Deployant
New: Ba1110d returns to its roots with Chapter 7
Ba111od celebrates their 4th Anniversary with yet another very attractive, modestly priced Swiss made watch - the Chapter 7.
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Deployant
Ba111od celebrates their 4th Anniversary with yet another very attractive, modestly priced Swiss made watch - the Chapter 7.
Worn & Wound
Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...
10/10 is back on Hodinkee. Last year, we sold Rolex at retail every hour for ten hours. This year, we’re offering a day of the best deals, drops, and surprises to ever land in our digital storefront. Find the latest news on Hodinkee’s 10/10 here.
SJX Watches
In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Constellation is not only the Swiss luxury brand’s oldest collection (if we’re tracing the Seamaster back to its first “Professional” dive-watch model in 1957); it’s also the dressiest, with a design heritage that hinges on two classic and very iconoclastic watches from two distinctively different eras: the cult-classic original from the 1950s and the influential revamp in the 1980s. Here’s an in-depth look at the Omega Constellation, its half-century-plus of revolutionary design, and what the collection looks like today. 1952: Making a Pie Omega, founded in 1848 by an ambitious young Swiss watchmaker named Louis Brandt, celebrated its 100th anniversary in the postwar year of 1948. The most memorable watch the company released during that milestone year, most would agree, was the first Seamaster, which introduced the innovative waterproof system that would give rise to today’s sprawling Seamaster Professional collection of dive watches. A rarer and more obscure timepiece introduced that year was the Centenary, Omega’s first chronometer-certified wristwatch. An iconoclastic gold dress watch, highly limited in production, the Centenary took its name from the 100-year anniversary it commemorated and its design would provide the template of a collection that would debut several years later, in 1952, called the Constellation. (Both the Seamaster and the Centenary, incidentally, were the brainchildren of watch designer René Bannwart, who would go on to...
Deployant
We bring you breaking news of a new watch born out of the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia.
Worn & Wound
Unimatic’s enigmatic dive watch, the Modello Uno, is largely celebrated for its simple design that’s almost conceptual in nature, with minimal representative elements that deconstruct the normal design cues we expect from such a watch. They are beautiful as a result, but never quite rose to the realm of practical dive watch. Unimatic captures an experience, and they do so quite effectively. If you enjoy the Unimatic vibe, but need something a little more performance oriented, their latest releases within the Modello Uno range look to cover new ground. These are the ProDivers references, the U1S-PD3 and U1S-PD5, pairing Unimatic design to a more funcion driven platform. The pair of watches are straightforward in nature, but instantly recognizable as Unimatic thanks to their strong design language. In practice, these watches bring a lot to the table, and for the first time feel like a viable option as ‘tool’ divers. The biggest step is the inclusion of a fully indexed bezel for measuring elapsed time, a departure from the generally sterile bezel units fitted to these watches. Additionally, the robust case design, which is rated to 300 meters in the PD3, and to 500 meters in the PD5, are presented in a new slimmer package underneath a 2.5mm thick double-domed sapphire crystal. A redesigned crown tube with locking system allows for the impressive depth ratings in both cases. Both watches utilize a 40mm steel case that measures 41.5mm at the width of the 120 click bez...
Deployant
Seiko releases two limited editions that pay tribute to their historical field watches. Introducing the Land and Landmaster.
SJX Watches
After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...
Time+Tide
Sporting a blue ceramic as part of IWC's Colours of Top Gun collection, the Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Oceana is the perfect casual watch.The post IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Oceana appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The theme of many of this week's releases is a return to more vintage proportions... But those with more substantial wrists need not worry, either.The post New releases from anOrdain, Baltic, Audemars Piguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 39 is a versatile and elegant sport watch that combines the minimalist style and Bauhaus sensibility of the brand with a robust and water-resistant case. The watch features a thin and smooth stainless steel case with long,
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko 5 Sports 6119-6400 Day Date Starting off this week with a sweet vintage Seiko 5 Sports diver. This one is really cool, with a round, UFO style steel case that has a simple black external bezel but an internal rotating elapsed time bezel. The black dial is clean with lume filled steel baton hour markers. The correct crown is recessed at 4 o’clock which gives it a clean look. The Hardlex crystal has some scratches, but you can find replacements with a little eBay searching. These models are usually beaten to a pulp, but this one is about as clean as you’ll find. The bracelet isn’t original unfortunately, but the watch is still on point. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Here we have a gorgeous vintage Bulova dress watch. This beauty is from 1950, and the fancy “knotted” lugs are the hero for sure. The 29mm case is in pretty good shape, with little wearthrough on the 10k gold plate case. The two-tone silver dial looks to be original and has only a light, even patina which looks fantastic. Gold dauphine hands round out the look. The Bulova caliber 10BC manual wind movement is clean and the seller states it runs well. Really an amazing and stylish Mid-Century Mod Bulova dre...
