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Results for Windup Watch Fair New York

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Furlan Marri, with an Assist from Revolution and Auro Montanari, Unveil their First Mechanical Chronograph Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Dec 1, 2023

Furlan Marri, with an Assist from Revolution and Auro Montanari, Unveil their First Mechanical Chronograph

Furlan Marri came on to the scene in 2021 with a series of highly regarded chronographs using meca-quartz movements. If you weren’t around for the legitimate hysteria around these watches, well, you missed one of the key viral moments within our community from the last few years. These chronographs were a sensation, and if you had a chance to handle or own one, it’s easy to see why. They nailed all the right vintage cues, and somehow achieved an immaculate level of finishing in a watch that retailed for just $330 (though at the peak of their hype, they traded for much more on the secondary market). Still, at the time, many in the community openly wondered about the possibility of a mechanical version of these watches at some point down the line. Only a few years later, Furlan Marri has followed up that initial meca-quartz release with a trio of time-only mechanical references, as well as a truly bonkers perpetual calendar for Only Watch. Now, at long last (but not that long – again, the brand is only a few years old) Furlan Marri has unveiled their first mechanical chronographs, a series of watches that always seemed inevitable.  This collection is actually a collaboration of sorts between Furlan Marri and our friends at Revolution, as well as noted collector Auro Montanari, known to many in the community by his pen name, John Goldberger. Montanari was an early supporter of Furlan Marri, and it’s not unreasonable to say that his approval of these affordable but ve...

The 40th Anniversary G-Shocks are Among Casio’s Finest Worn & Wound
Casio s Finest Dec 1, 2023

The 40th Anniversary G-Shocks are Among Casio’s Finest

The world of G-Shock is, frankly, expansive. There are myriad references, materials, colors, and special and limited editions. Navigating this can be intimidating, so it helps to have an understanding of what the landscape looks like from way up. At a high level, among the two most well-known and best-selling G-Shock cases are the octagon and the rectangle, the 2100 and the 5000. These form the basis for a lot of the collections, and today’s highlight is one such example. The Polychromatic models are notable for their use of, well, colors but also their composition in the form of good old stainless steel. A closer look shows that these are watches that celebrate 40 years of continuous production by showcasing what G-Shock is all about. The world of G-Shock is, frankly, expansive. There are myriad references, materials, colors, and special and limited editions. Navigating this can be intimidating, so it helps to have an understanding of what the landscape looks like from way up. At a high level, among the two most well-known and best-selling G-Shock cases are the octagon and the rectangle, the 2100 and the 5000. These form the basis for a lot of the collections, and today’s highlight is one such example. The Polychromatic models are notable for their use of, well, colors but also their composition in the form of good old stainless steel. A closer look shows that these are watches that celebrate 40 years of continuous production by showcasing what G-Shock is all about. T...

Shinola Introduces the Bronze Monster GMT, with a Brown Fumé Dial Worn & Wound
Omega s “Nekton” Seamaster Nov 30, 2023

Shinola Introduces the Bronze Monster GMT, with a Brown Fumé Dial

One of the most interesting developments in the collector community over the past few years is the emergence of Shinola, and their acceptance in enthusiast circles. It’s no secret that Shinola hasn’t always been widely praised by the most discerning and hardcore enthusiasts, but a series of more restrained releases (along with some that are just the right level of wacky – remember the square cased, yellow dialed Mackinac yacht timer?) has bought them some goodwill with new audiences. A new GMT in bronze would seem to capitalize on multiple trends in the enthusiast simultaneously.  Part of the Monster collection, the aptly named Bronze Monster is a 40mm GMT equipped sports watch with a robust appearance and 100 meters of water resistance. The aesthetic feels aviation inspired, which makes sense given the GMT complication, although unfortunately this is a “caller” style GMT without an independently set local hour hand (it runs on a Sellita SW 330). Still, it’s attractive, and feels lush in bronze with a matching brown fumé dial. Fence post hands oversized Arabic numerals reveal that legibility was of primary importance to the design team on this reference.  The case has gentle, curvy lines at the lugs, and the key visual impression of the Bronze Monster outside the dial is the 24 hour bezel, also in bronze, with numerals in relief. It’s a striking look that reminds me of watches that the collector community has praised, like Omega’s “Nekton” Seamaster ...

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Nov 28, 2023

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold.  The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon Nov 28, 2023

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon

Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref 30020 Nov 21, 2023

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong

After seeing the fascinating timepieces made by independent watchmakers and the artistic highlights, let us now direct your attention to the notable complications in the Christie’s sales that take place on November 26.  In this compilation, we scrutinise nine noteworthy lots. Some items, like the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar ref. 5516 and the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, stand out with their six-figure price tags, while others might escape attention but are still deserving of a mention. Examples include the contemporary Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon or a distinctive version of Montblanc’s 1858 Split-Seconds crafted for the Only Watch charity auction. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begin at 1 pm on November 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the second session (lots 2501-2639) offering watches from the OAK Collection at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2223: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref. 30020 in platinum  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar pays homage to the revered vintage reference 4261, capturing the essence of one of Vacheron Constantin’s most sought-after timepieces among collectors. Manufactured in 200 examples across two configurations, one with a traditional dial, as seen here, and the other skeletonised, the watch stands out as a coveted item in the current collectors’ market. Notably, only 77 examples, inc...

