Results for Frequency / Beat Rate (vph, Hz)

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Grand Seiko 9F movement Feb 3, 2022

Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz

Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...

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Hublot Unveils Jan 25, 2022

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only

While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...

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SJX Watches

Omega Unveils Jan 4, 2022

Omega Unveils the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold

Omega’s opening act for the year is a splendid reinterpretation of the first-ever Speedmaster, the ref. 2915-1 of 1957. More accurately, it’s a splendidly luxurious take on the vintage original. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is equipped with (almost) the same movement as the ref. 2915, and retains the same dimensions – but it’s entirely in Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy and enhanced with extras like an onyx dial and enamelled tachymeter scale. Entirely in Canopus gold, Omega’s own white gold alloy Initial thoughts Omega is starting 2022 in a big way with a heavyweight timepiece that perfectly encapsulate the brand’s historical greatness – which naturally means a Speedmaster. And it’s not just any Speedmaster, but arguably the ultimate iteration of the Moon Watch: the cal. 321 in a CK2915-1 case. The result is a watch that seems straight out of 1957 at a glance, but one that’s definitely heftier and shinier up close. The new Speedmaster does a good job at evoking a perfectly preserved example from the 1950s, thanks to clean dial that avoids faux patina. The purely modern aesthetic makes sense, since it gives the watch its own identity and clearly distinguishes it from the vintage originals and later remakes, most notably the 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster released in 2017 for the 60th anniversary of the model. That said, the new Speedmaster isn’t particularly creative – it does feel a little like yet another Speedmaster – since i...

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Casio n Inaugurated Dec 21, 2021

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst

An exhibition dedicated to limited-edition watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Exceptional Masterpieces recently concluded after a five-day run in Singapore. The event was fully subscribed every day it was open, but attendance was limited due to health regulations. Amongst the watches on show were all the Handwerkskunst limited editions. German for “craftsmanship”, handwerkskunst is an apt label for the series, which is made up of watches featuring artisanal decoration executed by hand, most often engraving but also enamelling on occasion. Inaugurated a decade ago, the series is now a family of seven watches, but each model was limited to no more than 30 pieces, which means the entire series totals less than 200 watches, making them amongst the rarest of Lange watches. So for anyone who missed out on the exhibition, here’s a look at five of our favourite Handwerkskunst editions. (For an in-depth look at each of the Handwerkskunst watches, see our definitive guide to the series published in 2020.) 2012 – Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (ref. 140.048) The second of the series, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst very much stuck to the formula set established by opening act, the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Handwerkskunst. While the mechanics remained almost identical, the decoration an upgraded over the standard version with elaborate engraving on both the front and back, but executed in a restrained manner that embodies the low-key style of the German watchmaker. Preci...

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Richard Mille Introduces Dec 20, 2021

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal

Unquestionably the preeminent maker of exotic – and ultra-luxury – sports watches, Richard Mille has just taken the covers off a simple but intriguing watch, the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Like earlier watches made for the Spanish tennis player, the RM 35-03 incorporates technical features to cater to the intense nature of the game – at least the way Mr Nadal plays tennis. And in this instance it’s a rotor with variable winding modes. As a result, winding can be halted during a game, preventing excess wear on the winding mechanism. Initial thoughts The RM 35-03 is a time-only watch – it lacks a tourbillon unlike the better-known RM 27 Nadal  – but it has all the qualities that makes it a Richard Mille, most notably the lightweight, tonneau-shaped case in brightly coloured carbon composite along with a skeletonised dial. It’s a look that screams Richard Mille, and also a signifier of wealth and status, since the watch is hard to get and also extremely expensive for a time-only. But fortunately the RM 35 does possess technical qualities that make it interesting despite being a “hype” watch. This version has the front and back case plates in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, with a case middle in Carbon TPT A second variant with the entire case in Quartz TPT The highlight of the RM 35-03 is the patented, “butterfly” rotor, which is essentially comprised of two halves that can be rearranged – thanks to a smartly simple mechanism – in order to v...

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Grand Seiko fanatics admirers or just Dec 13, 2021

Three Reasons to check out the White Birch in person, which you can now do at the boutique in Sydney (rejoice)

Attention all Grand Seiko fanatics, admirers, or just plain curious creatures! The long anticipated SLGH005 ‘White Birch’ is finally starting to land in Grand Seiko boutiques in Australia. The rate at which these watches sold out from preorders is really quite remarkable, proving that Grand Seiko are no longer an underrated gem of luxury timekeeping. … ContinuedThe post Three Reasons to check out the White Birch in person, which you can now do at the boutique in Sydney (rejoice) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Casio n Dec 13, 2021

