Hodinkee
Introducing: Unimatic x Massena LAB Modello Quattro U4S‑T‑SPW With Meteorite Dial
The final chapter in UNIMATIC and Massena LAB's NASA Space Exploration trilogy.
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
What is a Chronograph Watch?
Chronograph watches are among the most popular styles of timepieces: iconic models like the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer Carrera, and Breitling Navitimer, for example, have become some of the most famous and collectible watches in the modern era and have contributed to the enduring appeal of the chronograph to generations of enthusiasts. If you're new to the watch game, however, you might be wondering not only what all the buzz is about but what these watches actually do that makes them so special. Read on for a comprehensive primer on chronograph watches, from their earliest ancestors to the most ambitious, avant-garde timekeeping technology available in chronographs today. Chronograph vs. Chronometer As I explore in depth in our guide to chronometers, one of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: Chronometer and Chronograph. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. The terms are not interchangeable but they are also not mutually exclusive: a watch equipped with chronograph functions can also be a chronometer if it has met a s...
Deployant
New: MB&F; LM101 EVO
Celebrating Maximilian Büsser & Friends (MB&F;)'s 20th Anniversary, the avangarde Swiss Haute Horlogerie Maison launches the iconic LM101 EVO.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Dennison Leans Into Peak ‘70s Glam and Design With New ALD Dual Time
Two quartz movements, two pairs of handsets and crowns on stone dials propel the design-driven brand's next piece.
Hodinkee
Introducing: H. Moser Endeavor Perpetual Calendar 'Smoked Salmon'
The brand comes with the lox stocked with a smoking dial on their newest release.
Deployant
New: Singer Reimagined Caballero - new proprietary movement
Singer reimagined releases its first proprietary movement: the Calibre-4 Solotempo in a new lineup which they call Caballero.
WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review
This year, IWC launched 41mm time-only versions of their Lake Tahoe and Mojave Desert Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN editions. In a slimmer case size, but still with the looks and feel of the bigger chronograph siblings, we had to test them out! What We Love The white ceramic on the Lake Tahoe is super fresh. The size and lighter weight make these very easy-to-wear watches Both rubber straps are comfortable, and each has nice design touches. What We Don’t The Mojave Desert can blend into your skin depending on your skin type The anti-reflective coating on the slightly domed crystal does make it hard to take a good photo! The luminescence on the hands and dial could be better and of a higher grade. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First Impressions When I first saw the white Lake Tahoe Pilot’s Watch 41 Top Gun earlier this year, I was keen to get both it and the Mojave Desert model to compare them properly. My initial impression? They’re essentially the same watch, just in different colourways, with the Mojave on a fabric-inlaid rubber strap and the Lake Tahoe on straight rubber. But sometimes, that slight aesthetic difference makes all the impact, as I was to find out! The Lake Tahoe feels fresh and bold. With its all-white case and strap against a black dial, it jumps off the wrist. The Mojave Desert, with its sand-coloured case, strap, and matching indices on a grey dial, is far more subdued. It blen...
Teddy Baldassarre
13 Best French Watch Brands (2026)
Switzerland is the modern world’s center of watchmaking, with Germany a distant but respectable second in Europe and Japan having long staked out its own spot as the premier watch producer in Asia. Great Britain and the U.S.A., while no longer world leaders, both have a proud history of watchmaking and maintain a small but steadily growing cottage industry in the modern era. But France has its own respectable horological heritage, centered around the commune of Besançon (below), which borders Switzerland’s own heartland of watchmaking, the Vallée de Joux. France was, in fact, a home for many historically significant watchmakers and clockmakers, including Julien Cordray, Jean-Antoine Lépine, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Abraham-Louis Breguet (actually born in the Prussian principality that would become Neuchâtel, Switzerland, but renowned as a Paris-based watchmaker to French royalty). The latter three all plied their trade in workshops on Place Dauphine at the western tip of Paris' Île de la Cité in the Seine. Watchmaking was a thriving industry in France for a century, up until KIng Louis XIV’s (below) revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which ushered in the religious persecution of Huguenot watchmakers, who fled to Switzerland to essentially establish that nation as a horological power. The French Revolution in the 18th Century, which halted the sales of luxury goods like watches in France, further eroded the country’s watch industry, and it has never ...
