Deployant
New variant: Petermann Bédat 1967 Second Series - live pics
Petermann Bédat releases a second series to their jumping seconds 1967 with the new series in ti case and a blue dial. We go hands on with live photographs.
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SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. and Minimalist Humour with Seconde/Seconde/
Having become synonymous with stunningly minimalist fume dials and a peculiar sense of humour, H. Moser & Cie. now combines both in the new Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. A limited-edition collaboration with Parisian artist Romaric Andre, who specialises in modifying watches as Seconde/Seconde/, the new watch reimagines the brand’s signature time-only watch by replacing the traditional hour hand with a pixellated eraser – a tongue-in-cheek reference to Moser’s “concept” dials that forgo the brand’s logo. Initial thoughts When I first saw the press release for the new watch, I did a double take – was it an April Fool’s gag? The watch is funny and out there, and something only Moser could pull off successfully. Being family-owned – with young, open-minded leaders – Moser can be adventurous than its peers. The Seconde/Seconde/ collaboration is Moser doing what it does well. In fact, Moser’s strength is obvious despite the “erased” logo – the watch is instantly recognisable as a Moser. I’ve always liked Moser’s whimsical offerings, such as the Apple Watch-esque Swiss Alps Final Upgrade, and now the Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/. These watches have an undeniable fun factor rarely seen in haute horlogerie, which endows the watch with a playful charm. It’s an atypical watch that is typical of the brand. At US$21,900, it’s priced identically to the standard Endeavour Centre Seconds in gold; this, however, has a ...
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video)
Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Swatch Sistem51 receives an elegance upgrade with the Petite Seconde
The Swatch Sistem51 collection centres its value proposition around two things the rest of the Swiss watch industry finds very much at odds - technical innovation and affordability. With the new Swatch Sistem51 Petite Seconde, we get both of those things in a classically dressed-up package, with the centre seconds of previous models moved to a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Swatch Sistem51 receives an elegance upgrade with the Petite Seconde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Small Second with a Minerva-Minerva Movement
During a chat with Montblanc watch division chief Davide Cerrato this weekend in Geneva – where the split-seconds chronograph he created for Only Watch sold for a 100,000 Swiss francs – he revealed the company had recently discovered a small number of finished Minerva MB M62.00 movements from the early 2000s. Already decorated and assembled, the hand-wound movements were then paired with a specially designed dial to create a discreet limited edition. The calibres were produced in 2003, during the brief period from 2000-2006 when Minerva was owned by Italian former billionaire Emilio Gnutti who was later convicted of insider trading. Mr Gnutti radically remade Minerva after he took over, elevating it from a producer of competent and honest watches into one focused on ultra high-end timepieces with exceptional movement finishing. But his endeavour was not financially viable and he sold Minerva to Richemont, which integrated the brand into Montblanc. The Minerva-Minerva movement The MB M62.00 in the new Heritage Small Second come from this period, so they have impeccable finishing. But unlike Minerva movements produced after the Montblanc takeover, these movements were wholly finished prior to the Richemont takeover so they are only marked “Minerva” and “Villeret”. Though the MB M62.00 are identical, both in style and finishing, to later movements marked “Montblanc”, aficionados will appreciate the nostalgic Minerva logo. The MB M62.00 movement is derived fr...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The smartly-designed, value-packed Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Small Second
One of the most surprising watches I’ve seen this year is the Tissot PRS 516 Triple Seconds. Tissot has taken their stalwart, sporty PRS and given it a smart makeover, and it does it at a very competitive price. At first glance you’d be forgiven for thinking that this watch is a chronograph, after all … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The smartly-designed, value-packed Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Small Second appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic True Second
Hands on review and analysis of the Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic True Second. Traditional, classical, but with a mechanical twist. Deadbeat seconds, seconde morte.
Revolution
Pre-Basel 2015: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat
Deadbeat seconds are popular this year, and the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat is an especially compelling example. Behind that beautiful dial, there’ s a new, patented caliber. The new Grande Seconde Deadbeat incorporates several subtle design elements. The Grande Seconde timepieces already featured, well, Grande Secondes. To place even greater emphasis on the seconds […]
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1
Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch
In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...
