Deployant
Review: Glashütte Original PanoGraph
In depth look at the Glashütte Original PanoGraph, a column wheel chronograph introduced in 2012, and still going strong and competitive today.
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Deployant
In depth look at the Glashütte Original PanoGraph, a column wheel chronograph introduced in 2012, and still going strong and competitive today.
Time+Tide
The bund strap needs to stay in the past.The post NOT ON MY WATCH: Please stop with the Bund strap, it is just terrible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier was a maker of fine jewelry long before it became a significant watchmaker in the 20th century when it unveiled the Santos-Dumont in 1904, which was the first wristwatch designed specifically for men. Today it continues to straddle both horology and watchmaking, having just unveiled the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont, and now, the Maillon de Cartier. French for “link”, maillon, is already used for a line of Panthère de Cartier jewelry that is characterized by, well, links. It is an apt description – the rings, bracelets, and necklaces are characterized by the use of tightly interlocking links as a central design motif. This very design language is carried over – with a twist, literally – to the new line of wristwatches, Maillon de Cartier. The new line is defined by a juxtaposition of curves and angular faces – essentially twisted links. The seamlessly integrated bracelet is composed of offset links that echo the shape of the bezel. The case, measuring 16 mm by 17 mm and standing 6.8 mm, is entirely mirror polished and framed by a hexagonal bezel that is integrated into the bracelet, accentuating the slimness of the watch while also emphasizing its sculptural quality. The dial is typical Cartier style: a silvered finish, blued steel sword hands, and stylized Roman numerals. Because of the small size of the dial, the Cartier “secret signature” is not incorporated in “VII” as is tradition. Maillon de Cartier is made up of six references i...
Revolution
Revolution explores the importance of the Silver Snoopy Award, and why Omega was bestowed this honour for its contributions to space flight.
Deployant
We were reminded by the Sinn EZM 12, a watch designed for use in public health environments and very suitable for front liners as it is easy to disinfect.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green relishes discovering an exquisite watch in peace and quiet with plenty of time; it's a luxury he appreciates. All the more so in a quiet comfortable salon on the first floor of the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique at Place Vendôme, Paris, with a Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Blue.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The mini watchfast challenge is over, and Kaz & Mike reflect on their learnings in this week’s episode. Plus, there’s a ton of new stuff on the site - including a Nodus review and a few press releases you won’t want to miss.
Deployant
We bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGW264, inspired by the white birch trees of Shizukuishi.
SJX Watches
French watchmaker Cyril Brivet-Naudot made his debut two years ago with the Eccentricity, a time-only watch that’s fascinating and impressive on many fronts. Not only is it almost entirely made by hand, the Eccentricity is intriguing in design and mechanics – from the overall architecture to details like the key-winding mechanism and regulator-style time display with a twist, and above all, the proprietary escapement. Just 29 years old, Mr Brivet-Naudot began working on the Eccentricity after graduating from the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Switzerland’s best technical universities. Prior to that, he earned a diploma in watchmaking from the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France that borders Switzerland. The school has gained a reputation for producing imaginative watchmakers, many pursuing a similar style that’s inspired by 19th century pocket watch movements, including Theo Auffret, a peer of Mr Brivet-Naudot. The result of three years of development, the Eccentricity is very much in the same vein as the watches produced by Mr Brivet-Naudot’s fellow graduates. It artfully combines a 19th century aesthetic sensibility with exotic features, including a novel, free-eccentric escapement, for which the watch was named. And it is built by hand: with the exception of the mainspring, hairspring, jewels and crystals, every component of the watch was made from scratch by Mr Brivet-Naudot, without the aid of CNC machine...
Quill & Pad
Ikepod has recently launched its second Kickstarter campaign with a new collection, the Megapod. Focusing on a three-hand dial with modern minimalistic details, the Megapod feels very much the descendent of the original Megapode collection and definitely fulfills the requirements for a solid, high-quality mechanical watch featuring incredible design at an affordable price.
