Hodinkee
Happenings: Christian Selmoni To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Vacheron Constantin Heritage & Style Director will discuss the notion of time and the ingenuity devoted to its measurement.
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Hodinkee
The Vacheron Constantin Heritage & Style Director will discuss the notion of time and the ingenuity devoted to its measurement.
Hodinkee
What we had on this year, and why.
Hodinkee
The film’s prop master talks Cartier, Swatch, and Francis Ford Coppola’s Rolex
Hodinkee
Eight real women pair show-stopping fashion with some of the year's best watches.
Hodinkee
The limited edition Zenith El Primero Revival G381, limited to just 50 pieces to honor the 50th anniversary of the game-changing El Primero movement, is priced at $19,200 and beautifully recaptures the shining early years of the automatic high-speed chronograph.
Hodinkee
Introducing a new, limited edition dive watch manufactured by Blancpain for HODINKEE. Pieces are numbered, and available exclusively in the HODINKEE Shop and select Blancpain boutiques.
SJX Watches
A clock and automaton maker whose timekeepers have taken the form of a running leopard and race car, John-Mikaël Flaux has just unveiled his most complex creation to date. Hand made from brass and steel, Le Cabré is a mechanical sculpture of a rearing Arabian horse with a key-wound clock in its base that doubles as a “mysterious trigger” for the automaton. Initial thoughts Le Cabré is very much mechanical objet d’art – handmade and hand finished, while being complex and extravagant. Automaton-clocks like this have long been part of independent watchmaking, but are typically little appreciated, largely due to their cost (and the necessity of having an office or house grand enough to install one of them). But the craft that goes into creating one is easily understood. Le Cabré is made up of 450 parts, three-quarters hand made by the clockmaker himself, a process that requires 1,500 hours of work according to Mr Flaux. Priced at a little over US$160,000, Le Cabré is substantially more expensive than Mr Flaux’s prior creations, but it is also substantially more complex. At the same time, considerably more lavish automaton clocks that are made of precious metal and decked out in precious stones traditionally have price tags in the millions, making this relatively affordable. Equine ballet Standing 24 cm, or a bit under 10″, Le Cabré is made up of a horse automaton protected by a glass case, sitting on a wood base. It was conceived by Mr Flaux in collaboration...
Revolution
Beautiful, bronze, on a bracelet and boutique-only. Is this the Black Bay that everybody has been waiting for? Ross Povey takes us on a guided tour of Tudor’s latest offering…
Quill & Pad
The click spring is one of the smaller components of a mechanical watch, but it is of enormous importance. Ever wondered why the crown doesn’t retaliate furiously and unwind every time you crank it? Without the click spring, a wound mainspring would immediately – and explosively – uncoil like a raging viper in a hat box.
SJX Watches
A devoted supporter of environmental causes, Rolex has evolved from evolved from backing explorers who ventured into the unknown to bankrolling their modern-day equivalents who seek to save the planet from climate change. Now Rolex is bringing its conservation efforts to light on an easily accessible channel. On World Oceans Day that took place earlier this month, Heroes of the Ocean made its premiere on YouTube and rolex.org (or you can watch it further down). The documentary part of Perpetual Planet, the wide-ranging initiative established by Rolex in 2019 to back a variety of conservationists. Presented by noted oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle – an octogenarian who’s been a Rolex Testimonee for over four decades – the hour-long documentary explains mankind’s impact on the oceans, and eight individuals working to combat that. With magnificent videography and stirring music, the film uncovers the work of the marine scientists and activists. From planting corals to empowering the next generation of conservationists, each of the scientists and activists featured in the film is on a mission to improve the health of the oceans. Dr Sylvia Earle founded Mission Blue, an organisation set up marine protected areas around the world Persuasive storytelling I watched the movie and enjoyed it – and you will too – as the production quality is impressive and its content inspirational. It captures the grandeur and beauty of marine life, enough to inspire the casual reader t...
SJX Watches
A Spanish brand that got its start in 2016, Ophion has refined its offerings substantially since then. Two years ago Ophion debuted its third and most accomplished model, the OPH 786 Vélos. Though based on the original OPH 786 that has a hand-wind movement with a five-day power reserve, the Vélos does everything better. While the design relies on familiar elements like Breguet numerals and teardrop lugs, the Vélos boasts notably fine details. The Breguet numerals, for instance, are applied and elegantly formed, while the guilloche is tidily engraved. But the Vélos gets there almost entirely by machine, mostly CNC milling, which means it is more affordable than it looks, with the guilloche version priced at about US$3,700. Initial thoughts The Vélos is a good looking watch. Admittedly, the look is fairly generic in its classical design, but it has charm, especially considering the quality of execution relative to the price. A strong value proposition is the best way to describe the Vélos. Even though it is made entirely by machine, the dial is the best feature of the watch. It boasts a strongly three-dimensional appearance, thanks to the substantially-sized appliqués. And because the dial parts are made by machine, they are precisely shaped, which gives it an expensive look. The movement is also a key factor behind the value proposition. It’s a solid calibre with useful features, including a five-day power reserve. And it has been extensively customised for ...
Time+Tide
Radio shock jock Kyle Sandilands has built a wildly successful career out of being brash and obnoxious. Last week the king of Sydney’s FM airwaves celebrated his 50th birthday in true Kyle style. To mark the big five-oh, the former presenter of Big Brother and Australian Idol rented a modest “super-yacht” to tour the waters … ContinuedThe post Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Three years after its inception, Patek Philippe finally introduces a gold variant to the Aquanaut Chronograph model, the Ref. 5968G in khaki and blue.
