Deployant
New: Hanhart Special Edition: Fly Navy Aerosphere
Hanhart releases a new special edition: the Fly Navy Aerosphere. Two references, each limited to 150 pieces. Eath in either fabric strap or steel bracelet.
Results for Above the Date Window
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SJX Watches
In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a union of almost everything that is associated with A. Lange & Söhne, from the Lumen treatment to the case metal. Appropriately enough, it was conceived to mark a milestone: the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, the brand’s trademark chronograph. While the impressive watch has nearly all of Lange’s signature elements, is it truly great? Initial thoughts The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is ambitious because it is an all-in-one limited edition. The watch is big, heavy, and flawlessly executed. It feels like an object of exceptional quality, and lives up to expectations under a loupe. It captures Lange as a brand in tangible terms. The long name is descriptive and sums up the key elements of the watch, almost all of which are unique to Lange. While the earlier versions were already extremely complicated, this goes a further by incorporating uniquely Lange livery with the Lumen dial and Lange’s own Honeygold alloy. Essentially everything synonymous with Lange can be found here. There’s the Datograph chronograph movement, outsized date, a hacking tourbillon with a cage that will be familiar to fans of German watchmaking, the tinted-and-luminous dial, and the case in Lange’s proprietary gold alloy. The only distinctively Lange features missing are Handwerkskunst decoration and a chain and fusee, either of which would have hoisted the price past the million-dollar mark. But the latest...
Deployant
New: Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Introducing the Lange & Heyne and introducing the 7 piece limited edition Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Quill & Pad
Cyrus Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon: Exotic Yet Surprisingly Practical
The Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon is, in many ways, a landmark model for Cyrus, marking the start of a new chapter.
SJX Watches
Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
Teddy Baldassarre
10 Small Watch Brands We're Paying Attention to in 2025
In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025. Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...
Monochrome
Portrait – Remembering Walter Lange of A. Lange & Söhne, on his 100th Birthday
Originally founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, Germany, A. Lange & Söhne has become over the past years one of the most important watchmakers of the Saxon region. The story of Lange Uhren GmbH is, however, not as simple as it seems and despite subsequent generations of the family keeping the brand […]
Worn & Wound
A New Casio Edifice Pays Tribute to a Motorsport Subculture
Casio is celebrating 50 years of TOM’s Racing with the release of a new racing-inspired chronograph. The Casio Edifice Sospensione TOM’s 50th Anniversary builds on Casio’s long history of technical, multi-function watches to deliver a fittingly contemporary watch that also references half a century of racing history. TOM’s Racing, for those not overly invested in the world of JDM tuner cars or Super GT, is a longstanding aftermarket parts manufacturer and tuner, primarily focused on Toyota and Lexus models. TOM’s Racing has also been heavily involved in competitive racing since day one, often acting as a tuning partner for factory race teams across racing divisions, and they have served as an official tuning shop for Toyota since 1975, just a year after their founding. This latest release from Edifice draws inspiration from one of TOM’s most iconic cars, the KP47 Starlet, which helped launch the brand onto the racing scene, winning touring car series championships in 1975, 1976, and 1978. With its vibrant livery, the KP47 has become somewhat of a mascot for the race house over the last five decades, so there’s no more fitting car for Casio to choose as inspiration for this limited edition. Edifice often gets overlooked by enthusiasts in favor of Casio’s other brand known for technical, multi-function watches, but pay close attention in the real world and you’ll see Edifice watches everywhere. Affordable, capable, and dripping in multi-functional goodness,...
Quill & Pad
Why Tim Mosso Sold (Nearly) All of his JLC Watches – Reasons and Regrets (Video)
Tim Mosso is like most collectors of luxury watches; he's bought, owned, and sold many brands and models of watch. Here Tim discusses the deeper reasoning behind the decision to sell each of his watches.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – 5 Accessible, Colourful and Robust Watches Ready for your Summer Trips
End of July, the sun is out, temperatures are rising and the sea is blue… This is the time of the year when a high-end dress watch doesn’t make much sense. Unless you’ll spend your holidays reading books in an air-conditioned library (no judgment, if that’s your thing), most of us will spend time next […]
Deployant
New: OMEGA Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition
The OMEGA Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a the brand's latest creation to celebrate the 2024 Olympic Games. Crafted with a nod to the Olympic medals, this watch features a 39mm case made from OMEGA's exclusive Bronze Gold, an alloy that includes gold, palladium, and silver, offering a unique hue that pays homage to the event's awards.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT Reviewed by Tim Mosso
Watches like the De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT aren’t exactly the backbone of the luxury watch hobby. Finding one is hard; buying one is harder. Tim Mosso takes a deep dive.