Monochrome
News - IWC Launches Curated: Restored & Certified Vintage Watches Available in Selected Boutiques
The watch market is in rapid evolution. There was a time when watch brands were selling new timepieces, leaving the second-hand and vintage markets in the hands of independent shops. However, times have changed. Consumer behaviours have evolved, with watch enthusiasts rightfully demanding more trust in the process of acquiring pre-owned and vintage models. For […]
Fratello
Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know
Geneva Watch Days returns for its sixth edition from September 4th to September 7th, 2025, continuing its rise as one of the key events on the horological calendar. Since its founding in 2020, the fair has embraced an open, decentralized approach. This came in the shadow of a disrupted Baselworld and an evolving SIHH. Instead […] Visit Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know to read the full article.
Fratello
Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches
Back in the ’90s, I got really into watches. I remember sitting across from a guy on the train who was wearing a Rolex Explorer - one without the white gold surrounds on its hour markers, so probably a reference 1016. I asked him about it, and he said he had owned it for a […] Visit Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches to read the full article.
Deployant
New & Reviewed: Earthen Watch Co., Summit Collection
What if we democratise ceramic watches. Enter the Earthen Watch Co.'s Summit Collection. A modern take on the Alpine Pilot Watch with ceramic case.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Submariner 16610 Vs. Omega Seamaster 2254.50
Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, after several battles between modern watches, we are going back in time. Daan and Thomas will pit two neo-vintage divers against each other. Daan will defend the Omega Seamaster 2254.50, while Thomas will champion the Rolex Submariner 16610. With slender cases, sapphire crystals, aluminum bezel […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Submariner 16610 Vs. Omega Seamaster 2254.50 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire Hands-On Review
The Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire isn’t just a watch. It’s a crystal-clear showcase of bold design and cutting-edge engineering. From the sapphire case to the architectural Unico movement inside, it is a timepiece that redefines transparency and demands attention on the wrist in a way few others can! What We Love Sapphire case is lightweight, transparent and beautifully executed, turninig the watch into a wearable sculpture The Unico 2 (HUB1280 movement) is one of the best chronograph movements in the modern watch market. Despite being 42mm, it wears surprisingly well thanks to the short lugs and rubber strap, and the wrist presence is unparralelled. What We Don’t Circular movement on a square case is visually noticeable in sapphire form, slightly breaking harmony. The transparency of the subdial makes the date harder to read compared to other models in the Square Bang Unico collection. Transparent rubber strap may show ageing or discolouration over time if exposed to strong sunlight. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9.0/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few watches turn heads quite like a sapphire-cased Hublot. With the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, Hublot takes transparency to new heights, transforming the bold square chronograph into a mechanical sculpture of light and precision. A square-shaped chronograph is rare in watchmaking, with the most iconic being the TAG Heuer Monaco. But as we know, with Hublot, they simply refu...
Deployant
New: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
Zenith has expanded its Chronomaster Sport collection with the release of the Meteorite edition, a stainless steel chronograph featuring a dial crafted from genuine extraterrestrial material. Previously available only in Japan, this model is now offered globally through Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers. Priced at $17,500, the watch combines Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 3600 movement with a unique Widmanstätten-patterned meteorite dial, aiming to balance technical precision with visual distinctiveness.
Hodinkee
Introducing: J.N. Shapiro's First Complication, A Monopusher Chronograph
Made for the Boston-based independent collectors' group Escapement, the new watch sets the stage for future releases from Shapiro.
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain In-Store Event
Join us for a special celebration of Blancpain, the world’s oldest watchmaking brand and a true pioneer in haute horlogerie. This exclusive event will highlight the breadth of Blancpain’s artistry, from its iconic tool watches to its most refined expressions of elegance. Discover the legendary Fifty Fathoms, the origin
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Cool Vintage Pieces from Omega, Gruen, Zodiac, and More!
