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H. Moser Introduces a Highly Complex Endeavour Limited Edition Combining Chinese and Gregorian Calendars Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Oct 31, 2023

H. Moser Introduces a Highly Complex Endeavour Limited Edition Combining Chinese and Gregorian Calendars

Moser’s latest, in a somewhat under the radar way, is easily one of the most ingenious technical achievements in watchmaking this year. The Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition expands on the principles of simplicity behind Moser’s excellent perpetual calendar by integrating a Chinese lunisolar calendar with a display for the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac and phases of the moon, along with a Gregorian calendar. It’s a dizzying amount of information to be combined, and is even more confounding when you consider that unlike the Gregorian calendar, the Chinese calendar doesn’t have any repeated cycles, which makes it impossible to create a true “perpetual” Chinese lunisolar calendar. The way H. Moser and their partners at Agenhor have gotten around this is impressive.  The Chinese calendar is based on the cycles of the moon, which means that months have 29 or 30 days (it takes the moon 29.53 days to orbit the earth). A total of 12 lunar months means that a lunar year lasts approximately 354 days on average, which is about 11 days shorter than a solar year as observed by the Gregorian calendar. This is the first hurdle in combining the lunar and solar calendars into one mechanism, but it’s even more complex than that. In a calendar that only observes lunar cycles, the months need to shift to keep pace with the seasons, with each month starting around 11 days earlier in every new solar year. This means that every two to three years, a thirteenth month is a...

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Hands-On: Forty-Eight Hours with the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Ceramic Carbon Beige Camo Worn & Wound
Hublot Spirit Oct 27, 2023

Hands-On: Forty-Eight Hours with the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Ceramic Carbon Beige Camo

If you’ve listened to the podcast, follow me on Instagram, read what I write here on the website, or even have just had a five minute conversation with me about something innocuous, like who makes the best fast food cheeseburger, there’s a good chance you already know that I’ve kind of become obsessed with Hublot. I try not to waste an opportunity to be sure people know that to overlook this brand on the basis of their perception in the larger watch community is to be, frankly, a snob. I don’t much care for snobs, or gatekeeping, or for not looking beyond the surface of a particular watch or brand, so the widespread Hublot-hate that cuts across the watch community is a continued annoyance.  Because the thing is, Hublot is very good at doing what they set out to do, and judging them on the merits of fulfilling their intention seems like the only fair way to evaluate them, or any brand for that matter. Hublot, as it exists today, is essentially a brand full of statement pieces, but made with intention and a real focus on materials. The common gripes that they’re gaudy, or over-the-top, or even overpriced miss the point entirely. They are exactly what they are supposed to be. For a watch to be “gaudy” it would have to be so unintentionally, and as far as I’m concerned, a watch that’s over-the-top should wear that attribute as a strength.  As much I like and admire Hublot for being a weird mix between class clown, Rebel Without a Cause, and, I don’t know,...

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TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Continues Oct 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References

It’s no stretch of the imagination to think that there is a large crossover between motorsports and horology. In fact, some of the most well-known drivers have become synonymous with the brands they rep both on their wrists and plastered across their car. It makes sense, then, that TAG Heuer would look back to their motoring history to help celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera collection. Going back a few decades, we can in part acknowledge Jack Heuer as one of the reasons watches and cars have become paired in our collective minds. During the Golden Age of motoracing, Heuer introduced the concept of gifting gold watches to racing stars. It was here that solidified TAG Heuer as a brand that wasn’t just respectable – but covetable. It’s this bit of Heuer history which has become the inspiration behind this new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph. Coming in at 39mm in an 18-karat gold case, the watch itself is a timeless piece of art which sits somewhere between its sporty heritage and its luxury namesake. The small details of this watch show the thoughtful design to really honor the heritage of this collection: from the integrated chronograph pushers to the black subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock which are a nod to past expressions of the iconic reverse panda configuration. Most intriguing of all is the Glassbox design of the case itself, a flourish brought to the collection this year to celebrate the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. With an ultra-ergonomic design, the ...

