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Deployant
Watch enthusiasts and non-watch enthusiasts see Bulgari pretty differently. The latter sees it as the brand that sells fancy jewelry while the former sees it as the brand that won’t stop breaking watchmaking records every damn year. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo line has been around for less than 10 years and already it has brokenRead More
Hodinkee
The new Tonda PF Xiali Calendar shows how well masterfully complex watchmaking and elegantly wearable design can go hand in hand.
Time+Tide
Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion. When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The idea of a re-edition within the watch market is nothing new. Many brands have woken up to the huge demand for revivals, recreations, or remixes of their lauded vintage references. But when these designs date to the specialist era of watchmaking, where multiple brands turned to the same dial, case, and movement manufacturers, there … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Revival A3691 & A3690 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer, which was founded as Heuer Watchmaking by Edouard Heuer in 1860, built much of its modern reputation as an innovator in chronograph watches for automobile racing. Its most iconic models, the Heuer Carrera and Heuer Monaco, both debuted in the 1960s and remain inextricably linked with motorsports. By the end of the 1970s, however, the company was exploring a new realm of sport-oriented timepieces that would be at the forefront of its transition from the family-owned Heuer firm to the modern era that began in 1985 when it was acquired by Luxembourg-based high-tech manufacturer Techniques d’Avant-Garde (TAG). The watches from this pivotal period would form the foundation of today’s TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection, which continues to grow and evolve today. Aquaracer Ancestors: Ref. 844 and Beyond (1978-1998) In 1978, Heuer launched the now-legendary Ref. 844 (above left, next to the 2021 Revival edition), the forerunner of its 1000 and 2000 series of divers’ tool watches that paved the way for the Aquaracer collection. Ref. 844 - the brainchild of company scion Jack Heuer, who also created the Carrera, the Monaco, and numerous other enduring models - featured a 42mm steel case, water-resistant to 200 meters and containing mostly quartz and a few mechanical movements. The dial was distinguished by an inner 24-hour scale of red numerals and large geometric hour markers reminiscent of those on the Rolex Submariner, a model Jack Heuer has readily acknowle...
Time+Tide
“The Collectibles” program offers a curated collection of historic JLC models. The program is ongoing, starting off with an initial capsule collection of 12 timepieces. Each watch is vetted by JLC’s experts, and fully serviced and restored by their in-house restoration workshop. While there is much to enjoy about modern watchmaking, it is no secret there is a … ContinuedThe post JLC launches new program “The Collectibles” where clients can buy certified and restored vintage pieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A fascinating discovery from the Japanese brand Citizen awaits.The post The smallest watch you’ve never heard of appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IWC usually brings to mind the stern, sporty range of military-inspired pilot’s watches, and occasionally the suave dressiness of one of their Portugeisers. Often under-appreciated is the Portofino collection - a group of watches which pay homage to one of the most classic eras in watchmaking history. With elegance and detail-oriented excellence in spades, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Glashütte-trained watchmaker presents his first in-house complication A minimalist, modern take on a moonphase complication Heavily modified and extensively hand-decorated Unitas movement Felipe Pikullik launched his eponymous brand in 2017, upon completion of his studies in Germany’s cradle of watchmaking – Glashütte. In that short period, Mr Pikullik has already introduced four different collections, … ContinuedThe post The Independedit: Felipe Pikullik Mondphase 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
We are starting a brand new series to take a peek behind the curtain of the watch brand that has probably the most maximalist design language in the entire Swiss watch industry, Jacob & Co. Beyond the strikingly luxurious presentation of its watches, each product family is underpinned by highly technical competencies that have elevated […]
Time+Tide
High-end, independent watchmaking has become difficult to come by in recent times, as many have begun to realise that paying huge mark-ups on mass-produced watches isn’t that cool. The problem is, however, that even when you do discover a niche independent that produces something that you like, it’s increasingly common that they already have a … ContinuedThe post The Unusual Suspects – The Daniel Roth Masters Chronograph is a masterful piece by a legendary watchmaker for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches with a sparse, minimalist aesthetic have a faithful following in the modern era, and a number of watchmakers, both Swiss and German, offer timepieces born of those design principles, which are most directly descended from Germany’s hugely influential Bauhaus school of design in the early 20th Century. The Junghans Max Bill series, however, is one of the undisputed trailblazers of the Bauhaus style of watch design, tracing its origins all the way back to 1861 and boasting a time-tested design from one of the movement’s leading legends, Max Bill himself. Here we offer a brief history of the Junghans Max Bill watch collection, some insight into its namesake, and an overview of the modern collection, one of the few to contain mechanical, automatic, quartz, and radio-controlled solar movements as well as an array of sizes and materials. HOROLOGY IN THE BLACK FOREST Junghans Uhren GmbH was founded in 1861 in Schramberg, in Germany’s eastern Black Forest, by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler. Initially a producer of clock parts, the company began making its own complete clocks and pocket watches in 1866 and by 1903 had become the largest watch and clock manufacturer in the world, employing 3,000 people. In 1927, Junghans began making wristwatches as well as clocks and supplied both over the subsequent decades to clients in the German military as well as the commercial market. A watershed moment for the company arrived in the 1950s with the...