Exhibition: The Franck Muller Museum in Singapore

Founded in 1992 by the eponymous watchmaker, Franck Muller celebrates its 30th anniversary next year. And just in time for the occasion, the brand has transformed its flagship boutique in Singapore into a pop-up museum. The Franck Muller Museum – A Horological Journey is now open until March 20, 2022. The exhibits include not just the brand’s notable historical timepieces watches  but even Mr Muller’s own watchmaking bench from Franck Muller Watchland in Geneva (pictured above). The exhibition is taking place at the brand’s boutique in Wisma Atria A story of success Once a struggling independent watchmaker – he was one of the earliest AHCI members in fact – Franck Muller founded a brand that is global. Best known for its tonneau-shaped Cintree Curves case and imaginative complications like Crazy Hours and Master Banker, Franck Muller has a string of “World Premieres” to its name. They refer to the never-seen-before complications or combinations of complications that the brand unveiled almost every year from its founding. Amongst the World Premieres was the first triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch in 2004 and then in 2007 the Aeternitas Mega, a monumental watch that was the most complicated wristwatch ever at the time of its launch. A World Premiere Grand Complication from the late 1990s The more recent Grand Central Tourbillon in the Cintree Curvex case Because of its often over the top style, the brand is sometimes underrated by watch enthusiasts, despite...

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Hublot Introduces Dec 8, 2021

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

Earlier this year Hublot dropped the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami with its spinning, smiling flower. But the watch was surprisingly all-black – even set with black diamonds – seemingly antithetical to the artist’s splashy, polychromatic style. Now the watchmaker has taken the idea to its logical conclusion (or perhaps there will be more) with the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. It’s essentially the same watch but rendered in full colour and clear sapphire, an upbeat – and pricey – timepiece that exemplifies the quintessential aesthetic of both Hublot and Murakami. Initial thoughts The all-black Murakami edition was a stellar success – it sold out within a day – and Hublot already had plans at the time for a follow up; in fact, its spokesperson said so during the launch of the original version). Repetition isn’t always exciting for fortunately the new edition is certainly perfectly executed for what it is, while also being a far smaller run. Most importantly, it looks different enough – the chromatic opposite in fact – to make it compelling even for someone who owns the first version. The new look is even more striking, since the transparent case creates an open aesthetic that allows the coloured stones to shine – a case in another material would arguably have diminished the impact of the rainbow gemstones. Notably, the latest version is also true to the both the artist and brand. While a sapphire case isn’t novel, it’s...

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Time+Tide

Dec 2, 2021

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case

Editor’s Note: Welcome to our new series, “What Tweaks My Tourb” in which Zach shares the watch-related irks and peeves that leave him exasperated. First up: size matters. Clasp size that is… To some this won’t be noticeable, as this is typically a symptom of a smaller wrist, but there is nothing worse than falling in love … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rolex watches have long been Nov 29, 2021

The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures Opens in L.A.

Rolex watches have long been prominent in cinema, particularly of the American variety, never as a result of a product placements but instead a choice of the performer or director. Neither has the watchmaker recruited actors or actresses as ambassadors – it largely concentrates on sportspeople, musicians, environmentalist, and directors like James Cameron and Martin Scorsese – though it is the official sponsor of the Oscars. But now the watchmaker’s support of the film industry takes tangible form with the newly-opened Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, which was constructed by the same organisation that’s responsible for the Oscars. Rolex is a “Founding Supporter” of the museum, resulting in the Rolex Gallery on the building’s third level. According to Rolex, the space is dedicated to the “many aspects of moviemaking – technology, artists, history and social impact” and includes the “Paul Newman Paul Newman”, the Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 owned by the late American actor that sold for a record US$17.52 million in 2017. But in typical Rolex fashion – which means discretion to the point of secrecy – the watchmaker is nowhere to be found on the list of “Founding Supporters” of the museum. But there is a single “Anonymous” donor in the category of US$10-20 million donations, alongside Dalian Wanda Group, Steven Spielberg, and The Walt Disney Company. The art of cinema Located in Los Angeles, the Academy Museum is the first o...

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Richard Mille Nov 28, 2021

DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” - Pierre Biver

We are nearing the end of Dubai Watch Week 2021, but we are approaching the finish line strong. The day remained packed with Horology Forums, Collectors Lounge sessions, Creative Hubs, Masterclasses and more. Later on in the evening things kicked into a higher gear, fitting when you consider the topic of discussion was the 40Hz … ContinuedThe post DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko SBGJ253 Nov 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial

There’s very little mystery left with Grand Seiko’s design strategy, especially with their Heritage collection. Often taking direct inspiration from natural scenes that surround the famous Studio Shizukuishi, the Grand Seiko artisans manifest the beauty of the world around them into dials that breathe life into the watch. For most of us who can’t even … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

De Bethune UAE Hawk Nov 23, 2021

De Bethune UAE Hawk For Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons: Commemorating 50 Years Of The United Arab Emirates