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Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Oct 25, 2023

Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan

Having teased the launch of its eighth “fundamental invention” earlier this summer, Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Tourbillon Cardan featuring a 16-second inclined tourbillon suspended by a set of cardans, otherwise known as universal joints or gimbals. And for the nerds: the tourbillon is suspended in a mechanised gimbal that makes a fixed oscillation driven by the tourbillon, rather than a free-swivelling gimbal with differential gearing. Initial thoughts Despite a recent focus on sport watches, the Tourbillon Cardan is a reminder that no one does oversized, over-engineered watches quite like Greubel Forsey. The Tourbillon Cardan feels like a bridge between the past and future of the brand, suggesting the Tourbillon Cardan has been in development for several years. The dynamic and visually compelling nature of the tourbillon, the large sizing, and the traditional form of the case recall the Greubel Forsey of years past, while the minimalist aesthetic and the choice of titanium for the case material are clear hallmarks of the brand’s future trajectory. Impressive as it is, the swivelling tourbillon is not entirely a new idea. Zenith once had a double-axis gimballed escapement in its catalogue that was more complex than the Tourbillon Cardan but suffered from so-so reliability due to that very complexity. Greubel Forsey has approached the gimbals in a more concise manner, with the gimbals oscillating in a fixed motion that is being by the rotation of the tourbillon...

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A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova Worn & Wound
Bulova Bulova has Oct 19, 2023

A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova

Bulova has a long history of providing watches to the US military. When the US Armed Forces put out a specification for watches, Bulova was one of the most prominent brands to answer the call. We’re happy to offer a wide range of Bulova military watches in the shop, and we’ve paired up each of them with a nylon ADPT strap for a limited time. Let’s take a closer look at these watches, along with their perfectly-paired straps. Bulova has a long history of providing watches to the US military. When the US Armed Forces put out a specification for watches, Bulova was one of the most prominent brands to answer the call. We’re happy to offer a wide range of Bulova military watches in the shop, and we’ve paired up each of them with a nylon ADPT strap for a limited time. Let’s take a closer look at these watches, along with their perfectly-paired straps. The post A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Surprising Zenith Pilot Automatic Worn & Wound
Zenith Pilot Automatic Zenith has Oct 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Surprising Zenith Pilot Automatic

Zenith has taken a methodical approach to fleshing out the collections of their 4 families of watches, balancing a weighty heritage against an ethos that forces progress. How they’ve gone about this has been the subject of several of our reviews, and even editorials about the brand’s more recent history. Their newest collection of watches, released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, explores another realm of the brand’s past: pilot watches. Zenith first filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote” in 1888, decades before the Wright brothers made history in Kitty Hawk, and to this day are the only brand permitted to print the word on the dial (they trademarked the English word “Pilot” in 1904). Zenith has made some unforgettable pilot watches in their day (the A3822 being a personal favorite), but it’s been many years since they’ve done so in a way that’s captured modern enthusiasts.  Zenith has a checkered recent past when it comes to pilot watches, with releases dotted through the 20-teens not quite hitting the notes they needed to lay the groundwork for a permanent collection in the same way their classic sport watches have. But then, Pilot watches are a different breed altogether. Zenith’s approach with their newest collection of Pilot watches feels very different from those recent efforts, and feels like a genuine, modern approach to building a collection with some legs. To get a better sense of that direction, we spent some time with the ...

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Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 17, 2023

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum

After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1.  Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...

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Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Oct 16, 2023

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility.  The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...

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Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger: It’s a Puzzle - It’s Literally a Puzzle Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger It’s Oct 14, 2023

Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger: It’s a Puzzle - It’s Literally a Puzzle

What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.

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A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

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The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2023

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon embraces symmetrical and whimsical design. The Purity Tourbillon movement boasts a huge 17mm tourbillon cage that beats at 4Hz. Close inspection of the openwork movement reveals a lot of hand-finished detail. Although it remains quite a niche genre for the wealthy elite, the list of sapphire-cased watches is quickly growing. … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Exclusive: Jean Arnault and Alexandre Mille In Conversation with Wei Koh Revolution
Richard Mille Oct 5, 2023

Exclusive: Jean Arnault and Alexandre Mille In Conversation with Wei Koh

We had the distinct privilege of hosting two influential luminaries from the next generation of watchmaking leaders: Jean Arnault, the Marketing and Product Director for Watches at LVMH, and Alexandre Mille, the Sales Director of Richard Mille and the son of the brand’s founder, join us to delve into their respective journeys, the foundational principles […]

