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The Collector’s Crossroads: The need to defend my watch choices online Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 5, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: The need to defend my watch choices online

I’m going to start this article with a story I want to share with you all. For those who didn’t know, in mid October, I put a deposit down on my first Grand Seiko, the SBGM247. It’s a watch from one of my favourite brands that has everything I ever wanted in a GMT. Interesting … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: The need to defend my watch choices online appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Andrew hits New York to meet the team, and be tortured by Quentin Tarantino’s watch (what is it!) Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Andrew hits New York to meet the team, and be tortured by Quentin Tarantino’s watch (what is it!)

If you run a digital media business, and it’s still in operation after the pandemic, then chances are you’ve hired someone over Zoom. Time+Tide is well and truly in that club. We’ve hired several that way. But our star remote hire is a born and bred New Yorker you know very well. And I know … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Andrew hits New York to meet the team, and be tortured by Quentin Tarantino’s watch (what is it!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s tourbillon Nov 3, 2021

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”

The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...

OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again Time+Tide
Nov 1, 2021

OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again

So a little while ago, I was talking to my hypnotist (long story) when he revealed that he had an intriguing side hustle. Away from his day job, when he wasn’t helping people to quit smoking or overcome their fear of flying, he’d created the biggest polyamory dating app in the world. Think of it, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity Quill & Pad
Oct 31, 2021

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity

In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.

Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Oct 31, 2021

Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021

The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Oct 30, 2021

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001

Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster Time+Tide
Cartier Roadster Editor’s Note We Oct 30, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster

Editor’s Note: We recently presented our readers with the opportunity to submit their very own written “Every Watch Tells a Story” where they reflect on a timepiece that is very special to them and the narrative behind it. Here is Nelli’s (@tiffanyticks) tale of how she arrived at the Cartier Roadster and how gender-expectations confounded others … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Collector’s Crossroads: Does the size of a watch collection really matter? Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2021

The Collector’s Crossroads: Does the size of a watch collection really matter?

I know. I know. You’ve probably read dozens of articles about sizes when it comes to watches. Shoot, we wrote a pretty good one right here. Well, today, that’s not on the agenda. My question actually has to do with the size of a collection. How for years, I’ve struggled to come up with an answer … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Does the size of a watch collection really matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 1589 Editor’s Oct 28, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2021

OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch

When buying a watch, most people think about issues such as accuracy, water resistance or power reserve – but for me, it’s the typography that matters most. Before I go further, let’s start with a mini lesson: the words font and typeface are not synonymous. A typeface is a family of fonts (ie Times New Roman, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2021

Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away… sorry, that’s the Star Wars nerd in me. If you search your feelings and feel the midichlorians around you, well, perhaps, you are looking for something Star Wars-related for your watch collection. Recently Star Wars and Kross Studio released a limited edition Death Star-inspired tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” SJX Watches
Breguet hands were historically found Oct 15, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club”

A collectors’ club based in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club recently announced the latest special edition for its members. Based on the largest version of the Cartier wristwatch launched last year, the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” is a distinctive new take on the classic design. Featuring a salmon dial inspired by the Santos-Dumont 90th Anniversary limited edition of 1994, the Dubai Watch Club version features Eastern Arabic hour numerals as is tradition for special editions made for the region. Initial thoughts A large but elegant watch, the Santos-Dumont XL is appealing in its original form, albeit looking very much like a classical Cartier. The Dubai Watch Club edition injects novelty into the design without doing too much. In fact, the only changes to the watch are the dial colour and hands, although Breguet hands were historically found on many Cartier models. But the best feature of the dial is the colour of the numerals, which are rendered in a dark red that was meant to mimic Cartier’s house colour. Notably, red numerals were traditionally found only on platinum watches, while the Dubai Watch Club edition is steel. The case material means the special edition is an easily affordable US$7,500, but that’s a moot point as the watch is available only to members of Dubai Watch Club. Dubai style Founded by local collector Adel Al Rahmani, Dubai Watch Club has some 120 members in its ranks. The club has commissioned a handful of speci...

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection SJX Watches
Casio n Swatch constructed Oct 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection

Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. Time+Tide
Oct 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co.

What constitutes the ultimate tool watch for you? Should the case be made of durable materials? Do you want a movement that’s robust, reliable and easy to service? Should the size be small enough so it’s not prone to daily encounters with a door jam? It’s these type of questions that Tool Watch Co. (I … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue Time+Tide
Rolex Hulk but Oct 10, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue

There is huge power in community, even if you don’t always realise it. And there’s nothing like a serendipitous meeting to remind you of the little threads of connection all around you that build that community. It was one such chance meeting that Sap experienced while wearing his Deep Blue watch that was custom-made for … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: I own a Rolex Hulk, but this is why I enjoy indies like Deep Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows Oct 7, 2021

The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king

For years, Hamilton has held the crown as the field watch king. The simple, time-tested aesthetic of the watches within their Khaki Field collection represents the gold standard of what a field watch should be. Furthermore, Hamilton doesn’t simply rest on its laurels, as they continuously expand the collection, presenting variations on the theme through … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is a quirky flex that impresses collectors Time+Tide
Raketa Oct 7, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is a quirky flex that impresses collectors

“Is that what I think it is?” asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and watch designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. “Yep,” I replied. “It’s an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year.” “Nice, man. I’ve got one of those too,” he said. I had already … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is a quirky flex that impresses collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.