Hodinkee
The famous engine turner will discuss the history of American watchmaking.
SJX Watches
Franck Muller pushed the boundaries of the possible in high-end watchmaking in its earlier years, particularly with its whimsical complications like the Crazy Hours. Now, the brand has gone in the direction of edgy and provocative with its collaboration with Tokyo streetwear brand #FR2. Bearing the clothing label’s emblem of two naughty rabbits, the #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard is a limited edition available only in Southeast Asia and Australia. Initial thoughts When I first saw the #FR2NCK MULLER Vanguard, I was conflicted about the aesthetics. This type of pop-culture collaboration has been done before and often. Various watch brands have tied up with well-known streetwear labels. And Franck Muller itself recently launched a Vanguard customised by Bamford Watch Department to feature Popeye on the dial. But upon closer examination, the #FR2NCK MULLER feels like a more interesting collaboration because of the striking black-and-white livery – and the irreverent logo on the dial. The rabbit emblem is fairly discrete at a distance, making it something of a in-joke. Beyond the design, the case is notable for being a composite of carbon fibre and glass, which gives the material a banded pattern that is slightly glossy. The composite case perfectly complements the black-and-white palette of the watch. And inside the composite case is an in-house automatic movement, making it slightly more interesting than the Franck Muller watches powered by stock third-party movements. As i...
Deployant
Frank Muller collaborates with Japanese streetware label #FR2 to create a new Vanguard with the DNA of both houses in the design language.
Time+Tide
Swiss luxury powerhouse Hublot has long been known for their outsize watches for outsize personalities. The man responsible for the brand’s rise to fame, Jean-Claude Biver, always had a knack for making a big splash, none bigger than Hublot’s Big Bang line. Since its introduction in 2005, the Big Bang has been produced in a … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire sits at the bleeding edge of technology and opulence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking. The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...
Deployant
Comprehensive hands-on review of the new Peren Nera Rogue BW dive watch. An affordable, dive watch with Swiss mechanical movement for daily wear.
Hodinkee
Jean-Pierre Hagmann and Rexhep Rexhepi are active preservationists for one of the most traditional – and overlooked – crafts in watchmaking.
Time+Tide
Talk about a twist. Here’s a move I’m willing to bet very few people saw coming: a stainless-steel luxury sports watch from revered Danish/Swiss watchmaker Urban Jürgensen. This couldn’t have been more of an out-of-left-field development, considering that the brand, whose origins stretch all the way back to 1773, has long been known for its … ContinuedThe post The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If you follow the world of independent watchmaking, by now you’ve almost certainly heard of watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi and his Akrivia watches. Since arriving on the scene in 2012 with its first tourbillon-based watch, Akrivia has continued to delight. But is this independent bound for glory? GaryG predicts the future.
Teddy Baldassarre
Founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova in 1875, originally with both its corporate headquarters and its manufacturing based in New York City, Bulova Watch Company is one of the most important historical watch brands in the United States. Many an American watch enthusiast has a story about the Bulova watch they inherited from a parent or grandparent, or about how their first watch was a Bulova before building up the financial wherewithal to delve into pricier Swiss luxury brands. Many of these enthusiasts may well be unaware of the many milestones that Bulova has contributed throughout its history - not just to American watchmaking to watchmaking in general - and how those milestones live on today in some of the brand’s most notable timepieces. Here we spotlight 10 important Bulova watches available now and the stories behind them; most are available in our online shop, many below MSRP. A Watch That Helped Win Wars: Bulova Hack Watch During World War II, Bulova took its patriotic duties as one of the few American-based watch companies quite seriously: many of its male employees joined the armed forces while female employees took over much of the watchmaking work at the factory. Bulova also devoted 25 percent of its advertising to the promotion of war bonds and stamps, a service for which it was awarded a distinguished service certificate by the U.S. government. Most notably, in the early 1940s, the company contracted with the United States government to produce i...
SJX Watches
Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....
Hodinkee
A wide-ranging conversation with the titan atop the most storied brand in watchmaking.
Quill & Pad
Not long after Walter Lange reestablished his forefathers’ company A. Lange & Söhne, once Germany’s most famous watch manufacture, he recognized that training the next generation of watchmakers would be crucial for both the long-term prosperity of his company and the local watchmaking industry and population. Sabine Zwettler takes a look at how that training has evolved.
Revolution
In a recent visit to Trilobe’s headquarters in Paris, Wei sat down with Founder and CEO, Gautier Massonneau to talk about his extraordinary vision for creating his own watch brand and how Grail Watch 3 came to be. In a few short years since 2018, Trilobe has made an indelible mark on watchmaking by re-envisioning […]
Time+Tide
We’ve paid a lot of attention to the re-emerging Delma recently, a Swiss brand with nearly a century of unbroken history that not enough people knew about. It may also surprise you to learn that around 20 years ago, Delma integrated another brand into their company with a similar story - and that brand is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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