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Revolution
Join Wei and Constant as they deep dive into the latest Grail Watch collaboration, Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ which showcases the incredible artistry of two of the brightest names in independent watchmaking. Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ is housed in a […]
SJX Watches
The watchmaking arm of vintage Porsche rebuilder Singer, Singer Reimagined has just taken the covers off the 1969 collection, a pair of watches that reimagine (no pun intended) the brand’s trademark central chronograph, the 1969 Chronograph and the simpler 1969 Timer. Like the brand’s prior models, the 1969 duo are vintage inspired and share the familiar cushion-shaped case and inventive Agenhor movement. But they are now smaller and more wearable, and in a first for the brand, are fitted to a matching bracelet. Initial thoughts In choosing 1969 as the inspiration for the brand’s latest series of watches, founder Marco Borraccino has selected a platform that allowed him both a historical connection to the past and an aesthetic palette from which to draw. The idea is particularly clever for a young brand with no heritage of its own. Choosing instead to focus on the industry-wide heritage for the brand’s most central complication is something of a sideways masterstroke. Pleasingly, the brand communication has refrained from laying it on too thick in this regard, so we can enjoy the pieces for what they are without the story getting in the way of the facts. To me, these two pieces are a welcome addition to the catalogue. I’m never one to ignore an uptick in wearability and this certainly offers it. Achieving this without sacrificing any of the brand’s aesthetic cues is a job well done. While there is a massive drop-off in functionality from the Chronograph to the ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has long been regarded as the standard bearer of nautical timekeeping, a historic watchmaking maison whose very name conjures up romantic images of seagoing adventure and oceanic exploration. However, here in the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin is also known in watch connoisseur circles as one of the most technically innovative and boldly experimental watchmakers on the scene, beginning with the bombshell introduction of the Freak in 2001. How did this intriguing brand achieve both these distinctions and how does it continue to pile up accolades in the modern era? Read on for a complete guide to the history, evolution, and diverse timepiece portfolio of today’s Ulysse Nardin. Foundations in Chronometry Like many inhabitants of Switzerland’s Jura Mountain region in the 18th and 19th centuries, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin took up the trade of watchmaking largely out of economic necessity, to supplement his family’s farming income during the cold, snowbound winter months. He passed that horological savoir faire on to his son, Ulysse, who proved to be an apt pupil and honed his own horological skills further under the tutelage of two of the region’s most talented and revered watchmakers, Frederic-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel. In 1846, at the young age of 23, Ulysse Nardin (above) established his own watchmaking workshop in his hometown of Le Locle, where the eponymous company is still headquartered today. Ulysse ...
Hodinkee
Ever wondered what National Swiss Day looks like on a chronograph seconds hand?
Time+Tide
Swatch keeps the MoonSwatch mania alive with a Mission to Moonshine Gold watch released to coincide with National Swiss Day.The post Another month, another MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold – this time with more lanterns! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Roger Dubuis extends their Excalibur Spider collection with a new Flyback Chronograph with some rather innovative watchmaking.
Worn & Wound
It’s always a special occasion when two innovative brands partner with one another to create something truly unique. Take, for example, the Sequent SolarCharger F**KING SUN watch, a product made in collaboration between Swiss smartwatch brand Sequent and Seconde/Seconde, a Paris-based artist who uses humor and street art-inspired design to mod vintage watches for the Banksy generation. Romaric André, the mind behind Seconde/Seconde, was tapped by Sequent to add his specific style to their SolarCharge model. With a bit of tongue-and-cheek humor, André balances a minimalist dial with a cartoonish delight. Sequent may be looking to renewable energy sources (like solar), all while Seconde/Seconde’s biting commentary on how the myopic view of everyday problems (like a melting ice cream cone, as seen on the subdial) blinds us to the potential that’s still out there. This collab is a perfect pairing between the often-cited stereotype of Swiss orderliness and the Paris artist’s whimsical cynicism. Adrian Bachmann, CEO and co-founder of Sequent, seems to agree, having added his support of this partnership, “When [André] landed us his first draft, I loved the idea and meaning of it immediately.” Apart from the aesthetics of the watch itself, the Sequent is a great reinterpretation of the smartwatch. While it looks like a standard analog watch, its functionality has all the high-tech gadgetry expected for those looking for a smartwatch that’s designed for health moni...
