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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Reprise While Mar 18, 2023

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise

While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 17, 2023

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall

Jay-Z and his watches.  Historically, he's been an AP man.  He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man.  Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT"  and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Mar 17, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow

Last month, Zach Kazan brought us 5 Instagrams accounts with endlessly awesome watch content to scroll through. If you ask us, the key to a good Instagram feed is diversity, so we’re here with 5 more recommendations that we think will add some real value to your well earned scrolling time. We’ve got a little of everything here, including a few bonus picks outside of the realm of watches to keep your sanity in check.  Without further ado, here are 5 (and a bit more) selections from our Managing Editor, Blake Buettner. As always, if you have any of your own recommendations for us, feel free to leave them in the comments below! Header image credit: @talkingabouttime @talkingabouttime   View this profile on Instagram   Stephen (@talkingabouttime) • Instagram photos and videos Stephen, aka talkingabouttime is a photographer with some serious skills in catching the details of watches from some of our favorite brands. Stephen also has a knack for sharing watches from new brands you may not yet be familiar with, and thanks to the beautiful photography, make them quite enticing along the way. I love the sheer diversity of watches that appear on this feed, and have stumbled across more than a few hidden gems while scrolling. @10thwatch   View this profile on Instagram   X (@10thwatch) • Instagram photos and videos This account belongs to a collector perpetually looking for the perfect 10 watch collection, with the 10th being the best, obviously. This collector has eclec...

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Debuts Mar 16, 2023

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement

Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander, the brand’s value oriented, all purpose sports watch that debuted in April 2021, is getting an upgrade this week, and for a good cause. With all of the press concerning Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto at the end of last year, it would be easy to forget that they have another, perhaps even more significant, horological achievement in the Calibre SH21 movement. This five day, chronometer certified movement is the brand’s flagship, and the first industrialized mechanical caliber from a British watch brand in fifty years. It’s genuinely historic, so when they put it in a watch for the first time, it’s a special occasion by default. These new Sealanders live up to the occasion not just in terms of design and aesthetics, but by being the face of a worthy charitable endeavor as well.  The C63 SH21 Blue Marine is the latest watch that Christopher Ward has made in partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, a marine conservation organization that the brand has worked with several times. For this release, 5% of the sale price of Blue Marine watch will go back to the organization to benefit their efforts around cleaning the ocean of rising levels of plastics. Similarly, the C63 SH21 Snow Leopard is being launched with the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, another longtime Christopher Ward charitable partner. The DSWF is a wildlife charity that funds conservation projects throughout Africa and Asia, and for this release 5% of the sale of ...

Five Modern Retro-Styled Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, Blancpain, And Seiko – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Panerai Breitling Blancpain Mar 16, 2023

Five Modern Retro-Styled Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, Blancpain, And Seiko – Reprise

The "good ol’ days” aren’t over yet – at least in the world of mechanical watches, where the appreciation of traditions and the creation of lasting values are as essential as the balance wheel and the escapement. Here, Sabine Zwettler takes a look at five of her favorite modern retro-styled watches from Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, and Seiko.

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Teams Up Mar 15, 2023

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement

For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions.  The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter.  The Chronograph Médical lim...

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

Up Close: Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 SJX Watches
Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Mar 14, 2023

Up Close: Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38

For over a decade now, Montblanc has been attempting to become a serious watchmaker, an endeavour that started after its acquisition of Minerva. Despite having found only modest success there, the pen maker-turned-luxury-goods-house has produced a good number of proper haute horlogerie watches – mostly chronographs and some with surprisingly accessible prices – many of which have gone under appreciated due to the brand name. A perfect example of the Minerva mechanical excellence and sharp pricing is Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 that was introduced in 2019. The Heritage Small Second is all about the movement, specifically a new-old-stock Minerva calibre from the early 2000s finished to an impressive, artisanal standard. Despite the exceptional movement, the watch never really gained much recognition (much like Montblanc’s other Minerva offerings), but it is certainly worth a revisit. Initial thoughts With its retro, two-tone dial in faddish “salmon”, the Heritage Small Second looks like one of the many vintage-inspired watches that has been (re)produced to excess by many brands in various price segments. But this stands out for the impressive degree of detail in the movement, which is finished to a degree comparable to that of artisanal independent watchmakers. The hand-wound MB M62.00 inside is the star. According to Montblanc, it’s an “untouched” calibre from the attic made during a period when Minerva’s then-owners were dedicated to eleva...

