Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Announces the Big Crown Calibre 473
To kick off 2023, Oris officially revealed the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473-a watch showcasing the latest evolution of their in-house Caliber 400.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473
Oris debut new in-house manually wound calibre 473 in the new Oris Big Crown Calibre 473. Despite being manually wound, it is 0.5mm THICKER than the previous automatic model due to new power reserve indicator on the movement. The release also heralds Oris’ first-ever butterfly clasp with fine adjustment mechanism. Introducing: The Oris Big Crown … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches
TAG Heuer have established themselves as the go-to brand for luxury smartwatches with each subsequent edition of the TAG Heuer Connected improving both form and function. When considering modern technology, it’s impossible to have a conversation about recent advancements without broaching the subject of NFTs and cryptocurrency. NFTs have seeped into seemingly every walk of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots)
A strong selling point for Oris watches are their value-driven pricing. The majority of their watches are priced under $4,000 USD, their Sellita-driven pieces the most approachable (closer to $2,000 USD) and their in-house calibre watches not much more (just below $4,000 USD). But the accessibility of their pieces is not limited to competitive pricing, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Zenith collaborates with Phillips and Kari Voutilainen to create a masterpiece chronometer – Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire
A new and unprecedented collaboration between Philips and Voutilainen and Zenith to restore and hand decorate a batch of Zenith Calibre 135-O movements.
Video
RAYMOND WEIL – Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Review | Time & Tide
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire
Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre
The Longines Spirit collection was one of the most instantly successful new watch releases from a big brand in years, with not a single detail out of place. It’s almost as if Longines read the collective consciousness of the world’s watch fanatics and crafted the perfect pilot-style watch, with just the right amount of vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121
Anniversaries are monumental moments in all aspects of life and they’re certainly no different in watchmaking. It has been no secret that this year marks the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, originally conceived by Gérald Genta and manufactured by Audemars Piguet in 1972, and that a successor of some form was on the horizon. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 with new in-house calibre 7121 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Omega Unveils the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold
Omega’s opening act for the year is a splendid reinterpretation of the first-ever Speedmaster, the ref. 2915-1 of 1957. More accurately, it’s a splendidly luxurious take on the vintage original. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is equipped with (almost) the same movement as the ref. 2915, and retains the same dimensions – but it’s entirely in Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy and enhanced with extras like an onyx dial and enamelled tachymeter scale. Entirely in Canopus gold, Omega’s own white gold alloy Initial thoughts Omega is starting 2022 in a big way with a heavyweight timepiece that perfectly encapsulate the brand’s historical greatness – which naturally means a Speedmaster. And it’s not just any Speedmaster, but arguably the ultimate iteration of the Moon Watch: the cal. 321 in a CK2915-1 case. The result is a watch that seems straight out of 1957 at a glance, but one that’s definitely heftier and shinier up close. The new Speedmaster does a good job at evoking a perfectly preserved example from the 1950s, thanks to clean dial that avoids faux patina. The purely modern aesthetic makes sense, since it gives the watch its own identity and clearly distinguishes it from the vintage originals and later remakes, most notably the 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster released in 2017 for the 60th anniversary of the model. That said, the new Speedmaster isn’t particularly creative – it does feel a little like yet another Speedmaster – since i...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque
Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...
Video
TAG HEUER - Link Calibre 5 Review | Time & Tide
Deployant
Zenith brings back its first and most iconic El Primero calibre with the new Chronomaster Revival A385
Zenith brings back its first and most iconic El Primero calibre with the new Chronomaster Revival A385. Here are the details.
Revolution
The Complete History of the Amazing Lemania Chronograph Calibre 2310
The Lemania 2310, aka Calibre 321 in the original Omega Moonwatch, belongs to the pantheon of the world’s greatest chronograph movements. Beautifully made, it is also incredibly durable and adaptable.