Time+Tide
A crisis can often prove the catalyst for change. Amid the chaos, we’re forced to rethink how we do things - often with positive results. The First World War, for example, had a radical impact in redefining civil liberties, race relations and women’s rights. It’s way too early to untangle the full impact of the coronavirus … ContinuedThe post As of today, you can buy Patek Philippe online. Will COVID-19 force more brands into e-commerce? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The unending pursuit by watch companies of the most commercially successful blue dial watch with integrated steel bracelet has left a lot of empty space for other expressions of a blue dial wristwatch. With their latest expression of the Big Date, Mido have grasped this empty space with both hands, producing a watch that has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The perfect date night, Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition is one of the most important watches released in the last few decades.The post Long read: Omega De Ville Co-Axial Escapement Limited Edition, a piece of watchmaking history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Monochrome founder's thoughts on researching, finding, and buying a watch.
Revolution
Practicing social distancing, Wei Koh speaks with Max Büsser of MB&F; via Zoom video chat about the recently announced HM10 “Bulldog” and much more.
Revolution
The head of the Zeitwerk manufacturing division, Robert Hoffmann, explain a few things you should know about the new Zeitwerk Date and Zeitwerk.
SJX Watches
Rumours were percolating for some time that Audemars Piguet was going to unveil a vintage-inspired watch to mark the opening of its recently-finished, hairspring-shaped museum. But when the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm was revealed, it was still surprising. In the metal, the “remastered” watch is appealing; it looks good and the execution is impressively high quality in all aspects. The dial in particularly is sharply done, with even the tiniest details done right. And the movement inside is modern – and looks modern – but is impeccably constructed. But at the same time, the watch is a bit thick, and also expensive. The [Re]master01 in steel and 18k pink gold The ref. 1533 As with many reissued or “remastered” timepieces, the inspiration for the [Re]master01 is a well-known and well-documented watch: the ref. 1533, a chronograph wristwatch produced in the 1940s. It was 36.5 mm in diameter, extra-large for the period, and a three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers typical then. Only nine of them were made, three with two-tone, steel-and-gold cases. The archive photograph of the ref. 1533. Photo – Audemars Piguet Two examples of the steel-and-gold ref. 1533 were sold in recent years at Phillips auctioneers, both setting price records for the most expensive vintage AP chronograph sold at auction. The first sold for 305,000 Swiss francs in 2015 – going to the Audemars Piguet Museum – and the second, 384,500 franc...
SJX Watches
Last month IWC premiered a limited edition that has all the qualities of a hit: a bestselling classic in an exotic material, made in a very small run – and also incorporating nerdy, collector-oriented details. Instead, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon was debuted quietly, delivered to clients, and pretty much went unnoticed around the world. The first ever Big Pilot with a carbon fibre composite case, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a black dial with grey hands and markings, replicating the colour of the composite case. It’s livened up by red accents on the power reserve indicator and seconds hand (and also the date disc, for a small number of special watches, more on that below). The famous “fish” More unusually, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a “fish” crown – the oversized, onion-shaped winding crown has a stylised fish logo on its top. Despite being a seemingly trivial detail, the “fish” crown is dear to IWC enthusiasts, being a memorable element from IWC’s 20th century history – one many collectors regard as a golden age. From the 1950s until the mid-2000s, most water-resistant IWC watches featured a “fish” crown. The very first generation of the Big Pilot, the ref. 5002 introduced in 2002, featured a “fish” crown. Not long after, the “fish” crown was dispensed with in favour of a crown featuring the IWC “Probus Scafusia” emblem. This happened sometime in 2006, first with a “transitional” ref. 5002 that was equi...
SJX Watches
Following the faithful and well-received Navitimer 806 and AVI Ref. 765 1953 re-editions – both very much instruments for pilots back in the day – Breitling has now recreated a distinctly different watch from the archives – the Top Time “Zorro”. And while the new Top Time takes its cues from the past, it will be sold entirely online via Breitling’s website, at least initially. Produced from the 1960s to the 1970s, the Top Time was Breitling’s simpler and more affordable line of chronographs designed to appeal to younger buyers – which is also the rationale behind the new remake. Unlike the Chronomat or Navitimer, which were mostly no-nonsense tools equipped with slide-rule bezels for pilots to do in-flight navigation, the Top Time did away with the slide-rule bezel and relied on a more generic style emblematic of the era. The Top Time limited edition Despite being an entry-level mode, the original Top Time had a starring appearance on the big screen: a Top Time ref. 2002, with a “reverse panda” dial and a fictional Geiger counter, was worn by Sean Connery in Thunderball. The very watch worn in the movie sold for £103,875 at Christie’s in 2013, not long after surfacing at a car boot sale where it was purchased for £25. While the “panda” or “reverse panda” variants are arguably the iconic versions of the Top Time, the new remake is modelled on the more unusual Top Time ref. 2003 equipped with a gold-plated case and “Zorro” dial (or the r...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Hamilton PSR is a faithful reimagining of the original Hamilton Pulsar P2 2900 LED watch. The original release of the P1 in 1970 was quite a big event. While LED technology had been developed and used by scientists for decades prior, it was an expensive technology to produce, particularly for a consumer product.
