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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus References Another Friday Oct 18, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a great reminder of what makes Gérald Genta’s creation stand out. The watch was first introduced in 1976 and has become one of the industry’s leading silhouettes over time. But we all know that the brand discontinued the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References to read the full article.

Laco Extends Its Scorpion Line Of Sports Watches With Black DLC Models Fratello
Laco Extends Oct 18, 2024

Laco Extends Its Scorpion Line Of Sports Watches With Black DLC Models

We mostly know Laco for its extensive collection of vintage-inspired pilot’s watches. However, the brand also offers more modern silhouettes in its Squad and Sport Watches collections. The latter is a series of versatile sports watches with the looks of a modern diver. Besides the standard model series, Laco also allows you to customize one […] Visit Laco Extends Its Scorpion Line Of Sports Watches With Black DLC Models to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Cubitus Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Oct 17, 2024

Patek Philippe Cubitus

The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 5821 Oct 17, 2024

Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P

Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab SJX Watches
Massena Lab Continuing Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

First Look – Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium Monochrome
Hamilton teams up Oct 17, 2024

First Look – Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium

Hamilton is well known for its American military-inspired Khaki Field watches, which are among the best values in the business. Titanium variants are nothing new to the expansive series, but a collaboration with New York design house Engineered Garments brings a small(ish), all-titanium automatic that’s stripped to the essentials. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel or […]

Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches Fratello
Oct 17, 2024

Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Watches are many different things - functional objects, fashion accessories, charming anachronistic timekeeping companions… The list goes on. But one thing they aren’t is funny. In the world of watches, the only thing more serious than the timepieces themselves is their prices. But does that mean there’s no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches to read the full article.

Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Garrick Oct 16, 2024

Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology

Anyone else have a watch that you look forward to seeing on the wrist of someone else? I think if you’ve been part of this community long enough, it’s almost a certainty. Invariably a friend or colleague will own something that you genuinely look forward to seeing – that watch you hope they will decide to bring to the regular meetup that always impresses. A watch that easily slides into that somewhat niche category for me is the Fears Garrick, a limited edition collaborative effort between the two British brands that first appeared in 2022. Asher Rapkin, a co-founder of Collective, is one of the lucky owners of this watch, and whenever I run into him, be it in Switzerland for a trade show or one of our Windup Watch Fairs, I always hope he’ll have picked this watch out of the box today. It’s just such a cool concept, and a watch that’s genuinely pretty rare, so an opportunity to see it in person is kind of a special thing.  Well, the number of these watches out in the wild is about to increase just a little bit with today’s announcement of the Fears Garrick Salmon for Collective limited edition. Only five of these will be made, and as the name of the watch would suggest, this run is distinguished by a beautiful salmon dial, replacing the crisp white of the prior version. Other than that, it’s very much the same watch, which is a great thing in my opinion, as it fuses together the absolute best of two of the most interesting British watch brands.  Those att...

Industrial Design: Loosely Explained Worn & Wound
Oct 15, 2024

Industrial Design: Loosely Explained

It’s a hot, muggy Saturday afternoon, and as a parent you find yourself at a local splash pad for a 3-year-old’s birthday party with 37 other people. Most of them are adults you don’t know, or you do know but have definitely forgotten their names. After your kid finally sheds the shy cling to your leg and runs off to the water features with their buddies, you begrudgingly gravitate toward a few unidentified parents talking. Upon entering the circle, you present your name and state whose parent you are before an awkward silence falls, and you hear those words: “So, what do you do for work?” Because at this point it’s either that or the weather, and the circle has already covered the later topic one too many times. Work-it’s that inevitable question we’re all asked during those awkward, seemingly weekly toddler birthday parties. “I’m an Industrial Designer” isn’t the most glamorous or self-explanatory response. That’s ok though, because after a few back and forth questions and answers in the circle many start to realize how much around them is designed, considered, and produced to make our lives a bit better. But like all coins, there are always two sides to the story. Making more things is not necessarily the answer, but I believe making things that speak to us, move us, and change our lives even in the slightest is what makes good industrial design great. At its core, Industrial Design is the process of creating physical products for mass manufa...

IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite SJX Watches
IWC Reveals Details Oct 15, 2024

IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite

Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...

Yema and Alain Silberstein Collaborate on a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 14, 2024

Yema and Alain Silberstein Collaborate on a New Limited Edition

Founded in 1948, Yema is an independent French watch manufacturer in Morteau, France, which as Yema reminds us, is “the birthplace of French watchmaking.” The third-generation Bôle family operates it alongside a team of watchmakers with over 40 years of experience. Over the years, they have gained a reputation for producing robust and dependable tool watches suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Yema has sought a new, more enthusiast focused clientele in recent years, particularly with their popular dive watches and the new Wristmaster line of integrated bracelet sports watches. To enhance this revival, they partnered with Alain Silberstein to create a special limited edition piece. Silberstein is an artistic watch designer with a background in interior architecture who grew to prominence with his eponymous brand in the 80s and 90s. His original designs were genre-defying and have now become his signature look. His style can be polarizing, frequently incorporating bright primary colors and geometric shapes in unexpected ways. The word “playful” gets thrown around a lot in the watch world, but it truly defines the Silberstein design language – they just have a way of making you smile. And that’s exactly what this new collaboration with Yema is designed to do. It is a 40mm dual crown dive watch in Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with micro-blasted finish. The Yema x Alain Silberstein Marine features a crown at 4 o’clock for time setting and win...

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Oct 14, 2024

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial

In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...

Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase Fratello
Oris Watch Oct 13, 2024

Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase

The allure of searching vintage and antique shops is strong for me. There is something about the appreciation for things from the past that resonates. Recently, on a trip to one such shop, I discovered a vintage Oris watch in an old suitcase. I saw it glistening inside the morass of trinkets and discarded objects […] Visit Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen 1 Oct 13, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2

It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. Yes, it’s time for a cup of coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week’s battle is all about the First Omega in Space. The big question is: which one do you like better? Jorg will make a case for the first-generation Speedmaster […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 to read the full article.