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Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sep 2, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial

Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...

A watch for C-3PO - the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition Time+Tide
Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition Sep 1, 2019

A watch for C-3PO - the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition

The recent anniversary of the moon landing saw my Instagram feed explode with Speedmaster wrist shots, and an overwhelming number of watch brands releasing special edition watches to commemorate the event. But when the new Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition somehow beat the algorithm and made its way onto the top of my explore feed, I … ContinuedThe post A watch for C-3PO – the Zodiac Astrographic Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3414 Aug 26, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol”

The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar Aug 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue

Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection - first released in 2018 - is a refreshingly upbeat take on mid-century design, full of personality and warmth. And this new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue keeps the tempo up. The case looks simple at first glance, but quickly gathers sophistication the more you study it. I … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: David Newman, Chairman of The George Daniels Trust - Part I SJX Watches
Aug 5, 2019

Interview: David Newman, Chairman of The George Daniels Trust - Part I

David Newman was one of George Daniels’ oldest friends, having met the late watchmaker half a century ago. They shared a bond born out of a common love for watches, clocks and fast cars – Mr Newman is 78 but drives a Porsche 911. In fact, their friendship is best illustrated by a tale Daniels recounted with obvious relish in his autobiography All in Good Time: Reflections of a Watchmaker. Sometime in the early 1960s, just after Daniels bought a new home, he and Mr Newman had to push a naked Bentley chassis from a rented garage, through South Norwood High Street, past a police station, over a bridge and railway line, in order to install the half-complete automobile in Daniels’ new home. The chassis naturally got stuck at the bridge, causing a traffic jam several blocks long made up of spectators who just left a nearby Crystal Palace football game. With help from passersby, the duo managed to get enough momentum for the chassis to roll along on its own, although only Daniels was on board. More importantly, Mr Newman was also one of Daniels’ most trusted friends – the watchmaker appointed Mr Newman chairman of the George Daniels’ Educational Trust, making the former building surveyor the lead guardian of the Daniels legacy. Long retired from his professional career, Mr Newman now oversees the trust almost full time. Most of the trust’s substantial income goes to fund education, a cause close to Daniels’ heart. Though a negligible portion of the trus...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Aug 2, 2019

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot “Right-Hander” Limited Edition

IWC’s popular, oversized pilot’s watch is already available in as many variations as the sky is high, but the latest limited edition – the Big Pilot’s Watch “Right-Hander” – is the first that’s a “destro”. Italian for “right”, destro is a nickname often applies to watches with a left-handed crown, and thus catered to right-handed people. Because the onion-shaped crown sits at nine o’clock instead of the usual three, the movement inside has been rotated 180 degrees, bringing the power reserve indicator to nine o’clock as well. For those wondering if this is inspired by a historical, “destro” pilot’s watch, the answer is no. This is just a reinterpretation of a bestselling model. Crown-aside, the look is pretty much stock Big Pilot. The dial is a dark grey, with luminous markings and hands in white SuperLuminova. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model. The steel case is 46.2mm in diameter, with automatic cal. 52010 inside. It’s the second generation of the flagship IWC automatic movement, featuring a seven-day power reserve and a Pellaton winding mechanism with its pawls and winding wheels in wear-resistant ceramic. Key facts Diameter: 46.2mm Height: 15.6mm Material: Steel Water-resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 52010 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 168 hours (7 days) Strap: Calfskin with folding clasp Price and availab...

