Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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Tudor Black Bay GMT One Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Tudor Black Bay GMT One

Tudor’s entry into Only Watch 2021 is typical – a reinterpretation of one of its current models – but at the same time strikingly unusual. The Black Bay GMT One is a dual time zone with a heavily aged finish on the case and bracelet, along with an open back showing off a movement similar to that found in the recent Black Bay Ceramic. Initial thoughts Tudor’s watches are ordinarily excellent quality and tremendous value, though most are styled within certain aesthetic confines. The brand gets to do things differently at Only Watch, and the Black Bay GMT One is probably the most interesting to date. Most Tudor watches look shiny and new, and even those that acquire a patina remain pristine under the crystal. The GMT One is purposefully aged, even on the dial and movement, which gives it a lived-in look that’s appealing in a sports watch. Granted, the aged bracelet seems a bit much – I’d wear it on a strap – but given that there’ll only be one of these and it’ll sell for about US$350,000 that’s a moot point. Lastly, it’s notable that the GMT One is powered by a Master Chronometer movement, perhaps a reference to the strategic genius of the similar movement found in the Black Bay Ceramic. Slightly worn The GMT One has a case steel and bracelet that are identical to that found on the standard model, except for the surface treatment. Both are finished with a black coating that is then partially and randomly worn off via tumble polishing, creating an aged-...

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202XT

Audemars Piguet (AP) has made no secret of the fact that it’s retiring the Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 15202 at the end of 2021 – along with the slim cal. 2121 movement inside. Essentially a remake of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 “Jumbo” launched in 1972, the ref. 15202 will be missed and its successor much anticipated. But AP is saying farewell in style at Only Watch 2021 with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Only Watch ref. 15202XT in titanium and bulk metallic glass. Despite the modern materials, the watch is a dead ringer for an “A Series” Royal Oak ref. 5402 because the dial is a replica of the original, right down to the typography. Note the typography, as well as “Swiss” at six under the indices – details identical to those on the ref. 5402 Initial thoughts It’s hard to render the ref. 15202 unattractive. Close to the original in look and feel, the ref. 15202 has been iterated several times in the last few years, with each version slightly different in style but similarly attractive – examples include the “salmon” or smoked-green versions. Dressed in shades of grey, the Only Watch edition differs from its predecessors in colour and texture, but remains equally handsome. The all-grey, tone-on-tone palette has an appealing industrial feel, which suits the angular style that’s slightly brutal but refined in construction. The colours are not the only differentiating factor for the Only Watch “Jumbo”. The sandblasted titanium case ...

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SJX Watches

Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21

Founded to give new life to vintage chronometer movements and resurrect old-school designs, Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) has completed only a few watches to date, but has quickly become known for wristwatches that are elegantly refined inside and out. In its inaugural outing at Only Watch, the watchmaker put together the AdC21, a time-only watch that is simple but executed with lavish detail, and dressed in a nostalgic, “pink on pink” livery. Like AdC’s other creations, the AdC21 is powered by a movement that started life as a vintage ébauche before being upgraded with parts fabricated by hand in-house. And the movement has been finished to level far beyond what the vintage calibre ever was. Initial thoughts AdC watches are intrinsically appealing to enthusiasts who favour old-school dress watches, which often have discreet, refined details that are uncommon in contemporary watches. One of the brand’s cofounders is a vintage watch dealer whose eye and experience explain the house style. At the same time, AdC elevates the design with the artisanal quality of the case and movement, most of which are made in house. The AdC21 is arguably the best time-only watch the brand has created to date. Entirely classical yet novel, the dial has a two-tone finish matched with an unusual interpretation of the “scientific” dial. And the case is also more elaborately constructed than those found on AdC’s earlier works. Beyond the design and craft, the shades of pink that d...

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Rexhep Rexhepi Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...

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F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...

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Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001

Departing from its Only Watch tradition of unique versions of current-production wristwatches, Patek Philippe’s contribution to Only Watch 2021 is a desk clock with perpetual calendar modelled on a 1923 original now in the Patek Philippe Museum. The Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 is inspired by a desk clock owned by James Ward Packard, the American automobile tycoon who was one of Patek Philippe’s leading clients in the 1920s. Made of sterling silver and vermeil with inlays of American walnut, the clock contains a 31-day movement featuring a perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Topping the mega, CHF31 million result for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A at Only Watch 2019 would be hard to imagine since the Grandmaster Chime is the most complicated and expensive watch in the brand’s catalogue. Resetting the counter with a desk clock is a shrewd move since its avoids comparisons with the wristwatch of 2019. That said, the desk clock is actually more unique than anything else Patek Philippe has made in recent memory – it is literally the timepiece of this form that exists. Even the unique Dome Clocks and desk clocks that Patek Philippe offer in its annual Rare Handcrafts line up are based on standard templates. It’s worth noting that the desk clock has a “rose-gold opaline” dial similar to that of the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, so it might make a nice pair for the buyer of the 2019 watch. Packard’s clock The inspiration for this clock...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Jun 29, 2021

