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Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage SJX Watches
Cartier s Heritage Having been Jun 20, 2022

Interview: Pierre Rainero, Guardian of Cartier’s Heritage

Having been at Cartier for almost four decades, Pierre Rainero is part of the institutional memory of a jeweller that was founded in 1847. He is the brand’s “Image, Style and Heritage” director, a post he has held since 2003 and one that also puts him in charge of the Cartier Collection, the brand’s own trove of historical timepieces, objects, and jewels that numbers over 1,500 items – the physical manifestation of the jeweller’s storied history. Mr Rainero’s title, along with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the house, means he determines whether something – anything really, ranging from watches and jewellery to marketing and strategy – is truly Cartier. We spoke with Mr Rainero during Watches & Wonders 2022 to unravel the process behind the development of new watches at Cartier. And he also tells us about the time Igor Stravinsky had a Cartier clock thrown at him. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Congratulations – it’s an impressive collection [launched at Watches & Wonders]. Pierre Rainero (PR): Thank you, thank you. SJX: The Crash is incredible of course. PR: Indeed, it’s just a step further [than we usually go]… It’s always difficult to rework the Crash because it’s such a statement in itself, so here was a certain finesse needed to take it further. In this case we capitalised on the original shape, but created something something else entirely because of the decoration, colours, and how it is perceived. The Crash Tigr...

VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial Time+Tide
Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up Jun 19, 2022

VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial

The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way Seiko know how - with a selection of gorgeous reissues. The latest off the block … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue Time+Tide
HYT Jun 19, 2022

HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue

Watchmaking is a traditional art form, and its heritage often generates a strong connection between client and manufacturer. But we’re in the 21st century now, so to only create designs that are evocative of what we have traditionally seen over the last century would be a disservice. We need pioneers to revisit what it means … ContinuedThe post HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Doble Luna: A Delightful (Latin) Twist On A Classic Complication Quill & Pad
Jun 17, 2022

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Doble Luna: A Delightful (Latin) Twist On A Classic Complication

Cuervo y Sobrinos drums to its own beat. And that beat has a vibrant Latin vibe to it as the heritage of the brand is anchored in the spirit and style that made Havana one of the world’s cultural hotspots. Now headquartered in Switzerland, the Latin spirit is still present in each of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ watches, including its latest creation, the Historiador Doble Luna.

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Long rumoured Jun 16, 2022

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet

Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...

INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) Time+Tide
Oris launches Jun 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots)

A strong selling point for Oris watches are their value-driven pricing. The majority of their watches are priced under $4,000 USD, their Sellita-driven pieces the most approachable (closer to $2,000 USD) and their in-house calibre watches not much more (just below $4,000 USD). But the accessibility of their pieces is not limited to competitive pricing, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz

Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...

The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Jun 13, 2022

The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos

Bulgari have spent the last decade focusing on the Octo Finissimo as the flagship for their haute-horology endeavours, however there’s a growing movement from the Octo Roma range to offer more variety in the world of high-end art watches. The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng is one of their boldest Roma designs … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Jun 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

If Grand Seiko is known for one thing only (and they’re certainly not), it’s their breathtaking dials, and their latest limited edition pushes that tradition further skyward with the release of the high-precision, quartz-powered SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. This light blue-dialled beauty showcases the brand’s exquisite finishing work, with an ethereal, pillowy texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen Time+Tide
Jun 10, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen

Hey Everyone, It’s Ricardo and I’m jumping into the Friday Wind Down today.  This week, things died down a bit after the all-out blitz of releases we saw prior. Which in turn opened my schedule up to finally experience what some have called a trip to watch Mecca. And that is the recently opened AP … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Independent Watchmaker And A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Vincent Calabrese Reflects On His Career And Discusses His Balance Spring-Less Calasys Escapement (Video) Quill & Pad
Jun 7, 2022

Independent Watchmaker And A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Vincent Calabrese Reflects On His Career And Discusses His Balance Spring-Less Calasys Escapement (Video)

The lockdowns of the pandemic allowed 78-year-old independent watchmaker and A.H.C.I. co-founder Vincent Calabrese a lot of free time to think out things he had been mulling over for years. Foremost among these, his Calasys system, an escapement without a balance spring. Find out much more in this video.

Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre mean Jun 7, 2022

Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up?