Hodinkee
It's the last of Daniels' Millennium series – double signed – and the very first in the Co-Axial Anniversary series by Smith for Daniels, representing the best of British watchmaking.
Worn & Wound
Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history. Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...
Deployant
Yema celebrates their 75th Anniversary with a new in-house tourbillon with mareographe set at the very attractive price of USD 9,999.
Time+Tide
Have you ever dreamed of designing your own watch? I sure have, but as much of an enthusiast as I am, I do not have the tools or knowledge to do so. If I could, the best-case scenario would be the ability to create watches uninhibited and unencumbered by conglomerate politics and red tape. Full … ContinuedThe post Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jamie and Borna were lucky enough to go driving supercars with Grand Seiko. Must be nice.The post Going for a ‘Spring Drive’ with Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Raman Kalra initially preferred the Grand Seiko Skyflake case shape over the Snowflake, and found the light blue dial attractive. However, after considering Grand Seiko more seriously, he looked at a range of references. and it didn’t take him long to find the SBGA415 Winter.
Hodinkee
Plus the perfect dress watch from A. Lange & Söhne and a green Cartier Santos.
Revolution
We had the distinct privilege of hosting two influential luminaries from the next generation of watchmaking leaders: Jean Arnault, the Marketing and Product Director for Watches at LVMH, and Alexandre Mille, the Sales Director of Richard Mille and the son of the brand’s founder, join us to delve into their respective journeys, the foundational principles […]
Time+Tide
In the first episode of The Lineup, Zach and Marcus discover five French watch brands they've never heard of.The post 5 French watch brands you’ve never heard of but should know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Following its collaboration with Czapek & Cie., Collective Horology, the California-based watch club founded in 2018 by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, is back with their eighth limited edition, the Montblanc X Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph, named the ‘BLUE ARROW’. The genesis of this design can be traced to the fortuitous discovery of […]
Worn & Wound
Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside. According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...
Deployant
Interesting followup to a watch created in 2008 by Markus Bühler, now adapted with a tourbillon: the IWC Big Pilot's Watch Tourbillon "Markus Bühler"
Time+Tide
The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet makes its first-ever debut in a 38mm size with ivory and purple hues.The post Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet debuts in new 38mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Your feedback has helped shape the evolution of T+T over the past 10 years, and will now help direct the next exciting phase of our growth as a 'go-to' for all things watches.The post We need YOU to answer this survey… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...
Worn & Wound
There are many things we love about the Fall season in New York. Crisp temperatures mean we can finally add another layer to our dayfits for pleasure (before necessity). After our biggest Windups in San Francisco and Chicago this year, Fall in New York completes the final third of our Windup Watch Fair trifecta. The very first Windup Watch Fair was here in NYC. In 2015, we brought 14 brands into a small shop in SoHo. We could only hope that the energy we saw in the comments of our articles and from the independent brands we covered would translate into a worthwhile in-person experience with you, our readers. What an experience you’ve made! A quick equation on a classic CA-53W-1CR will show this year’s Windup Watch Fair NYC is more than 5 times larger than our initial endeavor in Soho. We’re welcoming over 80 brands to two levels of the Altman Building-adding even more to explore after last year’s festivities. This free event is a permanent fixture for our Fall season. We’re so excited to share it with you. WINDUP WATCH FAIR NEW YORK The Altman Building – 135 W 18th St, New York, NY 10011 October 20– 12pm to 6pm October 21 – 12pm to 6pm October 22 – 12pm to 5pm Five lead sponsors, Bulova, Christopher Ward, G-Shock, Oris, and Zodiac, will be showcasing their latest releases from a year of innovation and collaboration. Beyond releases, be sure to look for additional online programming happening over the three days. Thanks in large part to our lead spon...
Hodinkee
Getting up close and personal with the auction's most exciting creations.
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