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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 5, 2024

Breaking News: Only Watch Will Return in May 2024

After having postponed itself in the wake of questions about its propriety and transparency, Only Watch has just announced its return, with the 10th instalment of the charity auction taking place on May 10, 2024. This happens after the organisation published its audited financial statements covering the last three years as well as revamping its governance. Majority of brands that were slated to take part in last year’s event are returning for the 2024 auction – 48 out of the 62 watches have remained – with the most notable departures being Audemars Piguet and Tudor. Crucially, the most significant brands will return for this year’s Only Watch, namely those who will contribute watches with six- or seven-figure values. The most important is naturally Patek Philippe, which is believe to have an all-new wristwatch in the works, and not the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P made for last year’s event. The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019, making the most valuable wristwatch ever sold at auction In addition, F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, as well as all LVMH brands, including Louis Vuitton, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Zenith, are also participating. This means that the brands that matter in terms of value are still there. For example, just Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe alone should raise a healthy eight figure sum – with Patek Philippe accounting for at least US$15-25 million, or about two-third...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 7 - Featuring Breguet, Omega, IWC, And More Fratello
Breguet Omega IWC Apr 5, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 7 - Featuring Breguet, Omega, IWC, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! We continue our search for some of the best pre-owned watches currently available. With list prices for new watches soaring, we have dedicated this series of articles to finding pre-owned watches worth your attention. There are so many great watches available for great prices. In this seventh installment, we have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 7 - Featuring Breguet, Omega, IWC, And More to read the full article.

Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
H. Moser Apr 4, 2024

Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders

Watches & Wonders hasn’t started yet, but I think we can safely identify the first honest to goodness trend: brands exhibiting at the show announcing new watches ahead of the big event. We saw it last week with Czapek, and now H. Moser is following suit with what I think can be fairly described as a Watches & Wonders apéritif. The Swiss indie has just announced a pair of watches in their Pioneer line in two distinct shades of green. One is a long awaited new entry in the Pioneer’s 40mm case, and the other is the latest example of Moser’s signature “Concept” dial.  First up is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. If you’re unfamiliar with Moser’s Concept dials, they are devoid of markings and visible branding on the dial, and a showcase for whatever color, texture, or design Moser is interested in showcasing for a given watch. It’s a design principle that has become Moser’s signature, and while it’s certainly not for everyone, fans of the brand admire their commitment to showing off what are often vibrant colors and letting a stripped down aesthetic speak for itself.  The Citrus Green colorway has a dramatic green fumé effect, with the shade at the center appearing yellow while growing to a darker green shade as we move to the perimeter. This reference is in the larger 42.8mm steel Pioneer case, which is water resistant to 120 meters. The Streamliner notwithstanding, the Pioneer is the closest thing Moser makes to a true sports watch, and...

Urwerk’s Spacetime Blade Concept Gets a Limited Release Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Spacetime Blade Concept Apr 4, 2024

Urwerk’s Spacetime Blade Concept Gets a Limited Release

Few brands have the ability to surprise quite like Urwerk, but it makes sense that such an unconventional watch brand would be the one most likely to leave us all scratching our heads in wonder and confusion (in the best way possible, of course). Their latest creation, the Spacetime Blade, is based on a design that made its debut last year ahead of the scuttled Only Watch auction. The clock, outfitted with a series light bulbs lit by Nixie tubes, provides pretty much all the timing information you could want, and plenty you didn’t know you needed, all in a very Urwerk way.  What we have here is a glass blade that stands 1.7 meters tall and weighs 20 kilograms. It’s an imposing, large object, made up of a total of 1,446 components. It stands on a large bronze crown that’s been polished and buffed to Urwerk’s preferred level of patina, and provides a base to a large glass dome that protects a series of vertically aligned Nixie bulbs, eight in total.  Each bulb contains a total of ten steel cathodes that allow it to illuminate any digit, 0 through 9. The glass is blown by hand and the electrical elements are meticulously assembled by hand as well, using tweezers, in each of the bulbs. According to Urwerk, each bulb consists of 88 parts.  Once the blade is assembled and the whole thing is turned on, it’s capable of displaying a variety of information via the Nixie bulbs. The Spacetime Blade has several different modes, and can read the time in hours, minutes, and ...

Introducing – SpaceOne is back with an Accessible Wrist-Sized Tellurium Monochrome
Vulcain Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – SpaceOne is back with an Accessible Wrist-Sized Tellurium

Last year, the bold and ultra-modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a young Parisian independent watchmaker celebrated for crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. And it’s now time for the duo to present its […]

SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium SJX Watches
Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium

Founded last year by a pair of Frenchmen, entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Theo Auffret, SpaceOne fashions itself as a maker of modular complications assembled in Paris that are make accessible thanks to Swiss movements and external components sourced elsewhere. Its second creation, the Tellurium, is an affordable – but heavily simplified – heliocentric tellurium watch priced at just €2,999, or about US$3,250. Initial thoughts A tellurium is a kind of orrery, a mechanical model of the solar system, which shows the planets’ positions relative to the Sun. Traditional orrery are kinetic sculptures driven by complex gearings and usually large format, desk clock size or larger. The Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium of 2007, for instance, was the size of a small table. There have been wristwatch-size versions of orrery, most famously Ulysse Nardin’s pair of the Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus, which were faithful miniaturisation of orreries and conceived with scientific accuracy in mind but were priced accordingly. The SpaceOne Tellurium is a heavily diluted of the same. It shows only the Sun, Earth and Moon, each with minimal motion. The Earth, for instance, does not rotate on its own axis. Rather than being a miniaturised true orrery, this is an heavily simplified representation presented with sci-fi style. This simplified approach brings with it the inconvenience of a non quickset calendar. So setting the calendar from...

Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage Fratello
Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko Apr 4, 2024

Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage

The Japanese watchmaker has introduced a new series within the Seiko 5 family, which pays homage to the past but somehow feels very natural in the present. Seiko is one of those few brands for which an enthusiast can buy a very humble automatic watch. Or a mechanical marvel with very tight tolerances that competes […] Visit Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage to read the full article.

Five Great Gifts for New Grads Worn & Wound
Apr 3, 2024

Five Great Gifts for New Grads

May is around the corner, and with it, a fresh set of grads ready to take on the world. A thoughtful graduation gift can be a particularly memorable token, and what better way to celebrate than with a special watch or accessory? In this Chronicle, we consider five fantastic gifts that a graduate would be thrilled to receive. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultations and to answer any questions you have. Congrats grads! May is around the corner, and with it, a fresh set of grads ready to take on the world. A thoughtful graduation gift can be a particularly memorable token, and what better way to celebrate than with a special watch or accessory? In this Chronicle, we consider five fantastic gifts that a graduate would be thrilled to receive. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultations and to answer any questions you have. Congrats grads! The post Five Great Gifts for New Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

I Bought a Pre-Owned Omega Speedmaster Reduced that’s as Old as Me Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Reduced that’s as Apr 3, 2024

I Bought a Pre-Owned Omega Speedmaster Reduced that’s as Old as Me

It is often warned, within the watch enthusiast community, that pre-owned (especially bordering on vintage) watch collecting is a monster all its own - sitting at the end of booby-trapped temple, with spring-loaded spike walls and perilous pits waiting to consume another person tempted by the pretty shiny things inside. And yet, occasionally you manage to traverse the ledge, dodge the poison barbs, and slide under the closing stone door, grabbing your fedora in the nick of time. Sometimes things just go right, but giving yourself the space to be vigilant always helps. Does anyone else hear a John Williams score in their head? Just me? Like many a watch collector before me, I’ve been yearning for an Omega Speedmaster since I first found out about its heroic travels. It went to the moon, I believe. I dunno, you’ll have to double check me on that. Anyway, I would take almost weekly trips to the AD just to try it on. Each visit went the same way. I’d approach the Omega counter, point to the Speedmaster Professional, and say “you know which one.” Sapphire sandwich because I love marveling at the movement. My AD would stand there while I carefully inspected it. As I did the week before, and the one before that. I’d tell him, “you can go help the guy over there if you need to,” knowing damn well he can’t leave me alone with the watch, but it made me feel better to say it to establish that I am, yet again, not ready to buy it. We’d chitchat, I’d leave, and ...

Christopher Ward C63 Valour: Their Latest MoD-Approved Timepiece Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward C63 Valour Their Latest Apr 2, 2024

Christopher Ward C63 Valour: Their Latest MoD-Approved Timepiece

The C63 Valour is accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year with its ETA G10.212 AD COSC movement. It has been tested rigorously over 13 days and at 3 different temperatures and 4 separate humidity levels to ensure its thermal compensation abilities and consistency. On top of that, the movement neatly displays running seconds at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute register at 10 o’clock, and a 1/10th seconds counter at 2 o’clock.

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers SJX Watches
Rolex watches often Apr 2, 2024

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers

London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For Worn & Wound
Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Apr 1, 2024

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For

Last year marked the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, and to celebrate they launched three new watches in three acts. Act One was a contemporary take on the Fifty Fathoms in stainless steel, Act Two was a high-tech modern piece geared toward pro divers in titanium, and Act Three was a historical MIL-SPEC interpretation in 9K Bronze-Gold. Despite the critical acclaim, collectors seemed to have been left wanting. There has been an appetite for a contemporary sub 45mm diameter, non-limited-edition version of the Fifty Fathoms for many years, and for 2024 Blancpain is finally making it happen with new 42mm-diameter Fifty Fathoms Automatic models in the permanent collection. They will be offered in both red gold and corrosion resistant grade 23 titanium. The latter is like grade 5 but has lower oxygen, nitrogen, and iron content. It also has better ductility and fracture toughness, which, according to Blancpain, makes it excellent in saltwater environments. Powering these new Fifty Fathoms is the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315 automatic movement. Its construction includes three series-coupled barrels that can provide a class leading five days of power-reserve. It is elaborately decorated, at least compared to most divers, and has an 18K red gold oscillating weight sporting an NAC coating, whose design is inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. All of this, of course, is visible through the screw-down sapphire display back. Th...

