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INTRODUCING: The Melbourne born and bred John Robert Wristwatches Archetype collection Time+Tide
Jan 29, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Melbourne born and bred John Robert Wristwatches Archetype collection

It isn’t often that the brands we review are homegrown right here in Melbourne, but that’s exactly the case with John Robert Wristwatches. Melbourne is a really, really long way from Switzerland (just ask Andrew about the long-haul flights to Baselworld over the years). But despite the tyranny of distance, the first John Robert Wristwatches … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Melbourne born and bred John Robert Wristwatches Archetype collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 Time+Tide
Citizen filling Jan 18, 2021

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824

The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” Jan 6, 2021

IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader

Rolex … oh dear, Rolex … love the watches, hate the limited amount of product available. As much as it would be easy to chalk it up to brand power and allure, the reality is the crown manufacturer makes one hell of a wristwatch. The Rolex name may draw all-comers into purchasing their pieces, but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Why the Rolex GMT-Master II “Bat Girl” trumps the original Caped Crusader appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock SJX Watches
Jan 1, 2021

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock

A self-taught clockmaker in Michigan, Rick Hale has unveiled his latest timekeeping sculpture – Wind & Water. Working under the name Clockwright, Mr Hale specialises in the creation of bespoke, monumental wooden clocks, such as the KL1 introduced in 2018, which stood over 5 ft, or 1.5 m, tall. Initial thoughts One could be forgiven for thinking that Wind & Water is a static work of art rather than a functional, mechanical clock regulated by a pendulum. It’s an illusion created by the disconnected layout of the components and the deceptively simple looking gear train. The Wind & Water is, in fact, both. Naturally, the motion of the pendulum isn’t captured in still photos, and can only appreciated in person. The clock is doubtlessly a dynamic presence in real life: measuring 1.5 m by almost 1 m, it will be hard to miss on the wall. Made almost entirely out of figured cherry that has been aged for several years, the components exhibit varied grain and colour, giving it a nuance impossible with conventional metal parts. Meanwhile, lignum vitae, a dense wood that’s hard wearing and self-lubricating, is used for the bushings and rollers. And unlike metal, wood is isotropic; its strength is directional – strong along its grain, but weaker laterally. As a result, the direction of the grain has to be kept in mind when creating both the mechanical and structural parts of the clock – while also considering the aesthetics of the grain and colour – which calls for an ad...

VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports Blanka Seiko Dec 25, 2020

VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka

Seiko has by no means had a quiet year, but there was one collection that demanded attention. The all new Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V Editions turned heads for all the right reasons, taking inspiration from the legendary fighting game, and turning six of the main characters into watch designs. These fighters included … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Street Fighter’s green machine inspires the bad-ass Seiko 5 Sports Blanka appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang Time+Tide
Hublot has nailed Nov 12, 2020

HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang

Let’s face it – blue is a very saturated colour throughout the novelties of 2020. This is not necessarily due to a lack of creativity. If anything, it is fan service: brands truly working to provide what the people want. Hublot, on the other hand, is not one to just follow a trend – they … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot has nailed the 2020 mood with the most cheerful shade of sky blue for this Big Bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is part of a one-two colour punch that is peak Hublot Time+Tide
Hublot Nov 11, 2020

The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is part of a one-two colour punch that is peak Hublot

The ubiquity of blue this year has not gone unnoticed, with almost every brand hopping onto the trend in the hope of convincing more consumers to buy their watches. Hublot’s direction in the colour chosen for the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is not a case of trend-following. It’s yet more proof of the … ContinuedThe post The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is part of a one-two colour punch that is peak Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber Nov 1, 2020

IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable

Editor’s note: Grand Seiko turned heads at the start of 2020 with the announcement of a brand new in-house movement – the Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber. It was first launched in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition, a quintessential yellow gold dress watch from the Japanese watchmaking firm, and it left jaws on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… Time+Tide
Seiko ambassador relives Oct 27, 2020

The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs…

Editor’s note: If I had to list my most motivational interview of the year, it would be easy. It would be Paul de Gelder. Paul is a former navy clearance diver, turned TV show host and now Seiko ambassador. Paul is an Aussie based in L.A – and his claims to fame are more than … ContinuedThe post The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Oct 19, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue

A proven trend within the world of watches is for brands to reinterpret historic models within their archives for modern-day release. Seiko has revived and renewed one of their classic ’70s divers with the new Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. ⁣ The case While slightly larger than the original, the Seiko Prospex SPB183J … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 on Bracelet SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Oct 8, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 on Bracelet

