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New: Bremont WR-45 Limited Edition in partnership with Williams Racing
Discover the Bremont WR-45 LIMITED EDITION, a motorsport-inspired chronograph created in partnership with Williams Racing.
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Discover the Bremont WR-45 LIMITED EDITION, a motorsport-inspired chronograph created in partnership with Williams Racing.
SJX Watches
Breitling is introducing a luxe variation of its flagship chronograph to mark the tenth year of S&S; Group, a luxury retailer that represents brands ranging from Rolls Royce to Richard Mille in Vietnam. The Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary” Limited Edition is making its debut just in time for the opening of the Breitling boutique in the Vietnamese capital, Hanoi. Initial thoughts Highlighting its focus on Southeast Asia, it comes as no surprise that Breitling has unveiled another edition of its trademark chronograph, following the Singapore Airlines edition from last year. But instead of a mere change of colour as it usually does, Breitling has employed mother-of-pearl for the dial, an unusual material for the brand but one that adds a touch of extravagance to an otherwise functional pilot’s watch. The mother-of-pearl dial instantly sets this apart from the standard Navitimer, particularly with the red gold case. Perhaps the only thing missing is the retailer’s logo on the dial, a detail that would hark back to the double-signed dials that are desirable in vintage watches. Priced at US$21,800, the S&S; Navitimer is slightly more expensive than the standard production model in rose gold that has a plain, cream dial. This increase can primarily be attributed to the mother-of-pearl dial and seems fairly proportional for the upgrade in dial material. Tenth anniversary This Navitimer edition celebrates the tenth year of S&S; Group, which was founded in 2013 as the s...
SJX Watches
Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...
SJX Watches
The flagship model in Patek Philippe’s special edition line-up for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Quadruple Complication Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5308P-010 is an entirely new reference that becomes one of the most complicated watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Described as a quadruple complication because it has a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and a twin chronograph, the ref. 5308P is a direct evolution of the ref. 5208. Both are essentially alike, save for the addition of the split-seconds mechanism in the ref. 5308P. Initial thoughts Like all of Patek Philippe’s top-of-the-line grand comps, the ref. 5308P is an imposing and heavy watch that makes a statement on the wrist (unlike the relatively compact ref. 5330G World Time created for the same event). And with the “rose-gilt opaline” dial, this is also visually striking and definitely hard to miss. Though it might seem similar to the ref. 5208, with only an additional seconds hand to set them apart, the ref. 5308P incorporates some interesting technical tweaks, including a revised isolator mechanism for the split seconds. Still, like the ref. 5208, the ref. 5308P is a modular grand complication with the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronographs made up of modules stacked up under the dial. This is arguably a less sophisticated solution then an integrated chronograph (a perpetual calendar is conventionally a module regardless). Four comps The ref. 5308P has a dial in “ro...
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Bvlgari extends their very popular Aluminium collection with new references in time only, a destro model, and chronograph.
Time+Tide
The Norqain Freedom 60 Ice Blue Limited Edition brings fresh new colour to the catalogue. Its 100m water-resistant case makes it ready for adventure even as a chronograph. It’s a limited edition of 300 pieces. Norqain are a brand that pride themselves on adventuring and environmentalism, however their best-selling watch is actually one of the … ContinuedThe post The Norqain Freedom 60 Ice Blue is a blast of menthol freshness on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...
Time+Tide
All the rage at the IWC booth during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders was the revamped Genta Ingenieur, and rightfully so, for the most part. This story, however, is not about the Ingenieur, but IWC’s bread and butter – pilot’s watches – and more specifically, the brand new Pilot’s Chronograph 41 in stunning … ContinuedThe post IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Discover the Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition watch, a remarkable timepiece crafted in carbon fiber and featuring sustainability-inspired design elements. With its high-frequency chronograph movement and recycled parts, this exclusive watch embodies innovation and environmental consciousness. Limited to 100 pieces, it is available at Zenith boutiques worldwide.
