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Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom

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Hands On: Niton Prima SJX Watches
May 8, 2026

Hands On: Niton Prima

Recently revived Genevan haute horlogerie brand Niton jumps into the jumping hours market with the Prima — one of the more refined high-end examples of the industry’s latest favourite complication. It features a bespoke, shaped calibre that proudly carries the Poinçon de Genève — true to its inspiration — and is packed with creative choices and features. Initial thoughts Not long ago it seemed like 2025 would go down as the year of the jump hour, but the trend was evidently just getting started. The Niton Prima exemplifies this ongoing trend with surprising elegance and historical fidelity. As a rule of thumb, I view revival brands with a degree of scepticism; I would prefer people make a name for themselves rather than buying one. However, the Niton Prima shows a clear understanding of — and passion for — the source material, so I am satisfied this is not a mere cash-grab. It doesn’t hurt that the watch is excellent inside and out, and while expensive in absolute terms, it is fairly priced for what you get. The movement deserves special mention as the source of much of the appeal, being a true shaped movement — a very handsome one at that — and a competent timekeeper. It is finely finished with a plethora of interesting and clever features, including hidden screws for joining the bridges and mainplate, a small seconds hand that stops itself at 60 after the crown is pulled, and a sonnerie au passage to enhance the sound of the jump hour. Another point i...

In Partnership - Video: Ben Clymer, Georges Kern Discuss Universal Genève’s Revival At Watches & Wonders Hodinkee
Breitling CEO May 1, 2026

In Partnership - Video: Ben Clymer, Georges Kern Discuss Universal Genève’s Revival At Watches & Wonders

Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It's been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that's been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I've watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront. I don't think there's been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don't think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park. Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor...

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One SJX Watches
Voutilainen May 1, 2026

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement.  Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Apr 23, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Bringing Three Mega Pateks to Its Spring Sales

We'll have further auction coverage in the coming weeks, but it's worth giving Phillips a bit more attention, as it continues to lead in year-over-year sales. The auction house sold a record total of over $290 million in watches last year and has had five years in a row with over $200 million in sales. The market has shifted (I'd argue at least twice) in the past few years, but despite the growing F.P. Journe, independent, and pocket watch (yes, pocket watch) markets, the top lots for Phillips continue to be Patek Philippe. At each of their spring auctions, Phillips is selling an important Patek to headline the sale, and each is the kind of watch that could be the pinnacle of the world's top collections. Normal caveat here: I haven't seen these watches in person yet, and anyone considering bidding should make sure to check any watch in person if at all possible. A Patek Philippe ref. 2523 Two-Crown World Time With Cloissoné Enamel South America Dial First, we have the star of Geneva, to be sold on May 9: the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 two-crown world time with cloisonné enamel map of South America, from 1953. Aside from rare variants of 2499s or 1518s (and a few repeaters), these two-crown watches, with their incredible, angular lugs and giant open canvas at the center of the dial, have become the holiest of Holy Grails for many collectors. They are rare enough to be hunted and coveted, but there are also enough out there to be studied, understood, and codified. Too rare o...

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor Hodinkee
Urban Jürgensen Apr 22, 2026

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor

Timothée Chalamet has gotten really deep into independent watchmaking lately. He's shown up at press events, basketball games, and on the red carpet, wearing everything from a Simon Brette to a Franck Muller and even an Akrivia AK-06. He's also been wearing a neo-vintage Urban Jürgensen from time to time. But it seems like he's always rotated back to his trusty Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the time-only watch that launched with the brand's revival last summer. He wore the watch promoting the movie Marty Supreme, and again later, when he won the Golden Globe for Best Male Actor in a Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy for that same film. And now, in a move that makes his passion for the brand official, he's gotten on board as a minority partner and creative advisor. Timothée Chalamet wears an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 as he attends the 83rd annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton on January 11, 2026 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images) In a press release provided by the brand, Alex Rosenfield, CEO of Urban Jürgensen, says that Chalamet's passion for independent watchmaking isn't just him hopping on a trend, but rather a part of his passion for craft and quality of work. "We want to work together to advance our mission of bringing a contemporary perspective to the world of independent watchmaking while remaining grounded in what has always defined it," says Rosenfield. The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, UJ-1, and UJ-3, from our story on the brand rev...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Introducing: TAG Heuer Formula 1 'Solargraph' Softens Up With New Pastels Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Softens Apr 21, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer Formula 1 'Solargraph' Softens Up With New Pastels