Revolution
Introducing the Monaco Chronograph 39mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic
TAG Heuer introduces the Monaco Chronograph 39mm Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic with a brand-new bracelet designed for the watch.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal
Well, the enthusiastic comments on the video, the site post and the socials have confirmed it – this new Raymond Weil Freelancer in a pitch perfect olive green, with that eye-catching exposed balance well and truly have your attention. Which is why we thought we’d upgrade the Hands-On review and bring it to you in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years
If you were to travel back in time and ask a circa 2010 horological enthusiast what some of the big players in the mainstream watchmaking game were, there’s a fair chance that Raymond Weil would get a mention. However, a lot has happened in the subsequent decade that’s followed – it could even be argued … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Which TAG Heuer Monaco is right for you? Calibre 11 (CAW211P) vs Calibre 12 (CAW2111)
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Chronograph
TAG Heuer’s first collaboration with streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment Design was the Fragment Design Carrera Heuer 02 of 2018. The vintage-inspired watch went down well and sold out quickly. Now the second collaboration has just been unveiled. Once again limited to 500 watches and powered by the same Heuer 02 movement, the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic Chronograph is modelled on the Autavia models of the 1960s and 1970s, but again given a minimalist makeover by Mr Fujiwara, who happens to be a vintage watch aficionado himself. Initial thoughts As a watch collector, Mr Fujiwara no doubt understood the cushion-shaped Autavia case, sometimes known as the “C-case”, is an instantly recognisable Heuer that has presence, making it a good candidate for a collaboration. However, unlike earlier Fragment Design watch that looked almost like a real vintage watch, the latest edition looks far more contemporary, thanks to the high-contrast colours. The use of red is restrained, especially with the tiny hour markers, just enough to give the watch the right amount of auto-racing flair. While I am generally not a fan of a date window at six o’clock, it is nicely done here. The date disc is black to match with the dial, allowing the date display to blend into the dial. And the Fragment Design double lightning bolt logo at 12 o’clock serves as a visual counterweight to the date. The case has been upsized to 44 mm from the 42 mm of the o...
WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Review
The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is simply a watch that explains Oris’s true personality. The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 goes back to the roots of what mechanical watches are all about. In today’s world, so many of us know what the things around us can do, but rarely actually know how they work. The same logic applies to mechanical watches too. We see brilliant timepieces made and know what they can do, yet rarely see or understand the inner workings behind them. This is the idea behind the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, to show as much as possible how the true inner workings of a mechanical watch operate. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 There is almost a natural connection between a mechanical watch and its owner. If we don’t wind it, or even yet move, we won’t drive enough power to turn the mainspring which ultimately powers the movement. This is what Oris is trying to show with the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Oris’s Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 was inspired by nature, in particular, a Valley named Waldenburg, which surrounds the village of Hölstein. This particular village is significant to Oris, as it is there where the brand originally began. Oris was founded in 1904, and since then the brand has been based in Hölstein. It’s no wonder then that they would go back there to find sources of inspiration for arguably the “most Oris watch” they have ever made. Oris Big Crown ProPi...
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design (44 mm) Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic Chronograph
Hiroshi Fujiwara is back with collaboration number two, the 500-piece numbered limited edition TAG Heuer x Fragment Design (44 mm) Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic Chronograph
Quill & Pad
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115: Going Full Monty
The mechanical diva on the stage of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 movement is the big kahuna itself: the extremely large mainspring visible at 12 o’clock, which provides more than 10 days of power reserve. And quite a bit more according to Anders Modig.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition
TAG Heuer has just unveiled the all-new Monaco 02, and it’s a big deal because it’s the first Monaco in the storied watch’s 50-year history to utilise a completely in-house movement. As a result, the Swiss watchmaker is kissing goodbye to the old Sellita SW300-based Calibre 12 movement, which has been a stalwart of the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
First Take: The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Chronograph
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil bares all with the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton
When Raymond Weil designed the Calibre RW1212, their first ever in-house design (produced by Sellita), I suspect part of the mandate was to show it off, hence the open escapement prominently on display - literally showing off a movement they’re rightfully proud of. Well, Raymond Weil doubled down at Basel 2018, exposing not just the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil bares all with the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition, made in collaboration with Calibre 11
Before we talk about the watch, some backstory. Calibre 11 has been one of the leading TAG Heuer resources since 2009, and the driving force behind the site is David Chalmers. A quick search of my email archive tells me that I’ve known David since 2011, and I’ve always been impressed not only by his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition, made in collaboration with Calibre 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212
It’s patently obvious, but it still bears repeating: watches are three-dimensional objects. It’s worth saying because if you’re anything like me, you spend far more time looking at watches on screens than in real life. That’s fine, it’s an unavoidable by-product of our modern world. And while some watches look exceptional in pictures, others (I … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 – a new movement in the house
Raymond Weil, one of the few independent, family-owned operations in the Swiss watch industry, marked their 40th birthday this year. And while I’m sure there was cake, and perhaps even champagne, the best part of the celebrations has to be the Calibre RW1212. This automatic movement, with distinctive open-heart escapement, is unique to Raymond Weil, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 – a new movement in the house appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Which TAG Heuer Monaco is right for you? The Calibre 11 (CAW211P) vs the Calibre 12 (CAW2111)
At some point on my watch journey, I made a resolution to resist all the shiny new things that get paraded in front of us daily and just start collecting the icons. The classics. The unquestioned cornerstones of modern watchmaking. Watches whose aesthetic, technological and for-the-good-of-humankind breakthroughs still resonate today. How’s that working out for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Which TAG Heuer Monaco is right for you? The Calibre 11 (CAW211P) vs the Calibre 12 (CAW2111) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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