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Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Feb 15, 2023

Oris Coulson Limited Edition Hands-on Review

What we like: Dial is a real head turner3D Printed Carbon case is a winnerMassive five-day power reserve What we don’t like: Some may find it to be expensiveThe fingerprints easily show on the crystal Some may not appreciate the 3D-printed case Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8/10 2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation. Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place.  One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and...

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Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2023

Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude

Based in Belgium, Gavox was early on the micro-brand scene, launching in 2011 with their first watches crossing our desks in 2013. But it’s been a little while since we last had a Gavox in the office for review. In December 2019, they launched a 36mm pilot’s watch with a quartz movement and a “dirty dozen” appeal. As we all know, shortly after, life changed quite a bit. But Gavox persisted if quietly, making a bold return in late 2022 with the announcement of a new and ambitious watch powered by the equally exciting Miyota 9075 “flyer” GMT. Called the Longitude, it’s a fresh take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, combining a handful of timely trends into a well-specced-out package. Named to inspire a sense of exploration, it also has a personal connection Michael Happé, the founder of the brand. A descendant of Dirk Hartog, a 17th-century Dutch explorer who is credited as the first Western European to set foot in Australia, the watch celebrates this connection. Despite the historical and seemingly nautical roots of the Longitude, the watch itself is a very modern expression of adventure. Available in four colors at launch, including an entirely black DLC version, the Longitude has a final price tag of $1122, but is available for pre-order at $762 through March, 2023. $1122 Hands-On with the Rugged, Adventure-Ready, Gavox Longitude Case Kolsterized Steel Movement Miyota 9075 Dial Faceted Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated Bracelet Water Resistance...

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The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023 Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2023

The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023

Editor’s note: After spending a bit of time reflecting on the best moments, releases and trends of 2022, the Time+Tide team is now turning their attention to the year ahead. So we’ve assembled to present our predictions, hot takes and Hail Marys for 2023. Fergus Nash: Yellow gold should make a big comeback We’re living … ContinuedThe post The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial

Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...

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The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1) Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2023

The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1)

Watch enthusiasts are absolutely spoiled for choice at the moment, with microbrands and big brand budget options just getting better all the time. There’s never been a more competitive time in the watch world, with pretty much every kind of watch you can imagine currently being made. That said, if you’ve got a hankering so … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

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Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Collaborate Jan 20, 2023

Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance

We’ve covered the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers a few times since it was founded in 2020. We’ve had Christopher Ward’s Mike France and Roger Smith on our podcast to discuss the origins of the trade group, and we devoted a panel at last year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City to the coming “British Invasion” of watch brands, which the Alliance is a big part of. Mostly, though, we’ve just seen British brands have a real moment over the last several years, and two of our favorites have collaborated on the first watch released by the Alliance. The all new Fears Christopher Ward: Alliance 01 takes a slice of what we love about both brands and combines it into a very limited watch that will only be available to Alliance Club members.  It’s worth pointing out from the outset that this watch represents a big part of what the Alliance set out to do upon its founding, which is to foster collaboration between British watchmaking companies. Sharing resources and forging partnerships across the Alliance’s 77 trade members is very much the goal of the organization, and this new watch reflects that in a unique and highly tangible way.  The Alliance 01 is notable for the way it balances the aesthetic language that Fears has established over this most recent period in their history with the technical know-how of Christopher Ward. The stainless steel case is bespoke, made specifically for this project, but will immediately make Fears fans think of the cush...

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Zenith El Primero Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 20, 2023

Zenith El Primero Guide

The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...

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INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest Time+Tide
Jan 19, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest

Last year was a big year for Depancel, and 2023 is already getting off to a great start. The first Depancel Serie-A Allure was launched after crowdsourcing the design choices, resulting in a watch that guaranteed an adoring audience instantly. Some 500 pieces were made and sold, increasing the brand’s upwards trajectory and inspiring further … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Tangerine belongs to a tribe called zest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jan 18, 2023

Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days

The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...

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LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions Time+Tide
Hublot revitalises Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions

Hublot is kicking off 2023 with a big bang, debuting a brightly hued tourbillon in an exotic new material. An OG classic makes its return, now in new case materials and a wide range of size choices. A bold new chronograph looks and does good, created to benefit endangered wildlife. LVMH Watch Week is upon … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref Dec 23, 2022

Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites

Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....

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Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 17, 2022

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide – Reprise

Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.

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Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’ SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster Nov 29, 2022

Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’

Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

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Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 Time+Tide
Laco s classic chronograph returns Nov 20, 2022

Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2

As one of the clear leaders of German-made pilot’s watches, Laco’s chronograph releases are few and far between. While the flieger essentials Type A and Type B get lots of attention – an archetype that Laco summited with their customisable Flieger PRO – the chronographs of the German air force were far less common but … ContinuedThe post Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell Time+Tide
Hamilton as Nov 19, 2022

INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell

It’s been an eventful 12 months for George Russell. After his first real taste of Formula One victory was cruelly taken away from him as he filled in for a COVID-stuck Lewis Hamilton as the 2020 Sakir Grand Prix, Russell had to bide his time at Williams before getting his chance at the big time. … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #27 “GPHG Prize Categories” Time+Tide
Nov 12, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #27 “GPHG Prize Categories”

The GPHGs each year are a big moment for the watch industry. But as spectators, some find particular prize categories quite confusing – especially if they do not speak French. So, this week, in our biggest crossword yet, see just how well you understand the prize categories. Some are absolutely obvious, others may take a … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #27 “GPHG Prize Categories” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Fans Nov 4, 2022

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX

Fans of the best affordable integrated bracelet sports watch, rejoice! While possibly a bold claim, no other big box brand has managed to grasp the market quite as well as the Tissot PRX. Though successful, the Swatch Group brand has been pretty quiet with strap support for the PRX, despite its quick-release bracelet and the … ContinuedThe post Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 27, 2022

What are the Different Types of Watches? A Comprehensive Guide

To a newcomer, deciphering the world of timepieces can be an intimidating endeavor, and identifying the different types of watches presents a particular challenge. What distinguishes, say, a dive watch from a pilot watch, a quartz watch from a mechanical watch, a dual-time watch from a world timer? What are all those subdials and scales on the dial for? Do I need to change the date on my watch, and if so, how often? In this rundown of the various types of watches, we strive to answer the big questions (and/or link to another article that does).  Quartz vs. Mechanical vs. Automatic While watches vary widely in their styles, genres, and capabilities, they all fall into one of two major categories based on the type of movement inside them. Generally, with a few notable exceptions that we’ll touch upon, a watch is either “mechanical” or “quartz.” Mechanical watches further subdivide into two basic types: manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to periodically wind the watch via the crown to keep it working; and automatic (or “self-winding”), in which the movement’s mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight that swings with the natural motions of the wearer’s wrist. On the other hand, a quartz movement (as explained much more thoroughly in this article), replaces the mechanical movement’s traditional mainspring barrel with a small battery whose electrical charge passes via an integrated circuit into an oscillating tuni...

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