As might be expected from a collaboration between De Bethune and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the UAE Hawk is absolutely stunning. In essence, it’s a DB27 Titan Hawk in a seven-piece limited edition but it is a touch more classical. What are the other differences? Martin Green takes a closer look.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Tudor Nov 17, 2021

Available in the Shop: The Perfect Modern Tudor

In its short, decade long life Tudor’s defining dive watch, the Black Bay has been on a wild ride. We look at the historic origins of Tudor’s diver and discover how this design lineage has been incorporated into the modern-day Tudor Black Bay

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Unveils Nov 2, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar in White Gold

While Vacheron Constantin already has a few triple calendar watches in its catalogue, including the old-school Historiques and contemporary FiftySix. But perhaps the perfect blend of classical and modern is Traditionnelle triple calendar introduced three years ago. The latest version of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar is in white gold, paired with a grey dial – a clean, restrained combination. Initial thoughts While the latest version is merely a change of colours, it’s still a smart look. Already appealing in terms of design, the Traditionnelle gets better with the right case metal and dial. And here the grey-on-silver formula is perfect. The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar is unusual for the dial layout. Instead of having twin-windows side at side under 12 o’clock, the day and month indicators are pushed to the edge of the dial. This opens up the dial aesthetic, while also improving legibility. Like the other models in the Traditionnelle family, the Complete Calendar is masculine and serious, especially in this colour, but not mundane. That’s thanks in part to interesting details, like the double-baton marker at 12 o’clock and a case with a coin-edge fluting on the back. Importantly, the movement is decorated well – as good as it gets as far as big brands go – it even packs a few inward angles on its anglage (even if they aren’t extremely sharply angled). At US$41,000, the price tag is hefty, but it is considerably more affordable than any of Va...

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Time+Tide

Nov 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist

With a watch as visually complex as the REISER Alpen Skeleton, it’s always hard to know where to begin, but perhaps the most unique aspect of its design is the signature Alpen case profile. Although the hexagonal case shape may be more than a touch familiar to most watch enthusiasts, there’s a lot more to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Black Bay 58 Oct 31, 2021

Comparing the blues - our DOXA SUB 600T ‘pacific’ vs the Tudor Black Bay 58

The sun is beating down and the swell is roaring along Sydney’s beaches as my family gets ready to partake in a daily ritual. Even though we don’t live together, we often meet up by the shoreline and hop in the Pacific Ocean together for a plunge.  Today, on my dad’s wrist is the new … ContinuedThe post Comparing the blues – our DOXA SUB 600T ‘pacific’ vs the Tudor Black Bay 58 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Oct 27, 2021

All About Automata: Mechanical Magic (With Action Videos) - Reprise

Today's high-end automata beautifully illustrate that extraordinary engineering can be combined with impressive artistic crafts to wonderful ends. But even in the highest quality examples, the principles of what drives automata are largely the same as they have been for centuries because most are based on very straightforward mechanical principles to create motion. Everything you ever wanted to know about automata is right here.

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Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation Oct 18, 2021

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation

Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

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D Deployant

Deployant

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF Oct 11, 2021

Review: The New Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in Titanium

Chopard presents its first sports watch with a high frequency movement - the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8 HF in titanium with 'Vals Grey' dial

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 7, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Debuted exactly 90 years ago a sports watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is famous for its swivelling case that was meant to protect the crystal. But in the modern day, the Reverso has paradoxically evolved into brand’s signature dress watch, as well as a canvas for assorted complications and artisanal decoration. The latest 90th anniversary model falls into the former category – the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is highly complicated, with its mechanics visible on two open-worked faces: the chiming mechanism revealed on the front and the base movement on the reverse. The front (left) with the repeater revealed, and the back showing the hand-wind calibre Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Repeater is an example of smart engineering and design, executed in a way that is possible only with the Reverso’s two faces. Notably, doing away with a solid dial is actually a technical necessity (more on that later), rather than mere vanity, but it leaves the watch looking as impressively complicated as it is. Though a modular repeater, its repeating mechanism is no ordinary example, but instead incorporates two proprietary innovations that compound to produce louder chimes, namely the extra-large hammers and the gongs that are located as close to the wearer as possible – they are attached onto the front crystal, hence the absence of the dial. Upon activation, the slider on the left winds up the mainspring at six o’clock, which unwinds to power the repeater That said, t...

