Hodinkee
In-Depth: What Will We See From Cartier in 2024? If We’re Lucky, A Return to The Swinging Sixties
Cartier London was home to some of the most iconic shapes in watchmaking, but there's one we haven't seen in a while.
Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking
5,029 articles · 36 videos found · page 119 of 169
Hodinkee
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Lorca Model No.1 GMT, a Compact GMT Watch with Retro Flair
Lorca is a new microbrand with an inaugural piece offering GMT functionality, which is always nice to welcome to the market. Its Canadian founder (with both Swiss and Canadian roots) now resides in New York, but the watch has a positively European style and Swiss-made designation. The movement is also a step above your typical […]
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Channeling Your Inner Gordon Gekko With Six Yellow Gold Watches
Trends come and go, and we see the same happening in the watchmaking industry. Retro is still very much hot, so it’s only natural multiple brands dive into their archives and see what can be brought back to life one way or another. Other brands might rather take a prised baby into new directions by […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon and his Two-Tone Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Orion
Koen Simon is a 28-year-old watch collector from The Netherlands. A regular reader of Quill & Pad, he is a fan of high-end watchmaking. He recently sent us this story about how and why he acquired his rare two-tone Orion timepiece by Christiaan van der Klaauw, which we are pleased to share here.
Monochrome
Introducing - A Small Second Version and New Colours for the Affordable Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic
Unveiled in 2022 and already a great success worldwide for the brand, the Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic NJ015 was the direct descendant of another important collection for the Japanese watchmaker, the NH299 series. But above all, the Tsuyosa collection offered the ability for many watch enthusiasts to access the highly desirable sporty-chic integrated style of high-end […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Clever and Compelling Foliot Scubanaut 200 Launching on Kickstarter
Discovering new brands is always a lot of fun, especially when the result is quite surprising and even impressive. Such is the case with one of our latest discoveries, coming straight from the Big Apple. Launching on Kickstarter today, upstart watchmaking company Foliot Watches is determined to make some waves with its second and latest […]
Worn & Wound
The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain
Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...
Monochrome
First Look - The Maison Alcée Percée, A Fantastic Build-It-Yourself Mechanical Table Clock
In today’s day and age, it’s easy to forget that the wrist-worn timekeeping devices we love so much come from a long history of clockmaking. After all, clockmaking precedes watchmaking by several centuries, as the first mechanical clocks date back to the 13th century. But even before that, people were fascinated by the passing of […]
Deployant
New: Louis Erard x Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur
Louis Erard collaborates with Swiss artist Oliver Mosset on a curious and interesting interpretation of their Le Regulateur.
Worn & Wound
Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio
This month I had the pleasure of speaking with Nathan Bobinchak, Head of Watchmaking for the independent brand Oak & Oscar. Nathan is a former journalist and TV news writer turned watchmaker, with an obsession for finding the best way to experience sound through home audio setups. Watches “I had my midlife crisis at 26.” Nathan delivers a dry joke as he recounts his career shift from local TV news, to his decision to go to watchmaking school. Specifically, Nathan attended The Litiz Watch Technicum, a watchmaking school outside Lancaster, PA that was founded in 2001 by Rolex. After graduating from Litiz, Nathan worked for a shop in Connecticut, eventually moving to Chicago at the beginning of 2020 and landing the job at Oak & Oscar. “I first got into Oak & Oscar with the Jackson. The Jackson is a very cool chronograph with the Eterna 3916 movement in it. It’s a very neat, super complicated, pretty movement. It has a column wheel and flyback chrono…just very cool.” Nathan explained to me that in modern watchmaking you do a lot of the same things, but said he was fortunately certified to work on watches like the Rolex Daytona, as he has a lot of fun servicing chronographs. “I can go on all day about the art of lubricating a chronograph. That is some nerdy stuff. It’s like paint drying.” I was interested, so I asked him to expound. “The only thing that makes watches hard to work on is the user. We knock them, move them around, a movement will run grea...
SJX Watches
Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli
This year is the 40th anniversary of Hayao Miyazaki’s Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, a 1984 Japanese anime film portraying the titular heroine’s valiant adventures in a post-apocalyptic world. To mark the occasion, anime studio Studio Ghibli and Seiko created the Presage Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind SPB437, a limited edition with an unusual combination of finishes, namely a blue enamel dial and a brushed steel case. Initial thoughts Seiko has long incorporated Japanese pop culture into its timepieces, drawing inspiration from iconic franchises such as Gundam and the Street Fighter video game. While the new Presage isn’t the first collaboration between the watch brand and Studio Ghibli, the Nausicaä edition is arguably amongst the best due to its classical, almost minimalist design. Even though it is a cartoon-inspired watch, the Nausicaä edition has a restrained aesthetic with stylish details. Particularly notable is the blue enamel dial featuring the emblem of the Princess Nausicaä and elongated indices. The simplicity of the dial design, combined with a steel case featuring an unusual aged finish completes the aesthetic that sets it apart from the typical Presage model. Its clean styling stands out even compared to the earlier Presage Castle in the Sky from 2021. The Nausicaä edition is priced at US$1,600, a modest increase over the previous Studio Ghibli model but still affordable. As is often the case with affordable Seiko limited editions, the m...
