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Fratello
You might say that Omega’s Summer Blue collection is old news in 2024, and you’d be right. Omega’s Summer Blue line was hot and trendy in 2023, but it’s been a year, and aside from a few underwhelming Olympic models, we have not seen much from the Biel/Bienne-based brand. OK, there were the white-dial and […] Visit A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
SJX Watches
Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...
Worn & Wound
Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37? Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...
Worn & Wound
Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...
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Deployant
Another collaboration by Franck Muller. This time with Japanese artist Ryoko Kaneta with a cute depiction of a dragon girl on the dial.
Quill & Pad
At its core, the O.G. Deep Space is a very simple watch without any gimmicks masquerading as features, allowing it to be observed and appreciated for what it is, a solid time-only watch. It displays the hours and minutes on a supremely clean dial that lacks pomp or flourish, with just enough going on to create a strong first impression.
Worn & Wound
The latest from Furlan Marri pays tribute to a classic watch design while adding just enough of a twist to make it feel contemporary. The new Disco Volante takes a circular, flying saucer-like case that first became popular in the 1930s as its starting point, and tweaks the formula slightly. Thinking about Furlan Marri’s previous work and the design language they’ve established, the Disco Volante makes a lot of sense in their ongoing project of updating classic Art Deco ideas, and the watch really fits into the current moment as well, which has seen shaped cases and unusual designs pulled from the past and brought up to date for new audiences. The circular cases seen here have hidden lugs on the back side, so these sit as a perfect circle on the wrist. Cases with no visible lugs, of course, tend to wear a bit smaller, so Furlan Marri has chosen to make these Disco Volantes in 38mm as opposed to the more traditional 36mm cases found on vintage watches in this style. In theory, this should open up the Disco Volante to both men and women who are used to wearing modern watches, but seek something a little unusual and heavily vintage inspired. The integrated crown that sits flush with the case further reinforces the Disco Volante’s shape, as does the gently curved bezel. Three dial options are available at launch: Havana Disco, Disco Celeste, and Disco Verde. The Havana Disco is perhaps the most striking of the bunch, and acts as a link to Furlan Marri’s very first ...
Monochrome
Co-founded by Swiss industrial designer Andrea Furlan and watch collector Hamad Al Marri, Furlan Marri launched on Kickstarter in 2021 with a beautifully designed vintage chronograph powered by a hybrid mecha-quartz engine. The next act, in 2022, was an equally handsome vintage black sector dial equipped with a mechanical movement that won over the MONOCHROME […]
Time+Tide
The Swedish micro-brand has refined its diver offering in this Shellback V2 with its charismatic sandwich dial and respectable specs.The post The Tusenö Shellback V2 is a microbrand full package diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...
Fratello
The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic has quickly become a welcoming canvas for the creativity of the IFL Watches team. For its newest the creation, the brand was inspired by the “three wise monkeys” and the timeless proverb they depict. In great IFLW tradition, the colorful dial is modified to portray the proverb in a fun way. […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Wise Guys Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Angelus offers the Instrument de Vitesse in classic black or ivory dials, each limited to a ridiculously low 25 pieces. Martin Green thinks that the black dial with copper-colored numerals and railroad track with red details looks fabulous.
Monochrome
Considering how time is indicated on most watches – hands rotating 360-degree around the dial – it is no surprise that the vast majority of timepieces available on the market have round cases. But there is always room for creativity, originality and audacity. Watches don’t have to be round to be either striking or elegant. […]
Deployant
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic "Blue" is a notable addition to the Black Bay lineup, featuring a 41mm matte black ceramic case and a striking matte blue dial. This model retains the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1 movement, ensuring high precision and anti-magnetic properties. The watch is equipped with a hybrid leather and rubber strap, as well as a fabric strap, both complementing the blue dial.
