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The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva uses vintage inspiration for a versatile package. It serves as a reminder that Hanhart aren’t a one-flieger pony. With black or white dials available, the Pioneer Silva neatly balances different eras for a timeless look. Hanhart have had their fair share of the limelight in the past few years, mainly thanks … ContinuedThe post The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1 SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

eBay Finds: Squale, Universal Geneve, and More Vintage LED Discoveries Worn & Wound
Seiko Chronograph 6139 How do Aug 10, 2023

eBay Finds: Squale, Universal Geneve, and More Vintage LED Discoveries

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter With eBay, some weeks are slim pickin’s and some weeks the bounty is plentiful. This week it’s the latter. Starting off this week with a bang, with this amazing vintage Universal Geneve Polerouter with Microtor movement. This example is the classic black dialed, no date version and it is stunning. Gerald Genta’s Polerouter design is an absolute masterclass on aesthetic design. From those sexy bombe lungs to the crosshair black dial with the signature fluted outer dial ring down to the Universal Geneve signed crown and Polerouter logo caseback, it’s just pure beauty. This example looks to be all original and in very good condition with the only issue I see being there is some corrosion on the hands. The watch needs an external cleaning to be sure, but I love finding vintage watches with all the funk on them, it just means it was worn and loved and hasn’t been messed with! If you’ve been wanting one of these, take a close look at this gem! View auction here. Vintage Seiko Chronograph 6139 How do you follow a vintage Polerouter? With arguably one of the most famous and popular Seiko chronographs, that’s how! This vintage Seiko 6139-6005 ...

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton WatchAdvice
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Pros Aug 8, 2023

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd - a definitive list Time+Tide
Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials Aug 6, 2023

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd - a definitive list

Unobtanium. It is a word many collectors use these days, with more and more references fitting this gloomy bill. It sucks to know that when certain brands release new watches, your chances of getting one at retail are quite slim, short of a long buyer’s history or a big dose of luck. So the question … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lacquer dials continue to attract an A-list crowd – a definitive list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni Aug 4, 2023

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni

The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...

AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2023

AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback…

To solid caseback, or exhibition caseback, that is the question. Or at least it was the question Fergus raised when they wrote the latest Making the Case column, arguing for solid casebacks to make a comeback. We thought the solid versus exhibition caseback dilemma would be very divisive, and after taking the query to Instagram it is … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives Time+Tide
Ming devices Jul 31, 2023

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder is designed to save lives on the wrists of paramedics and first responders. The inner bezel can be turned by twisting the outer bezel, reducing the need to fiddle with other timing devices. The scales on the chapter ring allow for calculating pulse and breaths per minute. Demanding situations call … ContinuedThe post The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback

It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is using a Rolex dial as a ball marker the ultimate golf club flex? Time+Tide
Rolex dial as Jul 27, 2023

Is using a Rolex dial as a ball marker the ultimate golf club flex?

When it comes to specialist interests, watches regularly seem to intersect with certain other areas of enthusiasm. Cars and aviation are always popular, but another really big one is the sport of golf. Now, Nick Anderson, a 24-year-old from Minnesota, has started a business that lies at the intersection of the Venn diagram between the … ContinuedThe post Is using a Rolex dial as a ball marker the ultimate golf club flex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Worn & Wound
Jul 26, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me

Origin stories in this hobby influence the rabbit holes we follow. My story began when I learned not all modern watches have batteries. The simple idea that mechanical watches were still being made, sold down the street from me, and could run for years without intervention blew my mind. Partially because it was mechanically impressive, but mostly because of how unnecessary it was. The concept of dozens of components interacting to move hands around a dial, when a perfectly functional watch can be purchased at the grocery store for $20, resonated with me. My discovery of these rebelliously absurd contraptions came at a time in my life when I had two kids in daycare and income was not disposable. My first mechanical watch was a one-handed Luch, a watch I loved dearly, and purchased for about $50. I didn’t care about finishing or accuracy, just that I had something unnecessarily complicated strapped to my wrist. Years later, my philosophy hasn’t changed much. When considering a new watch, I always ask myself three questions: What does it do? Does that thing excite me? Is there anything about the watch that doesn’t excite me? That third question is the one that keeps my collection and budget in check. The answers I come up with, always rooted in my original fascination with accessibly priced mechanical timekeeping, have surprised me. Some are movement specific, and others centered around design. Photo by Nathan Schultz So, to kick off a two-part series where I will try n...

