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Deployant
For the first time, MB&F; is putting the work of a traditional artisan in the spotlight, with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ Limited Edition: a series of eight unique pieces featuring the extraordinary imagination and skill of the well-known engraver in depicting the novels of Jules Verne.
WatchAdvice
I have made a promise to myself for this review, absolutely no cheesy 80’s movie quotes for this review. The IWC Top Gun pilots watch is after all, not associated or affiliated with any Tom Cruise movie whatsoever. This watch is part of an ongoing collaboration with the Strike tactics instructor program of the US navy. A partnership that began back in 2007, in which IWC manufacture watches specially designed from robust materials. The use of alternative case materials is a focal point of all the Top Gun watches from IWC, with models being constructed from titanium, ceramic and a hybrid paring of the two; Ceratanium. The use of tougher metals comes from the watches needing to meet the specific requirements of elite jet fighter pilots, those ‘Top Gun’s’ if you will. Recently I got the chance to go hands on with the latest three hander in the Top Gun series, the automatic pilots watch in Ceramic. My initial impressions of the watch were overwhelmingly positive. At 41mm x 11.4mm, the ceramic cased timepiece really appealed to me visually. I have never really been a huge fan of traditional Flieger style watches, the dials always felt so cluttered and heavy. Of course I understand the need for the traditional type A and type B style Flieger watches. Flieger style pieces were born of necessity and practicality during the second World War. Pilots needed large dials and indices for precisely timing flights and bombing runs, the watches therefore bore oversized hands, huge...
SJX Watches
Conceived specifically for The King’s Man film, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is modelled on a 1907 pocket watch and entirely fitting for a film about a fictional spy agency located in a Savile Row tailor’s shop. The watch was launched to coincide with the scheduled premiere of the third instalment in the Kingsman franchise, but the movie was postponed to early 2021, though the watch was not. Initial thoughts The Kingsman Knife Watch caught my attention the JLC announced it not too long ago; it was obviously a classically-styled watch but with enough of a twist to make it interesting. The Kingsman tie up was a point to note, but not particularly compelling. Despite its qualities, the watch was expensive. Examining it in the metal confirms my initial reaction. Despite being simple, the Knife Watch is quirky and compelling. It also sits relatively well on the wrist, despite extreme flatness and the faux bow at 12 o’clock. But the execution of the dial falls short – the printing isn’t neatly done and also feels too flat. Even with the constraints of a ultra-thin watch, it should be better, especially given the price. And the price is a big one. This costs double the currently-available Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds (which is automatic and an inexact comparison), and 55% more than the Master Ultra Thin 1907 that was discontinued in 2017. Even being a small run of 100 watches, the Knife Watch feels too expensive for what it is. Razo...
Revolution
“I called it Polo because it had a sensibility that was sporty and international. It was sophisticated and stylish. Polo had an imagery that represented a lifestyle, and style is forever.” – Ralph Lauren
Revolution
How a watch from the annals of military history-and a brand that embodies Italian swagger-redefined “cool” for a new generation of collectors.
Time+Tide
For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Moomin universe was created by the late Swedish-speaking Finn Tove Jansson. It comprises a microcosm of Jansson’s fairytale version of Scandinavia thrown in a blender with Roald Dahl and a sprinkling of J.R.R. Tolkien. And that’s all present in the Sarpaneva x Moomin watch honoring the 75th anniversary of Jansson’s highly successful book, 'The Moomins and the Great Flood.' This watch has a secret, though. Find it here!
Deployant
Bell & Ross introduces a bright new orange colourway for their popular square diver – the BR 03-02 Diver Orange. Press Release Bell & Ross – the ultimate reference in the world of professional aviation watches – is constantly striving for excellence. Each watch is designed in harmony with the context in which itRead More
Revolution
Frederique Constant found the perfect partner in the RedBar Group to create two special limited edition Frederique Constant Highlife watches.
Time+Tide
Hublot’s Big Bang series this autumn is like an unstoppable tank, with this last month being marked by strong new editions of Big Bang and the Spirit of Big Bang. But no watch has quite captured all that the brand has become quite like this urban warrior, with an almost imperious level of quality and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black. Initial thoughts Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux? The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is. And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value. Restrained style Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch. An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock. It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is ma...
Time+Tide
There are certain experiences we have on a regular basis at Time+Tide that you may not be aware of, or have shared in any way. Yes, even you, hardcore fans. COVID-19 has made it possible for us to bring you in on it. It’s the presentation of the watches. The way we learn about them. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The demise of chronometry competitions last year – when the final edition of Concours International de Chronométrie took place – finally killed the dangerous heresy that a watch is a practical instrument that should be trusted to show the correct time. With the elimination of the last scientific and independent assessment of a watch’s worth, the cult of haute horlogerie comes into its own, reinforcing its definition of a watch as an emotional product born of passion, tradition and prestige. Trials to see who can produce the most precise, accurate and reliable watch originated in Geneva in 1879, when the head of its observatory, Professor Emile Plantamour, devised a testing routine that rated watches in the various positions and temperatures encountered in everyday wear. Observatories soon became the influencers of the pocket-watch age, determining the legitimacy and worth of luxury timepieces. American magnates like James Ward Packard, Henry Graves Jr and Pierpont Morgan secured the most highly rated pieces. A Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch that was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory in 1968; this particular example once belong to Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation (FFC) Despite the advent of wristwatches, the Neuchatel Observatory kept the competitions alive until 1968 when Japanese entrants swept the board. In 1972, deputation of Swiss watch brand executive petitioned the Neuchâtel government minister Ren...