Fratello
Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE
I wrote an article on the best Seiko watches under €500 a few weeks ago. The Japanese brand used to rule the “affordable watch” category, especially with diving watches. But with Seiko slowly moving upmarket, that territory is now open for other brands to conquer. An obvious pick is Citizen. The fellow Japanese brand offers […] Visit Hands-On: The Brilliant And Affordable Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NY0120-01EE And NY0129-58LE to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Raúl Pagès wins the first-ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
Raúl Pagès' deceptively simple RP1 - Régulateur à détente wins the inaugural edition of this prestigious watchmaking prize. The post Raúl Pagès wins the first-ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Formex × Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer
If you follow my writing, you know that I am a bit of a Formex admirer. The Swiss brand offers specifications and value for money that are second to none. So when Formex teams up with a watch medium like Worn & Wound to create something special for enthusiasts, I pay attention. I was, however, […] Visit Introducing: The Formex × Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Hermès Artistically Interprets the Seasons with the Slim d’Hermès Le Sacre des Saisons
Regarded as one of the most refined luxury retailers, Hermès is renowned for its exquisite artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair. The Maison’s unique style, safeguarded by current creative director Philippe Delhotal, is often transversal, taking design cues from one product line and incorporating them into another. Recently, Hermès watchmaking sector has turned to the […]
Monochrome
News - Raúl Pagès Wins the 2024 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
Introduced last year as a project, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives has to be seen as one of the most interesting recent initiatives in the field of independent and high-end watchmaking. Even though backed up by the world’s largest luxury conglomerates, the LV Watch Prize aims to become a biennial prize that […]
Monochrome
Interview - Discovering The Work Of Rune Bakkendorff, A Young And Upcoming Danish Watchmaker
In our exploratory trip around the world to uncover some of the most interesting independent watchmaking stories, we make a stop in Denmark this time around. The work of Rune Bakkendorff, a young and upcoming watchmaker from Denmark has recently been brought to our attention through our friends of The Limited Edition. Curious to learn […]
Quill & Pad
Decoding Omega References: 14 Magic Digits and Codification Tables Revealed - Reprise
Many watch enthusiasts dream of owning at least one timepiece by Omega. And maybe even a second or a third. The Swiss brand definitely ranks among the most popular watch firms. To give you an idea of the overwhelming variety in the current Omega watch world, Sabine Zwettler has put together a guideline for reference numbers.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Starry Dial of the Ace Jewelers x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne
It might sound surprising, but the Dutch watchmaking scene is much more active than many imagine. One of the most prominent and enduring names in the Netherlands is, without a doubt, Christiaan van der Klaauw. Specialised in astronomical timepieces – think about the Planetarium – CdvK has recently been acquired by Pim Koeslag (ex-Frederique Constant) […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]
Time+Tide
A futuristic wolf of a watch: the modern and angular Namica Okami
This Japanese microbrand's latest piece would be right at home in Neo Tokyo.The post A futuristic wolf of a watch: the modern and angular Namica Okami appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on
The culture of watchmaking is one that equally respects tradition and ingenuity, as the past can be respected while breaking boundaries and inventing new techniques. But, sometimes inventiveness doesn’t always work out. You can’t make an omelette without breaking a few eggs, so let’s rummage through the discarded shells and see some watch technologies that … ContinuedThe post Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Ulysse Nardin Freak - The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I
Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...
Monochrome
First Look - The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium
If Speake Marin has recently made waves with its sport-chic Ripples line, its Piccadilly case remains a brand signature Inherently Speake Marin. Watches featuring the Piccadilly case embody British elegance, controlled eccentricity, and classic Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The One & Two collection underwent a tasteful revamping in 2017 in collaboration with watch designer Eric Giroud. […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bausele x Seconde/Seconde is all about Australian Clichés
While now many of our readers must be familiar with Romaric André, founder of seconde/seconde, and the man behind dozens of collaboration watches, Bausele remains a slightly more niche brand in the watchmaking field. Founded in 2011 and first specialized in military-issued watches, the brand is one of the few to be located in Australia… […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ikepod Megapod with a One-Minute Hourglass
Ikepod is a preeminent figure in unconventional and often contentious design-focused watchmaking icons. Revered by collectors and enthusiasts alike, the brand, founded in 1994 by designer Marc Newson and entrepreneur Oliver Ike, has left an indelible mark on the watchmaking scene. Despite its global success, Ikepod faced a challenging period, with production coming to a […]
Revolution
Unboxing Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘German Silver’
Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossmann. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc known as maillechort, or German Silver in English. German Silver is remarkable in that […]
Worn & Wound
Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop
Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone retro-inspired hit. Here is your Chronicle highlighting the Seiko Alpinist GMTs, models SPB377 and SPB379, and the Seiko SPRK17. As always, we invite you to join our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone r...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s Olivier Mosset Le Regulateur is Ultra Minimalist
Louis Erard, a brand well-known for its affordable collaborations with notable figures across different industries, has just dropped a wristwatch designed by a Swiss contemporary artist known for his abstract style. A variant of the brand’s classic regulator model, Le Regulateur Louis Erard x Oliver Mosset tells the time, but in an extremely minimalist, almost redacted manner, with just three hands rotating on a dial that evokes outer space. Initial Thoughts The design is clearly the work of an abstract artist; time-telling instrument it is not. In fact, it is not especially recognisable as a watch, particularly for someone unfamiliar with a regulator-style dial. The striking design will be polarising, particularly since it comes at the expense of function. It is, however, appealing in its own peculiar way and more broadly reflects the wide-ranging aesthetic adopted by Louis Erard thanks to Manuel Emch, now the brand’s creative chief and himself a collector of contemporary art. The only downside of the watch is the chunky case, which is shared by all Le Regulateur models. It’s thicker and bulkier than such a minimalist watch should be, but necessarily so due to the no-frills movement inside. But that also means the Oliver Mosset regulator is an affordable CHF3,750, as is typical for the brand. It’s a value proposition for a little bit of contemporary on the wrist. Not a watch That the watch was conceived as an artwork, rather than a timepiece is indicated by the l...
Revolution
Up Close With Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’
Live now – Grail Watch 9.1: the Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’. Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossman. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of […]