Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Code 11.59 Selfwinding And Selfwinding Chronographs – Now In Steel
Audemars Piguet's code 11.59 is evolving with new releases of the three handed and chronograph models
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Spotted: Jay Z Wearing An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar In Picasso Baby
Last month, Jay Z blurred the lines between music video and fine art by performing the single "Picasso Baby" from his new album Magna Carta Holy Grail for 6 hours inside New York City's Pace Gallery. A small group of people joined him for the intimate performance – which was filmed by director Mark Romanek – including luminaries from the creative world such as Marina Abromović, Judd Apatow, Alan Cumming, Taraji P. Henson, Adam Driver, and Rosie Perez. Also present for the performance, a gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an openworked dial on the wrist of Jay himself.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Five Dive Watches Under $5,000
Dive into a curated selection of pieces from the most popular watch style at an approachable price point.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Rolex Price Hikes, More MoonSwatch, And How To Properly Value A Watch
Introducing our all-new digest of the week's most important news, reviews, and industry chatter.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko Is Back In Black With Three Classic Releases
Three of the brand's most tried-and-true references get a blacked-out treatment.
Hodinkee
Business News: Swiss Watch Exports Drop In September
Shipments fall for the first time in 16 months.
Deployant
New: Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold
Nomos extends their classical dress watch lineup - the Tangente with a new Neomatic in Blue Gold. Available in two sizes of 35mm and 39mm.
SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch
Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Portofino Collection Gets a New Complete Calendar to Complement Last Year’s Perpetual
Toward the tail end of 2022, IWC quietly introduced a new Portofino perpetual calendar (in gold and stainless steel) and it immediately caught our attention. I mean, it’s kind of an objectively beautiful watch, with an elegantly executed complication that we’re all quite fond of, and the fact IWC is making them in steel is really just icing on the perpetual calendar cake. Still, at $24,000, the steel version isn’t exactly anyone’s definition of affordable, even if we’re using imaginary money. So we were even more surprised to learn that IWC has once again sprung a very attractive calendar watch on us in a non-precious metal, still in the Portofino collection but with a different calendar complication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar shares an aesthetic with its perpetual big brother, but is less than half the price. It requires more adjustment from the user, but it’s still a classic calendar with a ton of charm. First things first, the Portofino seems to be hitting a newfound stride with these calendar watches. This has always been a solid IWC collection, if a little under the radar compared to the brand’s sportier offerings. But the Portofino speaks to the broad range of styles that IWC excels in. These are traditional dress watches, which are now increasingly outfitted with traditional complications based around IWC’s solid and reliable watchmaking. In terms of aesthetics, you’d be hard pressed to identify a distinguishing feature in these watches...
Worn & Wound
Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection
The formula for Circula’s AquaSport dive watch is fairly simple. It’s a proper 40mm diver that keeps dial furniture to a minimum and blends in a mix of color to keep their watches looking lively, and less mundane like your traditional black dial dive watch. It’s just enough to keep the AquaSport fun and refreshing, without straying too far away from Circula’s main mission – to produce high-quality, German made (Pforzheim to be exact) watches that harken back to past designs. Circula also takes pride in listening to their customers and the entire watch community as a whole, taking suggestions and then applying them accordingly to future projects. Whether there was an increasing demand for a GMT model from the community, or it was Circula’s intention to turn their AquaSport diver into an exceptional travel companion, we’ve got a brand new AquaSport GMT in two different flavors. The Circula AquaSport comes in two different dial variations: Anthracite and Blue. The AquaSport GMT Blue stays in line with what we’ve seen within the AquaSport collection. The dial has a cyan tone amplified by a sunburst effect paired with orange accented hour markers, seconds hand, and trim around the crown. A sky blue AM bezel display offsets the color matched PM display. The AquaSport GMT Anthracite keeps things a bit more reserved. The bezel remains a uniform matte gray color. Like the sunburst effect on the anthracite gray dial, the faded yellow and light blue accents on the dia...