Time+Tide
Avoirdupois is a furniture and lighting company based in NYC The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is a 550-piece limited edition engineered and manufactured in Manhattan The integrated ultra-thin steel watch has an in-house calibre comprised of only domestic parts right down to the hairspring Some collectors get hung up about Swiss made. But, we have long … ContinuedThe post The Avoirdupois Force Majeure is engineered and manufactured in Manhattan with an in-house movement entirely made in the USA appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection is inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines Each of the watches, starting at CHF 3,200, are available on leather straps or a steel bracelet for CHF 300 more The day display at 12′ is executed in Zurich’s very own Swiss-German dialect Swiss independent microbrand Maurice … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection offers a rainbow of 8 watches inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The history of commissioned timepieces is a long and colorful one, but collector group commissions are perhaps a more recent phenomenon. GaryG recently met with Adam Eisendrath of San Francisco-based collectors 49 Crowns to learn more about the club and to check out two customized watches commissioned from Swiss-based Finnish independent Torsti Laine.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...
Time+Tide
Two modern classics of A. Lange & Söhne designs have been given fresh case materials. The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is cased in 18k white gold with a pink gold dial. The Lange 1 Time Zone is cased in 950 platinum with a rhodium dial. It’s well established by now that the Swiss aren’t the … ContinuedThe post The new A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar and Lange 1 Time Zone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier flexes their watchmaking muscles with three platinum-cased calendar pieces The brand takes on the Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian calendars and executes them in their signature minimalist style Powering the Hijri Perpetual Calendar is the 2020 GPHG-winning calibre PF009 In the last few years, Parmigiani Fleurier might’ve garnered interest through their minimal, slim-wearing pieces … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier’s new calendar trio of Xiali, Hijri and Gregorian appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication. Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe recently concluded its biggest Watch Art Grand Exhibition to date with the Tokyo exhibition. The event in the Japanese capital showcased almost 500 timepieces, along with limited editions and Rare Handcrafts created especially for the event, which were seen by some 60,000 visitors at the end of its two-week run in Shinjuku. Now the event will return to Europe in October 2026, taking place in Milan, the commercial capital of a country that was historically a great consumer of Patek Philippe wristwatches. The Rare Handcrafts Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” made for Watch Art Tokyo 2023 The Milan exhibition will be the seventh Watch Art exhibition after Dubai (2012), Munich (2013), London (2015), New York (2017), Singapore (2019), and Tokyo (2023). Originally planned for 2025 but later rescheduled, the Milan event will take place October 2-18, 2026. It will be open to the public at no charge. More details will be provided in due time. Update August 15, 2025: Dates of exhibition corrected.
Worn & Wound
Whether it’s New Yorkers migrating to the Hamptons or their Milanese counterparts holidaying during Ferragosto, it is a universal truth that Summer is the best time to escape the city. Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix’s most recent collection highlights the urban mad dash to vacation with their AIKON Automatic Limited Summer Edition series. The AIKON, first released in 2016, has long taken design inspiration from urban living, but the latest release has softened the steely nature of this watch for something more playful, delicate, and a bit more relaxed. The Summer Edition features a total of six options coming in three sizes: 35mm, 39mm, and 42 mm. Each option celebrates the warmer weather with tonal accents that are reminiscent of sand, sun, and the sea. The most diminutive option, the 35mm comes in two colorways: Ballerina Pink or Tanager Turquoise, giving wearers a desaturated take on classic baby blue and rosy pink, perfect for a feminine touch to one’s wrist. These smallest references include diamond hour markers, setting them apart from the 39mm and 42mm models, which use batons exclusively. The 39mm gets into more unisex territory with its larger size but in many ways remains similar to the 35mm model. The largest option, coming in at 42mm, is available in either Tanager Turquoise or a vibrant alternative, Orange Soda. The addition of the Orange Soda option doesn’t just inject a bit of flavor into the pale options of Turquoise and Ballerina Pink, but also hits...
