Quill & Pad
Fleming Series 1: A Superb New ‘Six-Eater’
The world is again another watch brand richer, as recently, US-based but Swiss-made brand Fleming launched its first collection.
Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking
5,030 articles · 36 videos found · page 117 of 169
Quill & Pad
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise
It may seem like an odd question, and knowing Elshan Tang’s brand progression personally, I will not be asking it, but you might. If you’re used to his tough budget-priced divers, this new Spearfish is a leap in price and style. Is the open-worked Swiss taste worth it? I love seeing small brands climb the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Hanhart Austrian Air Force AW169M Limited Edition
Hanhart was established in Switzerland in 1882 and relocated to Germany in 1902, positioning itself as a formidable competitor to the pricey Swiss-made stopwatches. It became successful by offering timing devices of comparable quality at a more accessible price point. A significant milestone occurred in 1938 with the development of the Caliber 40 mono-pusher chronograph […]
Worn & Wound
Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders
Watches & Wonders hasn’t started yet, but I think we can safely identify the first honest to goodness trend: brands exhibiting at the show announcing new watches ahead of the big event. We saw it last week with Czapek, and now H. Moser is following suit with what I think can be fairly described as a Watches & Wonders apéritif. The Swiss indie has just announced a pair of watches in their Pioneer line in two distinct shades of green. One is a long awaited new entry in the Pioneer’s 40mm case, and the other is the latest example of Moser’s signature “Concept” dial. First up is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. If you’re unfamiliar with Moser’s Concept dials, they are devoid of markings and visible branding on the dial, and a showcase for whatever color, texture, or design Moser is interested in showcasing for a given watch. It’s a design principle that has become Moser’s signature, and while it’s certainly not for everyone, fans of the brand admire their commitment to showing off what are often vibrant colors and letting a stripped down aesthetic speak for itself. The Citrus Green colorway has a dramatic green fumé effect, with the shade at the center appearing yellow while growing to a darker green shade as we move to the perimeter. This reference is in the larger 42.8mm steel Pioneer case, which is water resistant to 120 meters. The Streamliner notwithstanding, the Pioneer is the closest thing Moser makes to a true sports watch, and...
SJX Watches
SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium
Founded last year by a pair of Frenchmen, entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Theo Auffret, SpaceOne fashions itself as a maker of modular complications assembled in Paris that are make accessible thanks to Swiss movements and external components sourced elsewhere. Its second creation, the Tellurium, is an affordable – but heavily simplified – heliocentric tellurium watch priced at just €2,999, or about US$3,250. Initial thoughts A tellurium is a kind of orrery, a mechanical model of the solar system, which shows the planets’ positions relative to the Sun. Traditional orrery are kinetic sculptures driven by complex gearings and usually large format, desk clock size or larger. The Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium of 2007, for instance, was the size of a small table. There have been wristwatch-size versions of orrery, most famously Ulysse Nardin’s pair of the Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus, which were faithful miniaturisation of orreries and conceived with scientific accuracy in mind but were priced accordingly. The SpaceOne Tellurium is a heavily diluted of the same. It shows only the Sun, Earth and Moon, each with minimal motion. The Earth, for instance, does not rotate on its own axis. Rather than being a miniaturised true orrery, this is an heavily simplified representation presented with sci-fi style. This simplified approach brings with it the inconvenience of a non quickset calendar. So setting the calendar from...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Hautlence HLXX, Celebrating The Brand’s 20th Anniversary With the Original HL Movement
Independent watchmaker Hautlence, which made its debut 20 years ago in Neuchatel, has always been known for its modern approach to watchmaking with creative designs, exposed mechanics and innovative ways of displaying time. Now a sister company of H. Moser & Cie, the brand made a comeback a few months ago with modernized, streamlined aesthetics […]
Fratello
Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage
The Japanese watchmaker has introduced a new series within the Seiko 5 family, which pays homage to the past but somehow feels very natural in the present. Seiko is one of those few brands for which an enthusiast can buy a very humble automatic watch. Or a mechanical marvel with very tight tolerances that competes […] Visit Hot Take: Seiko Introduces Three New Seiko 5 SNXS Series Celebrating Its Heritage to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - A new chapter for HYT Watches, Coming Back with the Sleeker, Smaller T1 Series
HYT Watches burst onto the independent watchmaking scene in 2012 with a captivating concept, a truly unique vision and an idea that somehow was antinomic of a mechanical watch; displaying time with fluids. To achieve this, the brand imagined a high-tech micro-fluidic module driven by a mechanical movement. The idea is to use two immiscible […]
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Previewing Watches & Wonders 2024 With Ben, James, And Danny
Predicting what we'll see from Rolex, Tudor, Patek, and what else we're excited about from the Swiss watch industry's biggest annual trade show.
