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Results for Co-Axial vs Swiss Lever Escapement

6,187 articles · 2,614 videos found · page 119 of 294

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby Hodinkee
Longines has been Yesterday

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby

Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...

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SJX Podcast: Rexhep Rexhepi’s Vision SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi s Vision 4 days ago

SJX Podcast: Rexhep Rexhepi’s Vision

For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction. He also discusses the RRCHF’s in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure Fratello
Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure May 8, 2026

Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure

Collaborations in the watch world are nothing new. Usually, we see a watch brand team up with some other company, often resulting in a fairly gimmicky co-branding exercise. That approach doesn’t typically float our boat, to put it mildly. Today, we have something a bit different. What happens when two seemingly incompatible watch companies join […] Visit Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure to read the full article.

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer Hodinkee
Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf May 6, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.  Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements. Oris CEO Rolf Studer. Photo courtesy Oris.  Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand. Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case f...

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SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One SJX Watches
Voutilainen May 1, 2026

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement.  Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...

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Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” SJX Watches
Tudor s F1 Season Begins Apr 30, 2026

Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Continuing with a practice that began last year, Tudor has announced a limited edition as this year’s Formula 1 season kicks off. As with last year’s edition, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” is modelled on the livery of the racing car of Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB). It’s otherwise identical to last year’s model, which means it is lightweight, well priced, and equipped with the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The Carbon 26 is essentially last year’s watch with a new dial, but I like the new yellow and white livery than last year’s white and blue. The colours are subjective, but the value proposition of the watch remains objectively excellent (though the price has risen largely due to the strength of the Swiss franc). The Carbon 26 is still competitively priced next to its rivals. As an aside, I hope Tudor will eventually incorporate more design elements from its historical motor racing chronographs, like the Monte Carlo, into its modern-day F1 editions like the Carbon 26. The Carbon 26 is clearly a Black Bay – the “snowflake” hands are a giveaway – but the Black Bay is a dive watch rather than one for the road. Carbon inside and out The Carbon 26 gets its name from the carbon fibre composite case and bezel, which have a patterned surface typical of the material. The type of composite employed here is more subtle appearance-wise compared to other composites used in watchmaking, so at a distance the case appears a flat black. Thoug...

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Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Apr 28, 2026

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum

H. Moser & Cie. is a brand that I have often come back to. It fascinates me, but I have yet to be lucky enough to handle one of its watches in the metal. This brand, like IWC, is connected to the Swiss town of Schaffhausen. There’s something in the air there. I visited just […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Apr 16, 2026

Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]

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A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement Fratello
Hermes Apr 14, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement

This year, Hermès is celebrating the fifth birthday of its H08. It already feels like the maison’s sporty watch, with its characteristic geometric shape, has become a real staple in the collection. But there’s more reason to celebrate, as it’s also been 20 years since Hermès acquired a 25% stake in the Swiss high-end movement […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement to read the full article.

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First Look – Pumping Up Horology with the Surprising H. Moser & Cie. x Reebok Streamliner Pump Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie x Reebok Apr 14, 2026

First Look – Pumping Up Horology with the Surprising H. Moser & Cie. x Reebok Streamliner Pump

H. Moser & Cie. is one of the few Swiss brands that knows how to have fun. Unlike the solemnity and pomp of most top-tier Swiss watch brands, Moser brings a refreshing playfulness to the table without compromising its impeccable watchmaking credentials. In an industry where partnerships are predictable, Moser’s latest collaboration with sneaker titan […]

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Introducing – The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1 Monochrome
Hautlence Kubera Series 1 Hautlence Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1

Hautlence, the contemporary, independent Swiss watchmaking brand, has made its mark with unconventional time displays. Founded in Neuchâtel in 2004, it quickly stood out for turning time into a more theatrical experience, with the HL01 setting the tone through jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Returning to Watches & Wonders this year, Hautlence unveils a brand […]

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Introducing – The Arnold & Son UltraThin Tourbillon Onyx Edition Monochrome
Bulgari s 1.95mm Octo Finissimo Apr 10, 2026

Introducing – The Arnold & Son UltraThin Tourbillon Onyx Edition

Arnold & Son’s UTTE – Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement – debuted at Baselworld 2013, powered by the ultra-thin 2.97mm hand-wound calibre A&S;8200. Recognised as the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch, the title was stolen from Arnold & Son just one year later with Bulgari’s 1.95mm Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Still remarkably thin, Arnold & Son’s Ultrathin Tourbillon […]

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Introducing – The Updated Hamilton Khaki Field King Collection Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field King Collection Apr 9, 2026

Introducing – The Updated Hamilton Khaki Field King Collection

Hamilton is an American-born Swiss watch brand whose Khaki Field collection draws on its military heritage, featuring a clean, highly legible field watch design inspired by watches made for soldiers and outdoor use. Building on Hamilton’s transition from military supplier to civilian watchmaker, the new Khaki Field King is a slightly more refined, versatile model […]

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Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way Fratello
Universal Genève Apr 8, 2026

Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way

Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The […] Visit Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way to read the full article.

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Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar Bonniksen Apr 7, 2026

Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel

Bonniksen makes its debut with the aptly named Le Carrousel, a 30-second carrousel wristwatch that will launch under the secondary banner of Naissance d’une Montre 4, which means it will be fully handmade. Le Carrousel’s completion date has not been announced, but good things take time, especially when made without the assistance of automated machinery. Left to right: Bonniksen co-founder and CEO Jason Chevrolat, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydeggar, Bonniksen co-founder Maximin Chapuis, and David Bernard from the Time Æon Foundation. Initial thoughts It’s shaping up to be a big year for independent watchmaking, with a number of new and old names making their debuts. Bonniksen is among the latter, and looks to be a good-faith effort to do justice to the legacy of the inventor of the carrousel. While the rebirth of an old name is a familiar (if not tiresome) formula, one can’t help but appreciate the care with which the name of Bonniken makes its return. For one thing, the movement, which still exists only in sketches and models, is a true carrousel, built to co-founder Maximin Chapuis’ design after 5,500 hours of technical research. In other words, it’s not just an old name attached to an off-the-shelf calibre. The fact that it will debut as a Montre 4 in the Naissance d’une Montre project is another reason to take the effort seriously. If that weren’t enough, the brand has apparently been given the blessing of Bonniksen’s living descendants, which helps t...

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