Hodinkee
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin Announces Three New Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Models In 36.5mm
To round off a monumental 270th anniversary, did VC have save the best for last?
34,408 articles · 171 videos found · page 1143 of 1153
Hodinkee
To round off a monumental 270th anniversary, did VC have save the best for last?
Worn & Wound
As if winning the top prize at the GPHG were not enough, Breguet has capped off their big 250th anniversary year with the launch of what is surely their most horologically interesting and cutting edge release in years. The Expérimentale 1 is an ambitious foray into contemporary haute horlogerie from a brand that more than most is associated with classicism. It incorporates and merges multiple technologies and advancements into a remarkably cohesive idea that might even have those of us who have always bristled at the controversial Marine collection rethinking its potential. The showstopping feature of the new Expérimentale 1 is the tourbillon, the first ever to beat at 10 Hz. Bregust is quick to remind us that most tourbillons run at a rate of 2.5 Hz, so this represents a dramatic increase and in theory should provide a variety of chronometric benefits, including rate stability over the duration of the power reserve and a better baseline level of accuracy. But it’s not just a high frequency tourbillon. Breguet has also developed and introduced a new magnetic escapement that is designed to provide constant force to the balance. The logic here is fairly straightforward even if the mechanics themselves are, frankly, somewhat difficult wrap your arms around without real watchmaking experience (this, by the way, is essentially my constant of being as I observe similar watchmaking advancements – wide eyed and impressed but quite frequently confused by all the math and ph...
Deployant
Raymond Weil kicks off their "comeback" and ads to their Toccata Heritage collection with a tongue in cheek collaboration with seconde/seconde/.
Fratello
Some watches catch you off guard, and then there are the ones that genuinely stop you in your tracks. The Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk Ur-Freak belongs firmly in the latter camp. I first saw it during Geneva Watch Days a couple of months back, inside Ulysse Nardin’s boutique, when someone slid a non-disclosure agreement across […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk Ur-Freak [Live Photos] to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Our resident motorcycle rider Tom Austin talks about how the bike hobby and the watch hobby have more in common than you might think.The post Chronographs and carburetors: the timeless link between watches and motorcycles appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds isn’t about showing off, it’s about showing how precise watchmaking can get. Every jump of the seconds hand tells a story of engineering perfection and timeless design. It’s the kind of watch that reminds you why A. Lange & Söhne is one of the brands that sits at the top of the horological world. What We Love Exceptional craftsmanship as always from A. Lange & Söhne. Regulator display offers a unique way of telling time. Watching the seconds hand jump precisely each second is something truly special, especially for a fully mechanical timepiece. The finishing on both the case and movement is second to none, showcasing A. Lange & Söhne’s dedication to perfection. What We Don’t The case thickness remains on the larger side; even with the added function, it could be refined further. Reading the time at a quick glance can be a little tricky due to the regulator-style layout. The watch’s refined, dressy nature means it’s not the most versatile piece for everyday or casual wear. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 From the moment you strap on the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, you can immediately tell that this is no ordinary dress watch, but rather a refined instrument of time. Straight away you can see the level of precision, and the idea that every element of this timepiece as a role and purpose. In the world of horology, where high complications...
SJX Watches
Breguet’s 250th anniversary got off to a good start and the momentum continues with the Classique 7225, another take on one of the brand’s most inventive movements. Guaranteed to run within an impressive one second a day, the Classique 7225 contains the cal. 74SC that boasts a high-frequency balance wheel running at an uncommonly rapid 10 Hz, or 72,000 beats per hour. To achieve that without overwhelming friction, the balance pivot is magnetic, allowing it to “float” as it oscillates. The 10 Hz balance was launched some 15 years ago, but its predecessor, the Classique 7727, did not enjoy particularly attractive aesthetics. The Classique 7225 solves the problem with a striking dial modelled on an important series of tourbillon pocket watches from the early 19th century. To accommodate the dial layout, the cal. 74SC incorporates an additional constant seconds that can be instantaneously reset. Notably, the 7225 is not a limited edition, unlike its compatriot, the Classique 7235 launched at the same time. Initial thoughts The 7225 shows that Breguet’s revival is certainly well underway, stewarded by Gregory Kissling, who has been in the top job for slightly over a year. The 7225 isn’t a major revamp of the 7727, but it is far, far more appealing watch. The magnetic-pivot movement was ingenious at launch, and still is, but the 7727 was under-designed and over-logo’ed. With the 7225, Breguet’s ultra-chronometer finally has visual and tactile appeal. And it keeps...