Worn & Wound
Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition
Airain, the heritage watch brand that made a triumphant return in 2020 with their Type 20 reissue, is back with a new spin on the popular (and historic) chronograph that gives it a sleek and under the radar look. Airain, you might remember, is one of the original French manufacturers of the Type 20 chronograph, the military aviator’s watch issued to French pilots in the 1950s and 60s. Several watchmakers were contracted by the French Ministry of Defense to produce the watches to spec, including Mathey Tissot, Dodane, and, most famously, Breguet. Vintage examples of the Type 20 are highly collectible, and Breguet of course still produces a variety of excellent chronographs under the moniker. Brands like Hemel and Massena LAB have also gotten in on the Type 20 action recently, which might harken a boom in interest in these very specific chronographs. The specificity, I think, is part of the charm. Like other watches built for military purposes, the Type 20 was made to a certain standard, with certain key features, regardless of the manufacturer that actually produced it. In the case of the Type 20, those requirements included a black dial with registers at 3:00 and 6:00, giving the wearer the ability to time events up to 30 minutes in duration, along with a 38mm case diameter, a rotating 12 hour bezel, lumed hands and Arabic numerals, and accuracy to within 8 seconds per day. The other key feature was that the chronograph needed to have flyback functionality, a requireme...
Quill & Pad
Piper Heidsieck Hors-Serie 1982: A Sensational Champagne From A Sensational Vintage
The Piper Heidsieck Hors-Serie 1982 champagne is a superb champagne. There is no rush to drink it. The wine should continue to age well over the next decade, but that said, there is no reason not to enjoy it now. For Ken Gargett it rates, 96/100.
Revolution
In Conversation with Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director for TAG Heuer
Last year TAG Heuer launched two limited edition Carreras in celebration of the 50th Anniversary of the game-changing, genre-defining 911 Carrera RS 2.7 sports car from automaker Porsche. The RS 2.7 was the first ever Porsche to bear the “Carrera” nameplate which of course is a name that is also shared by TAG Heuer’s famous […]
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Selection of Everyday Watches For Your Everyday Needs
Not every watch fits into the perfect sub-category, some are simply meant to be a daily driver.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 38: They’re Back! 36MM Seiko 5s and More
On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we’re back on video, and back in the studio! It was a pretty solid week of releases ranging from a near six-figure perpetual calendar by Moser to the return of small-sized Seiko 5s. In the middle, we have a cool, updated version of an iconic Longines military watch, and a value-packed GMT from Germany’s Circula watches. Check out the episode below and on youtube, or listen to the podcast version where ever you find podcasts. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 38: They’re Back! 36MM Seiko 5s and More appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Pristine 1991 Jaguar XJR-15, NOCS Provision’s Voyager, & Air Force One Going Supersonic?
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Sotheby’s Get Your Group C Racing On With This Barely-Driven Jaguar XJR-15 Via Sotheby’s Lately we’ve got Group C racing on the mind and that’s no thanks to Autodromo’s recent release. If you haven’t checked out their latest offering, you should stop reading and see it here. This week, another Group C racing related thing crossed our radar, but it wasn’t a watch. Currently on the Sotheby’s auction block is a 1991 Jaguar XJR-15 in pristine condition. This devilishly cool looking piece of machinery is only 1 of 27 ever made and is the production version of the Group C Sports-Prototype Jaguar XJR-9. We’ll save the specs listed in the auction description, as we’d rather spend time just drooling over the curves and lines of this XJR-15. The odometer on this thing currently reads 153 miles. One hundred fifty three. It’s barely lived a life. A word of advice to whoever wins the auction, which by the way is estimated to fetch upwards of $1.5 mil, drive this thing! And we’ll all be ready to snap a photo when you zip by. See Further & Look Cool Doing...
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Jewels: What Do They Do and Why Do They Matter?
Those who are very new to appreciating watches may be surprised, and a bit confused, upon reading about a watch that boasts “21 jewels” and afterward looking it over and finding no diamonds or emeralds or any other precious stones on its dial or case. Many watches do, in fact, offer such adornments, but those are not what’s being referred to on a watch’s spec sheet in the “jewels” column; to clarify, “jewels” in horological parlance are not shorthand for “jewelry.” A watch’s jewels are, in fact, not even really intended to be seen and admired. Like the screws and gears and tiny wheels inside a watch’s movement, they are there to do a job, to play a vital and functional role in the smooth operation of a watch’s timekeeping. So what are jewels in a watch movement, anyway, and what are they for? And do watchmakers really use valuable, precious gems as workhorse components inside these micromechanical engines? On the latter question, well, yes and no. As to the former question, read on. The movement in a mechanical watch is a machine with lots of moving metal parts that tend to rub and grind against one another, creating friction that can wear down these components, adversely affecting the performance of the watch and ultimately shortening its functional life. The challenge in the early days of watchmaking was finding a substance harder than these metal parts to place at the vital pivot points to reduce metal-on-metal wear and tear. The answer pr...