Quill & Pad
According to Joshua Munchow, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most astounding pieces to be released in 2020, and when he first saw it on social media he actually gasped out loud. The more that he looked at it the more he fell in love with the style, the engineering, and the concept behind the movement. But he must ask: is it really a chronometer?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Join the guys as they dig through history, noteworthy models, famous owners, and more. Plus, you'll catch a glimpse at a new, very special series on the website and some awesome Patreon contributor wrist checks.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER have launched the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch, a limited edition of 100 timepieces, specially adapted for The King’s Man, the upcoming Kingsman origins film directed by Matthew Vaughn.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has just taken the covers off the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001, a medium-sized take on its original dual-time zone aviator’s watch. Originally launched in pink gold, and then in steel as a limited edition, the compact pilot is now available in white gold. Now very much a familiar part of the Calatrava range, the pilot’s watch was a surprise when it was first launched. A radically new design for the classical watch manufacturer when it debuted in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time sparked some controversy, mainly centred the generic aviator’s watch look and the oversized pushers. Several additional models later, the Calatrava Pilot is a full collection of watches, ranging from the time-only limited edition made for the New York Grand Exhibition to an alarm that chimes like a repeater, and now the mid-size Travel Time in white gold. Initial thoughts While the sporty look suits the original model with its large 42 mm case, the smaller case appeals to people with more traditional tastes or smaller wrists, making the new mid-size version an intuitive and complementary edition to the line. It’s essentially a more wearable version of an appealing watch. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time looks more youthful than the average Calatrava, though that’s changing with recent releases like the ref. 6007A, owing to the oversized numerals and large pushers. Still, in traditional Patek Philippe style, the overall feel is refined for a pilot’s wat...
Deployant
A quick one today with a pictorial on a rather rare camera, which was announced by Hasselblad on July 2019, and began shipping sometime first quarter this year. This is the Hasselblad 907X Special Moon Edition, a rather rare camera. We bring you photographs on a recent handling session with the camera owned by aRead More
Deployant
Hublot celebrates the 40th Anniversary of Fusion by reinventing its Classic Original from 1980 as the Classic Fusion with new dials, materials and larger case size. Press Release Hublot Classic Fusion The new Classic Fusion models capture the elegance and timeless refinement of the 1980 Classic Original, as well as four decadesRead More
![This hour-long Watch & Chill video about the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 starring Eric Ku is essential viewing](https://timeandtidewatches.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/AP2.png)
Time+Tide
There are certain projects that draw you in from the minute they commence. When Michael Friedman, the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, and his team floated the idea of a round table on Zoom with collector and watch dealer Eric Ku on the subject of a watch I find insanely compelling – the [Re]master01 … ContinuedThe post This hour-long Watch & Chill video about the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 starring Eric Ku is essential viewing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
And why it could be important.
Revolution
George Bamford’s latest and first collboration with Casio, the Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 is a homerun, perfect for current global climate.
Time+Tide
An automatic dive watch that brings value to both your wrist and environmental efforts, the Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean SRPE33K is the latest special edition made in honour of protecting the ocean. Across the board, Seiko is known for providing high horological value at lower price points than its Swiss peers and the “Save … ContinuedThe post The new Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K has a scratched blue ocean dial you have to see to believe… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It cannot be refuted how much Switzerland has influenced horology and the luxury watch industry at large. As a result, designs across brands can seem familiar when they all draw from the same well of inspiration and technique. Bulgari, however, continues to stand out from the pack, blending its Swiss watchmaking know-how with its Italian … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties show the “jeweller of time” in absolutely top form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale stays true to the military watch from which it draws its inspiration, while meeting today’s aesthetic and technical requirements.
SJX Watches
Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...
Revolution
Hublot re-introduces the original 1980 Hublot watch for the 21st century, in yellow gold, titanium and black ceramic (45mm) powered by an automatic movement.
Time+Tide
As most watch collectors will agree, there are few things better than getting a new watch in your collection. It’s the thrill of having a new watch on your wrist that you’ve been thinking about for weeks or months, and is the culmination of researching, considering and finally pulling the trigger on that special piece … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook, now with interchangeable straps gives you three for the price of one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A pioneer in independent watchmaking, Franck Muller was most famous for its graceful tonneau-shaped case but the brand was also particularly productive with complications in the 1990s and early 2000s. Amongst its most notable inventions were the double-face chronograph and whimsical Crazy Hours. But the brand’s technical creativity was present at the other end of utility spectrum as well – something exemplified by the Master Banker, a wristwatch unveiled in 1993 that boasted three separate time zones, each with independent hours and minutes. Now the watch has been given a new lease of life as the Cintrée Curvex Master Banker Asia Exclusive, that’s available in two case sizes, seven distinct colours, and various case materials, including steel, rose gold, and diamond-set rose gold. Initial thoughts Although powered by a humble ETA base movement, the Master Banker is a surprisingly accomplished complication, yet smartly constructed to be simple and robust. The time zone complication is practical for tracking times in multiple countries, but it is rarely instantly legible, especially when multiple time zones are displayed. With two largish sub-dials – each with their own hour and minute hands – the Master Banker solves the problem instantly. Not only is it legible, each of its sub-dials can be set to time zones with unconventional offsets – like 45 minutes for Kathmandu – allowing the watch to track any time zone in the world. The only downside of the display ...
Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Breguet Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, the first Tradition timepiece with a date function.
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