Deployant
Patek Philippe surprises us with an off season release of a new Gondolo Serata watch - with an exquisite Zebra motif. Press Release with commentary.
Hodinkee
The watch bumps off the "Unicorn" Daytona ref. 6265 from the number three spot and takes down the "Bao Dai," which set the reference record in 2017.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe surprises with an off-season launch, the Gondolo Serata Zebra Ref. 4962/200R-010. Based on the curvaceous model launched in 2006, the Zebra features a sapphire crystal dial framed by garnets on the bezel and lugs. The dial motif replicates the cloisonné enamel dial of the Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50G-023 from the Rare Handcrafts collection of 2022, but here the technique and material are decidedly modern. Despite the radically different look, this is an evolution of the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 6159G that has a smoked sapphire dial. Here the dial is also clear sapphire, but engraved, varnished, and then metallised to create the striking zebra motif. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Serata has been in Patek Philippe’s catalogue for almost 20 years but it never really gained prominence. Though the case shape is elegant, the dials on the earlier versions were quite plain. The Zebra is the opposite – vivid and striking – and it instantly stands out amongst Patek Philippe’s ladies offerings. The fact that the dial motif is based on the Rare Handcrafts Ellipse is a nice touch, though watch enthusiasts may be disappointed the movement is quartz. Patek Philippe presumably understands its clients and those clients probably want the convenience of a quartz movement. The sapphire dial technique, however, is interesting enough that it is likely to make its way into other models, which will be a good thing. Savannah sapphire The Gondolo Serata is a longsta...
Fratello
When pilot Cliff Tait took off in 1969 to fly solo around the world in a tiny aircraft, he carried with him a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 - a watch that became as vital as any flight instrument. This is the story of the man, the machine, and the timepiece that circled the globe together. On […] Visit The Rolex GMT-Master That Flew Around the World - Cliff Tait’s Extraordinary Journey to read the full article.
Fratello
Most watches we get in for review are round. They have three hands and maybe a date, but that’s about it. That’s why we were all very excited when we opened up a box with not one but two spaceship-like watches inside. Both the Maghnam Noor and Mohareb look like they could take off from […] Visit Hands-On With The Futuristic Maghnam Noor And Mohareb to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just taken the covers off a new in-house movement that will serve as a versatile platform for the brand, the Girard-Perregaux GP4800. Historically a significant producer of automatic movements, GP marks a milestone with the new, high-performance base movement that will gradually replace the 3000 family of movements that was once a workhorse employed by several high-end brands. Initial thoughts GP’s most famous creations are undoubtedly the historical Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges and the more recent Constant Escapement. Significant as they may be, neither illustrates the brand’s past strength as a manufacture in the early decades of contemporary watchmaking post-Quartz Crisis, in particular GP’s position as a leading supplier of automatic movements. It all began with the 3000 family of calibres introduced in 1994. Desirable for its slimness and high performance – the 3000 series was sub-3 mm thick while ticking at 4 Hz – this versatile platform served not only as a base for many of the brand’s own timepieces, but also powered well-known watches made by a number of prominent brands, including Cartier, Daniel Roth, Vacheron Constantin, and even MB&F;. A GP3000 found in the MB&F; HM2 And then inverted in the MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 The new GP4800 is clearly meant to replace the venerable-yet-aging 3000-series. Boasting a modern architecture and fine technical chops, the GP4800 is a step towards reclaiming GP’s past success as a movement ma...
