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Sigma Dial

Two Greek σ flanking \"Swiss Made\" on 1973-80s vintage dials; certified solid 18k gold applied indices by APRIOR.
Revisiting Shinola: the New Black Ceramic Monster Worn & Wound
Shinola Mar 11, 2024

Revisiting Shinola: the New Black Ceramic Monster

I first took serious notice of Shinola when the brand released its limited edition yacht timer, the Shinola Mackinac in 2022. It’s a funky, vintage inspired design, with a square case, circular yellow-orange dial, and pops of blue that make it an eye-catching piece, perfect for summer. I bought it-and probably overpaid, but, hey, everyone’s got that watch they bought with their heart not their financial sense-and at the same time bought into Shinola’s story as a company that pays homage to its Detroit roots and assembles their watches in America. The Mackinac really seems to represent a turning point for the company. Its release was followed by a string of watches seemingly designed for watch enthusiasts who took issue with Shinola’s pricey, quartz-heavy early catalog. Take the latest addition to the Shinola lineup: the Ceramic Monster, which I had the opportunity to spend a week with recently. The Monster line has always had the best case design of any of Shinola’s watches-particularly with the subtly curved lugs, which here allow the accompanying strap to be flush with the case, unlike other Shinola models which feature straight, spindly lugs-but the Ceramic Monster is the first in the lineup to look truly distinct from other brands’ divers. This is thanks not just to the color change-the watch is all black with some red and white highlights -but to the subtle rippling wave pattern featured on the dial meant to evoke a choppy day on the Great Lake...

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Audemars Piguet Lays Its Cards Out For 2024 - Including A Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition Fratello
Audemars Piguet Lays Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Lays Its Cards Out For 2024 - Including A Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition

Audemars Piguet is making sure its 5134 caliber gets a proper goodbye. The successor of the legendary 2120 movement is being discontinued…but not just in any watch. None other than John Mayer had the honor of coming up with one last dial and case design for a limited-edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. In addition to […] Visit Audemars Piguet Lays Its Cards Out For 2024 - Including A Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB451, SPB453, And SPB455 - Successors To The SPB143 Fratello
Seiko Prospex SPB451 SPB453 Mar 7, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB451, SPB453, And SPB455 - Successors To The SPB143

The Seiko SPB143 is a veritable fan favorite among lovers of Seiko dive watches. And that’s for good reason. It combined the mid-range quality we know from this level of Seiko offerings with subtle, timeless dive-watch aesthetics. Today, Seiko releases the spiritual successors to this watch. These are the standard-production SPB451 (blue dial) and SPB453 […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB451, SPB453, And SPB455 - Successors To The SPB143 to read the full article.

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Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition Fratello
Breitling Goes Deep Mar 6, 2024

Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition

Hot off the heels of the stealthy Chronomat from February, Breitling brings another muted-tone beauty for March. The latest exclusive limited edition for the UK market is the SuperOcean Automatic 44. Like the aforementioned Chronomat, Breitling pairs this SuperOcean’s black dial with an anthracite hue. However, instead of chronograph counters, the SuperOcean features lacquered anthracite […] Visit Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - Mar 6, 2024

Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch

If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware of my love for the Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT that came out last year. The black-dial limited edition of 200 pieces was one of my absolute favorites of 2023. It’s also a release that I unfortunately missed out on. However, the team […] Visit Introducing The Latest Christopher Ward C65 Dune GMT - The Follow-Up To The Brilliant First Version Of This Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.

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Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here Worn & Wound
Omega s White Dialed Speedmaster Mar 5, 2024

Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here

In a move that could only be earth shattering, breaking news in the watch industry, one of the most renowned brands has released their most iconic product in a color with no hue. Yes, the Speedmaster Professional, the Moonwatch, can now be had not only with the traditional black dial, but a white version that is perhaps meant to feel a bit more luxe, given its finishing and the (lack of) options consumers will have with respect to the question of crystal, bracelet, and caseback. This release isn’t exactly a surprise to those who follow Omega closely, but it is, all things considered, a fairly dramatic shakeup to the Speedmaster collection. The unveiling of the white dialed Speedmaster is not a big shock or surprise to those who track, predict, or are otherwise interested in new releases from Omega. Daniel Craig, James Bond himself, was spotted wearing what turned out to be a prototype version of the white Speedmaster last year. The jokes about a spy not being able to keep a new watch secret practically write themselves. In any case, it didn’t take long for the collecting community to reach the conclusion that the Omega ambassador was wearing new version of the Speedy to be released at some point in the near future. And a white dial for the Speedy Pro would be fairly predictable even if it hadn’t been spotted on Craig’s wrist. Some of Omega’s most sought after limited edition Speedys have been white, particularly the Silver Snoopy from 2015, and the Alaska Project...