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication both Nov 20, 2023

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand.  It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 17, 2023

The Best of the Indies at Christie’s Hong Kong

Christie’s autumn sale season in Hong Kong is led by Important Watches, a 146-lot sale featuring independent watchmaking, reflecting the genre’s current popularity. Notably, the season will also feature the first sale of the OAK Collection belonging to French collector Patrick Getreide.  In this compilation, we examine nine lots by independents ranging from watchmakers that are practically establishment now, like Voutilainen and F.P. Journe. Amongst the highlights from the OAK Collection are several unique watches made for past Only Watch auctions, one of the rare occasions these one-off watches are returning to market. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begins at at 1:00 pm on November 26 – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection sale (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Both sales take place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Lot 2242: Gerald Genta Arena Mickey Mouse  With the revival of Gerald Genta by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), there has been a renewed interest in the timepieces it crafted in the past. Watches produced during the era when the brand was owned Bulgari have received less attention, although some are equally interesting, like this Arena Mickey Mouse. Gerald Genta debuted its Fantasy line featuring Disney characters in the 1990s. That evolved into the Arena Fantasy in the 2000s, which included this particular 80-piece edition made in around 2009. The watch combines the fami...

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 13, 2023

Hands On: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II Diamant

Much lauded at its launch last year, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) was originally available only in two guises of rose gold or platinum, each with a matching enamel now. Now Rexhep Rexhepi has quietly debuted a small run of the RRCC II in the same metals with gemstone hour markers to match. The platinum version features a black enamel dial with baguette-cut diamond indices that give it a stark, formal beauty. And the rose gold model has a cream enamel dial with ruby markers. Initial thoughts Discreetly glamorous gentlemen’s watches with diamond hour markers are a well established tradition in watchmaking, particularly so during the mid-20th century at high-end brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The new RRCC II is clearly a reference to such historical watches. Despite being a modern watch, and clearly recognisable as such, the diamond-set RRCC II manages to capture the subtle, elegant nature of its historical inspiration thanks to its compact case with graceful lugs inspired by vintage Patek Philippe models, including this ref. 2551. A possibly unique Patek Philippe ref. 2551 dating from 1957 with a white gold case and diamond indices that sold for almost CHF360,000 at Phillips in 2022 Interestingly, even though the RRCC II was not originally conceived as a gem-set watch, the dial accommodates the diamond hour markers perfectly. The glossy surface of the enamel dial complements the diamonds’ sparkle, while the alternating track ...

An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW299 Full disclosure I Nov 12, 2023

An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299

Full disclosure, I have meant to have these two watches go head-to-head in battle on the site for quite some time. Fanboys like myself have long drawn comparisons between Rolex and Grand Seiko in an attempt to showcase how well-made and competitive the Japanese manufacturer’s offerings are in comparison to the behemoth that is The … ContinuedThe post An epic mid-size battle between the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 & Grand Seiko SBGW299 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Worn & Wound
Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Nov 10, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M

Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process.  Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result Time+Tide
Patek Philippe watches But it Nov 8, 2023

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result

When a big auction house presents their latest catalogue of lots, it is expected that it will be filled with various Rolex and Patek Philippe watches. But, it is not an everyday occurence for two incredibly rare and historically significant watches from the likes of George Daniels and Roger W. Smith to pop up – … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2023

AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster

The AVI-8 AV-4108 Dambuster pays tribute to the 80th anniversary of the Dambuster Raids of 1943. It’s a followup to their Dambuster chronograph which has nearly sold out. £17 from each sale will go directly to helping people through the Royal British Legion’s poppy appeal. It’s safe to say that AVI-8 as a brand are … ContinuedThe post AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How to use a slide rule bezel Time+Tide
Nov 3, 2023

How to use a slide rule bezel

We can all pretty much agree that pilot’s watches are awesome, whether or not it’s a historical legend or something more contemporary. There’s something about their utilitarian approach which is inspires our day-to-day lives, letting our imaginations soar whenever we check the time. That said, most pilot’s watch owners don’t actually fly planes. But, if … ContinuedThe post How to use a slide rule bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant in Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant Nov 3, 2023

F.P. Journe Opens Le Restaurant in Geneva

In the world of independent watchmaking, François-Paul Journe is perhaps the first amongst equals. But beyond his eponymous brand, Mr Journe has long been something of a gourmand who invested in restaurants in the past. But now his most ambitious culinary project has opened: F.P. Journe Le Restaurant. Located on Geneva’s posh Rue du Rhone, the restaurant is helmed by Dominique Gauthier, formerly the chef at Le Chat-Botté, the Michelin-starred Geneva institution in the lakeside Beau-Rivage hotel. A shared passion Anyone who has been inside an F.P. Journe boutique might have noticed wine bottled especially for F.P. Journe from Chateau Seguin, whose owner is a friend of Mr Journe. Similarly, the new restaurant reflects Mr Journe’s personal relationships and passions. The new restaurant is actually Mr Journe’s third foray into dining, amongst his previous endeavours was a steakhouse. But F.P. Journe Le Restaurant is undoubtedly conceived to be something else entirely. Besides the reputedly CHF1.5 million investment in the location, Mr Journe has recruited one of Geneva’s star chefs. Dominique Gauthier was the head chef at the Le Chat-Botté for some 30 years, clinching a Michelin star along the way. All smiles A historical address This new restaurant is inside a 19th-century building at 49 Rue du Rhône. More notably, the building once housed Bavaria, a renowned German restaurant popular in the early to mid decades of the 20th century. In its prime, the establishment...

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062 SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Arguably Nov 1, 2023

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062

Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...