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What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry? Time+Tide
Jun 20, 2020

What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry?

You’ve screwed up. Big time. Worse still, your partner has found out and they mad as all hell. To get their own back, said partner embarks on a demented spending spree on your joint credit card in order to punish you for your (latest) transgression. That’s what most people think “revenge spending” means. But they’re … ContinuedThe post What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: IWC’s Head of R&D; on the New 2020 Complications SJX Watches
IWC s Head Jun 1, 2020

Interview: IWC’s Head of R&D; on the New 2020 Complications

A watchmaker who also trained as an engineer, Stefan Ihnen has been leading IWC’s movement development since 2006, continuing the brand’s long-established tradition of concise and practical movements. This year Mr Ihnen and his team rolled out new movements in a trio of Portugieser models – the Yacht Club Moon and Tide, Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph, and Monopusher Chronograph – all built according to a philosophy that mixes technical accompaniment with practicality. Since the 1980s, IWC’s movements have been characterised by a pragmatic approach, making a virtue of constructing the most complex mechanisms in a simple, robust manner. The philosophy gave birth to many of the brand’s hallmark complications such as the Da Vinci perpetual calendar and the Il Destriero Scafusia, both complicated but powered by the Valjoux 7750. The cal. 82835 in the new Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide And in the year 2000, the brand debuted the cal. 5000, an extra-large automatic movement with a seven-day power reserve and Pellaton winding mechanism, marking the start IWC’s modern generation of in-house movements. Twenty years on, IWC boasts an extensive range of proprietary calibres of 10 movement families. Beyond the solid and impressive foundations, the movements sometimes incorporate esoteric complications, ranging from a constant force tourbillon, and the a newly-introduced tide complication. Mr Ihnen is the perfect person to shed light on these movements. Formal...

Nomos Introduces the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces May 25, 2020

Nomos Introduces the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition

To mark its 45th Anniversary, Ace Jewelers has once again turned to Nomos, resulting in the Tangente 38 Amsterdam Edition. It’s the third watch in the retailer’s Amsterdam series of limited editions, but the first based on Nomos’ signature Tangente, which was given a few Amsterdam-inspired tweaks in tribute to the retailer’s hometown. Initial thoughts Like Ace Jewelers’ earlier Nomos editions – the Club Campus Amsterdam and Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam – the new Tangente features an attractive black, white and red colour scheme based on the Dutch capital’s coat of arms. The splash of red inject a playful character to what is ordinarily a monochromatic watch. All the Amsterdam-specific details add up for a coherent and handsome design, even as a stand-alone Tangente independent of its inspiration. And it costs exactly the same as standard edition, making it a no-brainer if you like the stark colours. The Amsterdam editions: Zürich Weltzeit (left), Tangente 38 (middle) and Club Campus (right) Amsterdam-inspired The strong use of black, white and red is nod to the Amsterdam coat of arms. Though the dial is high contrast, the reference to the Dutch city is subtle. The dial is stark, in matte-black with silvered minutes track, hands and indices as well as accents of bright red in the seconds hand and the triply Saint Andrew’s crosses at six o’clock. The central element of the Amsterdam coat of arms, the trio of Saint Andrew’s crosses is also engraved on...

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Series P.01 Guilloche Meteorite SJX Watches
Breguet inspired aesthetic May 21, 2020

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Series P.01 Guilloche Meteorite

An educator turned guilloche specialist, Joshua Shapiro launched his namesake brand, J.N. Shapiro, in 2018 with the Infinity Series. a classically-styled wristwatch with a hand-made guilloche dial featuring a nested engine-turned pattern of his own invention. His latest creation is the Infinity Series P.01, a collaboration with Collective, an American watch-collector club. Though it looks similar to the standard Infinity Series at first glance, the P.01 most definitely isn’t. While it does have a guilloche dial, the dial material is not the usual silver and gold, but meteorite – a first in watchmaking. Initial thoughts Two things stand set the P.01 apart from Mr Shapiro’s work so far. The first is tangibly impressive – an engine-turned meteorite dial, a significant accomplishment in terms of craft and skill. The result is a striking surface that overlays the natural and random Widmanstätten pattern of the meteorite with Mr Shapiro’s sharply-executed engine turning, which sounds confusing but appears to be a pleasing mix of order and chaos. But perhaps more important for J.N. Shapiro as a brand is the brand-new serif typeface for the Arabic hour numerals. Designed with the help of an artist, the numerals give the watch a style that’s distinct – and more 20th century contemporary – compared to the typical J.N. Shapiro watch that features Roman numerals and a Breguet-inspired aesthetic. And the P.01 starts at US$21,500 in steel, which is not that much mor...

