Deployant
Split Seconds Chronograph: we recommend six of the best
We take a complicated adventure with split seconds chronograph and pick 6 of the best. From Lange, Patek, Journe, IWC, Sinn and Habring.
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Deployant
We take a complicated adventure with split seconds chronograph and pick 6 of the best. From Lange, Patek, Journe, IWC, Sinn and Habring.
Quill & Pad
Once upon a time in a small watch shop in a (relatively) small California town before GaryG really knew much at all about Vacheron Constantin as a brand and company. there was a display case. And a watch: the Vacheron Constantin Malte Squelette.
Deployant
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is in every way a well-designed and reliable tool-watch. The novelty of the rarely used silver case will add to its collectibility - not referring to flipping potential, but a fun factor for any watch collector.
Quill & Pad
What qualifies a watch to be "made in Glashütte" or "made in Germany"? Sabine Zwettler explains the similarities and differences.
Revolution
The French word ingenieur means “engineer”, and the main selling point of IWC’s first watch with this name was that it was antimagnetic, with its movement being protected from potentially damaging magnetic fields via a soft-iron inner case.
SJX Watches
Unveiled just last week alongside its sterling-silver sibling, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is Tudor’s first solid-gold dive watch. A significant milestone for Tudor that perhaps reveals aspirations further up the price spectrum, the Fifty-Eight 18K lives up to its ambitions. Initial thoughts In late 2019 I was speaking with a senior Tudor executive and got an inkling that a solid-gold watch might be in the works. Being a fan of the brand (and fortunate enough to own a few of them), that was something I was very much looking forward to. Now Tudor has finally done it, and I am impressed with the result. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is attractive, feels good in the hand, and is also well priced. The only disappointment is the lack of a matching gold bracelet. I know that would hike the price by at least 50%, but even then it would be a good buy – and it would be truly cool. Fingers crossed a bracelet is in the works. But even sans bracelet the new Fifty-Eight feels good in the hand. It’s sized (almost) exactly the same as the steel Fifty-Eight, making it the perfect size for an easy-to-wear dive watch. Naturally, the gold version is slightly heavier than the steel equivalent, but the weight is just enough to seem substantive, but not so much it’s unwieldy on the soft fabric strap (more on the weight reduction below). The weight gives the Fifty-Eight 18k an appropriately expensive feel. But as is always the norm with Tudor watches, the quality of the watch lives ...
Deployant
We review the latest Bell & Ross - a new variation of their iconic square diver - the BR 03 now in a ceramic case and an olive drab military styled dial.
Time+Tide
The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 is about as close to a direct vintage reissue as the brand has done.The post The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 revives a legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...
Time+Tide
With the tuxedo panache of the Oscars still fresh in my memory, I appreciate brand founder Jerome Burgert describing this new Serica 5303 diver’s watch as being adept at transitioning “from the wetsuit to the three-piece suit”. In defiance of Luke Benedictus’ story on the need for slim dress watches when suiting up, I sometimes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Serica 5303, a time-travelling tool watch with a French twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If you love De Bethune and you love green, you will find this new version of the DB27 Titan Hawk mesmerizing. And its verdant, microlight-finished dial center isn't all there is to love: unusually for De Bethune, the Titan Hawk is now powered by an automatic movement.
SJX Watches
Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon made waves when it debuted the Everywhere – a mechanical computer able to indicate sunrise and sunset times anywhere in the world – before following up with the more affordable Anywhere, which fulfils the same function for a single, fixed location. Now Krayon is introducing a special run of the Anywhere created in partnership with Perpétuel, a newly-established retailer in Dubai, in colours “inspired by the mythical desert”. Limited to 15 pieces, the Krayon x Perpétuel Anywhere features Eastern Arabic numerals and a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Essentially a facelift of the standard model, the Perpétuel edition is distinguished by its colours – black and pale orange – as well as the Eastern Arabic numerals. While the tweaks are modest, it is nonetheless sharply executed, sporting a striking aesthetic that sets it apart from the blue or cream dials of the regular versions. More fundamentally, the Anywhere is particularly functional as a special-edition watch for the Middle East. Given that the Anywhere indicates sunrise and sunset times, it is eminently useful for clients in Perpétuel’s home market, where Islam is the predominant religion. The ninth month of the Islamic calendar, known as Ramadan – which is taking place right now – requires Muslims to fast from sunrise until sunset. The standard version of the Anywhere However, with a price tag of CHF118,800, the Anywher...
Revolution
Made between 2001 and 2004, the IWC GST Rattrapante had a short production run but the example here is one of the most sought-after references within the family.
Time+Tide
Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
It’s been 220 years, and Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention still is capturing hearts.
SJX Watches
Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...