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Time+Tide
With a Singer Paul Newman-inspired dial and chunky 1970s flavour, the new Nivada Grenchen Chronsport is a reissue of a never-issued watch.The post The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport turns a prototype into a production must-have appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A masterpiece of ingenuity and complexity, the GNS1 dazzled the watchmaking scene with its incredible free-moving train travelling around the two central counters on the dial like a mechanical caterpillar. Marking the indie brand’s debut in 2019, the GNS1 was ten years in the making and protected by two patents. Earlier this year, Genus introduced […]
SJX Watches
Having just launched the Sunlit Ivory edition for its Singapore retailer, Parmigiani now unveils the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for ladies. Though it retains the same dimensions and details, including the hand-guilloché dial, the new Tonda PF is available with a variety of diamond settings. Three versions are being launched, including a top-of-the-line model with lines of diamonds along the entire circumference of the watch and bracelet. The entry-level model, on the other hand, is two-tone rose gold and steel with diamond indices. The two-tone Tonda PF Automatic 36mm on the wrist Initial thoughts Although the Tonda PF 36 mm is one of many integrated-bracelet sports watch, it has a bit more of dress watch element to its design, especially in this 36 mm size. It’s more compact without sacrificing the sporty aspect of the model, making it quite versatile – the fact that it’s a convincing ladies’ sports watch in this new livery confirms that. Priced from CHF31,900 to CHF78,900 depending on the version, the new Tonda PF 36 mm is similarly to the competition. With integrated-bracelet sports watches being premium priced in general – reflecting an earlier fad – Tonda PF is a value proposition compared to alternatives when considering fit, finish, and materials. That said, I wish it was priced more competitively considering that Parmigiani is a newish brand without a historical lineage of sports watches that the “Holy Trinity” brands possess. A familiar design The t...
Time+Tide
A red carnelian stone dial, platinum case, and a reversed movement make for a curious Cartier.The post The why and how of the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Oris has unveiled their latest release in their ongoing “Change for the Better” campaign, a limited edition Aquis with a unique gradient dial. The Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV continues a tradition of partnership with the Reef Restoration Foundation, an Australian non-profit whose mission is to protect and restore the Great Barrier Reef. Watches in this series frequently feature evocative, nature inspired dial designs, and the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV is no exception. It also marks the first of these watches to be built on the new Aquis platform that was unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. The most prominent design detail here is certainly the dial, rendered in a gradient blue that is meant to mimic the turquoise and blue water of the Great Barrier Reef as seen from the air. The gradient effect also captures the natural refraction of the sun’s rays through water, as you’d see if you were diving. This phenomenon is unique in nature and something that only a handful of divers get to see at depth. Oris points out that the vertical gradient seen in this dial design is rare for the brand, as typically their gradient dials emanate from the center. But the verticality here reinforces the idea of a diver descending, and fits the watch thematically. Regular readers will remember that when Oris introduced a revamped Aquis earlier this year, they did so in a multitude of sizes and configurations. This particular limited edition is built ...
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SJX Watches
Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...
Hodinkee
With a new take on a classic dial style, Baltic brings back one of their big hits.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the new Duometre Quantieme Lunaire with a case and dial update, now available in stainless steel for the first time.
Monochrome
Longtime Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee had a dream of creating beautiful, high-end watches. To manifest his vision, he created the BCHH (Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie) brand and reached out to master watchmaker Svend Andersen of Andersen Genève to create the Celestial Voyager, a sophisticated world timer with a handcrafted enamel dial. Following the sold-out success […]
WatchAdvice
In this latest hands-on review, we look at Seiko’s Prospex Marinmaster, a reinterpretation of the brand’s first-ever 1965 diver’s watch. What We Love: The mix of brushed and polished surfaces on the case, bracelet and dial The dial pattern and colour are stunning in person. Open case back showing movement for the first time in a Seiko diver. What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is not suited for high-end Seiko divers. Open case back could show more of the movement. The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko first introduced a trio of Prospex Marinemaster models in late 2023. These timepieces merged two of the brand’s best heritage diver timepieces, the Marinemaster from 2000 and the classic first-ever Seiko divers watch, the 1965 62MAS. Combining two signature designs to make a brand new modern diver’s timepiece. The 2023 Prospex Marinemaster models showcase Seiko’s renowned craftsmanship and dedication to creating excellent dive watches. The collection uses a rugged design along with beautiful dial aesthetics to make it known that it can be used as both a tool watch and a daily wearer. The Prospex Marinemaster also uses the iconic Seiko watch designs from the above-mentioned references. Original 1965 62MAS Diver watch (left) vs modern re-interpretation Save The Ocean Limited Edition (right) Seiko is well known ...
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