SJX Watches
Sylvain Pinaud Returns with 30-Second Tourbillon
With wind in his sails following the successful Origine series, independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud returns with his most ambitious project yet, the succinctly named Tourbillon. The watch looks and feels a lot like its time-only predecessor, but the movement is in fact completely different, with twin mainspring barrels and a fast-rotating 30-second tourbillon. The Tourbillon in platinum with a white agate dial. Initial thoughts Appetite remains strong for high-end time-only watches, but the leading independents are increasingly leaving simplicity behind and treating their collectors to additional complications. Mr Pinaud’s Tourbillon exemplifies this shift. Despite the greater complexity of its movement, the Tourbillon is no larger than the simpler Origine. In fact, it’s about 1 mm smaller in diameter. That’s impressive considering it fits an extra mainspring barrel and adds a zero-reset seconds functionality to its namesake tourbillon. This latter functionality - specifically its heart cam - is on full display through an opening in the running seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock. But its the 30-second tourbillon that gives the watch its name, and which warrants special scrutiny. Fast-rotating tourbillons - which rotate more quickly than once per minute - are quite rare. They require more energy and greater care in assembly, since they almost invariably use lighter components. In the case of the Tourbillon, the slender three-armed cage is made of titanium, r...
Worn & Wound
Hodinkee Launches their Second Collaboration with French Retailer Merci
Hodinkee and Parisian concept shop Merci have just released the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition for Hodinkee for their second collaboration together. You’re undoubtedly familiar with Hodinkee, but for those uninitiated to the Marais-based store, Merci embodies Parisian chic while offering a curated selection of products ranging from home goods to fashion. Through its subsidiary brand, Merci Instruments, the company combines a lighthearted approach to watchmaking with an eye towards the past for inspiration. The design of the Merci Instruments Beaumarchais H02 Limited Edition reflects a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of 1940s dress watches. Unlike traditional round or square cases, this watch features an octagon-shaped frame, adding a modern twist to its classic inspiration. The 36mm case exhibits multiple layers of depth, with a brushed steel rehaut, an anthracite grey hour track, and a vertically brushed center. Notable design details include the blue-painted seconds hand and the NYC and Paris markings at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is completed with an 18mm Honey Brown leather strap, which softens the angular features of this watch. The Beaumarchais H02 is equipped with the ultra-thin Miyota 9039 automatic caliber, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and ensures the 36mm case remains a sleek 9.8mm thick. The stainless steel 316L case is durable and water-resistant up to 10 ATM while the watch is also equipped with a sapphire crystal, making...
Worn & Wound
Wait a seconde/seconde/: A Conversation with Romaric André
If you’re involved in the watch industry to any degree, even as a collector, you’ve definitely heard of seconde/seconde/, or at least seen his work. Timex, Bausele, Lima, Squale, Atelier Wen, Bamford Watch Co., Spinnaker, Furlan Marri, Maen, Sequent, Isotope, Louis Erard, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen - high end, entry level, micro brand, independent, and large established companies. Romaric André (seconde/seconde/) has vandalized the world of watches at every level. He makes us smile, and causes many of us to view this large and serious industry with a bit of levity and added consideration. I connected with Romaric via Instagram. During the month of January my hand was broken, so instead of posting my own wrist shots I thought it would be fun to highlight friends in the Instagram watch community. One such friend had a Timex x seconde/seconde/ Polar collaboration with a wonderful whirling penguin rotating for a seconds hand. I made a comment in the caption stating that I wish I had jumped on the Timex x seconde/seconde/ collaboration, and moments later Romaric popped into my DM’s to let me know where I could get one at retail price. It brought me such joy to connect with him and get the watch, but it also opened the door for me to conduct an interview and get to know a bit about the man behind all the fun. Although it might seem like seconde/seconde/ has been part of our community only recently, he’s actually been involved with watches for some time. After going ...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Subtracting a Leap Second, a Huge Star Trek Collection, and, Yes, More Dune News
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Could Climate Change Cause a Negative Leap Second? The “leap second” is one of those weird little timing quirks that sometimes comes up in human interest stories about online networks going down for unexpected reasons, or the strange particulars of how we arrive at standard time worldwide. Leap seconds, for the uninitiated, have to be implemented periodically because of the irregular rotation of the earth. One second might not seem like a big deal, but extrapolating a one second timing error over the course of years, centuries, and millenia can have a major impact. Now, as NPR reports, we might need to lose a second rather than add one at some point in the near future, and the culprit might be climate change. It’s not often discussed, but the impacts of climate change extend to the rotation of our planet, and it appears that it might be slowing it down slightly. It’s not the first thing you think of when you consider the impact of our warming planet, but in its own way could be as critical as many of the effects that get most of the headlines. A Star Trek Collection Like Yo...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials
The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial. These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast. The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 posi...