Revolution
Wei Koh dials in with Hamilton Watch Company’s CEO, Vivian Stauffer to chat over the story of the Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze and find out all of its latest iteration, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Bronze, which is now available to buy on the Revolution Shop, for a limited period.
Time+Tide
If you’ve already turned your horological nose up at the S word in the headline above, please remind yourself of the title of this column. T&T; teems with timepieces that will set back four, five and even six figures – if that’s you, congrats on the start-up/inheritance/proceeds of crime. If, however, you feel like adding … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
After their successful debut collection, RZE are back with their second set of hard-wearing tool watches in the Endeavour collection. Despite releasing their first watches less than a year ago, the RZE Endeavour collection is working to confirm the brand’s young reputation as a manufacturer of bullet-proof everyday watches. With some unique design elements to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
John Howe has created many an iconic dragon for J.R.R. Tolkien works over the years, so it was appropriate for him to craft something radiating the same energy and history for Jaquet Droz. The result is the new limited-edition Petite Heure Minute Dragon, a watch perfectly combining two of Joshua Munchow's passions in one incredible object.
Time+Tide
I love vintage reissues, especially smaller sizes truer to the originals, but do you know what? When you appreciate the delights of 36-38mm watches, you’ll also find that the joy is threefold. There are real bargains to be found on the pre-loved market, the comfort is sublime, plus you also have a better chance of … ContinuedThe post Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value – this TAG Heuer Chronograph is the solid-gold proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Cracking the seal on the box of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye revealed a deep and constantly shifting play of light as the stone dial caught the afternoon light coming in through the window. Over the days that GaryG had the watch for shooting, it became his quest to capture the variety of moods conjured up by this dial. And we think he has done just that.
Deployant
The Breitling Premier Datora is Breitling's take on a calendar chronograph with moon-phase. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Datora displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Datora comes in stainless steel with a copper dial or in 18k red gold with a silver dial. “Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and moonphase.
Time+Tide
How could a mechanical wristwatch be more modern than an smartwatch? As any high school debater will tell you, it depends how you define your terms, but that is exactly the question Jason Fried, the Founder & CEO at Basecamp, asked in a recent blog post. His argument? Well, it all boils down to how … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We caught up with Reinhard Meis, the almost forgotten hero of the early Lange years, and managed to get him to talk to us about his work and philosophy.
SJX Watches
Introduced in 2018 but put on hold until recently, the Skafander adapts Franck Muller’s trademark tonneau watch case for a dive watch. Getting its name from “scaphander”, an archaic term for a diving suit, the Skafander has been facelifted just as it reaches stores in both stainless steel or titanium. Initial thoughts Brash and bold watch, the Skafander is much typical of Franck Muller’s current style. At first glance, the design might seem derivative, bringing to mind the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, and of course various Richard Mille models. But it was Franck Muller that made the tonneau case a thing in contemporary watchmaking with the Cintree Curvex – Cartier, on the other hand, invented the shape in 1906 – so the brand has every right to the shape. In fact, the Cintree Curvex was one of the “it” watches of the 1990s, so successful it arguably inspired all tonneau watches in 21st century watchmaking. Complicated and mechanical in style, the Skafander has a partially open-worked dial, which doesn’t help legibility, but it’s very much the style for modern sport watches. The Skafander manages to set itself apart amongst watches in this genre, by way of its case shape and inner rotating bezel. And priced at about US$15,000 (or 23,800 Singapore dollars), it’s relatively pricey, but on par with comparable dive watches from Hublot. The Skafander in brushed titanium Tonneau case, round bezel The Skafander’s key feature results from matching a rotatin...
Revolution
There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.
SJX Watches
Two years after the base-model Royal Oak got was revamped with a latest-generation, in-house movement, Audemars Piguet has quietly updated its chronograph counterpart. Though it might seem barely changed at a glance, the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26239 is very much a different watch, and one that’s tangibly improved. Launched earlier this year, the new Royal Oak Chronograph retains the recognisable style of its predecessor and is seemingly alike, save for a crucial detail. The chronograph registers have been lightly revised, giving away its most important upgrade – the cal. 4401 inside that’s the first in-house calibre found in the Royal Oak Chronograph. The new movement made possible a redesigned dial that is subtly different, but substantially better. Studying the dial layout of a chronograph is an exercise in details, but it reveals how proportions are crucial to beauty. There aren’t many chronographs on the market today with perfect proportions, simply because most movements in use today were designed years ago for smaller cases and dials. The dial on the new Royal Oak Chronograph, however, stands out as an excellent example that is almost perfect. Initial thoughts With half a dozen new calibres having made their debut with the Code 11.59 in 2019, from time-only to tourbillon, Audemars Piguet has a stable of latest-generation movements that are being progressively installed in the Royal Oak. Two years ago, the three-hand ref. 15500 was the first Royal Oak t...
Revolution
Introducing Patek Philippe Perpetual Minute Repeaters Ref. 5304/301R and 5374G
Revolution
Omega is working through all of its collections in 2021 with major updates and addition, up next is an update to the Aqua Terra
Time+Tide
I do love the idea of a ceramic watch in bold colours like the flashy drama of Hublot or Rado’s latest twist on the Captain Cook. But I’m still waiting for the first budget version of this cool material to try on for size. The new Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic series might present the Swiss … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Cartier Crash is a bit of an enigma in the history of the French brand. The story behind its Salvador Dali-esque design is far-fetched – a Cartier Tank was returned for repair to the London boutique after being in a car crash, the unusual shape the result of the gold melting in the heat … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...
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