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A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands Mar 4, 2024

A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review

With the launch of the latest white dial Speedmaster around the corner, we’ve dug into our archives to bring back our review of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Almost 5 years on, it still stands up well! Back in 2019, we reviewed the then-current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since then, Omega has given the Speedy a bit of an upgrade with a new movement and a re-designed bracelet and clasp. However, not much else has changed, and with the imminent announcement of Omega’s new suspected White Dial or perhaps a white ceramic Speedmaster on Tuesday 5th March 2024, we thought we would dig into our archives and re-visit this review, and add a few comments within to be in line with the current model. Enjoy this blast from the past! A Bit Of History The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic games.  The classic design cues of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Things changed, however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from be...

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Bulova Lunar Pilot Review Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Mar 1, 2024

Bulova Lunar Pilot Review

In early 2024, Bulova released a version of its vintage-inspired space-mission-worthy chronograph, the Lunar Pilot, with a dial that is indisputably unique and whose origins are literally out of this world. Here’s a closer look at the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph Meteorite Dial Limited Edition. To start with some background on the model: Bulova Watch Company, founded in New York in 1875, played a noteworthy role during the height of the U.S.A.’s Space Race with the Soviet Union in the 1950s and ‘60s. The company, at the time headed by American war hero General Omar Bradley, established a partnership with NASA through which it provided precision instruments and timekeeping devices equipped with Bulova’s signature Accutron tuning-fork technology. These instruments were used by NASA astronauts on no less than 46 space missions, and a Bulova Accutron clock remains in the moon's Sea of Tranquility to this day, placed there by astronaut Buzz Aldrin in 1969 during the historic Apollo 11 moon landing. Two years later, Bulova made a customized, one-of-a-kind chronograph wristwatch for Colonel Dave Scott (above), commander of 1971’s Apollo 15 mission, the fourth to land on the moon. The watch, essentially the prototype for today's Lunar Pilot models, was specially engineered for lunar conditions, with a case built to withstand drastic changes in pressure, temperature, atmospheric conditions, and gravity. Scott, the seventh man to walk on the moon and the first to driv...

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Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata Louis Mar 1, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata

Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...

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A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

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First Look – The New Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché Monochrome
Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché Feb 27, 2024

First Look – The New Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché

Louis Erard continues its path onwards and upwards with yet another artistic iteration of its Excellence Petite Seconde. A flagship model at Louis Erard since 2020, this model is an attractive dress watch with a small seconds counter available in 39mm and 42mm cases. The uncluttered dial of the Petite Second has been treated to […]

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Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Feb 27, 2024

Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic

What if you like the looks of the angular Zenith Defy Skyline with its 12-sided bezel, but the running 1/10th-of-a-second indicator on the dial makes you nervous? The Defy Skyline Tourbillon with its 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock is the way to go. Yes, it’s a pricey alternative, but before we dismiss this Defy on […] Visit Introducing: The High-Frequency Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon In Steel Or Ceramic to read the full article.

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Farer Updates their World Timer Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Updates their World Timer Feb 26, 2024

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection

Introduced in 2019, Farer’s World Timer series has continued to garner attention for the brand and has become one of their most popular collections to date. Between a nearly pitch-perfect design for the dial and the impressive central rotating 24-hour disc and a bidirectional internal bezel, the wearer has the ability to read 24 time zones simultaneously.  Now, the Britain-based company has released a new iteration of the World Time collection, each with notable enhancements, reintroducing favorites like the Roché and Markham alongside the introduction of the all-new Foxe model in a striking green hue. Those familiar with the collection’s previous design will notice updated hour and minute hands, adopting a sleeker alpha shape to complement the watches’ aesthetics. Moreover, adjustments to the rotating bezel showcase city replacements: Chicago has replaced Mexico City, Beijing has replaced Hong Kong, and lastly, Paris has been replaced by Bienne to mark where the World Timers are produced. Less conspicuous is the update to the World Time’s movement. The collection now houses a customized version of the Sellita SW330-1 movement, specifically tailored to accommodate a rotating 24-hour disc instead of a traditional GMT hand. This modification, along with an upgraded mainspring, extends the power reserve to an impressive 50 hours.  As mentioned, three color options are available for this update. One can choose between Roche, Markham, and Foxe.  The Roché model com...