Recommended Watching: The Macaluso Collection of “Golden Age” Rally Cars SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux GP May 8, 2020

Recommended Watching: The Macaluso Collection of “Golden Age” Rally Cars

A legendary figure in the watch industry of the 1990s and early 2000s, Luigi “Gino” Macaluso was the owner of Sowind Group, the holding company for Girard-Perregaux (GP) and Daniel Jean Richard. Having started as the Italian distributor for several watch brands, he acquired GP in 1989 and turned it into one of the watchmaking stars of the next two decades, particularly with its haute horlogerie offerings and Ferrari timepieces. But he was long a racing driver at heart, having won several trophies as a driver for the Fiat Abarth team in the 1970s, including the 1972 European Rally Championship. Even as successful entrepreneur Macaluso continued his involvement in motor racing, including as Italy’s representative to the FIA World Council starting in 2005. The Ferrari F40 of the Macaluso collection. Photo – Fondazione Gino Macaluso Macaluso channelled part of the fortune he made in watchmaking into building a car collection, with a focus on rally cars, including prize-winning examples of the Lancia 037, Lancia LC1, and Fiat X1/9. Now the collection has become Fondazione Gino Macaluso per l’Auto Storica (which translates as “Gino Macaluso Foundation for Historic Cars”), located near Macaluso’s hometown of Turin. Last year, Goodwood Road & Racing, the magazine affiliated with the classic car race of the same name, was taken through the collection highlights by Gino’s son, Stefano Macaluso, who was once a designer at Girard-Perregaux. Like his father, Ste...

What is the ‘Baselworld Schnitzel Dinner’, and why does it matter?  Time+Tide
May 3, 2020

What is the ‘Baselworld Schnitzel Dinner’, and why does it matter? 

The first rule about Schnitzel Dinner is that you don’t ask to be invited to Schnitzel Dinner. You be nice to Frank from Monochrome. You wait by the inbox. You hope like hell you’re going to be in ‘the 45’.  The first part was the problem for us at Time+Tide. The Dutchies are just so … ContinuedThe post What is the ‘Baselworld Schnitzel Dinner’, and why does it matter?  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be Apr 9, 2020

The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it

Let’s not mince words. Watch and carmakers have been jointly responsible for some very, very lazy collaborative timepieces. I won’t pick on too many examples … but to say that some of Ferrari’s early efforts with Panerai and Girard-Perregaux lacked imagination would be a gross understatement. The Prancing Horse turned it around though – Maranello’s latest … ContinuedThe post The bar for car and watchmaker collabs is now very high, and Zenith’s Defy El Primero 21 Land Rover smashes it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The glacial glory of the Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition for 2020 Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition Apr 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The glacial glory of the Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition for 2020

Bold colours and textures. That’s how you could quickly sum up the Sixties collection that has been the vintage-inspired darling of the Glashütte Original lineup ever since they hit the scene. This year, the German-based manufacture has turned the volume down, opting for a much cooler and more restrained expression of the collection with glacier … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The glacial glory of the Glashütte Original Sixties blue Annual Edition for 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Apr 2, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands

On April Fools’ Day last year, H. Moser & Cie. published a doctored image of a watch with an all-black dial missing hands, a riff on its watches with blacker-than-black dials. The hoax watch turned into something of a hit, which has led to the latest trio of limited editions, the Vantablack Black Hands – which will also be available online directly from the brand. All three watches – ranging from a stainless-steel base model to a limited-edition tourbillon – feature dials coated in Vantablack, a high-tech coating that absorbs almost all incident light – making it extremely and almost absolutely black – matched with black-coated hands. Because the coating on the hands is more of a dark grey, and also glossy, the hands do actually stand apart from the dial, appearing to be suspended in nothing because the dial is so black. The Endeavour Tourbillon with the reflection being on the crystal, rather than the dial Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL in steel Invented by a spin-off from the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom, Vantablack is made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically, like a surface covered in really fine fur. The carbon nanotubes absorb 99.965% of incident light, resulting in a surface that resembles a deep, dark hole, which is an quirky and strangely appealing finish for a watch dial. Even though other substances are even blacker than Vantablack – with the record held by an MIT invention from 2019 –  Vantablack is the best-known...

