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Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jul 6, 2021

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe

At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Patek Philippe Rolex Jul 3, 2021

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence

For brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Richard Mille it is crucial to understand the best means of acquiring these pieces preowned. Unless you’re a VIP customer, these highly sought-after brands don’t tend to be readily available to buy right away (if ever). Despite this, grey market dealers seem to have cases full … ContinuedThe post Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Jul 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition

Fratello knocked it out of the park in their last collaboration outing with Oris to create a bronze/burgundy Big Crown that nailed all the details with aplomb. Now our friends in the Netherlands have brought their keen eye for aesthetics to another end of the pricing spectrum, teaming up with a high-end independent watch manufacturer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auctions: Only Watch 2021 – November 6, Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 15202 Jul 1, 2021

Auctions: Only Watch 2021 – November 6, Geneva

A biennial charity watch auction that raises money for medical research, Only Watch has just announced the 2021 event takes place in Geneva on November 6, along with most of the 53 unique timepieces that will go under the hammer. Attended by the great and the good of Swiss watchmaking, Only Watch auctions have long enjoyed the support of leading watchmakers who exercise their best efforts to create one-off timepieces that are sold to support research into a cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Only Watch was founded by Luc Pettavino, whose late son Paul was stricken by the illness. Mr Pettavino’s unfailing dedication to both Only Watch and his son’s memory has raised over €70 million to date. Luc Pettavino at Only Watch 2019 Many of the unique timepieces created for the event are landmarks in themselves, explaining why Only Watch has traditionally been a venue for record-setting prices, most notably the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019. Highlights this year include a Tudor Black Bay GMT in an aged-gunmetal finish, possibly the very last Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15202 (a model that will be discontinued at year’s end), and the imaginative F.P. Journe “Francis Ford Coppola”. And what will likely be the most valuable lot in the auction is not a wristwatch, but instead the Patek Philippe desk clock ref. 27001M-001 inspired by a timekeeper made for automobile tycoon James Ward Packard in 1923. We will c...

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings Jun 29, 2021

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed

This year, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport, a killer 41mm chronograph that presented buyers with a more technically intriguing alternative to the popular Rolex Daytona. It has since proved a hit success at retail, with initial allocations immediately snagged by buyers worldwide. But Zenith purists have been itching for a bit more of a nostalgia-driven … ContinuedThe post The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Time+Tide
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Jun 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm

Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people Time+Tide
May 30, 2021

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people

Buying a watch is rarely something that you do on a random whim. Much like buying a car, it tends to be an extremely considered purchase where you research and agonise over every last detail. In addition, watch collectors also tend to have highly informed (and vocal) opinions over most aspects of a timepiece from … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchmaker Of Historical Significance: Romain Gauthier – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 12, 2021

Watchmaker Of Historical Significance: Romain Gauthier – Reprise

Throughout history, hundreds of talented watchmakers have left their mark on the science and industry of timekeeping. For the inaugural edition of WOHS (Watchmakers of Historical Significance), Joshua Munchow highlights an engineer that has used technology to push forward since his beginnings, creating a company that is not only a leading brand among independents, but also a supplier to many established brands: the incredible yet humble Romain Gauthier.

The Return Of The Dress Watch! Back From The Brink With 5 New Watches From Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, And Montblanc Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Chopard May 10, 2021

The Return Of The Dress Watch! Back From The Brink With 5 New Watches From Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, And Montblanc

“Dress watches” were initially just “watches.” While their popularity may have dwindled over the years as more casual and sporty watches have taken off, many brands have stayed faithful to the concept of the dress watch as Martin Green highlights here with five beautiful new examples.

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Rolex Richard Mille Cartier May 6, 2021

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII takes place in Switzerland this weekend with 236 stellar lots for bidders and enthusiasts to get excited about. Of course, you have some head-turning pieces from the usual suspects – Patek Philippe, Rolex, Richard Mille, Cartier and more. But after combing through the auction catalogue, I wanted to highlight … ContinuedThe post Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Apr 23, 2021

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons

The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Apr 18, 2021

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S

Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Apr 13, 2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays Apr 7, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers

With the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art collection, even those uninitiated with watchmaking can clearly see the artistry and hand craftsmanship of the watches. Inspired by art, history, and culture, the collection leverages the master craftsmen and intricate techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation. Each dial is quite a masterpiece, serving as … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Collection pays tribute to legendary explorers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Unveils Apr 4, 2021

Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch

Unveiled alongside the flagship The Citizen Caliber 0200, the Series 8 is a line of affordable, integrated-bracelet sports watches equipped with slim automatic movements that have increased magnetism resistance. The Series 8 is made up of three sub-collections: the 870, 830, and 831. All are similar, but have different case and dial constructions, as well as different movements, but are all accessibly priced affordable, starting at $1,200 for the 831 and rising to US$2,000 for the 870. Initial thoughts The Series 8 is essentially a luxury-sports watch done accessibly – the case is angular and faceted, with both brushed and polished surfaces finishes, while the bracelet is integrated. While the styling brings to mind several other well-known watch designs, the Series 8 watches are not outright copies, which is a good thing, especially at this price range where originality harder to find. The 870 with its two-piece bezel The 830 with its three-layer dial of mother of pearl under a metal lattice Though all three models are slightly different, they are almost identical in size at 40 mm wide and a relatively thin 10-12 mm high. That’s a good size that large enough but not so big that the watch feels chunky, which is likely for this type of design beyond a certain size. The 870 with its two-colour bezel seems the most appealing of the trio, with both its case and bracelet being more streamlined. Both the 830 and 831 have the same case that’s slightly octagonal, which m...