What We Know It's easy to argue that the relaunch of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 (with the added bonus of a solar-powered movement) was both highly anticipated and resulted in one of the most fun summer watches of 2025. Some of the watches stuck around, and some were short-term limited editions tied to different Formula 1 races throughout the year. But if you were waiting for alternative watches (especially vintage-inspired ones), you're in luck, because the brand has dozens of previous variations they haven't tapped to re-release yet. So with that in mind, TAG Heuer has gone for more pastel-inspired releases that start pre-sale on April 28. The new Formula 1 models come in five variations. In a pastel blue, beige/yellow, or pink TH-Polylight cases (TAG Heuer's proprietary bio-polyamide plastic) that are color matched to their opaline dials and Polylight bezels or with sandblasted steel cases with violet-blue dials/bezel with pink accents or pastel green dials/bezels (with eight VS-grade diamonds in place of the circular hour markers), there's a lot of variations available. There's no doubt that these watches lean a bit more feminine than previous releases. The sizing is pretty unisex, however, measuring 38mm by 9.9mm with solid casebacks and screw-down crowns, giving the watch 100m of water resistance. The watches with the Polylight cases come on color-matched rubber straps with pin buckles, while the stainless steel versions have matching sandblasted stainless steel three-ro...

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update SJX Watches
Tudor s Classic Black Bay Apr 17, 2026

Tudor’s Classic Black Bay 58 Gets an Update

Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps. Initial thoughts Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic.  This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown.  A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format.  Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans.  Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet ...

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Goes Fully Dark SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Ceramic Apr 15, 2026

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Goes Fully Dark

A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch.  Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition.  Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look.  Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable - it really is - but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch.  This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ceramic casing mig...

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Gains a Matching Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Ceramic Apr 15, 2026

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Gains a Matching Ceramic Bracelet

A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 7941A1ACNU) delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch.  Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition.  Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look.  Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable — it really is — but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch.  This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ...

IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection SJX Watches
IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection Apr 15, 2026

IWC Expands Ingenieur 35 Collection

True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...

Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years with 50 Year-Old Valjoux 23 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1436 “Tasti Tondi” Mar 31, 2026

Raymond Weil Marks 50 Years with 50 Year-Old Valjoux 23

Building on the success of its retro wristwatch, Raymond Weil is marking its 50th anniversary with the Millesime “The Fifty”. While it retains the familiar “sector” dial of the Millesime, the Fifty boasts upgraded mechanics in the form of a “new old stock” Valjoux 236 dating from 1976, the year of brand’s founding by the eponymous Raymond Weil. The Fifty combines the vintage movement with a thoughtful design that includes an appropriately sized 37 mm case – steel but with a white gold bezel no less – and novel texturing on the “sector” dial. Notably, the Fifty is also priced well at under CHF9,000. Initial thoughts The base model Millesime is good for what it is, combining an appealing design with an affordable price. The Fifty is more expensive, but arguably even better, because it still has an appealing aesthetic, but now with an excellent movement and a fair price. Watches powered by a vintage Valjoux 23 usually cost more – Singer Reimagined’s equivalent costs almost double – making the Fifty a good value proposition. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that it evokes the Patek Philippe ref. 1436 “Tasti Tondi”. But it’s more than just accessible; the design of the basic Millesime has been elaborated on in a concise and logical manner. The result is a watch that clearly resembles the standard model, but with finer details, including the linear patterning on the dial centre. I disagree with some minor details, like the luminous hands that don...

Baltic’s Affordable Heures du Monde Worldtimer SJX Watches
Baltic s Affordable Heures du Mar 31, 2026

Baltic’s Affordable Heures du Monde Worldtimer

The value-forward, design-savvy French micro-brand Baltic debuts its first worldtimer, the Heures du Monde with a trio of stone dials – sodalite, tiger’s eye and labradorite, each limited to 200 pieces as a lead up to a future regular production version. It’s a fully functional and sharp-looking vintage-styled worldtimer, with a modern set of features that includes a brushed ceramic bezel, plenty of lume, and a surprising 100m depth rating, for a reasonable price. Initial thoughts Stone dials and worldtimers are each in vogue, and it is only natural to combine the two – especially as worldtimers as a genre are predisposed to vibrant dials, such as enameling, engine turning, or miniature painting. It doesn’t hurt that the Heueres du Monde is a competent watch and fair value proposition over all. Baltic pitches the model as an homage to the work of Louis Cottier, who invented the format. It specifically takes after his earliest worldtimers, which comprised a simple 24-hour disk geared to the hands, and a rotating bezel with the names of cites arrayed around its perimeter. The sodalite, tiger’s Eye and labradorite dials are tasteful, fit the overall watch, and will no doubt age better than many other stone dial offerings from micro-brands today. That said, it was the probably the right decision on Baltic’s part to make these colourways limited, as it doesn’t fit with what I suspect is a more vintage, rather than neo-vintage, vision for the model. Given the br...