Sarpaneva Introduces the Näkki, Inspired by Nordic Mythology SJX Watches
Ming overhead – Jul 26, 2023

Sarpaneva Introduces the Näkki, Inspired by Nordic Mythology

Having made a specialty of artistic Super-Luminova that began with the Moomin in 2020, Finnish independent watchmaker Sarpaneva now applies it to a motif inspired by the water spirits of Nordic folkore. The Sarpaneva Näkki has a hand-finished dial open worked to create over 650 apertures that are then filled by hand with luminous paint, creating a multi-coloured scene – with the brand’s trademark moon phase looming overhead – that is best appreciated in the dark. Initial thoughts The Näkki is quintessential Sarpaneva in combining the art and history of its home region along with the brand’s distinctive design. Though its style is similar to Sarpaneva’s past models, particularly last year’s Nocturne, the Näkki is more elaborate in terms of dial decoration and finishing. In fact, unlike past Sarpaneva models with Super-Luminova dials, the Näkki is almost as colourful during the day as a result of the pigmented lume that still has colour even when not luminescent. Dial aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Sarpaneva automatic, which means a high quality case and customised movement with an especially elaborate rotor made in-house. Though the movement itself is outsourced and no-frills, the execution of the rest of the components is high quality. At €21,000 before taxes, the Näkki is amongst the most expensive Sarpaneva watches. The price is arguably justified by the complexity of the dial, though it is probably close to the price ceiling...

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017 Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 We all Jul 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017

We all have unique origin stories about the watches that got us into the hobby, or the watches responsible for pulling us in deeper. As varied as those stories surely are, the overlap of appearances by a certain handful of watches is likely quite high. While not universal, I’d wager that the highest percentage of overlap is among Seiko watches, stuff like the SKX007, the 6139, and the Alpinist SARB017. Each of those references make appearances somewhere along the early stages of my own journey, and this Missed Review will focus specifically on that last one, the Alpinist SARB017, a watch that’s easy to take for granted these days. There was a time, however, when this watch had a near mythic appeal. In some ways, it still does.  The Alpinist holds an interesting place in Seiko history, and while the name may no longer exist formally, it still holds a tremendous amount of equity when it comes to Seiko field watches and their enthusiasts. The name itself dates back to the early ‘60s with the Laurel Alpinist and Champion Alpinist, though it wouldn’t appear on a modern design until 1995 with the so-called ‘red Alpinist’ SCVF references designed by Shigeo Sakai. It is this design that would set the template for the 2006 SARB references, and the current Prospex Land watches which no longer employ the Alpinist nomenclature. $700 [VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017 Case Stainless Steel Movement 6R15 Dial Almond Green Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Stra...

The ChaosMasters return - this time with different colour dials, and as a box set trio Time+Tide
Jul 17, 2023

The ChaosMasters return - this time with different colour dials, and as a box set trio

As you all no doubt know, it’s World Emoji Day 😵‍💫😎😅. That means two things. 1. Like me, you’re going, what? There’s a World Emoji Day? and 2. We have some pretty good news, that comes off the back of a difficult situation. You see, when we launched the ChaosMasters, back in November of last … ContinuedThe post The ChaosMasters return – this time with different colour dials, and as a box set trio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unboxing the Vacheron Constantin 222 - In Conversation with Christian Selmoni Revolution
Vacheron Constantin 222 - Jul 17, 2023

Unboxing the Vacheron Constantin 222 - In Conversation with Christian Selmoni

Join Wei and Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin, as they unveil Wei’s personal 222. In this engaging conversation, we’ll explore the fascinating history and design philosophy behind the Vacheron Constantin 222, which has earned its reputation as one of the most coveted sports watches in the watch world today and can […]

Dornblüth Marks 350 Years of Mitsukoshi with a Limited Edition SJX Watches
Jul 16, 2023

