Deployant
Top 10 most popular posts for 2022
As we kick off our first publishing day for 2023, we take a moment to review what you told us were the most popular posts for 2022.
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Deployant
As we kick off our first publishing day for 2023, we take a moment to review what you told us were the most popular posts for 2022.
SJX Watches
For its 25th anniversary last year, Parmigiani debuted La Rose Carrée, a grande sonnerie pocket watch that was entirely hand engraved and enamelled in blue. While it was a one-off creation, the pocket watch has spawned a collection of five minute repeaters, Les Roses Carrées. Each of the five will be unique and the very first is La Rosa Celeste, a minute repeating wristwatch that takes after the pocket watch in both decoration and detail. Initial thoughts As is typical of Parmigiani’s top-of-the-line compilations, La Rosa Celeste is impressive in both its decoration and complication, but it has an unusual modern feel. Although the case is intricately engraved, the clean dial gives it a contemporary feel, so it doesn’t have the old-fashioned ornateness that such watches often possess. With the lavish engraving and generous enamelling, the case makes a statement on the wrist, even more so with its size. At 42 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, La Rosa Celeste is a big watch, a little too big to be as elegant as its decoration. But the size is no doubt also meant to give it presence, which it will surely have. La Rosa Celeste is finely crafted and artisanally decorated, which inevitably means it is expensive, or CHF600,000 to be exact. That’s a hefty sum but par for the course for a watch like this. Repeating roses and blue enamel Of all the elements of the watch, the dial is the simplest in terms of style. It’s almost minimalist with small, square hour markers...
Time+Tide
Netflix’s Addams Family spin-off Wednesday has taken the world by spooky storm, with Jenna Ortega’s self-choreographed dance scene going certified viral. But, while much attention has been given to Ortega’s performance as Wednesday Addams, watch enthusiasts may have clocked Game of Thrones actor Gwendoline Christie sporting a Cartier Tank Louis Large in her role as Nevermore … ContinuedThe post Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Plus, learn how you can take $2,500 off your pre-owned order – while supplies last.
Hodinkee
The new award kicks off in the New Year and is geared toward furthering creativity and entrepreneurship in horology.
SJX Watches
In a surprising off-season debut, Rolex has debuted the record-setting Deepsea Challenge. Evolved from the experimental dive watch of the same name presented in 2012, the Deepsea Challenge is the first serially-produced Rolex wristwatch in titanium. And its rating of 11,000 m, or 36,090 ft, means it clinches the title of the deepest-rated dive watch ever. Initial thoughts Conceived as “the ultimate watch of the deep”, the Deepsea Challenge has nevertheless “been crafted with everyday use in mind”. In other words it’s gigantic at 50 mm in diameter and over 20 mm thick, but wearable because both the case and bracelet are titanium, making it relatively lightweight. It is tempting to imagine Rolex will roll out other titanium watches, though I expect that won’t happen since the use of the alloy for the Deepsea Challenge is primarily for lightness, something less important for conventionally-sized Rolex watches. As with other Rolex sports watches the technology behind the watch is impressive – in fact the technology within the watch makes it one of the most interesting Rolex sports watches – but it also incorporates details that enthusiasts will appreciate like the chamfered lugs that bring to mind vintage Rolex cases. In short, it’s a little over the top but extremely cool. It’s somewhat pricey at abut 70% more expensive than the standard Deepsea, but arguably worth it for something that is essentially an experimental watch refined into something wearable...
Hodinkee
Built to survive extremes, both on and off the road.
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!
Hodinkee
Ten percent off, site-wide. The 10 best videos we've ever published. And, oh yeah, 10 pre-owned Rolex watches at their original retail price.
If you are a regular on our site or YouTube channel, you are probably familiar with the name Zach Blass. Zach joined the team a little over two years ago, and in that time he has already amassed nearly 800 articles (!) under his byline. Through his coverage, you probably know a bit about him … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Q+A with our Editor, Zach Blass appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
Hodinkee
NOMOS kicks off the Tangente's anniversary year with a back-to-basics release.
Time+Tide
For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having successfully pulled off the first large-scale watch fair in Switzerland since the pandemic started – and the first expanded event that included Baselworld transplants like Rolex and Patek Philippe – the organisers of Watches & Wonder will be doing it again next year. Watches & Wonders 2023 will take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 – though those are “provisional dates” according to the organisers. But before that the event will take place in two cities in China. First on the tropical resort island of Hainan from October to December 2022 where it will happen simultaneously in Haikou and Sanya. The CDF Mall in Sanya Last year’s W&W; at the West Bund Art Centre in Shanghai Each of these respective events will be taking place in a shopping mall operated by one of the country’s two primary duty-free retailers, China Tourism Group (CTG) in Haikou and China Duty Free Group (CDF) in Sanya. And then from November 23 to 27, W&W; will move to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, where it took place in previous years. Intriguingly, the announcement the 2023 event in Geneva begins with “Watches and Wonders announces… its first provisional dates for 2023”. And it omits the list of exhibiting brands. That is perhaps a hint that next year’s event will not have the same exhibitors as this year, reflecting widely discussed tensions between the various exhibiting brands and groups.