SJX Watches
Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031)
A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms. Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve. The new Zeitwerk in pink gold And the second-generation L043.6 Initial thoughts In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original. Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room. The second generation (left) and its predecessor In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint. Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar f...
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Smoked Red
Just last year Montblanc introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph powered by a gorgeous, mono-pusher Minerva movement. Debuted in a bronze case, the watch was a hit, and for good reason, it combined attractive, well-chosen vintage details and an well-finished movement, all for a very fair price. Having unveiled several other limited-edition versions of the watch since, Montblanc is continuing with the theme with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8, an exclusive for Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches that has a smoked, dark red dial and a titanium case. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph for Sincere Initial thoughts After the launch edition, Montblanc debuted an eight-piece limited edition in November 2019 made for Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) that had a striking jade dial, which was followed by a hundred-piece limited edition with a stunning gradient-blue grand feu enamel dial in April of this year. And in between, it managed to put together a one-off example with an agate dial for charity auction Only Watch 2019. That makes the new Sincere edition the fifth iteration of the 1858 split seconds in less than 24 months. But fortunately it does not feel overdone – yet – given the small production runs for each version, as well as the interesting variety of dial materials. The first version of the 1858 split seconds in bronze The most obvious point of appeal of the watch is movement, which is derived from...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a Jade Dial
Following the launch of the one-of-a-kind 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a blue agate dial for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction, Montblanc has unveiled a limited edition in bronze with a nephrite jade dial. The eight-piece edition was created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), a big watch fair in Mexico City attended by most major brands, explaining the green dial with red accents – a nod to the Mexican flag. Though the bronze-and-green livery has been applied to multiple models in the 1858 range, the new SIAR edition adds a fascinating point of departure, with the dial being a semiprecious stone rather than the usual lacquered brass. The dial is essentially a thin slice of nephrite, a mineral better known as jade. It’s usually dark green, but sometimes also yellow or white; white nephrite is known as “mutton fat” jade in China and highly prized. The other mineral also known as jade is jadeite, but it’s harder, denser and often found in brighter colours. Mechanically and aesthetically, the watch is as retro as it gets. The design of the dial was inspired by a pilot’s chronograph produced by Minerva in the 1930s. It has a double chronograph scales – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the centre. The rose-gold plated cathedral hands and Arabic numerals are coated with faux-aged lume, as on the regular production model. The red seconds numerals and hand adds a rich contrast against the pleasingly busy dial, ...