Dornblüth Marks 350 Years of Mitsukoshi with a Limited Edition

The small German independent was commissioned to produce a limited run of watches to the 350th anniversary of the oldest department store in the world, Mitsukoshi, which began as a kimono store in 1673. Designed in a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and watch retailer Shellman, the D. Dornblüth & Sohn Mitsukoshi 350th Anniversary retains the traditional Dornblüth aesthetic that evokes marine chronometers of the 19th century, but with a bronze-coloured dial. Initial thoughts  Not many will be overly familiar with D. Dornblüth & Sohn, but its Germanic aesthetic is reassuringly familiar. It was founded by a father and son watchmaking duo who learnt the trade restoring vintage timepieces, allow them to employ traditional techniques in making their watches. As a result, their work is customisable in terms of finishing and colours, though the pair have been able to maintain a clear brand identity throughout.  It would be easy to dismiss this watch. Only five will be made, and all sold through a Tokyo department store, but the curious combination of German sensibilities and restrained Japanese taste makes it one of the more intriguing offerings of this year. The Mitsukoshi edition channels the spirit of Dornblüth very well, but manages to stand apart from the typical Dornblüth thanks to its striking golden dial that contrast with the silvered dials found on the typical Dornblüth. One detail that is worth mentioning is the light touch co-branding. There is in f...

eBay Finds: Vintage Diver Chronographs, & One Full Kit Benrus Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Jul 13, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Diver Chronographs, & One Full Kit Benrus

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Wittnauer Geneve Starting this week off with a unique vintage Wittnauer Geneve. The 34mm stainless steel case has a neat octagonal design, one you don’t see often. I think they really pulled it off in this case (pun intended), especially with the large lug bevels. Case looks unpolished and still shows the brushed finish. The two-tone silver bullseye dial with crosshairs is a stunner, and in fantastic condition. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs, and that the movement is a manual wind. Speaking of which, the winding crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo to boot. View auction here. Vintage Omega Seamaster This vintage Omega Seamaster is a real beauty for those that love patina. This is housed in the classic fat lug, wide bezel Seamaster 34mm steel case that is so desired by Omega collectors. The fat lugs have nice, sharp chamfers as they should since the case is unpolished. It is sadly becoming more and more of a rarity to find an unpolished Seamaster. The dial has stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3 and 9, with slim arrows for the other markers, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This dial used to be a silver/white, but has developed a beaut...

The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona gets Jul 13, 2023

The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz

The rapper 2 Chainz is called “2 Chainz” because of his predilection for wearing, you guessed it, two chains. In other words, the hip-hop artist clearly takes his accessories very seriously. And that passion extends to his wristwear, too. “I like to carry around seven watches, because there’s seven days in a week,” he once … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

Tom Cruise adds a RLX Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master to his already strong collection Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master Jul 7, 2023

Tom Cruise adds a RLX Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master to his already strong collection

Regardless of how you feel about the man off-screen, Tom Cruise is irrefutably one of the greatest action movie stars of all time – if not the greatest. His dedication and innovation within the action film space is unrivalled, with him training for incredibly dangerous stunts and co-developing the means to perfectly shoot and capture … ContinuedThe post Tom Cruise adds a RLX Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master to his already strong collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial Worn & Wound
Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase Jul 3, 2023

Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial

Ming is back with an updated version of their 37.05, which you might remember was announced in late 2021 as the brand’s first watch with a moonphase complication. Ming has given the 37.05 Series 2 (which they’ve nicknamed the “Ad Astra”) a series of whimsical refinements that play on the inherent romance of a moonphase complication. Those aesthetic tweaks are, of course, uniquely Ming in nature, making use of their expanding proficiency with a variety of materials, and a rather ingenious use of high powered luminescent material.  You’ll immediately notice that the big change to the new 37.05 is with the dial. Ming has gone from a textured blue dial with a subtle moonphase indicator at the 6:00 position to an anthracite dial with prominent brushed finishing. Star shaped holes have been added to the dial, which fill in with lume as the moonphase disc rotates underneath. The 37.05 still uses a sapphire upper dial, which is where you’ll find hour markers, the moon “mask” which is used to define the phase of the moon, as well as plenty of inlaid HyCeram lume to provide a bit of a light show when fully charged. Ming notes that the stars on the sapphire upper dial have HyCeram lume applied to both the upper and lower surfaces for increased visual depth.  The 37.05 Series 2 is powered by the manually wound Sellita SW288-1, which is the same caliber used in the prior moonphase, and has been extensively reworked and decorated in the same fashion. The bridges have b...

MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition Time+Tide
Jul 3, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition

South Korea is not typically a country associated with watchmaking, despite a strong culture of manufacturing that has leapt in quality over the last two decades. That said, microbrands essentially exist to challenge our preconceptions of what’s possible for small companies to accomplish. Pitzmann certainly capture the imagination with their two releases The First Pitzmann … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their claim to be the South Korean value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.