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer Worn & Wound
Omega s New Constellation Observatory Mar 27, 2026

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer

Omega pleased a lot of dress watch and vintage fans this week when they launched the new Constellation Observatory collection at their Swiss headquarters. Zach Weiss is on the ground in Bielle even as we speak getting hands-on with the new watches, and he’ll have a full hands on report with his own photography coming soon. For now, a quick rundown of the new collection, and why it’s a fairly major play for the brand.  The Constellation is a historic Omega collection that has changed a lot through the years, always remaining flexible with the current styles and trends of the day. This collection, though, is a direct shot at the hearts and minds of Omega purists, as its effectively a recreation of the original 1950s Constellation in its broad strokes. The cases and dials will be familiar to anyone who has collected or admired original Constellations, with highly angular cases and distinctive dogleg lug design.  That said, these are not one to one recreations of watches from the 1950s. The cases, on paper at least, are rather large for what most would agree is a riff on a classic dress watch. The diameter is 39.4mm, and case height is 12.23mm. The lug to lug span comes in at 47.2mm. So, not small by any means, but we’ll look forward to Zach’s impressions of how they actually wear soon enough.  As is typical with Omega these days, we have a wide variety of case material and dial options available. We get all three gold alloys that Omega likes to deploy (Sedna, Canop...

Seiko Launches a Pair of Updated Marinemasters with their Higher End 8L45 Movement Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches Mar 19, 2026

Seiko Launches a Pair of Updated Marinemasters with their Higher End 8L45 Movement

A common critique leveled at Seiko over these last few years is that they’ve abandoned the affordable enthusiast dive watch market and have been creeping toward a higher priced product. Honestly, it’s fair. Those of us of a certain age can fondly remember the days when an SKX diver could be had for a few hundred bucks, and it basically stood alone in the Venn diagram of pedigree, dive watch bona fides, enthusiast credibility, and affordability. The fact is, there’s a lot of competition for affordable divers these days, much of it driven by the popularity of a handful of key Seiko references.  So it’s no wonder that they’ve sought to expand their footprint elsewhere and make a higher end, more expensive product. What often gets lost in these conversations is that the higher priced Seiko divers are actually very good dive watches that still cover much of that hypothetical Venn diagram, perhaps leaning a little further away from affordability. Seiko recently announced a handful of new references and while many of us hoped a truly affordable SKX alternative might be in the mix, they’ve once again debuted a new diver at a higher rung of their pricing ladder.  The highlight for collectors and serious Seiko fans will likely be the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch (the official Seiko naming conventions are always a bit cumbersome). Yes, this is yet another mostly historically accurate take on the first ever diver rated to 300 meters of water r...

A Legend is Born: Squale Just Dropped a New 37mm Diver Worn & Wound
Squale Mar 19, 2026

A Legend is Born: Squale Just Dropped a New 37mm Diver

If you have been following us for a while, you are likely well versed in Squale’s divers, vintage-inspired designs, and limited edition runs. The brand has quietly been a leader in the realm of dive watches since the 60s with a cult following from hardcore dive watch nerds. In the past decade in particular, Squale has been getting more and more traction and recognition. In 2019, the brand notched its 60th anniversary and with that, introduced a new collection: the Sub-39. This limited edition fittingly paid homage to Squale’s early 1960s divers, using an original prototype with a 39mm case as reference. Following its success, the brand ultimately made the Sub-30 a permanent collection, upping the ante with COSC-certification and complications like a GMT. Today, we get the next evolution with the Sub-37 Legend. Focusing on the brand’s core tenants – proportions, function, and character – the new slightly sized down 37mm diver emphasizes form over function in a way that is faithful to the golden age of diving, an era when watches were designed to perform rather than to impress. Beginning with the dial, you have a fairly quintessential execution in matte black with a sapphire glass-box crystal reminiscent of vintage plexiglass while ensuring durability and optimal dial legibility. Visibility remains at the forefront of this utilitarian design with both the dial and hands treated with SuperLumiNova Old Radium. Framing the dial is a clean, highly readable unidirection...

Fratello Talks: Does Resale Value Affect How Much You Enjoy A Watch? Fratello
Mar 19, 2026

Fratello Talks: Does Resale Value Affect How Much You Enjoy A Watch?