Time+Tide
Formex can be seen as an independent brand, but is one of the few that borders the independent and regular watch markets. Independent because it operates, well, independently and outputs loads of innovative technologies and unique designs, and regular because the quality of Formex watches rivals that of established Swiss brands. The Formex Essence 39 … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Formex Essence 39 is a stylish daily wearer at a competitive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The epicentre for German watchmaking prestige for nearly two centuries has had a tumultuous history.The post The history of the Glashütte watch region appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer celebrates the 50th anniversary of the 1973 bullhead chronograph. Instead of reissuing the model, Citizen have blended it with their modern Eco-Drive technology. Citizen achieved the look by rotating an Eco-Drive movement 90 degrees. Thinking of the 1970s resurgence in watchmaking, the mind turns to the likes of Gérald Genta … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Gérald Genta brand, which has recently been revived by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watchmaking manufacture of Louis Vuitton, makes its debut with a unique creation for Only Watch 2023. The Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023 retains the brand’s signature octagonal case, a shape historically known as the “Success”, while showcasing the whimsical side of the brand with a champlevé enamel dial featuring Mickey Mouse carrying a birthday cake. And like many past Gérald Genta watches, it tells the time with a retrograde minutes and jumping hours – along with a minute repeater. Initial thoughts The long awaited comeback of Gérald Genta, a given after its sister brand Daniel Roth was resurrected, raised expectations given the brand’s elaborate complications of the 1990s as well as the current technical prowess of LFT. Unsurprisingly, the brand has combined two of the best known themes from its short history, the Fantasy line of Disney-licensed watches and striking complications. The watch is essentially a homage to Gérald Genta’s best hits of the 1990s. The Mickey House dial is a nod to the Fantasy watches, most of which had retrograde displays. And the octagonal case is modelled on the Success, a bestseller for the brand at the time. That said, the new case design has the addition of lugs that feel slightly out of place. The original Success designs either did without lugs entirely or had simple horizontal bar lugs, both of which arguably work better with the o...
Time+Tide
To most people an entry-level watch would be something like a Casio, Seiko, or maybe a Hamilton if you want to go Swiss. However, Louis Vuitton have made a significant declaration that they’re not interested in catering to ‘most people’. Although the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has included some true technical marvels, the air of … ContinuedThe post Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution was honored to be invited to Philippe Dufour’s 75th birthday celebration, a truly magnificent event hosted by Dufour’s family. This awe-inspiring gathering brought together esteemed watchmaking legends and passionate horology enthusiasts, uniting to celebrate the exceptional life and achievements of the legendary man himself. We also celebrate Daniela Dufour, Philippe’s daughter, as she follows her father’s […]
Time+Tide
South Korea is not typically a country associated with watchmaking, despite a strong culture of manufacturing that has leapt in quality over the last two decades. That said, microbrands essentially exist to challenge our preconceptions of what’s possible for small companies to accomplish. Pitzmann certainly capture the imagination with their two releases The First Pitzmann … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Formex Watches have been on the market since 2000 but the story of the Swiss independent brand’s success really begins with its revitalization in 2016, which marked a more streamlined approach to the product line and a new focus on direct-to-consumer online retailing. We spoke to Formex CEO Raphael Granito about the company’s origins, its new direction, and what distinguishes each of the models in its current portfolio. Formex Watch SA traces its conception to 1999 and its actual foundation to 2000. Based in Biel/Bienne in the Swiss canton of Bern, It was the passion project of Hans-Peter and Ferdinand Grädel, brothers with deep roots in the watchmaking industry and a shared enthusiasm for motorsports, and a group of their friends from the industrial engineering field. The company name “Formex” is a portmanteau of the French phrase “Forme Extrème” (or “extreme shape,”) a philosophy that is most evident in the earliest watch models produced by the brand (example above), which leaned into the high-tech automotive aesthetic of high-performance cars and motorbikes as well as the era’s propensity for large, bulky case sizes. The 46mm cases of the original Formex models, in fact, were designed specifically to put the founders’ signature technical achievement - the innovative, inner-case suspension system for the movement, a shock absorption device inspired by the suspensions in car engines - on full display. The patented system (below), which remains ...