Monochrome
Ready for take-off…? There’s a new chapter in the flight instrument collection by Bell & Ross and it’s named the BR-X3. While the Parisian brand’s history goes back to 1992, B&R; is mostly known for its striking aviation-inspired watches, following the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. Sometimes design-oriented, sometimes functional, but almost always linked […]
Monochrome
Farer, a British indie brand, debuted in 2015 with watches designed in London and produced in Switzerland. With an extensive portfolio ranging from characterful three-handers to GMTs, as well as chronographs, integrated sports watches, and compressor-style dive watches, the brand’s keen eye for design is paying off. Coupled with its direct-to-consumer business model, which eliminates intermediaries, prices […]
Monochrome
Hamilton’s latest models from the Khaki Pilot Pioneer collection have been updated with new bezels, dials and strap colours to bring a “civilian” touch to the more conservative, military-inspired watches. The collection is (loosely) based on the World War II Model 23 pocket watch for U.S. Air Force navigators and splinters off into modern 43mm […]
Fratello
There’s a new Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in town, clad in rose gold and black. The 43mm 18k rose gold case features alternating brushed and polished finishes, and the large black off-center dial provides a strong visual contrast. The handcrafted sunray guilloché pattern of the dial, framed by a chapter ring with circular finishing, […] Visit Introducing: Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Rose Gold - Welcome To The Golden Age to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Have you ever considered what it would take to start a microbrand? I was deep in an instagram doom scroll when a field watch I’d yet to see abruptly stopped my thumb. “I love this watch. My good friend made this by hand and it’s incredible. He makes them in Brooklyn from scratch. Check out his work” my buddy Greg’s caption read. I was digitally introduced to Giles Clement. Raised in the Catskills, he was always a tinkerer. It probably started with him putting old lawnmower engines on wheels as a makeshift go-kart, but he has always had the gift of creating something from nothing. A decade ago he stumbled upon a massive petzval lens at a thrift shop outside Chicago. This launched a years-long endeavor of building his own large format camera and teaching himself wet plate photography. Before he knew it, he was in a tent at a music festival in Rhode Island taking a portrait of Kris Kristofferson with a giant camera made of plywood and trash bags. The rest is history. Photo by Jonah Markowitz He went on to have a successful photography career, capturing portraits of folks like Nick Offerman, Fiona Apple, Channing Tatum, Questlove, Roger Waters, Elvis Costello and various other high profile figures, as well as several fine art series. Suddenly in 2020, like many others in the film and photography industry (myself included), work disappeared and he found himself on a forced hiatus. Never one to have idle hands, he began repairing watches. Ebay offered access to...
Deployant
We take the day off to celebrate the 60th National Day for Singapore. We wish all Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura! Regular programming will resume tomorrow!
Time+Tide
Exhibition casebacks on watches can be magical - but like any overused magic trick, used too often, the wizardry fades, Tom argues.The post Why exhibition casebacks aren’t always a selling point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The gloves, er, sleeves are off as we debate what might be the best summer watch.