Deployant
New: Sinn T50 lineup
Sinn presents a new diver watch lineup - the T50 with 3 new references, with 2 featuring a new bronze and the third in titanium.
SJX Watches
Editorial: LVMH Revives Daniel Roth
The news concerning a revival of Daniel Roth was been circulating in Geneva and Paris for over a year but it is now official. LVMH just announced Daniel Roth “will be run as an independent brand, with guidance and incubation from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton, as of February 2023.” Once an independent brand run by its namesake founder, Daniel Roth had its heyday in the mid-1990s when classical complications with Breguet styling were the “in” thing with collectors. Due to Mr Roth’s personal and financial struggles, the brand then changed hands several times before ending up with Bulgari over a decade ago. Daniel Roth had been on ice for several years after a few half-hearted attempts by the Italian jeweller to do something with the brand. No doubt spurred by the renewed interest in independent watchmaking, LVMH has spun off Daniel Roth and attached it to La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT), the complications and movement factory owned by Louis Vuitton (and word has it that the same will soon be done with Gerald Genta, once the sister brand of Daniel Roth). One of the less successful Bulgari-Daniel Roth offerings, a “Chronosprint” made for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s rugby team Revived with resources The return of the brand is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, the Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton’s watch division. While Mr Arnault is best known as being the youngest son of LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault, the younger Arnault is a c...
Worn & Wound
Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch
Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too. The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...
SJX Watches
Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique
Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands. The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd. Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…” Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for. The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experi...
Deployant
New: Rado Captain Cook, now in full ceramic
Rado releases a new Captain Cook, in ceramic, as an extension to the 4 models released in the High-Tech Ceramic Edition in 2021.
Deployant
New: Longines Pilot Majetek
Longines returns to its roots to recreate a pilot's watch for the wider audience. Presenting the new Pilot Majetek, created after 190 years of history.
Deployant
New: Arnold & Son Globetrotter Platinum
Arnold & Son adds a platinum case edition to their Globetrotter collection. Details from the Press Release and commentary in italics.
Quill & Pad
Gosset Celebris 2008 Champagne: History And Tasting Notes
The style of Gosset champagnes tends to complex, richly flavored wines. Powerful Pinot components and the steel and elegance of fine Chardonnay. Ken Garett shares his thoughts on the 2088 vintage.
Deployant
New: Laco Polar – two limited edition references
Laco adds to their affordable pilot style watch collection two new models - the Ausburg Polar 42 and the Aachen Polar 42, both limited to 250 pieces each.
SJX Watches
Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar
Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals. While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC. The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...
Quill & Pad
Vulcain x Seconde/Seconde/ x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute”: Live Long And Prosper!
Long name aside, the Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” is an awesomely vintage reissue of a Vulcain Cricket with a quirky twist.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 37: Analog Tech and Retro Digital (Audio Edition)
This week’s episode of A Week in Watches is slightly different – it’s audio only. To make up for the lack of visuals, however, we have two hosts! Yes, both Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner jump on this time to discuss some new and exciting releases from Blancpain, Grand Seiko, and Autodromo. Check it out below, or tune in wherever you go to listen to your podcasts. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 37: Analog Tech and Retro Digital (Audio Edition) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
New: Bulova Accutron Astronaut
One of the most notable aspects of the Bulova Astronaut Re-Edition is its design. The watch features a 41mm stainless steel case with a black dial and luminous hands and markers, similar to the original watch. It also features a distinctive Day/Night bezel which helps the wearer track two time zones simultaneously. The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, which ironically makes it no longer the 'most accurate watch in the world'; a phrase used to describe the original 1968 model with the 214HN sub-caliber.