One of TAG Heuer’s most distinctive watches because of its angular, square case, the Monaco turned 50 last year and the brand marked the occasion with a variety of limited edition watches as well as a hand-finished, one-off watch that was sold to benefit charity. At the same time, the regular-production Monaco in blue – arguably the quintessential Monaco design – received a substantial upgrade, with the ETA movement replaced with the in-house cal. Heuer 02. The Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 is now also available with a black dial, and a new, retro-inspired Monaco bracelet is also making its debut. Initial thoughts The Monaco is an intrinsically interesting watch because of its case. But TAG Heuer has produced many iterations that unfortunately look similar – despite having different movements – making it difficult to distinguish between them. The latest variant still looks similar, but manages to stand out from the crowd thanks to the bracelet, which has not been part of TAG Heuer’s offerings in a long time. The new bracelet is modelled on the 1970s original, but has been made more robust while being finished better. The result is a bracelet looks original and sporty. There have been numerous Monaco variations, but most were solidly constructed and well priced. The same appears to be true here. While the Monaco Heuer 02 has a new movement and bracelet, it retains the well finished case that’s a wearable 39 mm, along with the symmetrical, “Compax” dial layou...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 6, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold

Conceived as an affordable entry into the world of the integrated-bracelet, luxury-sports watches, the BR 05 was first launched in steel, priced at a little under US$5,000. Now the brand has just taken the covers off the decidedly more lavish BR 05 Blue Gold, which is rendered in the trendy colour combination of a metallic blue dial with a rose gold case, and even a matching gold bracelet. Initial thoughts When it made its debut last year, I found the BR 05 to be as good looking as it was controversial. At a glance the design is redolent of the usual suspects in the luxury-sports watch genre. However, there’s originality to the design that is less noticeable, such as the bezel derived from the quintessential Bell & Ross (B&R;) wristwatch, the square BR 01. And the case finishing on the steel BR 05 is well done; not overly complicated yet managing to have well defined edges. All of those qualities carry over to the rose-gold variant, which coupled with the blue, sunburst-brushed dial, results in a compelling watch. But the price is far from compelling. At US$32,500 on a bracelet (and US$11,000 less on a rubber strap), the BR 05 in gold is expensive, especially since the competition is very, very strong. It is cheaper than the Royal Oak or Overseas in solid gold, but the difference doesn’t seem like that much of a stretch at this level. The Overseas in gold, for instance, costs a little over US$46,000. A good look While the value proposition in terms of the movement an...

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here Time+Tide
Seiko Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here

For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic Time+Tide
Sep 16, 2020

The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic

We spoke to Jean-Claude Biver recently for an upcoming feature-length video, and while we were on Zoom, the conversation turned to the pandemic. We took the opportunity to ask him some pointed questions about the industry’s recovery. How long does he think it will take? Who will be the winners and losers? He also shared … ContinuedThe post The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) Time+Tide
Rolex stole Sep 3, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm)

I swear we didn’t collaborate on it. It was pure and unintended serendipity. The two most popular stories this week on Watchville (an app you should download here if you don’t already have it, if only for the clock to set your watches to!) were titled: ‘How to steal a watch clean off someone’s wrist…’ … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to steal a watch, and how Rolex stole the show (with 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The How, What, When, Where And Why Of Seeing The Aurora Borealis, AKA Northern Lights – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2020

The How, What, When, Where And Why Of Seeing The Aurora Borealis, AKA Northern Lights – Reprise

Ian Skellern and his wife serendipitously chanced upon "seeing" the aurora borealis while visiting Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the excitement of that led to months of research. And that research led to spending a few days in the Arctic Circle in the north of Sweden. Here is what Ian has learned about the northern lights so far, some of it firsthand.

Insight: Barraud’s Weight and the Marine Chronometer SJX Watches
Aug 21, 2020

Insight: Barraud’s Weight and the Marine Chronometer

Although precision watchmaking is today mostly synonymous with Switzerland, the oft forgotten truth is that much of the technological progress and development in horology during the 18th and early 19th centuries originated in England. The preeminence of English watchmaking during that period is perhaps personified by John Harrison, the carpenter-turned-clockmaker best known for his invention of the marine chronometer. Harrison and his contemporaries advanced horology in an era where the pursuit of accurate timekeeping was of national importance for the United Kingdom: the marine chronometer enabled ships to traverse the highs seas while maintaining positional accuracy over extremely long distances, an achievement that no doubt helped the rise of the globe-spanning British Empire. The curious chronometer On a recent visit to Charles Frodsham & Co Ltd. – the English chronometer manufacturer now run by Philip Whyte and Richard Stenning that’s making wristwatches equipped with a natural escapement – a rather curious timekeeper from England’s heyday as a watch and clockmaking nation emerged. Dating to 1845, it was marine chronometer no. 2388 manufactured by Barraud, later Barraud & Lund, a now defunct English watchmaker (though a descendant of the company, Lund & Blockley, remains in operation to this day as a retailer in Mumbai). While the well-preserved state of the clock was impressive in itself, closer inspection of the movement revealed a peculiar feature. Sitting...