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[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 Oct 2, 2023

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Titanium Omega Seamaster 300 2231.50.00

The Omega Seamaster has a rich and complex history that encompasses a broad range of styles over the generations. Odds are strong that each of us conjures a slightly different image upon hearing the word Seamaster, from the Bond examples of the ‘90s, to the PloProf of the ‘60s, or even the quaint, near formal examples from the ‘40s. That breadth is reflected in the modern Seamaster collection, which currently encompasses the Aqua Terra, the Diver 300, the Planet Ocean, and a range of Heritage models that include the likes of the Railmaster and the PloProf. This diversity of options has meant plenty of great references have come and gone, and a few may have even slipped through the cracks through no fault of their own. This Missed Review will focus on one such reference, the titanium Seamaster 300 2231.50.00 from the early ‘00s.  The modern Seamaster 300 picks the story up in 1993, sporting the word ‘professional’ on its dial and a helium release appendage at 10 o’clock. The new watch was about to get the boost of a lifetime thanks to a placement on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in his portrayal of fictional British spy, James Bond in the 1995 film GoldenEye. It is this reference, the steel 2541.80.00 with quartz movement that generally pops into my head when I think about the Seamaster. It’s not a watch I find particularly attractive, but it is one that I associate with a specific era perhaps more than any other watch. There is something truly unique about t...

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A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More Worn & Wound
Tudor Oct 1, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More

A Week In Watches returns this week with a look at a trio of divers that take their inspiration from the past, and apply in a thoroughly modern way. No faux lume or tropical dials in sight, prompting us to wonder if that trend is behind us. Divers from Oris, Tudor, and Seiko all paint a clear picture of a way forward that’s not a carbon copy of the past. You might say Seiko has always been ahead in that game, and their latest Prospex divers, which bring the 62MAS flavor into a tidy modern skindiver case that we’ve loved since it was released in 2020. If this is what we can expect more of, count us in. Elsewhere, Farer dropped a pair of new chronographs called the Chrono-Contempo with colorways inspired by two vibrant streets found in London. These are Farer through and through, with unexpected colors and a clean, modern design language. As usual, Farer nails the proportions here thanks to their use of the hand wound SW510M from Sellita. Finally, a collaboration between our friends at Fratello and Minase comes together for the second time, continuing a trend of subtle yet powerful dial executions from the pair. The latest is the M-3 Nori, and gets a dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, which comes together way better than you might expect. Here’s to the next one. The post A Week In Watches, Episode 64: Heritage Divers Take A Step Into The Present; Colorful Chronos & More appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster I never thought Oct 1, 2023

Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster

I never thought these words would come out of my mouth, but I am letting go of one of the holiest grails in my collection, my near-mint Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. If you know me, you’ll know this is one of the most out of character things I have done in all my time collecting … ContinuedThe post Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 3843/1 Oct 1, 2023

The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges

One of the most intriguing Patek Philippe wristwatches is once again coming up for sale at auction, eight years after it was last sold publicly. Made in 1990 for a Japanese client, the Patek Philippe ref. 3843/1 has a 13.43-carat diamond as its crystal – a large, flat cut also known as a lasque diamond – and is an entirely one-of-a-kind wristwatch with its own singular reference number. As we explained in our 2016 story detailing the watch the first time it was sold (which seems like a lifetime ago in watch collecting), the ref. 3843/1 came about in the early 1990s when a Japanese client handed over the 13.43-carat lasque diamond to Patek Philippe with a request to mount it onto a watch. The watch was completed in 1991 and then sold to the client in 1994. Image – Christie’s Originating in India, lasque diamonds are flat, wide, and irregular in form. They were historically employed to cover miniature portraits and are also known as portrait-cut diamonds. Here the lasque diamond forms the crystal, which camouflages the fact that it is a diamond. Only the facetted edges and tiny inclusions are a giveaway that the crystal is a diamond. Case in white gold and matched with a fine-link bracelet, the ref. 3843/1 was built around the lasque diamond, explaining the unusual triangular case form. The case is about 32 mm by 26 mm at its widest, making it larger than most watches of its era, though relatively small by modern standards. Christie’s photos of the ref. 3843/1 appe...