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown

Much like the many-headed Hydra that Hercules was sent to kill in the Greek legends, the coronavirus pandemic is a beast that just won’t go away. Just when one head has been cut off, two more grow back in its place. As a result of this multifaceted challenge, greater Sydney (as well as several other … ContinuedThe post Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hodinkee

Jun 23, 2021

Interview: The Man Trying To Make A 100% French Watch

It's a quixotic quest. But using cast-off watch movements, Colin de Tonnac is 95% of the way there.

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Hodinkee

Jun 23, 2021

Sunday Rewind: Dive Watch Myths You Shouldn't Be Repeating

Feelings aren't facts.

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Hodinkee

Jun 23, 2021

Hands-On: Traversing The Straight And Narrow With A Grassroots Dive Watch

The Raven Trekker 39 proves that less can be more if you do it right.

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Time+Tide

Jun 21, 2021

What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics?

Kim Jong Un is the leader of North Korea and understandably has a lot on his plate. From United States offers to meet and discuss his nuclear program to the issue of food running low throughout his kingdom, he doesn’t have the time to slowly and carefully select his watch every morning, so he wears … ContinuedThe post What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jun 15, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell

As reported last week by Alex Heath for The Verge, Facebook is reported to be working on its very own smartwatch, due for launch in the middle of 2022. This will be the first time the tech giant is making a play for your wrist real estate, taking on the mighty Apple Watch which remains … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Jun 13, 2021

What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist)

Our European editor, Mike Christensen, teams up with Andrew Vottero – Jeff Goldblum’s personal stylist – to help fellow timepiece aficionados ensure any bling they wear is complementing their watches and not detracting from them. We all love watches, that much we can agree on. But are we wearing them correctly with other pieces of … ContinuedThe post What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko blue snow You don’t Jun 10, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow

You don’t hear about watch scams very often. So when the inside story of a fiendish attempt recently emerged, we interviewed the gentleman who almost became the victim. Gautaman Senivasan is a Singapore watch collector and trader who invited a prospective buyer into his home to inspect some watches he was selling. What happened next … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Jun 2, 2021

Professional Watch Journalists Reveal What Makes Them Tick: WATCH-ing Out  (Video)

Many professsional watch journalists may or may not have loved watches when they first started writing about them. But attitudes and personal tastes transform over time, so that some journalists who started in another field may come to love watches more than they ever thought possible. And four of them feature in this Instagram Live video. The overriding question answered is what makes individuals like us decide on what we do, say, buy, collect, and, above all, write?

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Deployant

Petermann Bédat May 28, 2021

Watchscapes: Petermann Bédat 1967 Chapter 1 – the new watch in photographs

We managed to get our hands on with a sample of the Petermann Bedat 1967 Chapter 1 Jumping Seconds watch in pink gold recently. Here is the Watchscapes.

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Time+Tide

Rado May 27, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Exploring Tasmania with Rado, the best watch for a job interview and a new column on T+T

In a depressingly predictable turn of events, Melbourne is back under lockdown. Luckily, just before we were imprisoned in our homes once again, Andrew and I managed to escape to Tasmania for a press event to celebrate the Rado Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic. The Captain Cook is squarely aimed at “the modern explorer” and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Exploring Tasmania with Rado, the best watch for a job interview and a new column on T+T appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

May 27, 2021

How the Apple Watch was my gateway drug into watch collecting

Showing up at a watch collector’s meetup with an Apple Watch, is kind of the horological gathering equivalent of walking out of the bathroom with toilet paper stuck under your shoe. The truth is there is nothing wrong with owning an Apple Watch – they are very well-built devices and still the undisputed king of … ContinuedThe post How the Apple Watch was my gateway drug into watch collecting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

May 18, 2021

Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead?

Last Thursday, Christies sold Picasso’s Woman Sitting by a Window in New York for USD$103.4M, the bidding lasting a full 19 minutes. This was the fifth Picasso to sell for more than USD$100M and a sign that the Málaga-born artist is as popular as ever. But while demand for his artwork is white-hot, a Picasso watch … ContinuedThe post Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

Cartier Tank – Reprise May 15, 2021

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank – Reprise

A grail watch can be pretty much anything. But one thing a grail watch always is is personal. Very personal. Martin Green was introduced to his personal grail watch by a close friend who had recently treated himself to a new watch: a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris Louis Cartier Tank in platinum. Here's the story of how Martin got his grail.