The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2020

The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far

Editor’s note: ‘Modding’ a watch is not a trend in watchmaking, it is a trope. It has, and always will be, a part of the watchmaking and watch-wearing world as companies and individuals seek to personalise and individualise watches. A uniquely modified watch becomes more of a statement. And it offers an alternative to a ‘Piece … ContinuedThe post The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200 Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 DOXA’s revival Mar 30, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200

DOXA’s revival is something easily missed if you’re not paying close attention. Vintage-inspired or re-issued dive watches aren’t exactly selling for double the retail price due to lack of supply, but this DOXA SUB 200 isn’t just another trendy microbrand with an aesthetic and a good marketing team. When determining the legacy of a watchmaker, … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 200 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA001 Mar 9, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet

This year is a big one for Grand Seiko as it is the 60th anniversary of the brand, a number already made special with several limited editions. Over the last few days they have released several more, one of which is arguably their most impressive dive watch yet. Say hello to the Grand Seiko SLGA001, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is their best dive watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo Time+Tide
Mar 4, 2020

Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo

“To boldly go where no man has gone before …” For most people, that’s just a hackneyed line from Star Trek. For Victor Vescovo, it’s become a personal mission. Put simply, the American private equity investor is hell-bent on pushing his limits. He’s the first man to have reached the deepest points of four of the … ContinuedThe post Why I rely on mechanical watches in the most extreme environments known to man: Victor Vescovo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results Time+Tide
Mar 2, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results

Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist’s line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jean-Claude Biver reveals “the most beautiful watch I have ever seen” Time+Tide
Blancpain back Feb 24, 2020

Jean-Claude Biver reveals “the most beautiful watch I have ever seen”

Jean-Claude Biver is a horological superhero. The legendary watch entrepreneur brought Blancpain back to life, resuscitated Omega and turned Hublot into a super-brand for which LVMH paid almost half a billion dollars. As a result, he’s assembled a private watch collection that would do King Midas proud. Auction house Phillips understands the appeal, which is … ContinuedThe post Jean-Claude Biver reveals “the most beautiful watch I have ever seen” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal: Ben’s Bulgari Diagono Scuba Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco But Feb 16, 2020

What Sealed The Deal: Ben’s Bulgari Diagono Scuba

Ben came into the Time+Tide offices to buy a NATO strap for his TAG Heuer Monaco. But the conversation quickly turned to the unusual Bulgari diver’s watch on his wrist. Here, Ben explains the backstory behind the purchase and why - despite it contradicting everything he normally likes in a watch - he absolutely loves it. Originally, … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal: Ben’s Bulgari Diagono Scuba appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse Time+Tide
Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber Feb 3, 2020

What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse

It’s Australia’s biggest watch scandal in living memory. Hell, if anything is going to end up with a ‘-gate’ suffix in our world, it’s this. Last weekend, Rolexforums.com broke the news that Christopher Essery - the man behind @horologyhouse, a popular YouTube Channel, website and Instagram account renowned for its macro photography - is alleged to … ContinuedThe post What we know so far about the alleged fake Rolex scandal engulfing popular YouTuber @horologyhouse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jan 18, 2020

My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm

“Authentic” is an often misused and even abused accolade in today’s disposable and instant-service world. Consumers tend to be impressed for brief moments with the speed and functionality of an app, or the savings and convenience that a subscription model lends to their lifestyle. Less and less frequently, consumers are able to appreciate a product … ContinuedThe post My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White” SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 7, 2020

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White”

Having dropped enough hints – first the movement and then the platinum Speedmaster – that the launch is no longer a surprise, Omega has finally unveiled the watch many have been waiting for: the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 in steel, a remake of the Speedmaster “Ed White”. Notably, the latest remake means that Omega now has a remake hall of fame, having reproduced almost all of the historically significant vintage Speedmaster models, namely the ref. 2915, ref. 2998, ref. 105.012 (sort of), the ref. 145.022 in 18k gold, and now, the ref. 105.003 “Ed White”. Worn by astronaut Ed White in 1965 when he became the first American to accomplish a space walk, during the Gemini 4 mission, the Speedmaster ST 105.003 has since been nicknamed after White, who unfortunately died not long after when a fire consumed the cabin of the Apollo 1 spacecraft in 1967. Reproduced faithfully Distinguished by its straight lugs, the “Ed White” has been replicated in fine form with the new Moonwatch 321. Omega gets an A for execution with the remake, though its score for creativity won’t be quite as high. The new Speedmaster is a dead ringer for the original, but executed in modern materials – plus faux-vintage Super-Luminova, naturally. Details exactly as on the original include the applied Omega logo and stepped dial The bezel insert, for instance, is a “dot over 90” like the original, but is rendered in robust ceramic with white enamel tachymetric markings, instead of the fra...

The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe Quill & Pad
Dec 21, 2019

The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe

“Nice shoes you’ve got there!” Miguel Seabra was walking down Church Road with Maurice de Mauriac founder Daniel Dreifuss and his youngest son Leo when they heard someone behind them praise Daniel’s Stan Smith Adidas footwear. They turned around to find it was Stan Smith himself, the American tennis champion from the 1970s after whom the famous sneakers are named. And that’s how the plans for the new Stan Smith Signature Watch all started!