SJX Watches
In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud. Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has a history at Only Watch of producing groundbreaking Grand Complications, displaying what it is capable of at the highest end of watchmaking. The table clock from 2021 or the Grandmaster Chime from 2019 both exemplify these virtues. And it would appear that it is going to continue down this road with this year’s instalment as it introduces a Grand Complication in tribute to Philippe Stern, Patek Phillippe Honorary President and father to the brand’s current President, Thierry Stern. Philippe Stern (left) and Thierry Stern (right). While the details of this piece are currently lacking somewhat, the brand has announced that it has developed an entirely new movement for this watch and it features Philippe Stern’s favourite Grand Complication. This will not just be a one off either, the first one made will be of a unique design and auctioned at Only Watch, but after that Patek will go on to produce 30 more, in a strictly limited run, after which the movement will never be used again. This November Philippe Stern is set to turn 85, his son was quoted saying this about the upcoming watch, “this is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe.” There will be more details about this watch to follow, with the auction being conducted by Christie’s at Palexpo in Geneva on November 5.
Worn & Wound
Just over two years ago, Oris came out with a series of watches with a bronze case and a confectionary dial. At the time, the interplay of the pastel-colored watches against such a warm-toned metal was an instant hit for many in the watch world. It was only a matter of time before the Swiss brand would be revisiting the Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy collection and improving upon it. Today, Oris has launched the much-anticipated follow-up to their 2021 collection with a new set of pieces, this time set in steel. The three colorways of this collection are a charming trio of blue, green, and pink. Still maintaining the candy-like quality of the previous iteration, the steel will definitely have a wider fanbase that, perhaps, couldn’t be sold on the bronze just yet. Keeping the integrity of the Divers Sixty-Five retro design, the new Cotton Candy collection’s steel case enhances the mod design that’s at once retro and modern. The steel case comes in at a friendly 38mm, the first time the Divers Sixty-Five has been available in this metal at this size in a non-limited edition, which is sure to please many. The easy to wear size makes it great for both men and women who might find the pop of color exciting. Wearers can choose between a steel bracelet or a perlon strap that matches the watch’s dial, giving one the opportunity to keep it subtle or a bit more flamboyant. The details of this watch really showcase the amount of thoughtfulness that has gone into the design ...
SJX Watches
The Jumping Hours Rising Sun Edition adds another shade to the Andersen Genève collection that places dial-work above all else with its expensive, hand-made guilloché dial. Having initially been released to mark the brand’s 40th anniversary back in 2020 with a blue gold dial, the new jumping hours retains same dial but instead does it in pink gold. It celebrates the independent brand’s long-standing relationship with its Japanese clients, being created to celebrate this deep bond. Initial thoughts It is only possible to start and finish discussing this model by talking about the dial. It has more of a dominating presence than you will find on most other watches simply because there is so much dial. Originally done in blue gold, the dial is now in a “salmon” shade might seem a little old hat to many as it has been tagged as a trendy colour for several years now. Though the dial colour feels a little passé since it has been done so often, the dial is still impressively executed in terms of quality. The link between the dial colour and Japan is less obvious. The company’s chief executive, Pierre-Alexandre Aeschlimann, told us the brand did not consult with anyone in Japan about this design of the jumping hours. Still, Japanese collectors have long been trendsetters with a love for independent watchmaking, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s, so it comes as no surprise that Andersen Genève continues to see them as a valuable market. During that period, Andersen G...
Time+Tide
Hublot’s Art of Fusion is mostly famous for their scratch-resistant King Gold, brightly-coloured ceramics and statuesque sapphire cases. It’s through this material experimentation that they earn their name as boundary pushers in high watchmaking. While it’s not exactly an invention that Hublot can claim, their utilisation of carbon fibre and the innovative Texalium is definitely … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is ultra-light thanks to cutting-edge tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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