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Time+Tide

May 15, 2021

A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality

Handmade. That term, alongside hand-finished, is often thrown around in watchmaking, but the term is often misleading. It is very rare that a watch is 100% handmade, and those that are even predominantly handmade usually command incredibly high price tags due to the time-intensive process of fabrication. But what if I told you that a … ContinuedThe post A handmade watch for $2.5K USD? The Levenaig Lakeland 38 makes this a reality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko reflected May 11, 2021

Growing status of Grand Seiko reflected by results at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

Watch enthusiasts love Grand Seiko. But the question of whether top-tier bidders would paddle up for the brand at a Phillips auction remained uncertain – until this weekend at least. The reason? Unfortunately some narrow-minded collectors have been known to shun anything that is not Swiss made, with a clear inclination for Patek Phillipe and … ContinuedThe post Growing status of Grand Seiko reflected by results at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Seiko Turtle there’s no denying May 10, 2021

Watch photography made easy: How to master the pocket shot

Introduction Whether it’s flaunting your bling or showing your mates just how good that new tropic strap looks on your Seiko Turtle, there’s no denying that the modern interest in watches is massively fuelled by Instagram,  Alongside the wrist roll and the flat-lay shot, one of the most popular depictions is the apparently casual pocket … ContinuedThe post Watch photography made easy: How to master the pocket shot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

May 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey

Editor’s Note: I put this list together last August in the hope that I could help people avoid the sort of costly mistakes I’ve made during my watch collecting journey.  Ten years ago there were fairly minimal digital resources for watch enthusiasts to dig into, but today the problem, if anything, is that there is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Casio nally though May 3, 2021

5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists

Online shopping is an incredible thing. You can’t come into physical contact with every new watch release, so poring over press releases and store catalogues has become the only way we can analyse new watches. As a result, scrutinising images is now a hugely important part of our pre-purchase tool-set. Occasionally though, the quality of … ContinuedThe post 5 watch photos that leave us with a goofy grin and make us grateful we’ve got wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Cartier Tank include May 3, 2021

The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch

One mark of a great dress watch is to what extent it can be dressed up or down, and Cartier’s Tank design is surely one of the best examples. Although undoubtedly formal, there’s something about the clean rectangular motifs that work just as well contrasting with jeans and a t-shirt as it does with a … ContinuedThe post The new adventures of the Cartier Tank include a solar-powered watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quill & Pad

IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype May 1, 2021

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History

Lot 165 at Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIII on May 8-9, 2021 is one of the most important prototypes in the history of IWC. A true rarity and a true piece of watch history. It is Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph prototype. Elizabeth Doerr shares its history and meaning here. And why its creator is parting with it.

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Time+Tide

Cartier May 1, 2021

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide

Paris, Haute Couture and summer on the French Riviera – France has elegance ingrained into its very soul. Wrist-worn style is something we are used to seeing from both Cartier and Chanel, while Hermès has evolved into a serious horological prospect – take their sporty H8-series this year. But for the more budget-conscious, there is … ContinuedThe post The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Zenith Daytona Apr 23, 2021

Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum and Turquoise Sells for US$3.14m

The headline lot at Sotheby’s recently concluded Hong Kong watch auction, the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona with a platinum case and a turquoise mineral-stone dial – and not a blue lacquer “Stella” as originally believed – just sold for HK$24.375 million, or about US$3.14 million, fees included. The hefty result means the turquoise Daytona is the second-most expensive modern Rolex timepiece ever sold at auction, but just shy of the US$3.27 million record set by the unique platinum Daytona with a lapis lazuli dial that sold at Sotheby’s last year. With the sale of the turquoise Daytona, it means that three of the five unique platinum Daytonas have been sold at auction in as many years, all at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong. One of five The price achieved by the turquoise Daytona is unsurprisingly given its rarity: it is one of a five-piece run of the “Zenith” Daytona in platinum that were reputedly made at the behest of former Rolex chief executive Patrick Heiniger in 1999. All five watches share the same model reference 16516, and are powered by the Rolex cal. 4030 that’s based on the Zenith El Premiro movement. Four of the five are known, with the other examples featuring Tahitian mother-or-pearl, lapis lazuli, and coral dials. The platinum Daytona that was just sold had a turquoise stone dial, rendering it highly unusual as the material has never been used before in the Daytona, and confirming the belief that these watches were a prototype run for the su...

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