SJX Watches
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
Hodinkee
As the Finals prepare to tip off, join us as we explore the connections between hoops and horology.
Deployant
We are off today to London to preview this magnificent exhibition showcasing one man's passion for watchmaking spanning 40 years. Will report back soon!
Hodinkee
A unique twist on two-tone, to be auctioned off at Sotheby's in Geneva tomorrow.
SJX Watches
Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...
SJX Watches
Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...
Revolution
Singapore Watch Club founder, Tom Chng brings us through the Club’s six year journey and the 18 unique Special Edition Cartier timepieces the Club has issued in partnership with the maison to mark the occasion.
Revolution
Oris and like-minded ocean conservationists come together for a gala and to auction off a limited edition Aquis with the lowest edition number.
Revolution
Seiko kicks off 2022 with new additions to the Prospex and Presage collections with new watches that add to the brand’s grand heritage
SJX Watches
Omega has just taken the covers off a slew of new watches for 2022, but the standout is doubtlessly the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m. The Ultra Deep began with a trio of experimental Ultra Deep watches that completed a 12-hour dive strapped onto the exterior of a submersible, reaching 10,935 m, or 35,876 ft, the deepest any human or watch has ever dived according to Omega. The experimental watch – which was rated to 15,000 m – has evolved into the commercially-available Ultra Deep, which is Omega’s capable dive watch. While having half the depth rating of the experimental model, the Ultra Deep 6000 m is much more wearable with a diameter of 45.5 mm, similar to that of a Planet Ocean 600 m, albeit with a case thickness of 18.12 mm. The experimental watch, on the other hand, was almost 28 mm thick. And needless to say, the Ultra Deep is a saturation diver’s watch, but one constructed impermeable to gases, explaining the lack of a helium escape valve. Initial thoughts Omega’s top-tier dive watches have always been thick, but the Ultra Deep takes it to the next level. With its enormous case, the Ultra Deep is probably not very wearable, but that’s an integral feature of a dive watch like this. It is so overbuilt that it doesn’t really make sense, but that’s what makes the Ultra Deep cool. While the technical achievement of the depth rating is impressive, the Ultra Deep is notable for more than just raw numbers. Among its novel features is O-Megast...
SJX Watches
Implemented in models across Audemars Piguet’s catalogue, the tourbillon has been found in the Royal Oak since 1997, though it’s only recently that the model got a major upgrade with the automatic flying tourbillon introduced last year. Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked (ref. 26735). The new model is equipped with the brand-new cal. 2792, an automatic movement that’s modern in both aesthetics and construction, with thoughtful details that are typical of Audemars Piguet’s approach to movement construction. The cal. 2792 with the Royal Oak 50th anniversary rotor that’ll be available only during 2022 Initial thoughts The new Royal Oak tourbillon is interesting for its modern aesthetics, particularly in terms of the movement. Despite being a decades-old design, the Royal Oak tourbillon manages to be original in style thanks in part to the calibre. But the movement is more than just a styling exercise. It incorporates several details that are cleverly engineered, which speaks to the watchmaker’s effort in making timepieces that are rooted in contemporary watchmaking concepts. Even though skeletonised watches are neither new nor rare, the exposed mechanics are still intriguing, allowing geeks to connect the dots between the visible parts on the front and back. And as is typical of AP skeleton movements, the cal. 2972 is finished in a manner that is very much modern haute ho...
Quill & Pad
Japanese whisky distillery Mars Shinshu is still working to establish its house style. "Searching for its soul,” distillery manager Koki Takehira calls it, and he is off to a wonderful start. At this stage, the whiskies appear to be from the elegant and complex end of the spectrum, and there is a gentle sweetness, more so than found in most Japanese whiskies. Ken Gargett takes us through the history of Mars Shinshu and shares tasting notes of a few of the whiskies.
Hodinkee
The most complicated British watch ever made had dropped off the radar; could Daniel Miller find it?
Hodinkee
I bought my GMT-Master II to wear it. Then it skyrocketed in value, and set off an existential debate.
Hodinkee
Step inside the new-look subterranean auction hall off Park Avenue.
Hodinkee
The latest Ming limited edition has been years in the making, but has the obsessive development process paid off?
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