Fratello
Why is there a Rolex GMT-Master II in the picture when this story is about quirky GMT watches? Well, that’s because no matter how far off the beaten GMT path you stray - Rolex set the path with a 12-hour dial combined with a 24-hour hand and a 24-hour bezel, and nearly everybody followed - […] Visit Quirky GMT Watches From Parmigiani, Papar, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Voutilainen recently completed a custom commission with the 28 Kohan, a one-off example of its signature chronometer wristwatch that blends Finnish cultural symbols with Japanese decorative arts. Much of the decoration on the watch is maki-e, traditional Japanese lacquer, that is the work of artisan Tatsuo Kitamura, a frequent collaborator who was also responsible for past Voutilainen maki-e timepieces. Initial Thoughts Unique pieces and commissioned watches were historically the norm at the highest end of the watch market, which was then much smaller. Clients could be more demanding, and for the watchmaker, the risk of being unable to find a buyer was very real. Today off-the-rack watches dominate, largely for commercial and production reasons. Even brands with a long history of bespoke or custom watchmaking eschew custom dial colours. Some, however, keep the practice alive, like Vacheron Constantin with its Les Cabinotiers. Many independents also remain amenable to customisation, even established names that no longer need to, like Voutilainen, albeit with a long wait. Bespoke watches are inherently difficult to criticise – such watches are a success as long as the commissioner is satisfied, even if it’s the most hideous thing ever. Fortunately that isn’t the case here, the adjective that comes to mind is bedazzling. I suspect maximalist designs are often common on Voutilainen’s custom watches because collectors want to make the most of the opportunity. Some deta...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Today, Brett Braley-Palko kicks off a new series. Dialed-In is an irreverent take on the classic style guide, with practical style suggestions for specific situations, built around watches we love. Today, as we barrel into the height of summer, Brett considers the challenges of dressing for a summer wedding with the NOMOS Minimatik 39 laying the groundwork. There is a difference between dressing and styling. Dressing is what I’m doing right now while I type this: I have on a pair of shorts from high school and a Rolling Stones t-shirt I got on sale at Urban Outfitters. But styling? That’s a bit harder to define – and even harder to achieve. While we all want to put our best foot forward, sartorially speaking, it ain’t easy, folks. You have to think about fit, cut, fabric, color. And while many of us know the basics, sometimes mastering a few practical tips is all it takes to look (and feel!) your best. And there’s no better place to get a masterclass on dressing well than a Summer wedding, where you’re not only navigating those pesky sartorial rules, but trying to figure out what the hell the invitation meant by “black tie casual” and how to not sweat through your jacket before the ceremony even starts. Building an Outfit Looking good for a Summer wedding isn’t impossible, but it does require a little more pre-planning than, say, the usual black-suit-white-shirt ensemble that’s the default for the cooler months. Summer allows for peop...
Time+Tide
Yellow details honour the Tudor Cycling Team's leader Fabian Cancellara's time in the yellow jersey. The post Tudor gears up for the Tour de France with a new limited edition Pelagos FXD Chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Crowns on the left: cursed, cool or a concession for southpaws? Tom gets deep into destro watches.The post Destro watches – does crown position really matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...
SJX Watches
Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...
Worn & Wound
Love it or hate it, Bell & Ross is committed to their iconic, oversized, and squared-off designs. But despite what their haters say, they don’t just do squares. Or rather, they layer other shapes over squares sometimes. Confused? Good. Let’s get into it. The brand’s popular BR-03 Diver platform is home to a healthy handful of references, all of which measure in at 42mm in diameter, and feature the brand’s classic “circle within a square” design that varies in color and material between models. Basically, the iconic Bell & Ross square case remains, with a diver’s bezel laying on top, giving each model a stacked, utilitarian aesthetic. The design is effectively functional and deeply polarizing, as is B&R;’s forte. Last year, the French brand began updating BR-03 Diver timepieces by introducing optimized changes to the movement and materials, ceramic bezels and inserts, and revised typeface, hands, and strap designs. The latest BR-03 Diver release, the Lum Outline, is perhaps the most emblematic of the line’s emphasis on functionality and capability without sacrificing stylistic panache. The Lum Outline’s case, bezel, dial, and strap options-one rubber, and the other black synthetic fabric-are all a uniform matte black. Normally, I would say that this is tame or even boring, but the micro-blasted texture of the ceramic gives the watch a more interesting and layered look than a monochrome design usually would. The case is a solid 13.35mm thick, and...
Time+Tide
The Rolex Daytona 126500 might be the best the legendary watch has ever been - but as Tom explains, it was definitely worth the wait.The post 23 years and 6 months with the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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