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch Chanel Aug 1, 2019

Hands-On: Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Watch

Chanel has been slowly but steadily building up its line of mechanical watches powered by high-end, in-house movements. Most notable is the Monsieur de Chanel jump hour, created with the help of respected independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier, who sold a minority stake in his company to Chanel several years ago. Mr Gauthier also had a hand in last year’s Boy.Friend Skeleton, a top of the line variant of Chanel’s fashionable rectangular watch. Fancy mechanics are usually the preserve of men’s watches, but the Boy.Friend Skeleton boasts an impressively thoughtful, open-worked movement, the Calibre 3. In fact, the design and details of the in-house movement show that it was conceived from the ground up with a particular aesthetic goal in mind. It’s the only way to create a skeleton movement that looks as coherent as this does. An especially beautiful detail are the gilded bevels on the outermost frame of the base plate and the sub-seconds, which emphasise the finish and shape of the movement. Chanel circles The Calibre 3 has been constructed to incorporate a series of repeating, interlocking circles, a favourite motif of Chanel’s chief watch designer, Arnaud Chastaingt. The motif starts with the bridges and base plate, which are all brass finish with a frosted surface coated in black amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC). A telling indication of the attention to detail put into its construction lies in how the bridges are constructed. Instead of being a sing...

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet SJX Watches
Rolex Wants Jul 29, 2019

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet

Many great human endeavours that Rolex has been part of have a distinctly earthly ring to them. From Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summiting the world’s tallest mountain to Jacques Piccard reaching the deepest point in the oceans, or even Fidel Castro journeying through Cuba’s rainforests, a great deal of the planet has been covered with a Rolex keeping time. While Geneva watchmaking giant has sponsored various explorers over the decades, its focus has now shifted subtly, but substantially. Rolex will support ecologically minded explorers of the natural world, specifically to help them learn how to preserve it. Named Perpetual Planet, this doubtlessly well funded initiative consolidates three of the company’s key partnerships – the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, its longterm association with the National Geographic Society, and Mission Blue, led by American oceanographer Sylvia Earle. The Wilsdorf legacy While it is easy to be cynical about a maker of luxury watches claiming to do good, charity is not merely a box to be ticked at Rolex. The founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had no children and upon his death in 1960, gifted his ownership of the watch brand to an eponymous foundation that’s one of the largest charitable foundations in Europe. Though it operates discreetly, the foundation does so on an immense scale, especially in relation to its home country, which is wealthy but small. From saving the Geneva’s football club to bankrolling the...

To buy or not to buy - how to curate your watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 27, 2019

To buy or not to buy - how to curate your watch collection

Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I’d assume that’s because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you’re about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you’re doing so because you … ContinuedThe post To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute SJX Watches
Casio nally titanium it Jul 9, 2019

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute

Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...

Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref Jul 1, 2019

Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717

Editor’s note: Trust Breguet to take the comparatively uncomplicated act of adding a second time zone into something extra. Rather than your typical GMT hand scenario, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 demonstrates a very cool, very technical twist on the complication. Read on for Sandra’s review …  The remarkable Hora Mundi ref. 5717 … ContinuedThe post Dual time done right, the Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Omega are making us thirsty with this Casamigos Planet Ocean Time+Tide
Omega are making us thirsty May 22, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Omega are making us thirsty with this Casamigos Planet Ocean

Most of the time we’re OK living in Australia. We’ve got great beaches, a laidback culture and some colloquial slang that’s more colourful than a hatful of rainbow bezels.  But sometimes we feel we’re missing out. And today is one of those days. When we spotted this article on Uncrate about a US boutique-only Omega … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Omega are making us thirsty with this Casamigos Planet Ocean appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bringing one of the most badly abused Omega Speedmasters we’ve ever seen back from the dead Time+Tide
Omega Speedmasters we’ve ever seen May 19, 2019

Bringing one of the most badly abused Omega Speedmasters we’ve ever seen back from the dead

It takes a lot of physical abuse to make a watch as iconic as an Omega Speedmaster verge on unrecognisable. But the owner of this watch tried. When photos of a badly beaten 1969 Omega Speedmaster started doing the rounds on Instagram, it had our immediate attention. So many questions: What the hell are ‘welding … ContinuedThe post Bringing one of the most badly abused Omega Speedmasters we’ve ever seen back from the dead appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 milestones / gifting occasions that you should buy a watch for (that also make good excuses to buy for yourself) Time+Tide
Casio ns May 13, 2019

6 milestones / gifting occasions that you should buy a watch for (that also make good excuses to buy for yourself)