Monochrome
First Look - The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire
It’s full steam ahead for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division, an appropriate metaphor for a brand founded on Monsieur Vuitton’s revolutionary stacking canvas trunks and long associated with the ‘art of travel’. With the incorporation of the high-end watchmaking manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps in 2011, the brand can produce spectacularly complicated timepieces underscored by a […]
Worn & Wound
Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph
Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve. Watches are offered in three strap varie...
Revolution
Gerald Charles, Continuing The Legacy Of Gérald Charles Genta
Gerald Charles, an independent Swiss watch company founded in 2000 by the renowned Mr. Gérald Charles Genta, the most prolific watch designer of the 20th century, is currently under the stewardship of the Ziviani family, close family friends of the Gerald Genta. Known as the ‘Maestro’, Monsieur Genta was not only a prolific artist but […]
SJX Watches
The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part III
An outlandish concept that originally sprang from the mind of Carole Forestier Kasapi, the Ulysse Nardin Freak of 2001 was perfected by Dr Ludwig Oechslin and then made reality thanks to the advent of silicon in watchmaking. Lightweight and magnetism resistant, silicon was used for the escape wheels but that was only the beginning of the story. [This story, the third and final instalment in the series, details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor. The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement.] Silicon, Silicium, Silinvar Now used interchangeably with silicon, silicium is actually French for “silicon”, but now it is also used as the trade name for the proprietary form of silicon used by Ulysse Nardin for movement components, namely silicon with a hard oxide outer layer that gives the material thermocompensating properties. Silicium was developed by Swiss scientific institute Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (CSEM) in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. Notably, the material is also known as Silinvar, which resulted from a separated but related CSEM project backed by a consortium made up of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Swatch Group. As a ...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Bored With Plain Dials? Take A Look At Some Of The Coolest Alternatives!
Watchmaking is often touted to be about creativity and expressiveness, but when it comes to dials, brands tend to be a touch conservative. Simple silver, black or blue, however beautifully crafted they are, can be a bit, well, plain. And to some perhaps even boring. Luckily there are brands who dare to break those boundaries […]
Deployant
New: Hamilton x Dune - Ventura Models
In the realm of horology, the collaboration between Hamilton and the cinematic universe of 'Dune' represents a fascinating intersection of timekeeping and art. The limited edition Hamilton x Dune watches are capture the essence of the 'Dune' saga's otherworldly aesthetic and Hamilton's legacy in watchmaking.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Buci Paris And seconde/seconde/ Show Us Their Bleeding Heart For Poetry
The two watch world French natives team up on a part French and part Swiss-made limited edition watch.
Monochrome
First Look - New Pastel Colours for the Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm
Ben Küffer hit the ground running with the launch of his start-up watch brand Norqain in 2018. Thanks to a good network of family and friends associated with the watch industry, Ben counted on the support of his father, Marc Küffer, who owned and managed a prominent Swiss private label manufacturer, Ted Schneider, a member […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New and Accessible Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph (incl. Video)
French brand Depancel has a distinct automotive-inspired approach to watchmaking, which starts with its name. The name Depancel is derived from Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega, three of the most respected French car manufacturers. With such a backstory, it’s not hard to figure out what Depancel loves to do most; build car- and motorcycle-inspired watches! […]
Worn & Wound
A New Breitling Aerospace Honors the Brand’s History of Adventure
With 140 years of history, there have been countless milestones for Breitling. One that comes to mind happened on March 21, 1999. It was on that day that an air balloon, called the Breitling Orbiter 3, landed in the Egyptian desert, making Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones the first two men to circumnavigate the globe during this mode of transportation. It’s this tenacity and adventurous spirit which has been imbued in the Swiss brand since 1884 – and there doesn’t seem to be any slowing down. In fact, Breitling’s latest watch, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter 25th Anniversary Edition is a watch to honor Piccard and Jones’ legacy, while hoping to inspire a new generation of adventurers – or those of us who are adventurers at heart. Each watch contains a segment of the original Breitling Orbiter 3 balloon, visible through the transparent caseback. Adorned with the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo and the inscription “First non-stop flight around the world 25th anniversary,” this watch serves as a tangible reminder of humanity’s boundless spirit of exploration. The color scheme of the dial matches that of the Breitling Orbiter 3’s capsule, coming in a bright orange that will catch people’s eyes and surely become a conversation starter. The orange dial is complemented by a 43mm titanium case and a choice of a matching bracelet or black rubber strap. The dial itself features the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo at 3 o’clock and the numerals, indices, and hand...
Deployant
New: Citizen 100th anniversary limited edition Pocket Watch
The Citizen 100th Anniversary Limited Edition Pocket Watch is a remarkable tribute to a century of watchmaking. This exquisite timepiece is a modern reinterpretation of Citizen's first pocket watch from 1924, limited to just 100 pieces.