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Time+Tide

Rolex watch shortage phenomena Oct 1, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is how to handle the scarcity of in-demand watches

Recently we covered the Rolex watch shortage phenomena, and the rare official statement provided by Rolex to Yahoo Finance in relation to their story. Rolex’s statement effectively claimed that scarcity was not a part of their strategy and that production cannot increase without compromising quality (which was something that Rolex would never do). But this … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is how to handle the scarcity of in-demand watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Zenith unveiled Sep 30, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph

Seiko’s current offerings are wide-ranging in both style and price, but its mechanical chronographs aren’t particularly outstanding – a surprise given the Japanese watchmaker’s historical prominence with the complication. Seiko, after all, was one of the first brands to debut an automatic chronograph in 1969, the same year Zenith unveiled the El Primero. Closing the gap is the latest launch from Seiko, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (refs. SRQ035 and SRQ037), a blend of two historically-significant Seiko chronographs. The grey-dial automatic chronograph is based on Seiko’s 1964 chronograph wristwatch, while the white-dial version is modelled on the 1964 stopwatch Design-wise, it is modelled on the timepieces Seiko conceived for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics where the brand was the official timekeeper, namely a hand-wind chronograph wristwatch and a stopwatch. But the new Prospex chronograph is a self-winding chronograph with a full-spec movement. So technically, it takes its cues from the the Speedtimer ref. 6139 of 1969. Like the ref. 6139, the new chronograph is equipped with an automatic movement incorporated both a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. Initial thoughts Seiko has launched countless vintage-inspired models in recent years, with diver’s watches forming the bulk of the remakes, which makes the new chronographs unusual, simple because they are chronographs. At the same time, they are aesthetically unusual since the di...

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Quill & Pad

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW263 Sep 29, 2021

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW263 And SBGW264: Using The Principles Of Japanese Aesthetics - Reprise

These two limited editions made to celebrate 60 years of Grand Seiko are fairly different on the surface, but both achieve similar success of representing the sub-brand's aesthetic and legacy. With possibly two very different customers for each watch, Grand Seiko also utilizes guiding principles to speak to both that are rooted in Japanese aesthetic conventions as Joshua Munchow explains.

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Time+Tide

Sep 27, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs

One of my main reasons for loving microbrands is the lack of limitations they place on themselves when it comes to design. That ability to be so uninhibited may be sometimes be polarising, but I always appreciate any brand’s attempt to go off the beaten path. That is what Feynman Timekeepers founder Yong Keong Lim … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Glashütte Original has Sep 27, 2021

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...

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SJX Watches

Nomos Introduces Sep 24, 2021

Nomos Introduces the Club 36 Blue for Ace Jewelers

A family-owned watch retailer with a prominent online presence, Ace Jewelers has made its an annual affair to work with Nomos on a limited edition. Past editions include last year’s #NomiesforLife and the Zurich world time from the preceding year. The latest is the Ace x NOMOS Club 36 Limited Edition, conceived to mark the five-year relationship between the German brand and Amsterdam-based retailer. Initial thoughts The appeal of Nomos; watches lie in their cheerfully simple aesthetics and affordability. Even though the Club 36 Blue is a limited edition for a retailer, it is quintessentially Nomos in style with its blue and orange dial. Being the entry-level Nomos watch, the standard Club 36 is offered in a narrow number of dial colours, which is one of the main attractions of the new edition. And because it is based on the brand’s entry-level model, the Club 36 Blue is unusually affordable. The version with a solid back costs just US$1,000 or so. An uncommon edition According to Ace, its latest limited edition is only the third limited edition based on the Club 36 over the past decade. The upside of using this specific model as the base is affordability, since the Club 36 is the entry-level Nomos. The tweaks that set the Ace edition apart lie in the dial, which has a blue and orange livery that’s based on Ace Jeweler’s corporate colours. Dial aside, the watch is identical to the standard model. The case is polished steel, 36 mm in diameter, and offered with eit...

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SJX Watches

Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2021

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Chronoscope

The latest from Omega is a surprise: a Speedmaster powered by a new, manual-wind calibre but fitted with a retro-inspired, multi-scale dial. Equipped with the full-spec cal. 9908, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a 43 mm chronograph with a dial bearing three sets of measurement scales: tachymeter, telemeter, and pulsometer. While the multi-scale dial is modelled on vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s, the case is classic Speedmaster with its characteristic “twisted” or “lyre” lugs. Initial thoughts The Chronoscope is essentially combines well-known chronographs from two disparate periods in Omega’s history: the multi-scale dial typically associated with the vintage CK 2393 powered by the cal. 33.3 from the 1940s, plus the Speeedmaster case that is a 1960s design. But it is distinctly 21st century in mechanics with the new cal. 9908 inside. While any one of those might be appeal on their own, together they don’t work well. The Speedmaster case design is about three decades older than the multi-scale so it feels incongruent. To be fair, the dial looks to be well executed with good detail and design. The portions of the dial look good and the applied numerals are a nice touch. And pricing is fair as well. But despite the appeal of the individual elements, the whole is less than the sum of the parts. Still, the design makes sense from a broader, commercial perspective since it adds a new look to the stable of designs for the Speedmaster, which is one of Omega...

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SJX Watches

Panerai Debuts Sep 7, 2021

Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar

Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT. Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance. Initial thoughts Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei. While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai. Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the...

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