Personally, I don’t need an excuse to buy a watch for myself. But I have, many times, used certain milestones as justification for a purchase whenever they have come under scrutiny. So whether or not you genuinely want to buy a timepiece to commemorate a special time in your life, or whether you just want … ContinuedThe post 6 milestones / gifting occasions that you should buy a watch for (that also make good excuses to buy for yourself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Solid as a rock - the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389) Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 May 6, 2019

Solid as a rock - the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Editor’s note: This year, Panerai made the Submersible a line in its own right, and honestly, we’re wondering what took them so long. It’s a design that - as demonstrated admirably by the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic (PAM 1389) here - possesses equal parts brawn, bravura and beauty …  Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, … ContinuedThe post Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Breguet Classique 5177 will have you singing the blues Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 5177 will have Apr 9, 2019

INTRODUCING: The new Breguet Classique 5177 will have you singing the blues

If there was the platonic ideal of a dress watch, I’m willing to bet that it would look a lot like Breguet’s Classique: simple, elegant, restrained. But for all that, it’s a watch full of subtle nuance and fine details - details that separate it from the rest of the pack.  The white gold case, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Breguet Classique 5177 will have you singing the blues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Marine Chronograph ref. 5527 Time+Tide
Breguet Marine Chronograph ref 5527 Feb 18, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Breguet Marine Chronograph ref. 5527

If I’m being honest, this is one of the less “Breguet” watches Breguet has released in recent years. It’s an unconventional mix of traditional features, in a much more contemporary package. All the key design features are there: the fluted case, the hands and the elaborately guillochéd dial, but this watch is a world away … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Breguet Marine Chronograph ref. 5527 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pancor Watch P02 Review and My Kickstarter Buying Experience Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor North Flag Dec 27, 2018

Pancor Watch P02 Review and My Kickstarter Buying Experience

I found the Pancor Watches P02 and I fell in love with it. This watch called to me for a three reasons: (1) It had a hi-beat movement. All of the watches I had experienced up to this point were 21.6k beats per hour, and I yearned for a smoother sweep; (2) it was black PVD and I thought that was awesome; (3) And the power reserve reminded me of that elusive Tudor North Flag.

LIST: 3 rockers that could rock the Raymond Weil Tango Marshall Limited Edition Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Sep 26, 2018

LIST: 3 rockers that could rock the Raymond Weil Tango Marshall Limited Edition

It’s all about the music, man, it’s always been about the music. At least it is for Raymond Weil. And the Swiss-made brand’s Music Icon Series. Not only does it feature limited-edition tributes to artists such as Bob Marley, David Bowie and The Beatles, but it also pays homage to the instruments and equipment that … ContinuedThe post LIST: 3 rockers that could rock the Raymond Weil Tango Marshall Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BREAKING NEWS: Is the Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday II”  going to drop today? Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday II” Jul 9, 2018

BREAKING NEWS: Is the Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday II” going to drop today?

In January 2017, Omega announced, with zero fanfare, a limited edition Speedmaster, made in collaboration with Fratello Watches, called Speedy Tuesday, named after the popular hashtag. Four-and-a-half hours later, all 2012 watches were gone. Well, hold onto your hats and get ready to flex those credit cards, because it looks like it’s about to happen … ContinuedThe post BREAKING NEWS: Is the Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday II” going to drop today? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: High-end quartz -  Grand Seiko celebrates the 25th anniversary of the 9F with two limited editions (SBGT241 and SBGV238) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko celebrates Feb 28, 2018

HANDS-ON: High-end quartz -  Grand Seiko celebrates the 25th anniversary of the 9F with two limited editions (SBGT241 and SBGV238)

If you’re a regular reader, I’m willing to bet that your views around quartz timekeeping will be pretty negative. After all, this is a technology that was (almost) responsible for the downfall of mechanical watches. But, as you’re about to find out, not all quartz watches were created equal. Sure, there’s the cheap and cheerful … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: High-end quartz – Grand Seiko celebrates the 25th anniversary of the 9F with two limited editions (SBGT241 and SBGV238) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.