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 13, 2023

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux

Watches with compasses are a rare breed among tool watches, mainly because - unlike chronographs, dual time zone functions, and calendars - their usefulness in everyday circumstances is rather limited. Generally, in the era of GPS and Google Maps, one rarely has a pressing need to identify True North on a hand-held (or wrist-worn) device. However, like other “niche” watch functions that serve mainly as aesthetic curiosities in quiet business or domestic environments, compasses - which can be as low-tech as a movable bezel with orientation markers or as high-tech as a digital readout that takes control of the watch’s display at the push of a button - have a special appeal to active, outdoorsy enthusiasts. Avid hikers, mountain climbers, spelunkers, and others devoted to adventure in environments where one is often bereft of modern conveniences like reliable wifi, tend to gravitate toward a more rugged, utilitarian style of watch, often with built-in tools that go beyond timekeeping. This is why you’ll often find compass-equipped watches with other useful indicators for factors like temperature, atmospheric pressure, and altitude. The relative rarity of compass watches could also be traced, at least in part, to a handful of truisms. One is that as an additional indicator on a watch, it’s basically superfluous: any analog watch with an hour hand, hour markers, and reliable accuracy can be used for orientation, at least while the sun is out. Simply lay the wa...

Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2023

Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter

If I had a time machine to visit any point in history, my adventurous spirit would punch in the year 1969. This was already a period rich with daring exploration, technological innovation, and historical achievement that inevitably led to the culmination of the Space Race with NASA putting a man on the moon. But that wasn’t the only “high stakes” race going on at the time. Watch brands all over the world were jockeying for position to see who could make the most robust tool watch for explorers foraying into the most extreme conditions including the unknown depths of the ocean, mountainous death zones, and of course, outer space. Ollech & Wajs was one of the brands that were most certainly in the mix with their own multi-functional triple register chronograph aptly dubbed the Astrochron. The Astrochron’s distinctive multi-scale display made it a popular choice among engineers and scientists in NASA’s research and development lab including Chief Rocket Scientist, Werner Von Braun, or otherwise known as the “father of space travel.” Equipped with a rotating 12 hour bezel, tachymeter scale on the dial, chronograph timer, and a slew of other attractive tool watch features, the Astrochron found its way onto the wrists of sportsmen, pilots, and ship officers alike. Recently, Ollech & Wajs has decided to revisit the design and one glance will confirm that this isn’t your original 1967 Astrochron. With the new refresh, Ollech & Wajs’ already capable multi-function...

Kurono Tokyo Goes Small with Four New Limited Edition Watches Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Goes Small Mar 13, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Goes Small with Four New Limited Edition Watches

This is one for the “better late than never” file. Last week, Kurono Tokyo launched their latest collection of watches, a series of four sector dials that quickly sold out after being made available on Friday morning. These watches, sized at just 34mm, are part of the “Special Projects” series that Kurono has undertaken, which seem to be personal labors of love from watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. On the webpage where these watches were announced, he writes about his own preference for 34mm watches, and not being sure of their mass appeal. When Kurono last experimented with a 34mm case size, the watches quickly sold out at a pop-up event, and that inspired Asaoka to make another run, in a new batch of colors. The near immediate sell out of this new collection would indicate to most observers that he’s onto something.  I’m a big fan of Kurono and enjoy that they produce watches in a more traditional size. It just seems to suit Asaoka’s design sensibilities – it’s tough to imagine the Toki, for example, being nearly as appealing in a 40mm case. That said, 34mm is a little small for me, but I have a big wrist, and the 37mm cases that Kurono favors are at the low end of my sweet spot. That means that a lot of people with “average” sized wrists will probably find 34mm to be a nice fit if they’re going for a more classic and subtle look. Kurono cases are always designed in such a way as to maximize comfort and wearability, which I think can largely neutralize ...

A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More! Worn & Wound
Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + Mar 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More!