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A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue SJX Watches
Grand Seiko First” 3180 Remake Feb 24, 2024

A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue

Having just opened its first boutique in Singapore, Grand Seiko has now announced a limited edition especially for the store. The Elegance Collection Singapore Boutique Exclusive SBGW315 is essentially a new take on the “First” cal. 3180 remake. Instead of traditional colours and materials, the SBGW315 renders the familiar design in titanium with a patterned, powder blue dial. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko releases a lot of limited editions – a Spring Drive pair was just announced two weeks ago – but the SBGW315 unexpectedly manages to be different. For one, the base model of the edition is infrequently iterated. The last variant of the “First” remake I can think of was from early 2023 when Grand Seiko unveiled a version with a maki-e lacquer dial. Additionally, past “First” limited editions were more traditional in colour, with plain dials in either silver, cream, or dark colours like black or blue. The SBGW315, on the other hand, combines the aesthetics of the “First” with a decidedly contemporary powder blue dial finished with a radial feathered pattern. While the colour and pattern are hardly novel, they give this watch a distinctive look. Even amongst the numerous Grand Seiko limited editions, the SBGW315 stands out. And it will continue to be uncommon as long as Grand Seiko doesn’t roll out more version of the model in additional colours – which is an overly optimistic assumption given the brand’s inclination towards such watches. A new(ish)...

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Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes Feb 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...

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25 Best All-Black Watches From Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 22, 2024

25 Best All-Black Watches From Entry-Level to Luxury

While blue-dial and green-dial watches have emerged as perennial favorites for aficionados in recent years, "all-black" watches - that is, timepieces with ebony-colored cases, dials, and often even straps - have remained an intriguing niche for those seeking a stealthier style or to add a hint of dark edginess in their timepiece ensemble. Here are 21 all-black watches in a range of price categories for those looking to embrace the dark side.  G-Shock DW5600BB-1CR Price: $99, Case: 42.8mm, Thickness 13.9mm, Lug-To-Lug: 48.9mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz The DW5600BB model of Casio’s iconic and mega-popular G-Shock sports the original rectangular-cased, digital-display design that has been a mainstay since 1983, as well as a watch-world forerunner of the all-black look. The classic gray field of the LCD dial frames the watch's compact readout of time, date, and running seconds. Like most all watches in G-Shock’s extensive DW5600 family, its durable resin case boasts a 200-meter water resistance and its digital functions include a 1/100-second stopwatch, countdown timer, multi-function alarm, a full calendar accurate to 2099, and an electro-luminescent backlight with afterglow. Citizen Nighthawk Black PVD Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from ...

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Carl Suchy & Söhne Presents The Waltz N°1 Moll Fratello
Feb 21, 2024

Carl Suchy & Söhne Presents The Waltz N°1 Moll

It’s probably been five years since I first went hands-on with one of Carl Suchy & Söhne’s watches. It was a memorable experience because the watches struck me as modern yet somehow traditional. On the Waltz N°1, classic dial elements came together with a unique seconds display and an elegant, contemporary case. When the press […] Visit Carl Suchy & Söhne Presents The Waltz N°1 Moll to read the full article.

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 21, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon”

First seen in 2021, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar sports watch combines its signature complication and the bestselling integrated-bracelet design. Slated to be produced only during 2024, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is a reference to Moser’s trademark gradient, or “smoked”, dials. The new perpetual calendar takes stylistic minimalism even further than its predecessor. The Smoked Salmon version does away entirely with any markings on the dial, leaving the gradient dial almost entirely unadorned. Initial thoughts The new perpetual is typical Moser in both style and function. The colour and name are subtly amusing, reflecting the brand’s frequent use of low-key humour in its products. The “Tutorial” perpetual calendar was more literal but equally tongue-in-cheek. More broadly, “Smoked Salmon” is a clever as it adds another twist to the gradient dials that are now synonymous with Moser, which helps keep the concept fresh, despite it having been iterated numerous times. Salmon aside, the latest Streamliner is a striking watch. Even though Moser has no shortage of minimalist watches, this one stands out for being so stark yet having a full featured perpetual calendar – and even a power reserve. Mechanically, the watch is identical to its predecessors, which is a good thing. The second-generation perpetual calendar inside is smartly constructed but also free of the bugs found in earlier iterations of the movement. The Perpetual Calen...