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref 4261 Mar 23, 2021

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’

Part of Les Collectionneurs – vintage wristwatches that have been sympathetically restored by the brand itself – the ref. 4261 is very much a classical, mid-20th century gentleman’s watch, albeit one with a minute repeating movement. The design is simple and accented by the barest of flourishes, yet it manages to be distinctive enough to feel like a Vacheron Constantin. In fact, the slim minute repeater with teardrop lugs is arguably the archetypal design for a Vacheron Constantin striking watch. The ref. 4261 that’s now in show in Singapore, part of a selection from Les Collectionneurs The little extra that marks out the ref. 4261 as a special watch According to Vacheron Constantin, the ref. 4261 was the first minute-repeating wristwatch model produced by the brand. Launched in 1943, it remained in production until 1951, but just 36 were produced during the period. They were offered in yellow or pink gold, as well as platinum. About a dozen were made in yellow gold, and this is one of them. It is also one of the last ref. 4261s made, having been finished in 1951, the final year of production. Most interestingly, this example is powered by a 13-ligne movement. It was the largest minute-repeating movement used by Vacheron Constantin at the time. According to Vacheron Constantin, just ten of the ref. 4261s produced contained a 13-ligne movement, while majority were equipped with a slightly smaller, 12-ligne calibre. Just 5.25 mm high – less than half the height of ...

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts Mar 10, 2021

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications

Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...

Rolex versus Zenith: Comparing the Daytona to the Chronomaster Sport Deployant
Zenith Comparing Feb 27, 2021

Rolex versus Zenith: Comparing the Daytona to the Chronomaster Sport

Both the Rolex Daytona and the Zenith Chronomaster Sport are highly sought after in today's market. The Rolex Daytona has been that way for years now, and have seen new highs on they resale market of late. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport however, is only recently launched, but shares a certain popularity in part some say for its formulaic similarities to the Rolex Daytona. But are they really that similar?

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast

I have been a huge fan of Kurono watches since their introduction. Master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka should be applauded for the brand’s mission of trying to make high-quality timepieces more accessible to consumers. What really makes Kurono so intriguing, beyond these more approachable price points, is the design language utilised across the various lines. This … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Feb 11, 2021

Panerai Introduces the Ultra-Luxe Luminor Marina Platinumtech PAM 1116

After not having had a platinum model in the catalogue for some time, Panerai is returning to the lustrous and heavy metal with the Platinumtech Luminor Marina PAM01116. But the case of the PAM 1116 is not conventional, PT950 platinum alloy used in most wristwatches, instead it is an extra-hard alloy with better wear resistance. And like many of Panerai’s recent top-of-the-line models, the Platinumtech Luminor boasts a 70-year warranty – which is double emphasised by an oversized emblem on the sapphire back. Initial thoughts Panerai’s recent launches have leaned towards lightweight alloys or composites, which makes the Platinumtech Luminor unusual. The brand has made platinum watches in the distant past – in both Radiomir and Luminor format – and they were always impressively heavy watches with a heft that matched their price tag. The new Platinumtech Luminor is doubtlessly just as impressive in tangible feel, and it is also helped by the olive-green dial that’s unconventional but attractive. The watch is accompanied by an impressive 70-year warranty, but it feels more like a gimmick than something of practical value. Aside from the decades that stretch beyond the lifetime of most living buyers, the movement inside the watch is a straightforward calibre that doesn’t need a 70-year warranty (which is probably why it’s viable for Panerai to offer one in the first place). The Platinumtech Luminor  is expensive for a contemporary Panerai, though not all tha...

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline Time+Tide
Patek Philippe can take six or Jan 19, 2021

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline

When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury … ContinuedThe post Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special SJX Watches
Blancpain has made it Jan 15, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special

Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? Time+Tide
Jan 7, 2021

Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort?

Fact: we are stuck in the strap-technology stone age while the world is moving on. Is the 100-year-old technology of the spring bar beautiful nostalgia? Or simply large manufacturers being lazy? We all have a story of that one time, changing a strap to match up that outfit, fiddling with a screwdriver, scratching the lug, … ContinuedThe post Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction? Time+Tide
Rolex OP 36 2020 models Dec 5, 2020

We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction?

Last week, Phillips held their latest watch auction in Hong Kong: the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XI. As per usual, there were some very neat, rare, and illustrious lots that collectors would salivate over – eager to add such fine timepieces to their collections. While the globe may have taken a beating this year … ContinuedThe post We got it dead wrong. So, which colour Rolex OP 36 2020 models sold for the highest price at the recent Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph Nov 14, 2020

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens

Hypebeast recently dropped the orange-flavoured candy of the Nike Air Force 1 ’07 LV8 Total Orange, a searchlight-bright version of the iconic trainer. As if the zesty orange wasn’t enough, they have teamed up with 3M for the metallic silver highlights, in an unashamed flash of reflections from the tiniest sliver of sunlight. This is … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.