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Konstantin Chaykin Jan 24, 2020

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Mouse King

Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin had a hit on his hands when he unveiled the Joker at Baselworld 2017. Inspired by the “moving eye” clocks invented by German clockmaker J. Oswald in 1926, the Joker has since been iterated into several new versions, including the one-off Joker Selfie that sold for 75,000 Swiss francs at last year’s Only Watch charity auction. To mark the upcoming Chinese Year of the Rat, Konstantin has created a special variant of the Joker – the Mouse King – featuring the same “rolling eye” time display, but powered by a new base movement. According to Konstantin, the genesis of the watch came during the recent Christmas season, when he read the German fairytale The Nutcracker and the Mouse King, or Nussknacker und Mausekönig in its original language, to his daughter. A story about a nutcracker doll that comes to life and then defeats the evil Mouse King, the fairytale is the basis for Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker. But most relevant to Konstantin is the fact that one of its main characters, Drosselmeyer, is a clockmaker. And in another coincidence, the Chinese Year of the Rat begins on January 25, 2020, which is also his daughter’s birthday. And so the Mouse King watch was created, as a limited edition of seven watches – because the evil Mouse King has seven heads, each wearing a golden crown. It indicates the hours and minutes regulator-style with a”moving eye” display, along with the moon phase at six o’clock ...

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Bulgari CEO adds his voice Jan 23, 2020

VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction

There was not a moment’s hesitation. Jean-Christophe Babin, the CEO of Bulgari, and I were standing on a pool deck at a villa in Dubai. Within sight, an emerald green ocean. Swaying palm trees. Skies of blue. A world away from the scene I had left, when I’d jumped on an Emirates flight 24 hours … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: “Our planet is the most precious gem we have.” Bulgari CEO adds his voice – and a $50K watch – to our bushfire appeal auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Jan 21, 2020

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing

Editor’s note: In 2019 we saw the popularity of existing steel sports watches with blue dials hit fever pitch on the secondary market, as well as a number of brands release their own examples of the watch that everyone wants on their wrist. But what about when a brand produces a watch that doesn’t just … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is a sports watch to get the heart racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Cartier clockmaking Jan 21, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery

Louis Cartier has an important place in the history of the Cartier company, not only because he ran the first-ever Paris boutique but because he was responsible for one of the most enigmatic creations the brand released, the Cartier Mystery Clock. The origins of the Mystery Clock are found in 1912, when Louis Cartier began … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Cartier clockmaking is a mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oris Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth?

Hodinkee’s extraordinary run of sold-out limited edition models only became more of a water-cooler conversation topic when the 250-run of the Oris Divers Sixy-Five Limited Edition for Hodinkee was released, to be sold out in less than 10 minutes. The team generously offer one of their own brand new archive models of the highly sought … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chopard L.U.C watchmaking Chopard have Jan 20, 2020

VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking

Chopard have been an important firm in the Swiss luxury landscape since they were founded in 1860, but they weren’t always the house of haute horology that they are today. It wasn’t until just over a quarter of a century ago, in 1993, when Karl-Friedrich Scheufele made the decision to refocus the brand’s energies into … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The History of Chopard L.U.C watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Jan 19, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic With Full Metal Bracelet: Inspiring Amnemori!

The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is about firsts for Moser: its first chronograph complication, its first bracelet, its first cushion-shaped case, a brand-new dial, hands, and a new movement. But what grabbed Joshua Munchow from the start was the bracelet, and that is when the amnemori began. What is that? Joshua explains here in detail.

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Time+Tide

Tissot trifecta Jan 18, 2020

Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019

Tissot had a resolutely excellent end to the decade, releasing plenty of exciting new timepieces in 2019 that got the watch community talking. What’s more, the Swiss watchmaker made a conscious effort to cater to both people just getting into watches, as well as the dyed-in-the-wool veterans. We won’t cover every new timepiece Tissot unveiled … ContinuedThe post Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jan 14, 2020

Marvellous mil-specs: 3 great military-spec watches

Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon - suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you’re the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want … ContinuedThe post Marvellous mil-specs: 3 great military-spec watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Jan 10, 2020

Happenings: A Marvelous Exhibition Of Mechanical Masterpieces At The Met

Look what you can get done when you're not goofing around on social.