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Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Foliot Scubanaut Collection

Anyone who has been in the watch world long enough knows how hard it is to be surprised. New releases often feel like a revolving door of familiar brands tweaking existing models. Maybe that means a blue Pelagos FXD instead of a black one, or adding a piece of flair such as Kermit the frog to a date wheel without changing any complications. Iterations such as new dial colors and puppets on wheels make for temporary amusement, but fall short of evoking genuine surprise from enthusiasts who are no stranger to seeing their favorite childhood characters adorning their wrists. When bombshells from the big brand fizzle out, I often turn to the microbrand space in my quest for a bit of shock. I foster a special affinity for microbrands and applaud any brand that dares to enter a crowded arena to contribute something new. But even in a constantly shifting microbrand landscape, things can be predictable. Slimmer versions of existing dive watches and fan favorite brands jumping on the integrated bracelet bandwagon can start to feel a bit formulaic. But in a rare occurrence, I had the opportunity for surprise by spending time with two travel watches from Foliot, a brand not previously on my radar. And, spoiler alert, one of these watches actually did manage to scratch that awe inspiring itch. Fighting the urge to research brand history and sleuth for fellow enthusiast’s opinions on the forums before the mail truck arrived, I decided to go in blind with this review. Afterall, how of...

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Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph SJX Watches
Farer Feb 19, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph

Sinn recently revealed its new offerings for the year, which included a retro take on of its signature pilot’s chronograph. The 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph features a matte black dial with a classic three-register layout highlighted by red accents, a design inspired by the 103 C from the 1970s. Significantly, the new 103 is powered by a manual-wind movement, the first time in two decades Sinn is launching a hand-wind chronograph. Initial thoughts  This appeal of this release lies in the elegantly vintage design, notably the classic three-register layout and 1970s details like the “roulette” register. The contrast between the black and red elements is especially attractive. Notably, unlike many scaled-up vintage remakes, here the retro styling is presented in almost the same size. The new 103 is 41 mm and almost 15 mm high, which sticks close to the dimensions of the original. Priced at US$2,870, the new 103 is affordable. However, the Sellita movement inside can also be found in retro-inspired chronographs from micro-brands like Farer for a quarter less. Although Sinn has actual aviation-instrument history, while most other brands in this price segment don’t, the price still feels high. Sinn should have done more with the movement, or some other substantive upgrades, in order to justify the price. Nevertheless, true-blue Sinn enthusiasts would value this launch, since Sinn doesn’t do too many vintage remakes. Manual wind and vintage flair The 103 is a pilot’s chr...

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Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Ceramic Formula 1 Special Edition SJX Watches
Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Feb 19, 2024

Tudor Discreetly Drops Black Bay Ceramic Formula 1 Special Edition

Having just announced its first-ever Formula 1 sponsorship, Tudor also quietly revealed a Black Bay Ceramic for the Visa Cash App RB Formula One (VCARB) racing team. As with the standard model, the case is black ceramic, but instead of the usual black, the dial is in a striking blue that matches the livery of the team’s car (and the Visa logo). Like almost all of its special edition watches, the new Black Bay Ceramic is not for public sale but instead meant for members of VCARB team. The brand hasn’t released any official statement regarding the watch, and all that is known for now are two portraits of VCARB driver Daniel Ricciardo wearing it. The VCARB car for the 2024 season. Image – Visa Cash App RB Initial thoughts Tudor has grown imaginative and adventurous in its products and marketing in recent years, especially compared to a decade ago, which stands in contrast to its still conservative sister brand Rolex. In that regard, Tudor has become something of a platform for the Rolex group to experiment with new ideas and concepts, which was what Rolex once was decades ago, before it became the world’s biggest and most valuable watchmaker. Daniel Ricciardo. Image – Visa Cash App RB Tudor has been particularly active in collaborations with notable organisations, ranging from elite military units to America’s Cup competitors. Each collaboration, in turn, results in a watch. Even though Tudor has made a good number of collaborative special edition watches to date...

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