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Waltham Diver Here’s a really sweet, robust vintage Waltham diver. The nice 35mm steel case looks unpolished with sharp chamfers on the lugs. The aluminum elapsed time diver’s bezel is in great shape, with only a tad of wear. The gloss black dial has a cool vertical textured stripe going between 9 o’clock and the date window at 3 o’clock. Large applied steel markers and broad steel hands give it a solid look. The manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a vintage Tropic rubber strap which is always a great touch. View auction here Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Next up is a sleek and stylish vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. This is a mid-1960’s Seamaster, with simple thin lugs and a thin bezel on the round stainless steel case. The case is unpolished with sharp edges. The Seamaster Hippocampus logo on the back is crisp, and there is a nicely engraved personalization that I just love. Classic Omega silver dial with stick markers and stick hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The crown is original and correct, and is signed with the Omega logo as it should be. This is a front-loading case, and there are no movement pictures...
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair Returns to NYC for Its 10th Anniversary Capstone Event
After a banner year with successful fairs in Dallas, San Francisco, and Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is returning home to New York City for the final stop of its 10th anniversary tour. From Friday, October 17th through Sunday, October 19th, we’ll once again take over Center415 in Midtown Manhattan for what promises to be our biggest and best Windup yet. Here are the critical details: Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary Last year, more than 10,000 enthusiasts came through the doors, and this year we’re expecting even more. Over 140 brands from around the world will be on hand, showcasing watches, gear, and everyday carry essentials. From fresh independents to established names, there will be something for every collector, enthusiast, and curious passerby to discover. We’re thrilled to welcome back Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola as returning Lead Sponsors-and equally excited to announce Bremont as the fifth Lead Sponsor, making their Windup debut. Other first timers to any Windup include MB & F’s M.A.D.Editions, Arken, Clemence, CIGA Design, and more. Beyond the show floor, Windup NYC is expanding its experiences like never before. The EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC returns, spotlighting innovative everyday carry alongside the watch brands. Miyota joins as our first...
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Daytona Panda Dial Ref. 126500 Review
The Rolex Daytona is a tricky watch to discuss these days. It’s difficult to separate the watch itself from its status as a barometer to the health of the entire second-hand market — a position that the watch itself surely never asked to be put into. Everyone has an opinion on the Daytona, and these days, those opinions seem to lean more negative due mostly to what it has come to represent. As such, it rarely gets a fair crack at an honest judgment. In fact, it’s a watch I generally shy away from discussing publicly. But I’ve always liked the Daytona, and I take pleasure in wearing mine in non-watch-enthusiast environments. That’s because, behind all the speculation and hype culture, there’s a genuinely good sports watch that’s almost never seen as such. After a year of owning the reference 126500 Rolex Daytona Panda dial introduced in 2023, and amidst a cooling second-hand market, I think it’s time to change that. Let’s start off by confronting the reality of this watch. The MSRP of the steel Daytona Reference 126500 in either black or white dial (dark or light, in Rolex parlance) is $16,000. The same watches trade for between $27,000 and $32,000 in the open market. This is a serious discrepancy, but it does seem to have stabilized from a high point in 2021. In fact, it seems to be slowly coming down, but not nearly to a price that the watch merits, if you ask me. At its MSRP, the Daytona is a legitimately great watch, but only just. At ~$30,000, this ...