Worn & Wound
In an early contender for what has to be in the running for the most unexpected and head spinning collaborative watches of the year, Hublot has partnered with Nespresso, the Swiss coffee company, on a big green chronograph made in part from recycled aluminum coffee capsules. It’s an effort by both brands to highlight their sustainability efforts, and an opportunity for Hublot flex some of their materials muscle. The end result is undeniably Hublot in its appearance, and kind of an under the radar coffee watch, which is more than can be said about LVMH stablemate TAG Heuer’s Carrera from a few years ago, with a dial made from actual coffee grounds. I actually quite like that coffee Carrera, and enjoy taking any opportunity available to remind people that it’s a real watch that actually exists. Anyway, back to Hublot, and the Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin. To fully grasp this watch, you first need to have an understanding of Nespresso’s core product, which is a single serving coffee platform built around little aluminum capsules (containing the coffee) that get popped into a Nespresso machine, and at the touch of a button you get a perfectly brewed cup of coffee, espresso, or a selection of other hot and cold beverages. Nespresso, of course, isn’t the only game in town when it comes to this sort of single serving coffee machine, but one thing that sets them apart from some of their competition is a focus on the materials used for those capsules. The aluminum po...
Worn & Wound
This week in watches sees the return of the classic Sea-Chron diving chronograph from Zodiac. The watch has come back in multiple handsome colorways with full personality on display and case to match. See more details on the Sea-Chron in our intro here, and keep an eye out for a full review coming soon. Elsewhere, Seiko revealed yet another collaborative collection done with Rowing Blazers, this time in Seiko 5 watches with 4 colorways that will have you set for summer. More about the new Seiko x Rowing Blazers right here. That wasn’t all from Seiko this week, who also revealed a new member of their Sharp Edge collection within the Presage family. This watch opens the dial to reveal a view to the new 6R5J 3 day automatic movement within. More details on that Seiko right here. There’s more news from MessanaLAB and their new Massena HOUSE concept, as well as a new Miami Pink IWC Pilot Chronograph, all in the full episode below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the new Hydrotimer watch from Jack Mason. This distinctively handsome diver measures 40mm in diameter and features a ceramic bezel, a boxed sapphire crystal, and a quick adjust system built right into the clasp. Jack Mason regulates and assembles the movement for the Hydrotimer in the USA. Learn more about the Hydrotimer from Jack Mason right here. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 49: The Sea-Chron Returns & Rowing Blazers Hits the Seiko 5 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Aluminium collection has been expanded with bigger cases and new colours. The Capri Solotempo and Chronograph evoke the Italian island with an electric-blue gradient dial. The Match Point Edition adds a subtle touch of green for tennis lovers. The Bulgari Aluminium has always been a stealth watch, not because it has any degree … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Aluminium collection adds bigger cases and fresh colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The next generation of the enthusiast-favorite annual calendar chronograph is reintroduced by one of its original designers.
Quill & Pad
Watches and Wonders 2022 marked the introduction of the new Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Edition, which is all about the detail of color. It harks back to an episode in the chronograph’s 1970s history when American oil company Gulf and Heuer were both major sponsors of Formula 1 teams. And the good news is that it isn't a limited edition.
SJX Watches
Last year Habring² finally delivered something collectors had long been seeking, a compact version of its signature split-seconds chronograph, which now forms the base for the Doppel 38 “Monochrome x Habring²”. A one-off that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction to benefit charity, the Doppel 38 is a collaboration between Habring² and Monochrome Watches, online watch magazine based in the Netherlands. The Doppel 38 takes its cues from the limited-edition chronograph Habring² made for the 15th anniversary of Netherlands-based Monochrome. Initial thoughts The one-off Doppel 38 is essentially a more complex version of Monochrome’s 15th anniversary edition, the Montre de Souscription 1 (MDS1), which was a conventional, single-button chronograph. Naturally the Doppel 38 sports a split-seconds movement and consequently, a slightly thicker case, but it is aesthetically almost identical to the MDS1, having the same “salmon” dial. Ordinarily, reissuing a limited edition in near-identical format is a no-no, but in this case it is both sensible and appealing because the Doppel 38 is a one-of-a-kind creation and it will be sold to benefit a children’s charity. It’s being offered with an estimate of CHF10,000-20,000 – the low estimate is approximately the retail price of the regular production Doppel 38 – which is certainly acceptable. And given the worthy recipient of the proceeds, one certainly hopes for more than the high estimate. Subtle tweaks ...