Teddy Baldassarre
Annual Calendar Watches Guide
Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...
Deployant
New: Arca Swiss Pico compact view camera
Independent camera maker, Arca Swiss releases a new compact view camera for high resolution digital photography. Here is the news on the Arca Swiss Pico.
Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger
Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....
Worn & Wound
Bulova is Seeing Red with their Latest Lunar Pilot
It’s officially Space Watch Season. We just saw G-SHOCK release their latest collaborative release with NASA, and now Bulova returns with a new version of their popular Lunar Pilot, this one in a “blood moon” colorway. While the Lunar Pilot doesn’t have “first watch on the moon” pedigree like the venerable Omega Speedmaster, it does have its own legitimate spacefaring history. In 1971, Dave Scott, mission commander of Apollo 15, wore a similar Bulova Chronograph when he became the seventh man to walk on the moon. Unlike the Speedmaster, which was conceived originally as a racing chronograph, the Bulova on Scott’s wrist was designed specifically for use in space, specifically for timing related to critical life support systems. The Lunar Pilot has some aesthetic similarities to the Speedmaster (in their purest form, they are both black dialed chronographs, after all) but Bulova has shown a willingness to experiment with the Lunar Pilot recently, and it now feels very much like its own thing, existing well outside the long shadow of the Speedy. This latest iteration is a good example of how Bulova uses this platform to play with color and our expectations for a sports watch like the Lunar Pilot should be. As you can plainly see from the images in this post, what we have here is a very red version of the Lunar Pilot, with a bright red main dial and three silvered subdials at 9:00, 3:00, and 6:00. The inspiration here, according to Bulova, is a total lunar ecli...
SJX Watches
Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1
Rumours started earlier this month that Rolex had “lost” its prime status as official timekeeper for Formula 1 to TAG Heuer. That, as it turns out, is not true – yet. According to a senior LVMH executive speaking off the record, a deal between F1 and the French luxury group – and not just one of its constituent brands – is close but not yet a done deal. This was also echoed by Jean-Jacques Guiony, LVMH chief financial officer, during a conference call with analysts to present the group’s second quarter financial results. In fact, any announcement of LVMH closing the deal will likely come after the Paris 2024 Olympics that counts LVMH as one of its lead sponsors. The situation is more than just Rolex “losing” the sponsorship to TAG Heuer. It’s not about the financial resources of Rolex, which for all intents and purposes are limitless, but about the breadth and depth of the LVMH portfolio, as well as Rolex’s growing emphasis on conservation as a key part of its brand. Three elements are crucial in understanding the sponsorship deal with F1, which is enjoying a revival in popularity with its hit Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive and new race locations like the Miami Grand Prix. The first is the matching clause that is common in such deals and will inevitably be part of the F1 sponsorship contract. This gives Rolex a matching right – it has the right to match a competing offer for the same sponsorship. In other words, if Rolex wanted to, it can...
Worn & Wound
Unimatic Introduces a Collection of Military Spec Tool Watches
Unimatic, the Italian watch brand known for bringing a contemporary design language to a variety of classic sports watch tropes, has just unveiled their new permanent collection, the Toolwatch Series. The new watches, at a glance, might not look all the different from previous Unimatic releases. This is not a rethinking of the brand’s aesthetic, and they are not trying anything completely revolutionary here. But the Toolwatch Series feels like a logical extension of what Unimatic has been up to since their founding all the way back in 2015, and could provide a new foothold for curious collectors to enter into the brand’s ecosystem. Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: Unimatic’s new watches are tailored to enthusiasts with “active, adventurous, lifestyles” who need their watch to keep up with the unusual demands of their lives. This is something we brands tell us all the time, and honestly I’ve gotten to the point where I tend to just glaze over any mention of “adventure” in a press release for a new watch. But it appears that Unimatic is putting their proverbial money where their watch is. Each watch in the Toolwatch Series meets what’s known as the MIL-STD-810 standard, which is a benchmark set by the United States military to guarantee the durability of items like watches that servicemembers rely on. What does that mean for the Toolwatch Series? It means that each watch goes through a battery of tests to ensure its robustness. Specifically, U...
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Vintage-Inspired Omega Makes Its Olympic Return In Bronze Gold
The BG859 is back in bronze gold for the 2024 Paris Olympics.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Kari Voutilainen's 20th Anniversary Tourbillon
Spending time with a platinum masterpiece to celebrate the platinum anniversary of one of the most influential independent watchmakers alive.