SJX Watches
The Citizen’s Latest Gets Indigo Washi Paper Dial
Next month Citizen’s The Citizen collection brings a new look to its exceedingly accurate high-end quartz watches. Still accurate to five seconds a year, or better, with a perpetual calendar and scratch-resistant titanium case, this limited edition introduces an indigo-dyed washi paper dial, produced using traditional craft methods. Initial thoughts Citizen’s The Citizen collection, which celebrated 30 years of questionable naming just last year, remains somewhat obscure even amongst watch enthusiasts. That’s unfortunate, as it has nothing to do with the quality of the watches, which are excellent and often handsome. And while the line now includes mechanical watches, high-end quartz is where The Citizen really shines. No two examples are the same. Though frequently compared to Grand Seiko’s cal. 9F movement family, I would argue The Citizen’s A0 line of solar quartz movements are of a different breed, more comparable to Seiko’s cal. 3X Astron movements or even Casio’s high-end G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power-save made that pauses the hands to save energy when the watch is not in use. However, The Citizen’s aesthetic differs widely from those of the Astron and G-Shock, favouring the sharply reserved style that has defined chronometry-focused Japanese watchmaking for decades. The other key difference is autonomy. Unlike Astrons and G-Shocks, which can vary by as much as 15 seconds per month without network synchronisat...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier with Clous de Paris and Stroopwafel Dials
Lebois & Co, an old name revived by Tom van Wijlick, a Dutch native, has steadily built a collection of classically styled, vintage-character watches. Last year’s Heritage Small Seconds introduced a compact dress watch series inspired by the brand’s mid-century archives. Now, two new references are launching the Heritage Atelier collection: the Small Seconds Clous […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: IWC’s Pioneering ProSet Perpetual Calendar
IWC’s history is dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module; the ProSet perpetual calendar system continues this legacy. This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, and remains true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. A smaller Big Pilot QP The Big Pilot ProSet unveiled at Watches & Wonders blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost indistinguishable from the original 46 mm version. Apart from some styling choices, the main difference in the displays is the lack of a power reserve indicator. The cal. 82665 inside is powered by a single mains...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: IWC’s ProSet Perpetual Calendar
IWC’s history was dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module. Though IWC has arguably been thin on such innovation in recent years, the ProSet perpetual calendar is a long overdue return to form. The calendar’s clever features make it true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. Set entirely via the crown just like the Kurt Klaus calendar, ProSet can also be adjusted forwards and backwards, making it both idiot-proof and convenient. A smaller Big Pilot This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, which blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District
Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]
Time+Tide
The Kiwame Tokyo KUBO (窪) puts Japanese design philosophy centre stage
Kiwame Tokyo’s new KUBO (窪) collection pairs three lacquered dials and a recessed small-seconds display with Japanese design philosophy.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - Alternatives to Central Hands to Break Conventions
Look at most analogue watches, and you’ll see central hour and minute hands, and the majority have central seconds as well. It’s a perfected design that can be traced back to Ancient Egypt, when sundial shadows moved across the dial plate in a clockwise rotation. We’ve already looked at Unconventional Ways Watches Can Relay Time […]
Fratello
News: Seiko Creates A One-Off With The Star Time Watch For Shohei Ohtani
Seiko has unveiled a unique mechanical watch to mark baseball player Shohei Ohtani’s10th anniversary as the brand’s ambassador in Japan. The company spent around three years developing the Seiko Star Time after drawing inspiration from Ohtani’s question: “How much time do I have left in my baseball career?” Instead of measuring elapsed seconds or featuring […] Visit News: Seiko Creates A One-Off With The Star Time Watch For Shohei Ohtani to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Re-Defining the Hype of Quiet Luxury with the Moser Streamliner Minis
There was one particular moment the Moser Streamliner clicked for me. I was fresh off my first enameling apprenticeship in the summer of 2023. At Geneva Watch Days, Moser was previewing some new models set to launch at Dubai Watch Week later that year, and one of those models was the Streamliner Small Seconds Aqua Blue. As a refresher, this is a standard mid-size 39mm build, but most importantly, it introduced an enamel dial to the collection for the first time. Let’s be clear, this isn’t any ordinary enamel dial. It starts with a hand-hammered solid gold base topped with three varying pigments of translucent aqua-blue enamel applied over the course of a whopping 12 firings to achieve the unique fume effect radiating from light to dark around the periphery. The result of the intricate process creates a visual range much broader than aqua-blue alone, evoking bright tones of turquoise and deep tones of violet in high and low light. Having just come off a week of training in an enameling atelier on far simpler designs, my degree of admiration and respect for the brand grew tenfold. This wasn’t just a beautifully streamlined (and perfectly named) take on the classic integrated bracelet sport watch – this was a true way of making a stainless steel sport watch luxurious, artisanal, and dare I say elegant. From that point forward, I started to develop a bit of an obsession with the Streamliner, and it began to inch toward my grail list of dream models. However, there’s ...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - Toyota Makes It Six At Le Mans, Beating BMW and Cadillac To The Line
Racing for 24 hours straight, only to cross the finish line a handful of seconds ahead of second place, with third place closing in fast as well. That’s pretty much what happened at the final stages of the 2026 running of the Le Mans 24 Hours. After three straight wins for Ferrari with the 499P, […]