Swatch Introduces the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold 2020 SJX Watches
Swatch Aug 5, 2020

Swatch Introduces the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold 2020

One year after the launch of its first collaboration with Japanese streetwear label A Bathing Ape (BAPE), Swatch has just announced the second edition of the Swatch x BAPE Big Bold. A limited edition of unknown quantity, the new line up is made up of three models, plus a more exclusive box set that Swatch has teased about but not yet announced. From left: Tokyo Black Multi Camo, Tokyo Grey Multi Camo, Tokyo White Multi Camo Initial thoughts The first Swatch x BAPE edition was made up of six watches, each dedicated to a different city, along with a sixth “global” model – resulting in six truly distinct designs, making the whole set desirable. On the other hand, the new edition pays homage to Tokyo, the birthplace of BAPE, and all three watches have the same design, namely a stamped camouflage pattern on the dial, making it arguably less interesting as a trio. The monochromatic dials accentuate the large 47 mm diameter, which is further emphasised by the copious negative space in the lower half of the dial. Though not as daring in terms of design as the first edition, the new Swatch x BAPE collection will probably be well received thanks to its affordability and fun styling. Tokyo White Multi Camo with copper dial and matching pin buckle Round two The new Swatch x BAPE watches are identical, except for the colours of the case and dial. The case is 47 mm and matte plastic, with the crown at two o’clock and an integrated silicon strap. The trademark BAPE camouflage...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk” Submariner Jul 25, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids

The first time I held the Seiko Prospex SNR045J in my hands, I laughed, turned to my left, and said to Deputy Editor Nick Kenyon, “What on earth is this?” To describe the limited edition dive watch as evocative is more than an understatement – it conjures up many, many thoughts in my mind, scrambles … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Tourbillon Pocket Watches of Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Jul 9, 2020

In-Depth: The Tourbillon Pocket Watches of Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt

Originally an 18th century Danish brand, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) was resurrected in 1981 by Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer turned watchmaker. While the brand’s best-known timepieces were elegantly-styled wristwatches with teardrop lugs, its greatest technical achievements were pocket watches, all of which were built by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), a deeply talented English watchmaker who was a contemporary of George Daniels. As was typical of the era when pocket watches were the preeminent genre of watch collecting – and the tourbillon was the ultimate complication – Pratt’s best work for UJS were his tourbillon pocket watches. Pratt not only built the movements, but also fabricated some of the dials that were decorated in exceptional guilloche. Peter Baumberger. Photo – Dr Helmut Crott The oval pocket watch The pièce de résistance in Pratt’s series of tourbillon pocket watches is no doubt the Ref. 1 “Hommage”, an oval pocket watch featuring a tourbillon with an integrated remontoir d’egalite. Writing in Derek Pratt – Watchmaker, a book dedicated to the watchmaker’s life and works, watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott explained the Ref. 1 was originally conceived as a series of five watches for an Asian collector in the late 1980s. But after the first watch was complete, the client cancelled the rest of the order, making it a “financial disaster for Peter [Baumberger]” according to Dr Crott, , a longtime f...

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 7, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097

Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper Time+Tide
Ming Jul 2, 2020

EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper

While still in its infancy compared to the historical juggernauts of the horological world, Ming is already turning heads for all the right reasons. One of the heads they have turned is none other than John, who took a chance on a brand he hadn’t known a whole lot about and purchased the Ming 17.06 … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 1, 2020

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”

When Tudor announced the original Black Bay Fifty-Eight in 2018, it arrived to critical and commercial acclaim. With strong vintage cues and slimmed-down proportions, the “BB58” was what many enthusiasts had been asking for. And it turned out that the broader, watch-buying public also wanted exactly the same thing. Now Tudor has just rolled out a new variant of its bestseller – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. Essentially the same watch as the original BB58 – with the same in-house MT5402 movement – but now with a navy-blue dial and bezel, making it more contemporary. Initial thoughts The original BB58 is my favourite in the Tudor collection because of its sleek and wearable dimensions. At 39 mm by 11.9 mm, it wears significantly better than its chunky, 41 mm counterparts. Since its release, I have been excited about the prospects of the BB58 as a springboard for new models, so the BB58 Blue is a welcome addition to the line. The navy blue dial and bezel are the primary attraction of the new BB58 Blue, not just in terms of looks, but the historical basis of the colour, which harks back to the Tudor Submariner “MN” with a “snowflake” dial that was supplied to the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, in the 1970s. The blue “Snowflake” Submariner of the 1970s (left) and the BB58 Blue But blue is also fashionable, having come into vogue in recent years. While Tudor has never been a fashion-forward brand – if anything it is conservative in sty...