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches starts off on a sad note with a quick memorial to Gerd Rüdiger Lang, who passed away at 80 just last week. A pioneer in the independent space, his contributions to the world of watchmaking were vast. Our condolences to his family and friends. From there, we move to new releases. This week we have a colorful Mido with a flyer GMT and world time bezel that will surely be popular. Then we move on to the Mission to Moonshine – look it’s news, so we had to cover it, right? Lastly, Seiko finally adds mechanical GMTs to their Prospex diver line, and we’re happy about it. This week’s episode was brought to you by Quick Release. Quick Release is a place where Worn & Wound’s partners showcase a wider variety of watches, product drops, limited deals and promotions, event announcements, and more. Check back daily, follow Quick Release on Instagram, and subscribe to our mailing list so you don’t miss a thing. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Maurice Lacroix Updates their Pontos Chronograph with a Pair of New References Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Updates their Pontos Chronograph Mar 10, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Updates their Pontos Chronograph with a Pair of New References

Just ahead of Watches & Wonders, Maurice Lacroix has unveiled a pair of new chronographs in their Pontos line. While most enthusiasts are probably looking at Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon line of integrated bracelet sports watches, collections like the Pontos have their own charm and help paint a fuller picture of the brand, which is always straddling a line between sporty and refined, and doing it at a price point that welcomes a wide range of collectors.  The new Pontos chronographs seen here feature dials in black and slate gray, the former with white accents, and the latter with hints of rose gold. The Pontos has a familIr three register layout, but the sub registers at 12:00 and 6:00 (minute and hour totalizers, respectively) are larger than the running seconds subdial at 9:00. It’s a subtle shift from the norm but gives the dial a little bit of additional visual interest and funk. It’s like a “Big Eye,” but with two eyes. I’m sure the community can come up with an appropriate nickname.  The most significant changes in these new versions of the Pontos concern the hour markers and handset. Time is now read via Arabic numerals at the dial’s perimeter, with a minute track located in the rehaut. Maurice Lacroix has also refined the hands with a modest bit of skeletonization at their base.  Both the black and gray have a sunburst effect applied to their surfaces, and in these Maurice Lacroix supplied photos, it looks particularly striking in gray. Black dials, o...

eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases Worn & Wound
Accutron Calendar Need some bling Mar 9, 2023

eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Pierce Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous early vintage Piece jumbo chronograph. The fancy stainless steel case measures a healthy 37mm wide, and features brilliant curved lugs with stylin’ chamfers. The case does show some light wear, but overall looks pretty sharp. The dial looks original and shows a bit of patina as it should. The up/down subdial configuration with the upper dial being larger than the lower really stands out. The hands are diamond shaped and lume filled. I’m guessing the hands have been relumed, but they look good to me. Seller states the Pierce manual wind chronograph movement has just been serviced and works perfectly. Really sharp early chrono that has lots of character. View auction here. Solid Gold Bulova Accutron Calendar Need some bling in your life? Check out this vintage 1967 killer asymmetrical solid 14k yellow gold Accutron 218. If you don’t already know, the Accutron 218 is their second generation tuning fork movement and is an absolute classic. These are great movements that usually keep great time and the batteries are readily available. This model has a vertically asymmetrical shield shaped case with skinny lugs on top and fat...

Full Send Personified: A Day of Extreme Freeride Skiing, Extreme Terrain and ‘Extreme’ Watches with Alpina Worn & Wound
Alpina Three two one … Mar 9, 2023

Full Send Personified: A Day of Extreme Freeride Skiing, Extreme Terrain and ‘Extreme’ Watches with Alpina

“Three, two, one … GO!” Leif Mumma stabs the hard-packed snow with his ski poles and launches himself out of the start gate. He immediately takes a different, more central line down the steep Ozone face. By the looks of his sheer speed and direct approach, he’s charging hard, taking the mountain head-on. Judging his quick decision making and go-big-or-go-home style, you wouldn’t think that this is Mumma’s first rodeo, but it is. He’s just a rookie on the Freeride World Tour. With a handful of speed, Mumma dramatically cuts in and out, just holding onto his ski’s edges down what seems to be one of thinner areas on the mountain face. He makes one technical jump off a rock face, lands, then cuts right. Then another. As Mumma dances around several spruce trees, the oohs and aahs arise from the spectators along the opposite ridge. At that moment, we’re all witnessing poetry in motion. All Downhill From Here Suddenly, an audible crack breaks the excitement. The mountain face starts to erupt on Mumma’s left as he completes a 20 foot jump. Whatever snow that was settled along the lower center portion of the face has now released, rushing down like a raging waterfall. Mumma is just out of the avalanche’s grip as he attempts his last trick. Out of nowhere Mumma’s ski gets caught by a sharkie (an exposed rock in a sea of snow that resembles a shark’s dorsal fin). He’s projected off of the face, his arms and poles flapping like a wingless bird, and his body...