Time+Tide
Have you ever bought a pre-owned watch? Do you know exactly where it came from? It’s worth asking yourself that question because luxury watches are wildly attractive to thieves. Not only do they command a strong resale value, but the fact that watches are small enough to slip into a pocket makes them easy to … ContinuedThe post Strip clubs, the Pink Panther & Rafa Nadal – 5 of the most notorious watch robberies of the last decade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
F.P. Journe extends the Automatique Lune with the new Havana: with enlarged big date and bigger moonphase on a warm, tobacco coloured dial. Details within.
Time+Tide
Unimatic watches such as the Modello Uno Ref. U1-ML6 have been making waves in the watch world. But who is Unimatic? Let's find out.The post Everything you need to know about Unimatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A visit to Zenith in Le Locle, and the most famous attic in Switzerland.
Revolution
Ross Povey takes a look at the first results to be released during the COVID-19 shut down. And it’s not as depressed as you might expect.
Revolution
Greubel Forsey’s masterwork QP now comes in rich chocolate and red gold.
The brand's latest collection offers new interpretations on their most classic watches.
SJX Watches
In 2015, an Audemars Piguet ref. 1533 sold for 305,000 Swiss francs, setting the record for a vintage AP chronograph at auction – which was then topped two years ago by another example of the same reference that sold for 384,500 Swiss francs. An extra-large wristwatch with an unusual three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers common at the time, the ref. 1533 was produced in the 1940s. Only nine were made, and three of the nine had two-tone, steel-and-gold cases, making them the rarest of variants. Unsurprisingly, both of the record-setting ref. 1533s were two-tone. And now the two-tone ref. 1533 has now been “remastered” as the modern-sounding but appealingly vintage [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm, a limited edition of 500 watches to coincide with the new, spiral-shaped Audemars Piguet museum that’s scheduled to open around middle of the year. Vintage details Looking very much like the ref. 1533, the [Re]master01 recreates all of the key elements of the original. Characterised by large, teardrop lugs, the case is steel with its bezel, crown, and pushers in 18k pink gold. It’s 40 mm to accommodate the large, automatic cal. 4409 inside, but because the original was already 36.5 mm – enormous in the 1940s – the increased diameter still maintains the retro style. To match the gold accents, the dial has a gilt finish, which was unique amongst the vintage original – just one of the three two-tone ref. 1533s had a yellow gold-tone dia...
Quill & Pad
New Zealand native Steve Smith has partnered with Brian Sheth to create a new operation: Smith & Sheth Cru. Ken Gargett believes this young winery co-founded by Smith, a highly decorated and experienced winemaker, could well take its place among the world’s exciting emerging wineries.
SJX Watches
MB&F; has always been about pushing the boundaries of aesthetic and conceptual creativity in watchmaking, lassoing in everything from pop culture to science fiction to build its Horological Machines. Reminiscent of the HM3 Frog and HM9 Flow, the HM10 Bulldog is the tenth watch in the series and another intergalactic timekeeper reassembling a robotic animal. While MB&F; has historically been all about less-than-friendly animals, like a cyclops-chicken, luminous jellyfish, or giant spider, the HM10 is modelled on a domestic favourite (and perhaps also takes inspiration from the LM1). The design language of the HM10 is a familiar one as it borrows liberally from MB&F;’s past machines. Bulging eyes in the form of rotating displays take their cues from the HM3, while the suspended balance wheel under a high domed crystal is also found in the Legacy Machine series, and finally the mobile jaw that’s also a power reserve display brings to mind the vertical indicator on the LM1. An elaborate body It’s a complex-looking watch, so an explanation is in order. Available in either titanium, or red gold with titanium accents, the HM10 has a flat, elongated body with a protruding pair of collets for the crowns, as well as two domed sapphire crystals on the front and back to accommodate the time display and power reserve indicator respectively. At 54 mm by 45 mm, the HM10 does have a large presence – which is usually the point of a Horological Machine – but the overall shape, pa...
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