Worn & Wound
Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture. All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars. Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...
Time+Tide
Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebratesthe Golden Ratio with their Reversos. Including the new Reverso mechanical chronograph and other models.
Revolution
Bart and Tim Grönefeld grew up in a watchmaking family, and together they have propelled their eponymous brand to enormous success in independent watchmaking and haute horlogerie. Here’s a closer look at the 1941 Grönograaf launched last year, which is the brand’s first chronograph. The 40mm 1941 Grönograaf in steel (188-piece limited edition) or tantalum […]
Revolution
Jean-Marie Schaller strove for years to find out more about the legendary watchmaker Louis Moinet, who had very little surviving documentation about him. He acquired the Louis Moinet brand with its trademarks in 2000, and eventually discovered that Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph and of high frequency watches. At Watches and Wonders […]
Revolution
Eleonor Picciotto, Editor-at-Large of Revolution, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, sit down with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare to find out more about the 2023 renditions of the Zenith Pilot. The manufacture debuted a diverse array of novelties at Watches and Wonders 2023. Among these were the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Zenith Pilot Automatic, […]
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Our picks from Montblanc with 4 new 0 Oxygen series and two new chronograph releases in based on Minerva favourites, but with a twist.
SJX Watches
While De Bethune is best known for its avant-garde designs and signature spring-loaded floating lugs, the brand’s early years were characterised by more traditional styling. Fresh off the press, the DB Eight calls to mind the brand’s early products, most notably the DB1 mono-pusher chronograph from 2002, but adds many of the technical refinements that De Bethune has become known for. Dressed in a polished titanium case and guilloché dial, the DB Eight fills a hole in the brand’s current line-up by offering collectors a simple, manually wound mono-pusher chronograph, albeit one that lacks the technical and decorative refinement collectors expect at this price point. Thanks to its wide but slim case and narrow bezel, the DB Eight will likely wear larger than its 42.4 mm diameter would suggest Initial thoughts I’m probably in the minority when it comes to my preference for De Bethune’s more classically styled models like the original DB1. Given this preference, I naturally I gravitated towards the new DB Eight more than I have to some of the brand’s other recent offerings like the DB28XP. But while I like the design of the DB Eight, the substance does not meet my expectations for the brand. Let’s start with the good news. De Bethune has addressed the cross-eyed look of the DB1 with a new movement that offers an instantaneous 60-minute counter for the elapsed time at six o’clock. This creates a balanced look that at first glance might even pass for a time-...
Time+Tide
For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, discuss TAG Heuer’s new Plasma timepieces. The star timepiece is the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon, which is 44mm in case size and has 124 lab-grown diamonds. Alongside a few other Carrera timepieces launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 such […]
Revolution
Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Revolution Editor-at-large Eleonor Picciotto got to see a truly special chronograph. They had the privilege of experiencing the 100-piece limited edition Odysseus Chronograph. They discussed this new novelty with Wilhelm Schmid, who is the CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, one of the most desirable brands in luxury. The 42.5mm […]
Deployant
The Hermes H08 line is extended with new cases/colours and a brand new monopusher Chronograph, and gemset moonphase watch.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...
Time+Tide
The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection pays tribute to the Swiss watchmaking side of the Italian brand. With dials featuring a hobnail pattern, their sportiness is accentuated. Both Automatic and Chronograph models come with a steel bracelet and extra rubber strap with a quick-release system. Sneaking in just before 2023’s edition of Watches & Wonders, … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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