the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”. First introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was initially criticised for meddling with an iconic design. It has since matured well, helped by several redesigns as well as a movement conceived specifically for the watch. Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary Bigger and better It’s the larger brother of the Lange 1, with a case diameter that’s 2.5mm larger; making it 41mm compared to 38.5mm for the classic Lange 1. But because the movement inside was designed to fit the watch, it scales up the design while adhering strictly to the proportions and geometry of the original Lange 1. The new movement was required to accommodate the signature, off-centre displays of the Lange 1, which sit on a neat grid. The cal. L095.1 is 34.1mm, compared to the 30.4mm of the first generation Lange 1 movement, the L901.0. An upside of the larger movement is the consolidation of the twin barrels of the smaller Lange 1 into a single, larger barrel, while still maintaining the 72-hour power reserve. That leads to a small but crucial difference on the dial of the Grand Lange 1: the lettering at seven o’clock reads “Gangreserve 72 Stunden”, German for ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe Time+Tide
Jul 24, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe

It’s long been a staple of watch collecting advice and lore - don’t keep your watches in your sock drawer or consumer-grade safe, keep them in a safe deposit box. Well, that old adage is looking a little stretched on the basis of a recent article in The New York Times, which recounts the harrowing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Watch Jul 23, 2019

Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321

Watch lovers across the planet have been collectively holding their breath this year, eagerly waiting for Omega to release a commemorative watch to celebrate humanity launching away from the planet. It was 50 years ago that American astronauts left the safety of their lunar module and stepped onto the surface of the Moon, with Omega … ContinuedThe post Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 23, 2019

Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018

For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of … ContinuedThe post Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Time+Tide
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Editor’s note Jul 21, 2019

Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five

Editor’s note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn’t yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five - it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at …  The story … ContinuedThe post Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith Heuer et al or Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like Time+Tide
Jul 20, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like

The buying and selling of second-hand watches has traditionally been an unglamorous, possibly even seedy, affair. The traditional image of that side of the industry has been one of tight margins, hard sales talk and the ever-present threat of fakes. Well, in the last few years it’s a part of the business that’s been undergoing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 16, 2019

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248

While Grand Seiko watches are classical and often formal, the Grand Seiko Sport collection is all about larger, more casual watches, The latest addition to the Sport line is the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, the first Grand Seiko with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Yellow gold has been widely used for Grand Seiko watch cases, including for the commemorative Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW252, but the two-tone look is a first for the brand – an indication of its conservative approach to design. The contrast of yellow gold and blue is a tried and tested – and perhaps slightly overdone – approach for a luxe sports watch, evidenced by the popular Rolex Submariner ref. 116613. On the new SBGE248, yellow gold is applied generously and the colour stands out. The bezel is 18k yellow gold, as is the crown, while the hour markers, hands and markings on the dial are all gilded. Though the bezel itself is gold, the insert is scratch-resistant sapphire, just as it is on the standard Spring Drive GMT.   Size-wise the watch is identical to the standard model, with a case diameter of 44mm. The case is stainless steel, as is the bracelet. It is powered by the self-winding Spring Drive cal. 9R66 that guarantees an accuracy of within 15 seconds a month – or half a second a day – and a power reserve of 72 hours. The incredible accuracy is thanks to the electronically-regulated, mechanical oscillator inside; the regulation in turn is governed by a quartz oscillator with an integra...

Panerai’s latest lean, green timekeeping machines – PAM00995, PAM00998, PAM00999 and PAM00997 Time+Tide
Panerai s latest lean green Jul 15, 2019

Panerai’s latest lean, green timekeeping machines – PAM00995, PAM00998, PAM00999 and PAM00997

Panerai’s Radiomir is the diving brand’s most dressy offering, lacking some of the heft - as well as the crown guard - of its Luminor and Submersible brethren. But it’s still every inch (or should that be millimetre) a Panerai. That super-distinctive case, those hands and, of course, those numerals. This time around, we’ve been … ContinuedThe post Panerai’s latest lean, green timekeeping machines – PAM00995, PAM00998, PAM00999 and PAM00997 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.