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SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One SJX Watches
Voutilainen May 1, 2026

Hands-On: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One

Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement.  Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial Hodinkee
Naoya Hida Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial

What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026 Hodinkee
Ming experience Apr 24, 2026

Photo Report: The Sights, Watches, And Style Of Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year, as spring returns to the shores of Lake Geneva, bringing with it contrasting days of grey rainy dreariness and crisp, shimmering sunshine, a storm descends upon the picturesque canton. But this storm doesn't contain the aforementioned April showers; instead, it's thousands upon thousands of passionate professionals, journalists, retailers, brand representatives, and collectors, all congregating for that most celebrated of horological weeks: Watches & Wonders. For those who attend, it is a marathon of epic proportions, with days spent rushing from one appointment to the next with barely a moment to breathe and evenings spent either at fabulous dinners or hunched over laptops until the wee hours of the morning. It's a pace that gives you whiplash (and for those who work for the brands, be it in sales, PR, marketing, or otherwise, it is even more grueling). For everyone else following along at home with a love for watches, it is the Super Bowl, Christmas Morning, and the Emerald City at the end of the Yellow Brick Road, all rolled into one. Walking into the show for the first time is an overwhelming experience. The sheer scope and scale of the installations (to call them 'booths' deeply undersells the grandeur) are hard to understand. Each brand spends months, if not years, designing and building entire flagship boutiques within the halls of Palexpo, each trying to make an impact on the industry and communicate its themes, strategies, and identity for the coming ye...

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Apr 20, 2026

Venezianico Introduces the Arsenale Calendario

Fresh off the nonstop excitement of Watches & Wonders, it’s easy to ignore any releases that occur outside of the Geneva city limits. The spring is still young, though, and there are still plenty of exciting launches to go in 2026. In that vein, Italian brand Venezianico is doubling down on their mission of Italian-made mechanical timepieces with the new Arsenale Calendario duo, inspired by the Arsenale di Venezia, the world’s oldest shipyard. The Arsenale collection isn’t brand new: the Meteorite model touched on space as a theme, and the Bizantino and Sumi-e watches took more decorative, artistic approaches. The Calendario, though, draws from what Venezianico calls “the architecture of time”. Basically, it adds new complications-a complete calendar, a power-reserve indicator, and a day-night indicator-to emphasize the passing of time in a material way.  In terms of basic dimensions, the Calendario sits within a 316L stainless steel case with a satin finish, and measures in at 40mm in diameter and 44mm lug-to-lug. It’s not exactly thin at 9.6mm of thickness, and the double-domed sapphire adds another 1.4mm on the top, giving it a solid presence despite the dress watch-adjacent design. A knurled stainless steel bezel and screw-down crown at 3 o’clock add texture to the case, and further emphasize the depth of the sunburst dial, which is available in two colorways: burgundy red and blue. These are not subtle shades, and the concentric texture of the dial ...

WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases Deployant
Patek Philippe s 7047G Apr 20, 2026

WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Introducing – The New Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue Monochrome
Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue Apr 16, 2026

Introducing – The New Grand Seiko SBGY043 Iwao Blue

The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection is home to some of the brand’s most restrained and poetic creations. Models such as the Omiwatari, Karasawa, and other hand-wound Spring Drive references demonstrate how minimalism, texture, and mechanical refinement can coexist. The new SBGY043 Iwao Blue keeps the successful, elegant formula that made earlier editions so attractive and […]

First Look – The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376 Grand Apr 15, 2026

First Look – The Yellow Gold Grand Seiko 62GS Sakura-Wakaba SBGH376

Grand Seiko is renowned for its nature-inspired, handcrafted dials that capture Japan’s seasonal landscapes. The annual flowering of the cherry blossom heralds the arrival of spring and inspires profound reverence in Japan as a symbol of life’s fleeting beauty and renewal. Grand Seiko captures the evanescent beauty of the cherry blossom for a lifetime on […]

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue”

At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive.  Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast.  This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness.  Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...

First Look – The New Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition Monochrome
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The New Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

Armin Strom is an undisputed champion of watchmaking in consistently exploring the physics of resonance. Since the debut of its Mirrored Force Resonance in 2016, the brand has developed a recognisable mechanical signature based on dual oscillators linked by a clutch spring. The new Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition revisits one of its most […]

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff SJX Watches
Patek Philippe 5164 but only Apr 14, 2026

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is Ready for Takeoff

Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...

Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition Fratello
Oris Star Re-Edition Today Oris Apr 14, 2026

Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition

Today, Oris introduces its Star re-edition. It’s a celebration of the very first Oris watch to feature a lever escapement, from 1966. But “Oris Star” sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Back in 2023, we collaborated with the company from Hölstein on the Fratello × Oris Divers Sixty-Five with “Star” on the dial, just like its 1968 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Star Re-Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – The Arnold & Son UltraThin Tourbillon Onyx Edition Monochrome
Bulgari s 1.95mm Octo Finissimo Apr 10, 2026

Introducing – The Arnold & Son UltraThin Tourbillon Onyx Edition

Arnold & Son’s UTTE – Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement – debuted at Baselworld 2013, powered by the ultra-thin 2.97mm hand-wound calibre A&S;8200. Recognised as the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch, the title was stolen from Arnold & Son just one year later with Bulgari’s 1.95mm Octo Finissimo Tourbillon. Still remarkably thin, Arnold & Son’s Ultrathin Tourbillon […]

Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms Fratello
Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Apr 4, 2026

Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms

The Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms is a wonderful holiday watch. Providing a mechanical caliber and the wearing experience of a Blancpain, this Swatch is a whole lot of fun. It’s good that this plasticky watch has a decent level of waterproofness too. Sydney’s spring has been a tempestuous affair to say the least. […] Visit Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms to read the full article.

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Seiko Mar 9, 2026

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...

Introducing – A Ruby Stone Dial for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Mar 2, 2026

Introducing – A Ruby Stone Dial for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance

In 2016, Armin Strom rocked the watchmaking scene with the release of its Mirrored Force Resonance, an incredible technical breakthrough that miniaturised the centuries-old concept of synchronised motion into the confines of a wristwatch. Using two independent oscillators coupled by a patented resonance clutch spring, Armin Strom breathed life into Christiaan Huygens’ observation that two […]

The 9 Most Accurate Watches for the Precision-Obsessed Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 2, 2026

The 9 Most Accurate Watches for the Precision-Obsessed

Fundamentally, mechanical and quartz movements do the same thing: they both tell thetime. But the ways in which they both do it couldn’t be more different. Not to get into acomparison guide here, but in a nutshell: a mechanical watch is powered by a mainspringthat’s either wound by hand or automatically through wrist movement. Energy is releasedthrough a complex system of gears, an escapement, and a balance wheel that beats steadily back and forth. There’s no battery, just centuries-old engineering refined to an art form. These watches aren’t the most accurate, but accuracy isn’t really the point. Craftsmanship, tradition, and the emotional connection are. Quartz watches, on the other hand, are powered by a battery and use an electrical current to make a quartz crystal vibrate at 32,768 times per second. That vibration is incredibly stable, which is why quartz watches are vastly more accurate and require far less maintenance. They’re practical, reliable, and often more durable for everyday use, as well as being notably more affordable. Neither system is inherently “better,” though. Mechanical watches speak to passion and heritage, while quartz prioritizes precision and convenience. Ultimately, it’s less about the movement inside and more about what you want your watch to represent on your wrist. [toc-section heading="Next-Level Accuracy"] Some watches measure accuracy in seconds per day, others by seconds per month. Butthere also exists a small group of t...

Introducing – The Classic Spirit of the Voutilainen 216TMZ Worldtime Monochrome
Voutilainen Jan 2, 2026

Introducing – The Classic Spirit of the Voutilainen 216TMZ Worldtime

Independent Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the best in his field. Working from his atelier in Motiers, which he founded in 2002, Voutilainen is known for his high-end watches with in-house movements and hand-guilloché dials. His latest watch, the 216TMZ Worldtime, features a movement with a direct-impulse double escapement, first […]

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin also surprised Dec 31, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises

Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of 2025, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex’s landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet’s experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer’s industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch. Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 – happy new year! Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Announced: The Finalists For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives 2025–2026 Fratello
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Dec 25, 2025

Announced: The Finalists For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives 2025–2026

The final round of the second Louis Vuitton Watch Prize competition will commence in the spring of 2026. The initiative aims to support and celebrate independent watchmakers who challenge convention. It highlights creativity, technical mastery, and a strong personal vision. That’s not just a clever way of connecting the brand name to some serious horological […] Visit Announced: The Finalists For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives 2025–2026 to read the full article.

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Dec 23, 2025

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

From one-off artistic creations to new escapement technologies, 2025 delivered more than its share of surprises and unexpected developments. Brands with institutional research and development departments led the way with unexpected material breakthroughs, while Geneva’s oldest watchmaker surprised (and delighted) with a clock of astronomical proportions. Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement - SJX Given its institutional nature, Rolex rarely surprises, but when it does, the brand does so in a big way. The Land-Dweller was unquestionably one of the biggest debuts from Rolex in a long time. The integrated bracelet design is certainly a departure from the prevailing house style, but the Land-Dweller is a landmark mainly for the movement inside, the cal. 7135 that boasts the Dynapulse escapement. While Rolex movements have enjoyed largely incremental improvements for years, the cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is a radical break because it’s an all-new movement with an all-new escapement. The Dynapulse escapement is one of the most forward-thinking inventions by Rolex, arguably ever. A double-wheel, detached and indirect-tangential impulse escapement, the Dynapulse is arguably among the most advanced escapements on the market today – and the cal. 7135 is probably the most precise self-winding movement on the market. More crucially, it is being produced at scale. A new escapement is an achievement, but a new escapement manufactured in large numbers is a bona fide fea...