First Look – Hamilton Expands its Sporty Jazzmaster Performer Collection with 9 New References Monochrome
Hamilton Expands Apr 1, 2024

First Look – Hamilton Expands its Sporty Jazzmaster Performer Collection with 9 New References

Released about a year ago, the Jazzmaster Performer collection was Hamilton’s answer for a range of all-rounder, go-anywhere do-anything modern sporty watches. Mostly known for its connection with cinema and its successful vintage/military-inspired watches, the Performer was of a different breed. Sportier, more dynamic, more modern overall and yet sleek, it made a good impression […]

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Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Mar 31, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 77: Mission to Watches & Wonders

Episode 77 of A Week in Watches is going to be slightly different. This episode has two hosts and no script! With the big event happening so soon (the next episode will be made from Watches & Wonders), we figured getting ready with a little Q and A would be fun. That said, two very different watches with prominent moon phase complications were also worth covering. Join Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss in the studio as they discuss the new releases and then answer some fantastic questions from the W&W;+ Slack community. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which recently added the new Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Tourbillon to the catalog. It is a gorgeous piece of haute horology that showcases Mr. Silberstein’s unique style. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check them out, as well as accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 77: Mission to Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium It’s Mar 31, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

It’s Sunday morning! To be more specific, it’s Easter Sunday. So grab a warm cup of coffee with a chocolate bunny, and get ready to vote. In this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we decided to revisit a battle that we have had in the past. It’s the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona against the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium to read the full article.

Why You Shouldn’t Get Your Better Half Interested in Watches Quill & Pad
Mar 31, 2024

Why You Shouldn’t Get Your Better Half Interested in Watches

“What, another watch?” she almost screamed in disbelief no sooner than I had opened the front door to our little love nest. Rewind to last week. I had been looking for a Roger Smith Series 1 for some time now, and Jones, my watch dealer, happened to finally locate one. I thought that I had played it pretty safe, so I really don’t know how she could have noticed. But then what happened next changed the rest of my life.

Sex Sells Watches – But What, For Whom, and To Whom? Quill & Pad
Mar 30, 2024

Sex Sells Watches – But What, For Whom, and To Whom?

When someone says “I’m no prude,” it is pretty easy to imagine what typically comes next: a prudish commentary on some aspect of modern society or youth culture. GaryG likes sex. There we go! To the point and leaves no doubt as to intent. That said, he typically tries to keep his interests in sex and watches somewhat distinct. But has the watch industry at large done that, now and in the past?

eBay Finds: A Colorful NOS Swatch, a Classic Omega, and a Military Issued CWC Worn & Wound
Omega Mar 29, 2024

eBay Finds: A Colorful NOS Swatch, a Classic Omega, and a Military Issued CWC

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Constellation Vintage Omega Constellations are highly sought after, especially the classic pie-pan dial with dog leg lugs like this sweet 1966 example. The steel case is in great shape, even though it’s likely felt the touch of a polishing wheel. The dog leg lugs still show their chamfers and the observatory medallion on the back is nice and clear. The silver pie-pan dial looks original and is in excellent condition. The caliber 561 Chronometer movement is clean and runs well per the seller. It comes on an original Omega beads of rice bracelet, but I don’t think it is original to this watch. Overall very clean example of a very desirable vintage Omega. View auction here Squale Sigel Diver  Next up is a rare vintage Squale Medium diver. This example is a Squale Sigel, with black dial and two-tone acrylic bezel insert. This Medium Squale case is 34mm wide, with a slightly asymmetrical shape. The case shows some honest wear, but nothing bad. The black dial has some patina on the lume and hands, as well as on the two-tone acrylic bezel insert. That said, vintage Squale divers are hard to find and always in demand by collectors. This one even has the correct ‘Von’ si...

Brew’s Metric Chronograph is Now Available in Titanium Worn & Wound
Brew s Metric Chronograph Mar 29, 2024

Brew’s Metric Chronograph is Now Available in Titanium

Brew’s Metric line continues to grow, with the introduction of the first version of the Meca-Quartz chronograph in titanium. The Metric, as we’ve seen through several earlier iterations, has proven to be a fantastic canvas for Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer’s design chops, and now the watch takes on another slightly different shape (not literally, it’s the same 36mm case) in a new metal. This marks Brew’s first use of titanium, so they’re breaking the dam a bit here, and we can’t help but wonder what might be coming in our favorite lightweight metal.  But let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. The new titanium Metric has a subdued black dial with red accents that complement the utilitarian vibe of a titanium sports watch. The overall feeling you get here is one of a certain tactical sensibility, rather than the colorful playground of the earliest Metrics. The subdials are recessed for an added sense of depth, and the word “Titanium” appears, curved over the 6:00 subdial, proudly announcing the use of a new material.  Brew has gone with a simple brushed finish for the case and bracelet of the titanium Metric, which makes a lot of sense for a few reasons. First, this kind of presentation will just always work with titanium, which has an inherently sporty quality to it. Second, it surely keeps costs down. Somehow, the titanium version of the Metric is only priced at only a small premium over the stainless steel versions, coming in at $495. That’s a pr...