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Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Sep 28, 2023

Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions

Fueled by nostalgia for the 90s, with a touch of 80s too, the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tags are a spiritual follow-up to our highly sought-after collaboration from 2021. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination – in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. Two watches unlike any you’ve encountered before, the only question is, which side will you choose, Ultraviolet or Infrared? The post Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Dive Watches Inspired by Cold Water American Diving Locales Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Sep 27, 2023

Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Dive Watches Inspired by Cold Water American Diving Locales

The SPB line in Seiko’s Prospex collection needs no introduction, and to many it represents old-school Seiko excellence: historic design with modern specs at reasonable prices. In particular, the SPB143, 145, and 147 are especially beloved thanks to their wearability and 62MAS lineage. Seiko is now introducing three new U.S. Special Edition models based on that reference, each corresponding to a cold-water American diving locale. The SPB419 makes the biggest statement of the three, and its striking gradient dial is intended to invoke the northern Great Lakes’ blue ice, notably in Michigan. A rare natural phenomenon, this blue ice is achieved when sustained temperatures allow water to freeze and thicken over long periods of time. When light then hits the ice, the red part of the light (i.e. longer wavelengths) are absorbed while shorter blue wavelengths are transmitted. This seldom seen sight is truly something to behold, and Seiko captures its essence here. The SPB421 and SPB423 take us from the Lakes to Alaska where we meet a different type of icy structure: glacial moulins. Also known as mills, moulins are well-like structures that form from weaknesses in the ice and can sometimes reach hundreds of meters to the bottom of the glacier. The SPB421’s dark blue dial with a subtle gradation captures the ice’s color at depth – you know, in case you haven’t seen it yourself, while the 423’s dial is meant to evoke the light gray tones of glacial ice as a whole. Al...

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Interview: Rexhep Rexhepi, the Independent Watchmaker Thinking of the Long-Term SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 25, 2023

Interview: Rexhep Rexhepi, the Independent Watchmaker Thinking of the Long-Term

Rexhep Rexhepi is certainly a star in independent watchmaking, particularly in the last three years as “indies” have become fashionable, leading to a proliferation of brands and spike in prices. But like the recent popularity of independent watchmaking as a whole, Mr Rexhepi’s success is relatively recent and its longevity has yet to be proven. Now just 36 years old, Mr Rexhepi founded Akrivia in 2012 before starting to make watches under his own name when he debuted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCC I) in 2018. Does he have what it takes to become a great watchmaker in the decades to come? I sought to find that out by uncovering his motivations and vision during his recent visit to Singapore. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. SJX: Your RRCC I sold for almost US$1 million at auction in May. How does that make you feel? Rexhep Rexhepi (RR): Honestly, it’s always strange because I never really expected this. As a watchmaker that you want to control everything, even all small details, but unfortunately I’m not able to control that. It happened and I can’t do anything about it. I feel a little more pressure because people expect more now. I’m also afraid that people will change their minds [about my work]. I don’t want to change what I want to do and I don’t want to attract more people who want only to invest in my watches. I worry about that. But again, I know that maybe the market will not stay like this, but we try to...

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Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Retrograde Displays in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Retrograde Displays Sep 22, 2023

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Retrograde Displays in Singapore

After having developed its recent offerings centred on the retrograde display, Vacheron Constantin is presently hosting High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature in Singapore from now till September 30, 2023. The exhibition chronicles the development of the retrograde complication from its origins in the 19th and early 20th centuries.  On display are rare examples of pocket watches and wristwatches from the brand’s collection. These range from the 1930 “Bras en l’Air”, literally “Arms in the Air” (pictured above) featuring a dual retrograde display, to the more contemporary Métiers d’art Savoirs Enluminés Caper in 2015. This latter piece offers a modern interpretation of the complication, with designs from a page from a 12th century medieval manuscript. Also on show are the brand’s latest timepiece offerings that focus on this specific complication, which were initially introduced at Watches & Wonders in March of this year, like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date. High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature is taking place from September 1-30, 2023 at the Vacheron Constantin boutique located at ION Orchard. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:30 pm.  ION Orchard Singapore 2 Orchard Turn, #02-07 Singapore 238801 To register, visit Vacheron-constantin.com. Correction September 23, 2023: The Don Pancho minute repeater is not on shown at the exhibition, however, it is highlighted by...

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