Worn & Wound
Driving Design: European Cars and a Family Heirloom Seamaster
Ansel Iisaka is an industrial designer, watch lover, and European car enthusiast. Laid back with a thick beard, and often dressed in 1970s-esque attire, Iisaka doesn’t seem like your average mechanic, nor does he reveal much about his deep knowledge of watches. When asked about his propensity for both, he admits that growing up among the enthusiast cars that his father collected, drove hard, and cycled through may have caused him to feel “desensitized to rare or exotic cars.” Instead, he focused on what he calls, “really well-made, practical cars that I could use every day.” The first of these workhorse vehicles? A Volvo 240, one of the most iconic and reliable European cars ever built. Despite earning ASE certification in automotive service while still in high school, Iisaka chose to pursue the pen-and-paper side of his passion for mechanical artistry, and after completing a degree in industrial design, he found himself drafting concepts for several microbrand watch companies-an area he’d never considered before. While Iisaka states that he can’t reveal those projects due to contractual obligations, he has had a hand in designing field watches and vintage skin divers for a well-known microbrand. “I love all well-built mechanical things, especially those that were designed for longevity and repairability,” he explains. That appreciation for watches wasn’t immediate, though. It took a very special timepiece, handed down to him from his grandfather ...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025
Another Friday, another list! This time, we’re focusing on the brands that will be present at Geneva Watch Days 2025 next week. The event grows every year, and we have seen an increase in the number of participating brands. It’s a mixed bag of small and big ones that are active at every price level, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh”
With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward’s Sleek New Twelve 660 Is Just 6.6mm Thin
Discover the Christopher Ward Twelve 660, an ultra-thin 6.6mm sports watch featuring refined finishing and minimalist design
SJX Watches
Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...
Teddy Baldassarre
What is 5 ATM Water Resistance? Watches’ Depth Ratings Explained
Watches differ widely not only in their designs, materials, and functions but also in their ability to resist the detrimental effects of water and moisture. Some watch enthusiasts, especially those who wear their timepieces for diving, know exactly what they're looking for in terms of waterproofing, but many others might be unsure exactly how safe it is to wear their watch in the swimming pool or even to wash the car. What do watches' water-resistance ratings like 5 ATM or 10 ATM mean in the real world, and how exactly do industry terms like "bars" and "atmospheres" help you determine how waterproof your watch is? Here we address some commonly asked questions about water resistance in watches and break down what the most common depth ratings mean in practical terms. What was the first water-resistant watch? Since the invention of the wristwatch, watchmakers have been coming up with solutions to address an inconvenient reality: namely, that water and tiny mechanical parts, such as those inside a watch movement, simply do not mix. The technical challenge of making a portable timepiece that could withstand exposure to water became even more prominent in the mid-20th Century, with the rise of diving as a tactical and eventually also a recreational pursuit. The first innovator to seriously take up the gauntlet was Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, who developed the now-famous Oyster case in 1926. Its groundbreaking design combined a threaded, hermetically sealed caseback and a cro...
SJX Watches
Albishorn Counts Down to First Anniversary with Marinagraph
We’ve been following Albishorn since the brand launched just shy of a year ago, and have enjoyed the themes the brand has chosen to explore with its ‘imaginary vintage’ concept. After applying this formula to aviation and mountaineering, the Marinagraph returns to the brand’s patented regatta countdown function for another take on the yachting chronograph. Available in classic black or sunray brushed teal dial finishes, the Marinagraph adds an aluminium bezel insert to provide at-a-glance reading of the current state of the local tides. Each version is limited to 99 pieces, which will be produced in small batches over the next three years. Initial thoughts Albishorn made its debut with a regatta timer, and it’s nice to see another foray into this genre to mark the brand’s first anniversary. Though regatta timers are surely among the least useful complications, the Marinagraph adds a tide bezel that adds a simple way for coastal buyers to monitor their local tides. As a seaside resident myself, I find this feature quite charming and it seems on-brand for Albishorn. Two dial colours are on offer, each limited to 99 (non-numbered) pieces. I prefer the classic black dial, which feels more in line with the imaginary vintage theme, but the sunburst teal dial, dubbed Paraíba Racing, is arguably more on trend with the prevailing tastes of the moment. The Marinagraph retains the best elements of Albishorn’s previous chronographs, namely its distinctive bowl-shaped be...
Deployant
New & Reviewed: Bell&Ross; BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display
Bell & Ross takes its maiden flight with Rafale Solo Display. Introducing their latest collaboration piece, the BR-03 Chrono Rafale Solo Display.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator
Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...
Deployant
New: Vianney Halter x Massena Lab Old Soul
Introducing Old Soul, an interesting collaboration from Massena Lab with Vianney Halter, masterfully blending the legendary aesthetics of both.