I’ve just snapped up my very first Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it was not the JLC I expected to buy. When most people think of JLC it is the iconic Reverso that springs to mind.  For some reason I’ve always hesitated, with the strange thought that I’m not grown up enough to wear one.  This is unexplainable, … ContinuedThe post Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute Jun 5, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations

It’s easy to throw the phrase “museum quality” around when talking about haute horology timepieces, as a multitude of brands are capable of the high-art techniques required to earn that label. However, no matter how many time-consuming handmade techniques a brand perfects, only a brand like Vacheron Constantin are able to reproduce actual historical artworks … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”

Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire

Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 Time+Tide
Longines Ultra-Chron revives Jun 1, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968

Heritage revivals are all the rage right now, and the manufacture that really kicked off the trend was Longines – the entire heritage collection range is devoted to digging into their rich archives and resurrecting their historic designs. From the Heritage Military to the BigEye Avigation Chrono to the Legend Diver (among others), their heritage … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Ultra-Chron revives the first-ever hi-beat diver from 1968 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer watches May 31, 2022

These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches

This past week Andrew and Marcus found themselves in Monaco for the Formula One Grand Prix with TAG Heuer. During the festivities, Andrew had the chance to meet up with Grey’s Anatomy star, and TAG Heuer Ambassador, Patrick Dempsey. But before they could get into the subject at hand, Mr McUtchen had to settle a cheeky … ContinuedThe post These are Patrick Dempsey’s three favourite TAG Heuer watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Add colour to your travels with the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue Time+Tide
Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze May 28, 2022

HANDS-ON: Add colour to your travels with the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue

In the last decade, more and more brands have started to embrace the use of bronze in their watches. The material, and its ability to “come alive” on the wrist, adds a unique quality that many collectors enjoy. For Norqain this isn’t breaking news as over the last two years they’ve introduced multiple references making … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Add colour to your travels with the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection Time+Tide
Panerai Quaranta collection From May 27, 2022

Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection

From the 47mm Destros and Bronzos to the monstrous 60mm Egiziano, Panerai has never shied away from large diameters, nor should they, for that matter. The first watches Panerai made were modified pocket watches – the 1936 ref. 2533 measured in at 47mm. Today, however, is about the more wearable spectrum of Panerai’s catalogue. The … ContinuedThe post Honey, I shrunk the PAM! Hands-on with the Panerai Quaranta collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Celebrates the Grandeur of the Ancient World SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates May 24, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Celebrates the Grandeur of the Ancient World

Announced in 2019, Vacheron Constantin’s partnership with the Louvre has given birth to the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations, a quartet of watches featuring artisanal, micro-sculptures in a nod to bygone empires. Each of the four watches bears on its face a scaled-down reproduction of an artefact in the Louvre – the Great Sphinx of Tanis, the lion relief from Palace of Darius I at Susa, the Winged Victory of Samothrace, and the bust of Caesar Augustus. These objects have each been reproduced with creativity and artistry to create dials that live up to the métiers d’art label. Buste de Auguste Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art watches reflect the brand’s versatility in artisanal decoration, both in terms of technique and style. But the Great Civilisations are notable for being more complex in terms of construction and materials than past Metiers d’Art watches. The dials are comprised of several layers and sections, in turn decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from enamelling to mosaic, in order to create the depth and detail they possess. Importantly, the result is greater than the sum of the parts – the dials are attractive in form and impressive in detail. Lion de Darius with its Roman mosaic dial base and relief lion Though all four watches are exceptional examples of Vacheron Constantin’s metier, the Grand sphinx du Tanis and Lion de Darius certainly stand out over the other two, just because of...

RECOMMENDED READING: Watches of Switzerland boss reveals Rolex scarcity is spreading to Cartier and Tudor Time+Tide
Cartier May 23, 2022

RECOMMENDED READING: Watches of Switzerland boss reveals Rolex scarcity is spreading to Cartier and Tudor

It’s no secret that buying a Rolex at retail is getting harder than ever – with many referring to their sports watches as “unobtanium”. But this booming demand and chronic shortage of supply is now having a knock-on effect and driving greater interest in other luxury brands according to the boss of Watches of Switzerland. A … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Watches of Switzerland boss reveals Rolex scarcity is spreading to Cartier and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A quartet of Nomos Tetra neomatik celebrates 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking Time+Tide
Nomos Tetra neomatik celebrates 175 May 19, 2022

A quartet of Nomos Tetra neomatik celebrates 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking

Easily the most underappreciated of the four classic Nomos designs, the Tetra is a rarity among modern watches. While there are plenty of rectangles and stylised, rounded-off squares, the Bauhaus approach that Nomos is so known for has influenced the Tetra in a big way, albeit with a few subtle design touches – more on those … ContinuedThe post A quartet of Nomos Tetra neomatik celebrates 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Time+Tide
May 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Maybe it’s just me, but recently there seems to be a common thread amongst high-end watchmakers. Multiple releases have come out making use of that much loved melodious complication, the minute repeater (I must admit, there is something very enjoyable about listening to time.) While some brands are just getting into this arena, others have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.