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Time+Tide

Tissot Jan 8, 2020

Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market

Editor’s note: When you’re looking to buy your next watch, you want to know you’re getting great value for the money you’re spending. This Tissot Seastar 1000 could still be one of the best value watches on the market after its release at Baselworld 2018, and there’s no sign of that changing. Let’s take a … ContinuedThe post Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jan 4, 2020

Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019

One of the most polarising materials to make a return to prominence in watchmaking over the last couple of years has been bronze. Why does this ancient material cause so much conjecture when it’s used as a timepiece’s case material? Well, for a start, it can’t come into direct contact with your skin for prolonged … ContinuedThe post Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Dec 30, 2019

LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019

It pains me so to admit this, but oftentimes a story is only as good as the photos that accompany it - especially when you’re writing about something as intricate and nuanced as watches. A good snap of a timepiece is not only the glorious icing on a particularly wordy cake, it actually assists us … ContinuedThe post LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Dec 26, 2019

Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch

Colin was wearing a steel watch with blue dial when the receptionist at the trading company he was working for, a chirpy lass straight out of the BBC’s 'Eastenders' soap opera, looked down disdainfully and said, “I hate watches with blue dials. They remind me of old men in pubs.” What happened after that can only be described as a case of gerontohorologyphobia: fear of inadvertently wearing an old man's watch.

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SJX Watches

Breguet Classique 5177 Dec 26, 2019

Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel

Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...

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Hodinkee

Dec 22, 2019

Sunday Rewind: The Why Of Clockwise

Discovering the roots of "clockwise" and when it's okay to break the format.

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Quill & Pad

Dec 21, 2019

The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe

“Nice shoes you’ve got there!” Miguel Seabra was walking down Church Road with Maurice de Mauriac founder Daniel Dreifuss and his youngest son Leo when they heard someone behind them praise Daniel’s Stan Smith Adidas footwear. They turned around to find it was Stan Smith himself, the American tennis champion from the 1970s after whom the famous sneakers are named. And that’s how the plans for the new Stan Smith Signature Watch all started!

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Time+Tide

Longines nicest pilot’s watches? Dec 17, 2019

Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines’ nicest pilot’s watches?

Editor’s note: Almost all reissues of vintage timepieces have an exciting story to tell – that’s just the way it is, otherwise watchmakers wouldn’t bother remaking. Thing is, though, when a watch manufacturer does decide to create an homage timepiece, they usually have the original in their possession. That was not the case when Longines … ContinuedThe post Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines’ nicest pilot’s watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Dec 15, 2019

VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool

Sometimes, it pays to be conservative. It isn’t advice that should be regularly advocated; however, when it comes to what you wear on your wrist, sometimes it is a must to have something that is at the same time classic and crisp. In the case of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic white dial, that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique It was Dec 15, 2019

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique

It was only three short years ago when the first-ever Australian Seiko Boutique opened in Sydney, but the Japanese powerhouse has kept very busy, announcing the exciting news of the opening of the first-ever Australian Grand Seiko Boutique. This is a strong statement from the brand as they continue to drive the distinction of Grand … ContinuedThe post 3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Dec 15, 2019

Breaking News: ETA May Not Be Delivering Movements In 2020, Possibly Crippling The Watch Industry

The Swiss press is reporting that the tug of war between Swatch Group and Comco is now back on the table – and could result in dire consequences for the entire industry as soon as 2020, when ETA may stop delivering movements to outside brands. Get the story here.

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Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Monaco? It’s been Dec 14, 2019

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco?