It’s a question that comes up from time to time in today’s watch world: Does resale value affect how much you enjoy a watch? With secondary market prices discussed almost as frequently as specifications, it’s hard to ignore the financial side of collecting. In this episode of Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho discuss whether […] Visit Fratello Talks: Does Resale Value Affect How Much You Enjoy A Watch? to read the full article.

Stellar Small Seconds: Orient Star M45 F7 SJX Watches
Orient Mar 17, 2026

Stellar Small Seconds: Orient Star M45 F7

Orient Star doubles down on dress watches with the dignified M45 F7 Small Seconds in three new colours inspired by the night sky. With its small seconds layout, power reserve indicator, no-date format, and sub-40 mm case size, the M45 is clearly targeting the enthusiast market. Initial thoughts While more casual and “sporty” watches have been the foundation of the watch market for decades, Orient, and its upscale sibling Orient Star, are arguably known best for its more formally coded watches, such as the entry-level Orient Bambino. From there, Orient Star’s M45 collection represents a tempting upgrade, featuring a slew of refinements inside and out that make it a good value proposition despite the higher price. Beyond the technical specifications, the M45 F7 Small Seconds also reflects Orient Star’s ongoing effort to carve out a distinct identity within the broader Japanese watch landscape. While brand has long been appreciated for delivering strong value, the M45 line shows a growing confidence in formal watches, which is needed given the fierce competition from micro-brands in the sports watch segment at the same price point. Visually, the watch could benefit from being even smaller, as the small seconds sub-dial is too close to the centre of the dial, but that is true of many, if not most, of its (few) competitors in this price segment that offer a small seconds format. Collectors have come accept this as a normal trade-off of contemporary watches that use hist...

TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO Mar 13, 2026

TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO

After the unexpected departure of its last leader at the start of the year, TAG Heuer has announced Béatrice Goasglas will take over as chief executive officer starting May 1, 2026. Currently president of the brand’s Americas division, Ms Goasglas’ background lies in digital marketing and client experience. She joined TAG Heuer in 2018 as vice-president of Digital & Client Experience, before rising to head the Asia-Pacific market. Notably, she worked with Frederic Arnault on Connected smartwatch during her stint at TAG Heuer headquarters, at the time one of the brand’s most important projects. Mr Arnault rose to chief executive of TAG Heuer, then moved on to head the LVMH Watch Division. He is now leading “quiet luxury” label Loro Piana, although Mr Arnault is known to retain an eye on the watch brand he once led. Prior to that, she held digital marketing and client-relations roles in fashion and cosmetics. While this background e-commerce and client relationships is an unusual background for the chief of a mainstream watch brand, it is perhaps useful and fitting for the luxury watch industry in the 21st century, and also revealing as to where TAG Heuer wants to go.  

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Affordable Dress Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 12, 2026

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Affordable Dress Watches

Choosing a watch is hard, but zeroing in on a specific type of watch should theoretically make it easier. That is, of course, unless you intentionally make that more difficult…which is exactly what we’ve done. For the latest episode of Editors' Picks, we challenged the Teddy Team to choose the best dress watch – in their opinion – under $1,500. This mission is straightforward in theory, but more complicated in practice. As the watch market continues to change and prices increase each year, finding the best in a category at reasonably attainable price points only gets more difficult. But down below, we're taking that challenge in stride and using it to create a compass for the audience. Today’s under $1,500 mission deals directly with more affordable dress watches, and we are here to prove you don’t need to break the bank to look like a million bucks in formal wear. Is this list definitive? No, and it's not intended to be. Feel free to jump into the comments to let us know which is your favorite and any watches you would add to the list. Danny Milton: Frederique Constant Classic Index Black Price: $1,195 This price point becomes increasingly harder to sort out as time goes by, but nonetheless, I am zeroing in on a brand that has masterfully navigated the balance between homage and innovation. Frederique Constant might very well be the most underrated watch brand in terms of its ability to produce in-house manufacturing at a price that doesn't break the proverbi...

Better Than They Should Be: Five Top-Value Watches That Punch Above Their Weight Fratello
Mar 10, 2026

Better Than They Should Be: Five Top-Value Watches That Punch Above Their Weight

When it comes to luxury products, “value” is a somewhat contradictory term. After all, isn’t the entire point that a luxury product offers something magical that transcends the mere function at the expense of affordability? Maybe so, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any sweet spots in the market. Some watches simply punch way above […] Visit Better Than They Should Be: Five Top-Value Watches That Punch Above Their Weight to read the full article.