Worn & Wound
Top 5 Vintage Inspired Watches
Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. Vintage-inspired watches have been popular for a long time and with good reason. When a design is strong enough to stand the test of time, why shouldn’t it be revived? Look at Tudor’s success with the Black Bay, Oris with their Diver 65, and Doxa with their numerous Sub models. What about designs that originated in the 80s? Can they be considered vintage? Think about it: 1980 is as far away from us as 1936 was from 1980. That’s three full years before World War II even started! So, if anything made in the 1930s was considered vintage in the 1980s, most assuredly, things made in the 1980s are considered vintage now. If any of you feel old after reading that, here’s a list of 5 super-cool watches to make you feel young again. The post Top ...
Deployant
New: Laco Flieger Pro
Laco releases a new Flieger watch in two references with the now trendy ability to customise your watch via a configurator.
Fratello
Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention
This one won’t be easy. I do not often have to write about an important revolutionary invention like Horage and Miniswys’s Microreg. I could tell the story in a few words, but background clarification is necessary to understand its importance. So this article will initially be pretty theoretical and technical, but a beautiful watch will […] Visit Introducing: Horage × Miniswys Microreg - A Revolutionary Invention to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial
An unusual variation of the brand’s bestseller, the Joker Fiat Lux has a skeletonised dial revealing the signature Konstantin Chaykin “rolling eye” module that’s been decorated by hand. Fiat lux is Latin for “let there be light”, and a reference to the see-through dial. It’s limited to 38 pieces and intended for the brand’s retailer in China, West Wood Time in Beijing. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker has become a cult classic of sorts and the brand’s strongest seller by far. Since the launch of the original Joker in 2017, it has evolved into an entire collection known as Wristmon, short for “wrist monster”. The brand has put out many, many different Wristmons since, though the original is arguably the purest (while some variants are admittedly gimmicky). Being based on the original, the Joker Fiat Lux stands out. It is almost the same as the original, with identical dimensions, design, and functions, but with a skeletonised dial and an exhibition back, both of which make it more aesthetically pleasing than the original. The dial is skeletonised to show off the display module The Joker Fiat Lux is priced similar to comparable past Wristmon models. It’s relatively affordable for a distinctive and unique example of unconventional independent watchmaking – seen that from that perspective, it is good value. Though the base movement is a no-frills ETA 2824-2, but the display module is built by Chaykin and furthermore hand finished. The ine...
Quill & Pad
New Czapek & Cie Promenade Collection: Ripples and Rays
The “Goutte d’Eau” technique used in Czapek & Cie’s new Promenade watch collection shines a new light on the grand feu enamel effect, evoking ripples radiating from a water droplet hitting a pond’s surface.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss watch bracelets and cover a wide range of subtopics about these important devices that fasten watches to our wrists. It’s another listener suggestion, and we hope you enjoy the show! For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. Watch bracelets […] Visit Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets to read the full article.
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon for Sincere
Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Quill & Pad
Garrick Regulator MK II: A British Revolution
With the Regulator MK II you can see the development that Garrick has been through in just five short years. Regulator MK II is not an evolution but a revolution!
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK’s Latest NASA Themed Watch is Here
This past weekend marked the 55th anniversary of the moon landing, unquestionably one of the greatest achievements in the history of humanity. When Neil Armstrong set foot on the lunar surface, it changed the world forever. We all know the story of Omega, the Speedmaster, and how that chronograph became the “moonwatch,” but there are plenty of other brands and watches that have attempted to jump on the moon landing and NASA bandwagon in some way. Some of these are successful, some of them are not. But one series of releases that I’ve always thought of as genuinely pretty charming are G-SHOCK’s NASA themed watches, the fifth iteration of which was recently unveiled. I think one of the reasons these watches work is because you could argue that NASA and G-SHOCK are organizations that share a certain ethos of problem solving rooted in science. NASA, of course, is in the business of solving problems related to the foundations of physics. The fundamental challenge of getting to the moon, after all, is escaping the earth’s gravity. There’s no moonshot if you can’t get out of low earth orbit. G-SHOCK, on the other hand, has a far more niche interest: creating the most indestructible, shock resistant watch possible. Through materials research and a lot of trial and error, they’ve been the kings of tough watches for decades. The new GW6900-NASA241 takes design inspiration from an unusual but appropriate source: old-school Casio calculators. You can imagine that a...