It’s been a big year for the TAG Heuer Monaco as it celebrated 50 years of production from when it was first released in 1969. The brand has released a number of limited editions this year in celebration; however, they arguably saved the most important release till last with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Dec 7, 2019

Frosted gold is very, very underrated

Editor’s note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering … ContinuedThe post Frosted gold is very, very underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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D Deployant

Deployant

Dec 7, 2019

Is newer always better? Buy vintage or go homage?

Homage or vintage? Retail or ceased production? At a certain stage in watch collecting, many may face this conundrum. Should I get a modern iteration of a watch, when the original vintage is potentially more desirable?

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Quill & Pad

Casio n Dec 6, 2019

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Iconic Pont Des Amoureux Timepiece Makes A Comeback Paying Tribute To Tales Of Love

It was a cold, wet, and windy autumn day when Van Cleef & Arpels invited Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle and a few colleagues on a boat ride along the Seine river through central Paris. The occasion (and the boat ride) was just the start as the launch of the new and improved Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, which has now been expanded into an entire collection gathered under the umbrella of "Love Stories," was the main attraction.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Dec 5, 2019

In-Depth: My Hunt For John Glenn's Watches

What happened when eight watches worn by the American astronaut and senator suddenly turned up at a little-noticed estate sale in a suburban home.

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Quill & Pad

Jaquet Droz Dec 4, 2019

Jaquet Droz’s Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video)

Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake-Marin, highlights here.

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SJX Watches

TAG Heuer Mikrograph one Dec 3, 2019

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero Defy 21 Carbon

Zenith’s streak of high-tech watches – including this year’s Defy Inventor and El Primero Double Tourbillon – began in 2017, when it unveiled the El Primero Defy 21. The watch is a chronograph with a dual-train construction that accommodates a high-frequency chronograph with a resolution of 1/100th of a second and a lightning seconds hand that whizzes round the dial once a second. Originally offered only in ceramic, titanium or gold, the high-frequency chronograph is available in a featherweight carbon composite case – arguably best suited to its styling and complication – with the launch of the El Primero Defy 21 Carbon. A familiar style The unusual movement of the Defy 21 is inspired by the similar constructed movement in the TAG Heuer Mikrograph, one of many high-frequency chronographs devised by Guy Sémon, the resident technical guru at TAG Heuer, a sister company of Zenith. Notably, the Mikrograph and the Defy 21 are the only serially produced, 1/100th of a second chronographs on the market today. Due to the movement’s dual-train architecture – essentially two independent movements on one base plate – the case is a large 44mm in diameter and 14.4mm high. But being carbon composite, it manages to remain lightweight despite the size. At the same time, the predominantly black colour scheme across the case and dial also makes the watch look smaller than it is, especially compared with versions of the Defy 21 in gold or titanium. Visually, the case i...

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Time+Tide

Pequignet Dec 2, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone’s life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée’s new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 01 Laughing Skull White

While skull watches are very much today’s fad, Bell & Ross’ use of the Jolly Roger started a decade ago with the BR 01 Skull, with its square watch case being a perfect frame for a bony visage. The brand’s skull watches have proliferated since then, but the evolution had been purely cosmetic, until last year when the brand unveiled a watch as elaborate mechanically as it is aesthetically – the BR 01 Laughing Skull, powered by a proprietary movement with a simple automaton of a skull that opens and closes it jaw. And this year, B&R; has introduced the BR 01 Laughing Skull White, with the skull finished in a bone-like lacquer. Distinctive face Like all BR-01 watches, the case is 46mm wide, but it is a tad thicker than the static skull watches at 13.5mm high, but that’s a functional requirement, a result of the automaton on the movement. In short, it is a large watch, but that’s exactly the point. The case is sandblasted steel and is decorated with stamped hobnails on the top surface and case back, giving it a pronounced, distinctive character. And it is worth noting the unusual finish of the skull would work quite well with a case in bronze, a material that B&R; has used liberally in the past and will probably continue to. The dial features a photo-realistic appliqué skull that’s been stamped out of brass, and then painted matte off-white with shading to create shadow and depth. The result is striking – at a distance, the skull is seemingly projecting out o...

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