Monochrome
First Look - The Squale Master Titanium 120 ATM, Celebrating the 65th Anniversary of a Diving Icon
Like many other brands born during the golden era of watchmaking, and in particular the early days of the professional dive watch, Squale might not sound familiar to a mainstream audience but has to be considered an emblematic maker of dive watches for seasoned enthusiasts. 65 years ago, in 1959, Squale launched its first watch; […]
Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection
As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials. These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...
Monochrome
Portrait - We Touch-Down In Finland To Discover Indie Watchmaker Reima Koivukoski
While Scandinavia is not necessarily the birthplace of mechanical watchmaking, there’s quite a list of names that have emerged from the northern European countries that exhibit great craftsmanship and creativity. Think of individuals such as Stepan Sarpaneva, Kari Voutilainen, or GoS’ Patrik Sjögren, but also the young and upcoming Danish watchmaker Rune Bakkendorff. Next in […]
Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide
The TAG Heuer Carrera is widely regarded as one of the OGs of racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches, and today - decades after both the model and the deadly road race that gave it its name appeared to have been permanently discontinued - it claims a spot atop the leaderboard in the Swiss watchmaker's modern collection. Here's how the Carrera raced to worldwide acclaim, upgraded its engines along the way, and roared back from the Quartz Crisis to engage and energize a new generation of watch enthusiasts. The company we now know as TAG Heuer traces its history to 1860 and its founder Edouard Heuer; “TAG” would be added to the family business’s name in 1985, when the Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) Group obtained a majority share. From its beginnings, the company placed an emphasis on sports timing and on optimizing the precision of the hand-held and dashboard-mounted chronograph timepieces that were its specialty. Edouard Heuer’s most significant contribution to timekeeping was the oscillating pinion, patented in 1887. This device, which simplified the construction of chronograph calibers by decoupling the stopwatch mechanism from the timekeeping function, is still used commonly in movements today. In 1911, Heuer developed what is regarded as the first dashboard chronograph for cars and aircraft, the “Time of Trip,” and in 1914 released its first wrist-mounted chronograph (which, like many of its contemporaries, was a repurposed pocket watch with its sin...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Skeleton X Label Noir
On one side is Maurice Lacroix, a serious brand with a strong position in the accessible luxury watch segment, but also some serious watchmaking skills with its Masterpiece range. On the other side is Label Noir, a Geneva-based customisation atelier in operation since 2011, with an exciting portfolio – which also happens to include a […]
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection
Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix, in collaboration with Label Noir, unveils the latest iteration of its Masterpiece Skeleton, the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir. While many in the industry may be getting collab fatigue, it’s hard to deny that this new release isn’t the perfect example of a partnership done right: each party leaning on the other’s strength to make something truly impressive. Building upon the success of their previous collaboration on the AIKON model in 2020, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir join forces again to recreate the magic that was this original release. The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir pushes the boundaries of design even further for Maurice Lacroix, showcasing that a well-crafted timepiece can, at times, venture outside the box to make something that expands the brand’s identity in new ways. With the Masterpiece Skeleton, Maurice Lacroix pays homage to skeleton watches while embracing modern technology. In particular, the Masterpiece Skeleton uses both CNC and CAD technology to bring a level of minute detail to their eye-catching design. In doing so, Maurice Lacroix’s artisans have produced a product in which every detail of the movement is both precise and reliable, while still maintaining its captivating filigreed appearance. The mechanical movement of the Masterpiece Skeleton is the Manufacture ML134 caliber, adorned with Grand Colimaçon, sand-blasted finishing and bridges with polished edges. As with all Maurice Lacroix watches, ...
Fratello
Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut
Some 25 kilometers north of Geneva, on the shore of the city’s eponymous lake, lies the town of Nyon. This is the place that Renaud Tixier, the latest Swiss independent watch brand launching today, calls its home. It’s the latest collaborative effort between Dominique Renaud - the renowned watchmaker and co-founder of Renaud & Papi […] Visit Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut to read the full article.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The History Of The Micro-Rotor, And How Dominique Renaud And Julien Tixier Have Reinvented It With Their Brand's First Watch
A pioneering industry icon and a young prodigy team up (again) for a new brand that fixes a major issue with a beloved watchmaking design: the microrotor.
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Highlights from 2024
Seiko releases a tranche of 5 new models in the Presage line, a new series to be known as the Classic Series. The Classic Series makes its debut with a diversity of colors, materials, and textures of traditional Japanese crafts, highlighting the soft and gentle side of Japanese design.
Fratello
Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist
Swiss brand Genus is known for the quirky extravagance of the GNS1. It won the GPHG award for Mechanical Exception in 2019 and spawned some delightful variations. We also know the challenges of the “second album” for any hot new artist, as well as for wristwear. By introducing the Genus GNS2, I feel the brand […] Visit Introducing: The Genus GNS2 - Radical Chic With A Blue Twist to read the full article.