Time+Tide
Anyone who follows the fight game knows that Georges St-Pierre is a legend. Not just for his remarkable UFC record of 26 wins against just 2 losses, but also because in a sport that is sometimes overtaken by trash-talking bravado, GSP is a gentleman in every sense of the word. He maintained a laser-like focus … ContinuedThe post Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Chambertin, one of the truly great names in the world of wine, is an appellation created in 1937. The range of vineyards throughout the region, different makers, and various vintages all provide variations on the theme, but in general these wines tend to the fuller, firmer style of Burgundy. Ken Gargett explains why these wines are so special.
Time+Tide
To many people’s bewilderment, 2020 saw the rebirth of the Pasha de Cartier. While I happily count myself amongst the Pasha’s staunch fans, I had understood why it was originally discontinued. The styling is almost indecipherable, its origin tale lending us to believe that it was originally made in the early 1930s for the Pasha … ContinuedThe post Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Longines Silver Arrow constitutes a comeback for the functional steel dress watch, a watch that in its heyday would simply be a sporty everyday timepiece. It presents a reassuring throwback to the quieter times of the 1950s, a time when even half a day at the office would mean dressing up in a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Unlike previous models, Full skeleton on display – best one to date Bang for buck Skeleton watchBeautifully executed – Cleanly laid out dial and attention to detail on the bridges Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8/10Wearability – 8.5/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 Cons: Some may miss the second handSome may not appreciate having no hour IndicatorsCaseback is fully blacked out, the rotor isn’t as clearly visible Raymond Weil’s latest skeleton watch comes in the form of the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212. Skeleton watches present a unique interpretation of watchmaking, where sometimes everything is removed down to the bare minimum to showcase nothing but just the movement and the time. There is something about a skeleton watch that just grabs attention. Whether it’s the human curiosity to want to know what goes on behind closed doors or whether it’s the fascination of seeing all the intricate pieces come together to create something complex yet beautiful, skeletonised timepieces can awaken the watch fanatic in all of us. This however does not mean that skeleton watches can always be so easy to read. Quite a common pitfall with skeletonised timepieces is that sometimes watchmakers get too caught up in the movement of the watch that they negate being able to read the time. This is mainly due to the fact that the hour indexes and hands can blend in with the movement, which can make it quite hard to read the dial at a ...
Time+Tide
Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Cohiba Maduro 5 consists of three cigars – all using maduro leaf as wrapper, which gives the cigars a much darker, almost chocolaty appearance. These are upper leaves that have been through fermentation but have seen five years' worth of aging, more than twice the norm. And that's only part of why Ken Gargett thinks these Cuban cigars are so special.
Deployant
We go hands-on in this comprehensive review of the exciting new Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in a white gold case, and pink gold dial.
SJX Watches
Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...
Revolution
Revolution discusses independent watchmaking and the future of Parmigiani Fleurier with its recently appointed CEO, Guido Terreni.
Quill & Pad
Absolutely nobody needs an expensive high-end mechanical belt buckle built like an expensive high-end wristwatch. But then nobody needs an expensive high-end wristwatch either. For those with deep pockets and an itch that another Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, or Greubel Forsey timepiece can’t scratch, the Roland Iten R18 Superdriver might just do the trick.
Revolution
Wei Koh tells us the story behind the Ralph Lauren For The Rake ‘Bearfoot Negroni Bear’ Watch and the The Rake & Revolution Shops that are soon to open at the Fari Islands in Maldives.
SJX Watches
The upcoming spring auction season is bringing with it a surprising number of vintage Patek Philippe world time wristwatches. Christie’s will be offering three of them during its evening sale on May 22, including the famed and unique ref. 1415 HU in platinum that once held the record of most expensive watch in the world when it last sold publicly in 2002 and achieved CHF6.6 million including fees. Phillips, on the other hand, will be offering the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 “Eurasia” publicly for the very first time. Long owned by an Italian collector until it was acquired by the present owner in the mid 1990s, this ref. 2523 is one of just three known with a cloisonné dial bearing the “Eurasia” map – and it is in strikingly fine condition. I put it on my wrist during the preview exhibition, and the watch is gorgeous, crisp, and arguably every dollar of the ten or more million it’ll sell for. The hallowed complication Despite not being amongst the most complicated watches Patek Philippe made in the 20th century, its world-time wristwatches (and also pocket watches) are amongst the brand’s most coveted and valuable timepieces. Well before the platinum ref. 1415 HU set a record in 2002, examples of the ref. 2523 with cloisonné dial were regularly selling for well over US$1 million at auction in the 1990s – and are the inspiration for the today’s world-time models, including the recent ref. 5231J. The fact that the world-time was a favourite of Osvaldo Patr...
Revolution
We are excited to announce a new chapter for The Rake & Revolution. With the opening of the world’s most exclusive and luxurious travel destination, the Fari Islands in the Maldives, we are proud to announce that the brick and mortar shops for men and women on the island shall bear our name.
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